I have a 6 yr. old who has a resporatory infection in his right lung. I am giving him baytril and keeping him warm. Anything else I can do to speed up his recovery?
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I have a 6 yr. old who has a resporatory infection in his right lung. I am giving him baytril and keeping him warm. Anything else I can do to speed up his recovery?
Sorry about your beardie...it sounds like youv'e had him to a vet since you mentioned infection in one lung which would have been seen by x-ray.Pretty much the anti-biotics and increasing the heat a bit...do this at night as well,if you don't have one,get a ceramic heat emitter[you must have a ceramic socket to screw it into,not plastic]If you don't have one,but a dark blue bulb from a home-improvement store[they produce a darker light than the red ones sold by pet stores,so it doesn't disturb the dragons sleep]Hopefully what you are doing will work..it just takes time.
Purchase some acidophiliz for lizards by Pet Authority and give to dragon 2x day. It's cheapest online but can be found in most pet stores. It puts good bacteria back into the system and helps them in recovery from heavy meds. They seem to like the taste too so it's easy to administer.
Kevin
Keep the humidity low in the tank!
It's more effective in recovery to increase cage humidity(50-60% RH). Too little is as deadly as too much. Along with the getting heat up too. Conditions that are too dry(0-20% RH) in the enclosure will cause respiratory infections. Vital organs barely function when there is too little moisture present in the lizard's system. 25-50% is an excellent humidity gradient for healthy bd's to have available at all times, 35-40% being optimal.
Let us know how the acidophiluz works out Piney. Store in fridge when not in use, very important.
Thanks, now working on the humidity too. Still searching for the acidophiluz.
This is incorrect information. Respiratory infections in bearded dragons are caused by too much humidity. Target humidity in the enclosure should be in the 25-40% range. Also probiotics will make no difference to this ailment either. They are effective and necessary when a dewormer is used.
They are both causes of the infection. Too little(0-20%) or too much(60-100%) over a long period of time spells doom for your dragon. I think many bearded dragon owners keep their cages too dry, needing to soak the lizard more than is necessary to make up for lost moisture. Over just a span of a few years they will not make it. They don't come from the desert and need plenty of moisture to thrive. Heat lamps counteract humidity and if there isn't a sustainable source of moisture in the encloure, it becomes a death trap.
Check this out, AU isn't one big desert:
http://www.bom.gov.au/jsp/ncc/climate_averages/relative-humidity/index.jsp
I recommended acidopiluz because it stabilizes the good bacteria count when using anti-biotics, such as Baytril that are known rid the lizard of the respiratory infection but is also taxing to their good bacteria count. It's an excellent product but will not cure the lizard of the infection itself, so we are agreed.
Kevin
Give us all the details about your setup. Something caused the respiratory infection and making sure its not something lacking in your husbandry is one way to ensure your dragon recovers quickly and will prevent relapse of the infection.
Make sure your dragon stays hydrated as well, some antibiotics can cause dehydration.
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PHLdyPayne
Thank you all for responding. Pete has been with me for 3 years. He has a cage that is 2x3x4 with wire and wood. There is a heat rock covered with sand and sand thru out the bottom, a heat lamp, a purple nite light. During the day I put a ramp from his cage to the back of my couch and he comes out when he wants. Forgot, also a uvb lamp. Just opened this post and am now in the progress of taking your advice. On my way now to the pet store for acidophilitz for lizards. Thanks to all again.
Hi again...hope your dragon will be recovering soon...one thing,if your cage is a screen cage,the heat may not be sufficient for basking..what is the wattage of your basking bulb?In a wire cage,the heat will dissipate quickly,that may be the problem...You should get rid of the hot rock and make sure he has an elevated basking area,this can be a large rock[ if you get one from outside,scrub with a scrub brush soapy water] or a store-bought large basking log..beardies want to climb,it's unnatural for them not to be able to.Cover at least 2 sides of the cage with cardboard or whatever to keep the heat in.Low temps may very well have caused the resp.infection.Basking spot should be at least 100-105.Take care !!
The cage is boards on sides and back, wire front and top. Top is in 3 sections with 2 sections of the wire covered. There are rocks and branches and he is able to climb in the basking area. Playsand on the bottom and cave areas. will monitor the temperature more carefully. He loves to leave the cage via the ramp and couch and run around the house. He gets along good with the box turtles, the tortoise is another matter. Tortoise attacks. Sorry, getting carried away.
Hi Piney...you are getting a lot of responses to help your fellow,he sounds like he has a caring owner.Just a thought for while he's sick,don't let him out of the cage to free-roam,he needs the heat that he can only get in his tank...proper temps are THE most important and will aid in his recovery.Check those temps and be sure he's basking,be sure the rest of the cage is a little warmer than usual as well,not like his basking spot but about 80-85.
I wouldn't consider my self a professional but a novice with lots of years keeping. And angie the first thing you said was increase heat at night. Im going to have to disagree and ill tell you why. I have had many a big burmese get resp. infections. And to over come along with anti biotics, proper humidity(high for burms) 25%-40% or whatever stated on here for the dragon, And higher daytime temps are Key. BUT a drop in nighttime temps is key for the animals immune system to function properly! In the burmese and in the bearded dragons. So i would allow the night time temps to drop into the low 70's for your dragons immune system to do its job 
Let us know it looks like u have gotten lots of help on here!
The temps.depend on where you live...where I'm at,it's in the 50's at night so suddenly the night temps. are different than even 3 weeks ago.So this should be taken into consideration...mid 70's is fine,but might take a night-time heat source to get it there and generally the dragon is free to move closer/further to that heat source.
Ya if your night time temps get that low you might want a heat source at night lol.
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