This caresheet address the specific needs of a newly arrived baby BRB. For additional info please see my overall BRB caresheet.
Arrival:
Your new baby has just undergone a stressful experience. Stuffed in a bag or deli cup, packed in a box, most likely NOT at optimal temps, bounced around for some time and now in your hands.
While it's understandable you want to get him/her/them out and start handling, it's really best that you interact as little possible. Absolutely, check the baby over and ensure nothing apears wrong. That it is what you were expecting etc. But try to keep handling to a minimum. You should already have the enclosure(s) set up and stabilized prior to allowing your new baby(s) to be shipped so put him/her/them in the new enclosure(s).
Temps:
Babies do best right around 80 degrees. Maybe one or two degrees higher if there is a good temp gradient. Several degrees lower at the cool end - around 75. DO NOT let the temps reach or go over 85 as those temps without escape can be lethal!!
Humidity:
BRB's are from a very humid part of the world. They NEED high humidity when they are little, above 70%. I admit, I do not measure humidity, I do provide a humid cage always though. My babies thrive in a very simple set-up - Small shoebox size plastic drawer rack with NO holes added to the drawers, only the gap at top for ventilation. Paper towel substrate. Deli-cup water bowel and belly heat from a strip of flexwatt controlled by a good proportional thermostat
Hides:
A hide is ONLY a hide if the snake feels crammed into it! One great option is a damp moss hide. Small plastic container with access hole and daqmp moss inside. Carefull though, too damp and it will mold.
Feeding:
First thing many keepers want to do is feed that starving little snake. And is far from the best care you can give. Snakes do NOT need to eat frequently. Babies can go months between feedings with no ill affects other than not growing. Shipping and feeding are both stressful on a little snake. You know it was just shipped so don't add to the stress level by feeding right away. I suggest waiting a week before feeding. Does not have to be exactly seven days, I feed my little ones on Monday or Tuesday so anything that arrives one week gets the following Monday/Tuesday.
Prey size:
Baby BRB's can take down large hopper mice from birth. That does not mean they should. I start mine on small hopper mice - eyes open, starting to dart around cage. Of course you may not have an ample supply of feeders and may have to work with what you have access to. Alternatives are Pinky Rats or a couple of mouse fuzzies. Best however and most likely taken is a mouse hopper. Weekly feedings for the first 8 - 12 months tapering off to every other week.
Shedding:
Should be every month or two as they grow. Should be one piece sheds. Torn while getting off is OK but shedding in tatters indicates dehydration - low humidity!
Biting:
Yup, does happen! BRB's do get used to handling and can easily be conditioned to not bite. The combination of shipping and new smells can trigger defensive behaviors. Best thing to do is ignore the bite, it's really not that bad. If you ignore the biting, it will quickly learn that biting does no good and stop. If your snake bites and the "bad hand" puts it down, it learns to bite to get put down!!
comments welcome!!!!
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Thanks,
Dave Colling
www.rainbows-r-us-reptiles.com
0.1 Wife (WC and still very fiesty)
0.2 kids (CBB, a big part of our selective breeding program)
LOL, to many snakes to list, last count:
26.49 BRB
20.21 BCI
And those are only the breeders 
lots.lots.lots feeder mice and rats 
