Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Ok, first off, I just wanna say that I shouldn't have been so pissy about the negative comments I recieved on the post below...I guess it was just having a guy PMS moment (no offense ladies). I got the bright idea to simply seperate my cage into two smaller ones. The resulting floorspace should still be big enough for the hatchling pythons from what I have read. Will this be better? I put a colored divider between the two sub-cages so they can't see each other. I figure that this will also help with the humidity and everything too right? I moved the heat source to the middle of the cage so that both snakes would receive the same amount of heat. I also gave the blood the larger water bowl with doubles as a hiding spot (the handles on the side allow for the snake to go under the dish) to help with humidity and soaking...am I now on the better path? If not let me know...say what you want. I was being a dork before.

Oh yeah, he didn't eat today, which is why I did all of this. I also put paper on the outside of his side of the cage so that he can't see out (an idea from an earlier post). I planning on not handling him for the next little while as well...give him a little time to get adjusted to his "new-new surrounding."

One more thing as well...I wasn't clear enough in the topic below but just so you guys know, both snakes (Blood and Ball)were purchased at the same time, at the same show, by the same Breeder. This is the only reason why I thought that quarentening (sp) wouldn't have been as much of a big deal as it would have if I would have had the ball python before. I was planning on getting the Blood, but my girlfriend...a snake virgin...went with me and fell in love with the Ball. How do you tell a girl (who didn't even want me to have a snake) "No," when she asks if she can get her own and let it live with yours? Anyways, just a little more info...

My buddy did the same thing dividing the tank up the same way, except different snakes.Do you have a humdidty and temperature gauge in your tank.Also what substrate are you using.Misting your cage will help with the humidity, but don't over saturate,and you don't want a constant wet floor.And screen tops don't do you any good holding humidity either.Now don't touch him untill you get 6-8 good feeds out of him.Try feeding late at night, as this is when he's most active.Try a fresh kill, and leave it in there over night, hopefully it will be gone.If not try again the next night, with a new prey of course.I'm still waiting on my new little sarawak to eat, it's been around 10 days or so, he'll eventually come around, you can tell he's still scared, but is getting better in my presence.TImes like these can be frustrating, experience and helpfull hints does pay off in the end. Good luck, Ethan

Hey,
How's it going. Having trouble feeding, I would lay down a fresh layer of cypress mulch, and put a nice tight hide box, and watch these guys go to work. This method is almost full proof for obstinate feeders and will work with a little consideration into what they appreciate in the wild.

They are ambush predators and most like to hide just beneath the surface of the top layer of damp-soil. I use a 5 gallon aquarium with its screen top covered with some movie gels used in the motion picture industry to keep the cage humid ( 70-80% ), and keep an under cage or tank heater (radiant heat matt-B.A.H.) just under the hide source. The hot spot should not be allowed to get hotter than 90* fahrenheit (ambient temp=75*).

I use cork slabs or half rounds of cork, for hiding spots and they work great. I good 1-2 inch layer of cypress mulch sprayed once every week will work. Of course checking on the humidity with a gauge couldn't hurt, but I never use one in these small cages as they don't dry up using the method described. Anyhow, try it, it might just work for you too.