Reptile & Amphibian Forums

So, I went out and got myself another bearded dragon. This one is a small one not a hatchling, but not that large either. Anyway, the first day he came home he ate a few crickets. But since then I couldn't get him to eat anymore, or at least not a lot of it in front of me or behind my back. I've only had him for about 3, 4 days. I think he is still acclimating to the new cage. He is very skittish and would hide as soon as I walk into the room. Should I keep offering food even though he doesn't want to eat them, or should I leave him be and let him get use to his new home first before I start doing anything with him? So far he has only eaten a few crickets, so he's been eating but just not in front of me and not a lot of it (maybe 5 or 6 crickets) like a bearded dragon should. Should I be worried? My other one ate fine right after I got her, but she is not skittish like this one. This one will puff up and bite me if I tried to pick it up and would hide if he sees me looking at him. He seems to be alert and healthy.

How long have you had the first one?
Is the basking temperature right for the new one?
Are you using the same brand and types of lighting on both cages?

Well, the first one is probably a little over 1 year old, but she ate great since the first day I got her and still is. As for the new one the basking temperature range from 90 degree F to 110 degree F. Right now the basking light is off because the temperature is in the 100's outside. And as for the UV light, yes, I have the same light as my other one, but my other one is eating fine...no problem. I'm thinking maybe this new is a bit more insecure than my first female. I think I'm gonna give it some time before starting to do anything with her.

Leave crickets in a bowl in the cage and come back in an hour to remove any uneaten crickets (they tend to die if left in a bowl in a cage after awhile, though if you put a few greens in as well, crickets can sort of hide underneath and have something to snack on..and the greens can be eaten by the dragon too. Just make sure the greens are not piled so high the crickets can get out of the bowl easy (though crickets can still jump out, sometimes they don't think of that though.)

Temperature outside doesn't matter, whether its 100F or -100F. What is important is the temperature in your cage. Your basking spot range is fine, what is the cool end of the cage's temperature? Also leave the basking spot on. If it heats up the cage too much, reduce wattage of the bulb. You can easily get 25 watt bulbs. What you are looking for is the light intensity to promote proper basking temperatures. If the light in the cage is too dim, your dragon will think its time to brumate. Or he will think its evening and not bask at all.

It isn't unusual for dragons to not eat much during the first week or two after you bring him home, so don't be too worried he doesn't eat alot. Some dragons also take longer to become used to their new home as well. Cover all the sides of the cage except the front to make him feel more comfortable. Also, when you enter the room do it slowly instead of rushing in at your normal walking pace. A sudden arrival of a large potential predator in its vicinity will cause a skittish dragon to flee for cover. Its a survival instinct. In time he will come to know that you are not going to eat it and will not panic when he sees you coming.

I also wouldn't bother trying to handle him right now. Just get him used to his cage and eating regularly, then you can slip some gloves on and pick him up for a few minutes to get him used to handling.
-----
PHLdyPayne

Ok, thank you for the reply! At the moment the basking light is not on. The temperature reach bout 92 degree even with out the basking light. Is this a problem?

The problem is if the cool end of the cage is 92F. If it is then your dragon can't find a place to cool down. You will need to get an AC unit to bring the room temperature down to about 80F.

The Basking spot should be a bit warmer...at least 95F...to ensure proper digestion. Though if that is your ambient basking temperature without any basking light, your biggest concern is giving your dragon a way to cool down.
-----
PHLdyPayne

Actually, I have the same problem. Often my ambient gets really warm, high 90's, just a part of having a lot of enclosures. 92 works on the cool end, but is not ideal. 92 is still lower than a dragons ideal temp. so it is OK. Just takes them longer to cool down. The solution is to keep the range closer so it takes them longer to warm up, as well as longer to cool down.

My electric bill is $400 , just imagine what it would be if I A/C'd to get a cool side of 80 in the summer.

It gets so darn hot these last couple days here in Northern California in the Central Valley. Central Valley is blocked off by mountains so cooler breeze from the ocean can't get to it. But boy in the winter time it gets really cold. My electricity bill is going to the roof, too, with all the lizards I'm keeping. lol So....

n/p

I would keep trying to feed him/her. Leave the crickets in full time and just take them out at night. I would bloch his/her view on all sides but one. What kind of enclosure are you using? You say it's over 100 outside, what is it inside?

Hi! Thank you for responding! He is in a 20 gallon right now and the temperature in the lizard room can reach about 90 degree. When that happen I turn off all the lights. Thank you for suggesting blocking all three sides with something. I was think of doing that, but haven't gotten around to do it yet.

I'd get a small spot light. I use Par 20's. A 35W or 50W would be good depending on distance and don't use a reflector dome. They will give a higher temp. basking spot without raising the overall ambient much.

I'm gonna get a dimmer. Thanks for the suggestion.

Dimmers aren't the answer you'll see. You have to reduce the size of the basking spot when the overall ambient gets hot. Get it warm in a smaller area is the answer to getting a range of temps.