Hi Juli,
We keep the leaf chameleons in plexiglass tanks that have windows cut into three sides and are covered with screened lids. One could even glue cork panels to the back of the tank to make it more "woodsy" in appearance. The tanks should be vertically oriented, planted with lots of small stick-like plants, as well as some small-leafed vines for dew collection. These are the only chameleons that should be kept with soil substrate and plants planted in it.
Be sure to add many horizontal "stick highways" up off the substrate, which they will utilize a lot. Many times, we find that with the exception of females digging in the substrate to lay their eggs, only sick brevs spent much time at all on the substrate. One may hear that they hide in leaf litter. We have never found this to be true of the R. brevs. They usually spend their time up in the plants and on the stick highways. They usually sleep in the plants. To help with tank cleanliness, you can add some pill bugs.
One should mist their tanks at least twice a day, quite heavily (use warm water). Be careful not to swamp the tank. The techniques utilized for PDF (poison dart frog) husbandry would be great here (the layered substrate with drainage, etc.). However, the tanks must be allowed to dry out between mistings. They seem to be susceptible to URI if kept too humid constantly. Therefore, we believe the cross ventilation of the tanks is imperative.
We use Reptisun 2/0 or 5.0 over the tank, with a small basking light over one corner that has a branchy stick under it (so they could adjust their height under the heat lamp and therefore thermoregulate). One can use a 15W regular incandescent bulb or a 20W, 12 vdc under-cabinet halogen disc. They do not bask all day, but often spent some time in the mornings warming up. We suggest day temperatures should be a gradient from 74-82 degrees F. Maintain night temperature range between 68-73 degrees F.
We offer fruit flies (hydei) and one-week crickets, but have found they often go after two-week and even smaller three-week crickets as they get larger! Certainly younger and smaller brevs would need size appropriate food offered to them. Another food option is termites and fly larve. We have never tried roaches.
It is also important to feed the crickets. Place a piece of fruit or a small dish of fruit baby food on the substrate within reach of the highway. This will encourage the insects to congregate. This makes it easier for the brevs to find food and offers some nutritional help to the insects (to the brev's benefit). This practice also reduces the chance of crickets nibbling on the brevs.
We have had success with 1.2 or 1.3 groups. Unless the tank is very large, it is not recommended to have more than one male in a tank. Our small tanks are 24" long and 12" front to back, 18" high. Our larger tanks are 48" long, 18" front to back and 20" high.
We usually extract the eggs (if we see them being laid). Once extracted, place them in a small deli cup with barely moist vermiculite and incubate in a dark closet. The temperature should be between 68-74F. The eggs should hatch between 60-73 days from deposit. Most first-time females will lay 2-3 eggs, older females usually lay 4-5 eggs. The females can lay eggs every other month.
If you leave the eggs in the tank (where lain), do not worry. The adults do not bother the babies while they are still small. As always, watch for aggression and different growing rates and separate out problem children. Do not leave them with the adults as they approach sexual maturity (as young as 3 months!).
While most folks think they don't move around much, many breeders find them to be quite mobile when they are healthy. They roam the tank hunting, etc.. They are known to freeze in place, of course, if they spot someone watching them! We find this species absolutely fascinating!!!
We find these chameleons to be a very short-lived species (2 years on average). The main cause of death, we feel, is complications from being wild caught and exported - many of the females being gravid. The stress on such a tiny creature is awful - but some do survive. Once you get them to reproduce - you can develop new breeding colonies - and these should be easier to maintain.
One thing we have noticed while raising young'ns - the juveniles sometimes have difficulties shedding. This can cause death. They do not shed in pieces - usually 2 halves (upper and lower). When they catch the skin on a branch, they can sometimes get suffocated - so watch them carefully.
Hope this helps,
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