Your bullsnake looks really good. I like how his brown is about the same as a baby Burmese. Cool snake!
As for breeding- it really couldn't be simpler. No special tricks are needed and no special equipment. Bullsnakes aren't known for being especially prone to egg-binding and aren't that finicky about nest boxes. A few weeks of cooling and fasting in the winter, lots of food in the spring (for the females especially), and a stable 80F+- for the eggs, and a healthy pair of breeders is about all you need.
After about a 6 week cooling in the winter at 55 degrees, plus or minus a couple, warm the snakes up over a few days back to normal. Feed them more often than normal and after the first shed, put the male and female together. They'll breed within minutes to days. Pull them apart for feeding- sometimes the males are preoccupied and won't eat- and then put them back together. I usually leave them together for a couple of weeks, especially if I haven't seen them breed myself. If I'm going to use that male for a different female, I usually pay close attention and pull him after I've seen some action a couple of times.
After ultimate separation, feed the female as often as she'll eat, medium sized food items. Also get a nest box ready and put it in after a couple of weeks. Use whatever is available for a nest material. I've used sphagnum, perlite, peat moss, paper towels, vermiculite, probably other stuff too over the years. I currently like the sphagnum moss. Make it wet enough where it is damp to the touch, but not sopping wet. I have mine where if you squeeze it really hard, a few drops of water may drip out. The size of the box isn't really super critical, but it has to be big enough to comfortably allow the snake to be loosely coiled in it, with a little room to spare.
She'll stop eating once the eggs really start to develop in her body(usually). After the eggs are laid I usually leave the female in the nest for a day or two to let her rest and to make sure that all of the eggs are out. After that, take out the box and put an X on the top of each egg with a soft pencil if you plan to move them to an incubator. They have to stay X-up to properly develop after embryo orientation. If you have a place in the house that stays around 80F, you can put the eggs there without the need for an incubator. Keep the medium moist like before and remove eggs that severely mold. If in doubt about an egg, leave it in. Usually all doubt will be removed after a few more days, but I've had some pretty crappy looking eggs that have hatched just fine.
Then the hard part--------- the wait. If all goes well in a couple of months the eggs will hatch. In the mean time, you will have a very hungry female to keep you busy.
This is what works for me. It is far from a rigid formula, however, and there are lots of variations, all of which can work just fine. After listening, reading and doing it yourself, you'll find a formula that works. Maybe this can help you start. Good luck!
