Reptile & Amphibian Forums

He last ate Jan 3rd (almost 2 months ago). He's a full grown kingsnake, about 2-3 years old, nearly identical in appearance to a Jalisco Milksnake. Always a regular eater before... usually 2 hoppers.

I've tried varying size, quantity with no success.

Do you think he knows it's Winter and is unknowingly trying to brumate? Do I have anything to worry about?

He seems healthy... good skin sheen, active, feisty when I try to hold him...

My son's Grey-Banded King died after refusing to eat for a number of months. I just don't remember how long to wait before panicking.

Thanks,

Walt

Don't worry it's a sesonal thing.What temp do you keep him in this time of year?
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"Wake me when its April"

Doug L

I don't have a thermometer in the enclosure, but I use a spot light for heat on top of the screened lid. Should I lower the wattage in the bulb?

Should I keep attempting to feed him, and if so, how often?

Thanks!

First off, you HAVE to have a thermometer in there to make sure you don't cook or freeze him. Secondly, using an overhead heat lamp is likely creating a desert-like atmosphere in there. That radiant heat will eat up any humidity in the air or in the substrate. If you don't have a thermometer, then I can surmise that you don't have a humidity gauge. It could be simple seasonal behavior, or it could be that your snake is stressed out by it's conditions, especially since winter air is already too dry.

he needs a warm end and a cool end. A hide in each end. clean water, and some relative humidity. Heat tape or a UTH are preferable alternatives to a spotlight. Even if conditions are great, he still may remain a slow feeder in winter, but he'll be a happier fella for it
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1.0 C/B Brooks
0.1 C/B Lavender brooks
0.0.1 W/C Scarlet King
0.0.1 W/C Eastern Milk
0.0.1 W/C Yellow Rat
0.0.1 W/C Western Garter
1.0 C/B Black Lab
1.0 C/B Min. PoodleXAmer. Eskimo hybrid
1.0 C/B Goofy Cat
1.2 C/B Children
0.1 W/C wife

Thanks... I'll wet it up in there.

Applying dampness to the cage isn't the notion I think 54podge was recommending....although a localized damp/humid spot isn't a bad thing. I believe he was worried that the relative humidity in the air was too low from the utilization of the heat lamp.

I suggest getting a temperature gun. They are completely worth the money. I think I've seen some as low as $20.....they're quick, reliable, convenient, and accurate. Plus they measure surface(belly) temps as opposed to ambient air temps.
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1.0.0 Lampropeltis getula holbrooki
0.1.0 Lampropeltis getula californae
0.0.1 Lampropeltis getula nigra
1.0.0 Lampropeltis mexicana thayeri
2.3.0 Eublapharis macularius macularius
0.0.2 Rhacodactylus ciliatus
0.1.0 Gerrhosaurus major major

I had a similar problem recently, but my issue was completely my fault. First off, the temps had been lower than usual. Second, the light cycle had been much shorter than Zorro was used to. She thought it was time to hibernate. I don't usually brumate her as she isn't a breeding animal - just a spoiled pet.

As far as cooling goes, I'm no expert in that field. Bluerosy and some of the other experienced breeders can chime in here.

Here's my advice:

1. Get a thermometer and a humidity gauge. These are a must have for any reptile keeper. It could be as high as 100 degrees F in the tank or as low as 10 degrees F and you wouldn't know it. These guys require proper temperatures in order to digest food. If you want to go cheap, go to Walmart and buy the digital thermometer/humidity gauge with a probe and stick that in the tank in the substrate. You really need one for each end. If you want to go really cheap, get the fish thermometers (that stick to the side of the tank) and put one on each end of the tank at the very bottom. Even if you decide to use the fish thermometers, I would get a temp gun or a thermometer with a probe to verify your readings. You should be able to get the analog humidity gauges from any general petstore.

2. I don't use under tank heaters primarily because I can't afford a good thermostat, which you really need. I use a heat lamp instead. This is where the thermometer is really important. I keep my temps around 80-82F on the warm side and 76-78F on the cool side. How warm the heat lamp keeps the tank depends on the bulb and how far the lamp is from the substrate. Zorro's big tank is 75 gallons. I have to use a 100W bulb in the winter because it's about 20 inches plus from the lamp to the substrate. I also mist the tank about once a day, depending on the humidity, because screen lids heat lamps = serious humidity drops.

My optimal conditions:

Cool side: 76-78F
Warm side: 80-82F
Humidity: 40-60%

**All of the above are verified with a digital thermometer/humidity gauge w/ a probe.

Here's a pic of my setup.

I'm not trying to offend you with anything here.
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0.1 Banded California kingsnake - Zorro
1.0 Betta fish - Billy
0.0.3 White Cloud Fish
1.0 RES - Chopstick
0.1 Australian Shepherd - Jet
0.1 Domestic Shorthair Mix Cat - Pirate

Sorry. That last part should read "screen lids heat lamps"

LOL
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0.1 Banded California kingsnake - Zorro
1.0 Betta fish - Billy
0.0.3 White Cloud Fish
1.0 RES - Chopstick
0.1 Australian Shepherd - Jet
0.1 Domestic Shorthair Mix Cat - Pirate

It keeps omitting the "plus"...Sorry...."Screen lids plus heat lamps"