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Question - Cali King Diet and Behavior

clemmej01 Jul 28, 2009 02:44 AM

I am really enjoying my beautiful new, 22 inch-long, 10 month-old, blue-eyed, chocolate brown and creamy yellow banded, Hypo Cali King snake. I've had the snake for a little less than 3 months now and am very pleased. The snake is not only gorgeous, but very active/curious, friendly* and seems very healthy.

Just to note, The snake is kept in a 30 gal glass tank with a heating pad and a small night lamp to one side. The temp on the cooler side stays 75F deg (pretty consistent) at 60% humidity. The snake spends time in both zones but is more often found in the cooler zone. It often climbs it's rock thingy and also spends time in its water too, but does not sit in it for long periods...just a quick dip and them out (never poops in the water).

All that said, my post is really about two things - diet and behavior, and the effect one has on the other.

When I got my snake, I waited about 7 days before feeding it. I gave it one pinkie...no problem. The snake was 18 inches long at the time and shed 3 days after I fed it (cool!). It let me pick it up from day-one. It only nipped once or twice in the first two weeks...nothing serious. It was calm and curious and I was calm too.

Then I started feeding two pinks about every 10 days. Seemed to be OK. After a month (June) it was a bit more nippy. It always tolerated being picked up (still does). In fact, for the past couple of weeks, when I take off the lid, it slowly climbs up its rock and out onto my hand...it definitely recognizes my face and is fine around me BUT it is getting more unpredictable. Twice it has locked on to me (not just nipping).

I last fed it 7 days ago...3 pinks. It teared into them aggressively - not just striking them like normal. It attacked the first pinkie like I have never seen (Rated R style). I am now officially not sure what is going on and, as you can probably tell, I am questioning my approach (and knowledge) when feeding and handling.

As for handling, I am very slow and gentle with the snake. I avoid running my free hand in front of it, or startling it with jerky motions. I always try to let it decide where it wants to go but I always try to control its options...I don't "play" with it. I handle it and hope that we both grow into a great long term relationship where I understand it and it understands me. But ready or not, this snake is growing and I am trying to stay relaxed.

Maybe I should give it less per feeding (maybe two pinks) but feed it more frequently (maybe every 5-6 days). OR I could continue to try and feed it every 7-10 days but give more food...maybe something bigger than 2 day old pinkies. I don't want to ASSume that just because a snake can fit a larger piece of food in its mouth automatically means that it's time to "move up" to that larger size food. Strangely, I don't want it to grow too fast because it still bites (Don't want a larger mouth coming at me), but if the snake bites less once it grows larger then, heah, bring on the fuzzies. (rookie syndrome).

The snake has had two clean sheds in 2.5 months so I can't be messing up too badly on food or humidity. My goal is to understand its needs and make sure it gets what it needs so that it's happy and not so aggressive. If diet/portion can influence the snake's behavior then I do need to understand this better. If it's not diet at all then I'm all ears.

I have read, more than once, on the forum that as Kings age or grow, ideally, they become less afraid of big ugly humans (like me), more calm and comfortable around them, which means no nipping. I want to believe this. Aging out of nipping is fine but aggression is different.

Last thought. I have read some of you say that males become aggressive when they want to mate. Not sure if this applies...don't know the sex yet. Assuming "he" is a male, I still would need to learn if males display this sort of behavior when less than one year old. Maybe this is what is going on here... Maybe food is not influencing behavior at all (HELP!!!!).

Thank you in advance for letting me blather on...I will stop now.

Replies (13)

bowhunter1963 Jul 28, 2009 08:11 AM

Your snake is hungry that's why it is getting aggressive now.When my kings were 20" or so I was feeding them hoppers.Your snake is telling you it is hungry.I usually feed mine every 5-7 days or sooner if they are cruising alot.Feed it bigger meals and it will calm down again.Hope this helps.
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1.0 aberrant cal. king
0.1 reverse spotted cal. king
0.2 mbk's
1.1 florida kings
1.1 anery brooks
1.0 hypo brooks
0.1 albino brooks
1.1 normal corns

clemmej01 Jul 28, 2009 11:05 AM

Thanks for taking the time to read my long post. This sounds encouraging. I still have some pinkies so I will try to work them in until they are gone but will start making hoppers the main meal.

Do you (or anyone else out there) have any thoughts on male behavior during mating season? And when can I expect to be able to determine the sex (now or not for a while)?

Thanks again!!!

Great forum!
Image

kingsnake1 Jul 28, 2009 12:36 PM

I agree with bowhunter. I feed my yearling Calking 2x week. He is app. 22" and eats hoppers twice weekly. He would probably eat more if I allowed him. I have 3 month old Cals that are eating fuzzies twice weekly. I suggest you feed bigger meals more often.

As far as sexing your snake, if you know how to "pop" them, you can sex them as soon as they hatch. Or you can probe as they get older. In many cases, you can just eyeball it and tell the sex. All of these require some training and experience.

