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I enjoyed the conversation on choices below, so I thought I would share my approach. Since reading FR's posts back in 2005-2006, and with advice from Peter Jolles, I decided to offer more choices to my females that I hoped to breed each season. Attached are photos of the setup I use for breeder females. I work to offer multiple choices in regards to humidity and temps.

First off, the humidity boxes. I set two of these up on the cool side of the tank. Both are filled with paper towels, which are changed weekly. One box is kept more moist than the other by using more paper towels and adding more water to the box. You can see that the box on the left is almost wet.

I cover the boxes with cypress mulch and put the waterbowl over the most moist box. Note that there is also some substrate under the moist boxes and the snake like to get under there at times also...

I have to refresh the mulch that covers the boxes weekly due to taking the boxes out to clean them and due to snake rooting around. This is why mulch appears so moist over the boxes.

In addition to the two moist hides on the cool side of the cage that both have different degrees of moisture/humidity, I offer two dry hides on the warm side of the cage. The warm hides differ in temps with the one on the far right being directly over the heat pad and the one on the left only having a portion under the heat pad.

Notice that substrate is thinner on the heated side to allow snake better access to the UTH. Also note that the majority of the cool/moist side of the tank is covered on top in an effort to trap in a little more humidity.

Substrate temps, measured by placing a thermometer in the substrate, range from mid-60's on the cool side to upper-80's on the hottest part of the warm side.

Very interesting to note the way the snakes move from the cooler to warmer parts of the cage as they have more options to do so as opposed to snakes in a rack (which I also keep, so I'm not judging anyone who does), that just sit in one hide all of the time.

I have learned more about the behavior of the animals and enjoyed the animals more by doing things this way each year than by just keeping them all in tubs, plus all of the moving around can't hurt the egg laying process for the snake either. Keeping it clean and organized takes almost daily work though...

Here's a female L.t.andesiana under the warmest hide two days after eating an XL Mouse. No doubt she will move back to the cool, moist hides within the next day or so.

Thanks for looking.

Michael

Thanks for sharing that! Great idea to have two moist hides with varying amounts of humidity, great idea to cover them as well to conserve moisture. I think the whole idea was to get closer to mimicking nature with more choices not to mimic exactly. You have done a great deal more for your animals than a lot. Great temp gradient as well!
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Todd Hughes

Things moving out your way yet? I'm heading down east on March 18 and hoping for 60's and sunshine so the tin will produce...

Michael

We've had a pretty good winter but are in a serious drought. While the herps are around they are not moving en masse. We really need some rain to get things going down here.
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Todd Hughes

It is interesting. Nice post, thanks.
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Mark

I have been putting my moist hides on the warm end and the dry hides on the cool end. Am I bassackwards in my thinking?
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How about putting both humid and dry hides on both sides?
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"Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Homebrew!" Charlie Papazian

I am no expert by any means, just looking at ways to offer choices. My thought was that the heat would dry out the moist hides too fast and that bacteria would grow faster in a moist hide at 85 degrees vs. 65 degrees.

I would love to hear about results that you are getting with moist hides on the warm end. How often are you having to moisten the moist hide on the warm side? How would we know if the moist warm hide was causing bacterial/fungal growth to the extreme?

I would also like to hear how you all feed your snakes in such a habitat. They get hidden down in the bedding so much sometimes that I have a hard time getting them to come out to eat. I end up uncovering them in order to get them to come out and eat. I like to watch them feed b/c I don't want them to swallow substrate. What do you all do?

Thanks for the feedback.

Michael

That is a pretty nice set up. If I were you I would make a few adjustments...

I would use spagnum moss instead of paper towel. This will make your work load much easier because the pH of the spag prevents bacterial growth. I change mine about once per month.

I would also put at least one of those boxes in the middle of the tank. Not on the hot side, but if she lays and it takes you a little while to notice the eggs you might loose some if they are too cool.

As far as feeding, you can do a few things. If you really like to watch them eat then take the FT mice and sit them on top of the tank. give the tank a wiggle to wake up the snake. Come back in half an hour and he will be out looking for food. Personally I would just toss a mouse in there. I really wouldn't worry about substrate injestion. They are pretty good about getting most of it off. And a little wood chip never hurt a decent sized snake before. Remember, their digestive systems pulverize bone. I have never seen a snake get an impaction from ingesting substrate.

Lastly, you might want to throw a spotlight on their during the day. Some people get by with hot spots in the 80s but I feel that its pretty marginal. By using a light on a timer you will create a nice night/day temp swing too.

Overall nice job though. Never stop messing around. If it aint broke...it could always be better.

Thanks Zach,
Will switch to the moss in the next few weeks and move one moist hide to a warmer spot. Make sense when she gets ready to lay esp. Good ideas.

Thanks,
Michael

most of my snakes have learned to come out when I gently drum my fingers on the cage, they "hear" the dinner bell, so to speak, lol.
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Todd Hughes

You will need to add water as needed as your hide dries out, but those swings are not good for bacteria and mold. I think your more likely to get mold growth on the cooler side of the cage where the conditions are more consistent, and just remove as needed. Of course if you cover the top the entire cage will be more humid and not dry out as fast.

Have fun!
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"Relax, Don't Worry, Have a Homebrew!" Charlie Papazian