Bearded dragons are one of the hardiest lizards out there to keep which is why they are popular pets the world over. There has been extensive research into the wild and captive habits of Pogona spp which means sorting through all the information can be more complicated than it needs to be. In the US there would be many more keepers of Bearded dragons than here in Australia so I’m sure there are many different ways in which people keep them very successfully. Of course, we try to mimic their natural habitat as much as possible but it is important to remember that in captivity we have much more control over conditions, allowing us to create an environment they will thrive in. Pogona spp live in a range of habitat from desert to wet schlerophyll forests but most thrive in dry woodlands. This is a description of how we keep our Bearded dragons and how we would recommend the amateur enthusiast do so as well. Other people may give differing advice and we don’t want to take away from other methods- this is what works for us and the majority of keepers in Australia. We also work in degrees Celsius so will leave the calculations to you!
Like all reptiles, we need to create a thermal gradient which consists of a cool and a warm area of the enclosure. This is generally between 24 and 32 degrees Celsius. We find a basking spot of around 28-32 degrees is great providing the lizard can retreat into a cooler area of the cage at any time. Agamids prefer a basking heat to come from above so we suggest a spot light or similar rather than a heat pad although a heat pad is commonly used to keep ambient temperatures constant in colder regions and at night. In the wild, Bearded dragons will regularly bask at temperatures as high as 60 degrees Celsius for short periods but will shuttle to and from the shade to maintain a constant body temperature. This can be achieved in captivity as well but it is not recommended as cage design can limit the amount of heat that can escape and can cause major fluctuations in the thermal gradient. Reptiles can over-heat very easily. UV is a very necessary ingredient to keep a healthy Beardy and here at Australia Zoo we provide that through natural sunlight. There is no substitute for the real thing however here we have the ability to be constantly checking temperatures to ensure temperatures don’t get too high and that other environmental conditions are accounted for. This is not always possible in the home setting so we suggest a suitable UVB fluorescent tube to provide around 8 hours a day of artificial sunlight. A small bowl providing fresh water should also be available to the lizard at all times and is best situated at the cooler end of the thermal gradient.
As to your question of substrate choice, there are pros and cons to most options. Some people choose to use paper for ease of cleaning but this doesn’t allow the dragons to naturally wear their claws down. Sand that is very fine can cause impaction if too much is ingested and some other potting mixtures can hold a lot of moisture raising humidity in enclosures that are not well ventilated. We choose to use untreated soil from an area we know is not sprayed with any herbicides or pesticides and is generally on the dry side. We provide an even level of soil throughout to facilitate digging and shedding. As the dragon sloughs, old skin can be easily trapped around toes and claws and on the end of the tail in young specimens which can cause amputation if not removed. In captivity it is common for the keeper to gently remove this retained shed but a suitable substrate will help this. In the wild, normal movements through their environment cause this skin to be easily shed. The thermal gradient provides both warm and cool areas so we don’t believe it necessary to provide a moist and cooler area below the surface as you suggested. Gravid females are often provided a deeper soil substrate at both ends of the thermal gradient for oviposition. A heat pad can also be used to keep temperatures below the surface at suitable temperature which can be between 28-30 degrees Celsius. These areas are kept slightly more humid than usual to facilitate the construction of their nest chamber. Once oviposition is achieved eggs are removed for incubation.
This is a very brief description as to housing and hope it helps in some way. Thanks for your email and good luck with your Beardys.
Cheers
Ryan
Reptile Department
Australia Zoo
Hope it helps anyone interested!