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Greg Jackson

clemmej01 Jul 29, 2009 07:46 AM

I've never tried to sex a snake. I have looked at other forum entries to see if any "how to" info made me feel like it was do-able for me.

I guess I could try to pop it, but I am not comfortable with trying to probe. I would like to go to a vet and have them work with me...I also know a guy at a store that would definitely help me out.

I have heard conflicting things (in the forum) about if a yearling is too old to pop...not sure what you think about that. Ultimately, I probably need a good book on Kings as a standard reference AND use the forums too.

Thanks.

PS - Nice snake! Good pic.

SMELLtheGlove Jul 28, 2009 11:11 PM

Oh wow, that is a gorgeous snake.

clemmej01 Jul 29, 2009 07:58 AM

Oh yeah, totally! When I first saw it, I knew right then that it was comin' home with me...the same instant attraction I get when meeting a beautiful gal (Hmm, maybe the snake is female?!?!). Of course, women just turn me down...the snake had little choice in the matter. (he, he, he...)

I have only one other pic posted right now (this one) but plan on posting some more soon. Check'em out!

markg Jul 28, 2009 02:17 PM

The advice you got already is correct.

Regarding feeding schedules, it is kind of unreasonable to approach feeding a kingsnake on set intervals at all times during the year. Yes, I know books say to do this, and that may work well for ball pythons or boas, but kings are different in that way. There are times when the snake will eat almost daily if given the chance, and there will be times when the snake will not want to feed.

The best approach is generally this: if the snake is obviously hungry and looking for food, feed it a meal that makes a slight lump in the snake more or less. Do that as often as the snake seems hungry. This may be every 2-3 days during certain times of the year, and it may be longer intervals at other times. The snake will let you know. And when the snake is not actively searching for food or doesn't give you that ready-to-eat look, you don't need to feed it. Pretty much that simple.
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Mark

clemmej01 Jul 28, 2009 09:54 PM

Thanks to all that shared info. It's always helpful when everyone that responds agrees, like in this case. It gives me confidence. Thanks for going easy on a newbee.

markg Jul 30, 2009 12:48 PM

When I re-read my posts, it sounded like I was singling out you.
Not at all. Here is the sentence referred to:

>>Regarding feeding schedules, it is kind of unreasonable to approach feeding a kingsnake on set intervals at all times during the year. >>

I didn't mean you are unreasonable, I meant that the schedule-driven approach is not based on the snake's needs. All us keepers are or have been at one time or another guilty of basing things on schedules rather than the snake's needs.

My advice to you is to get the "7-day interval" out of your head and focus more on the snake is letting you know when it is hungry and when it is not. This is easy to do when you keep a stock of frozen mice handy to use them as needed.
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Mark

clemmej01 Jul 30, 2009 03:22 PM

NP...I didn't take it that way at all. I truly appreciate anyone willing to be helpful (in any forum or part of my day).

Just an hour ago, I gave him his first "big boy" meal - two pinkies (the appetizer) and one fuzzy! I will give him a couple pinkies for a while 'cause I have about 10 left, and I have hoppers on order (soon). Anyway, he gobbled it all up. That makes the timing of your response pretty interesting (how did you know?).

The coolest part is that he hung out in the water rubbing around and dipping his head under water for at least 20 minutes after feeding. I HAVE NEVER EVER (ever) SEEN THIS BEFORE!!!! Pretty flippin' cool. Best of all he chose NOT to poo in it (bonus).

My snake is now acting like a snake, and the snake's owner is slowly learning how to be a knowledgeable snake owner - thanks to the help I got from you and others!

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Jonathan

antelope Jul 30, 2009 10:20 PM

you are gonna see some more sheds a little more frequently!
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Todd Hughes

rtdunham Aug 01, 2009 11:58 PM

>>...ready or not, this snake is growing and I am trying to stay relaxed. ...

i can't explain it, but confidence in the human seems to me to alter the behavior of the animal--snake or otherwise. there shouldn't ever be a need to be nervous handling our snakes, because that's just counter productive. instead, keep a pair of garden gloves handy, and when you start being uneasy about one of your snakes, pop 'em on: you'll find you then approach and handle the animal differently, and that difference will often change the animal's behavior. (along with the advice you've gotten here about feeding more, too) After a short while you'll realize the animal's behavior has changed, and you won't need the gloves any more.

clemmej01 Aug 02, 2009 09:29 AM

VERY HELPFUL! Thanks for your input. I kinda sensed what you have said to be true but I have not been sure if it was (true). I will try this but just to note, I wear gloves in general because my hands are usually sweaty (always have been my whole life). If I don't have glove on, the snake can't move freely in my hands...it gets all caught up on my skin (and to think that when I was a kid, most everyone thought snakes were wet and slimy...ha).

The larger food portion really helped. I held him the next day and it was very different. Even the snake's body. It was more muscular and "snake-like". Actually, It has not come out of it's PVC pipe "home" at all on Saturday so I am kinda hoping it wants to come out for a little today. But I know it's not a puppy; it's doing what is right for it.

Thanks, again.
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Jonathan

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