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The difference a week makes

varanid Oct 01, 2009 09:59 PM

My little rescue guy (or girl maybe), is doing very well. After the soaking (and a little veggie oil around the tail tip, thanks DMong) the shed's off. He's eaten 2 small pinkies from a litter that was born around the day I took him in. He's still of course, tiny for his age, but he's no longer wrinkly looking at all, and the shed's all gone He's in shed again too--eyes were cloudy last night and clear again today. I'll probably move him up to bigger pinkies after this shed.

I got him moved in a rack that came in--small tubs but with good humidity and heat, so hopefully he'll do fine for a bit. He's barely longer than the 12 qt. tub he's in right now.

Here's a picture--no shed, and looking good

Replies (16)

varanid Oct 01, 2009 10:03 PM

And if anyone has tips on getting good head shots on these guys please spill! I love the way their head looks with the large scales but the shots I take up close turn out blurry. With my pythons it's no problem--the heads are big enough to fill the field of view from a little bit away, but you gotta get super close with this guy and even with macro settings on it's just blurry!

orchidspider Oct 01, 2009 10:11 PM

Set your camera on as macro setting as you can. Play with the snake for a bit so it calms down and gets used to being handled and out of its cage- it may take a while for some but they do settle down. Then take your snake outside- for best light,out of the sun and on a nice background that best allows the viewer to see the different colors of the snake. In your case, don't use a brown leafy background- fine gray crushed gravel like the ones used on dirt paths- or even on a darker dirt path might work best. That's how I took the ones below of my Black Eastern King and of my SC Northern Pine snake.

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0.1 Bull- Northern
1.0 Bull- TX Red
0.1 Bull- KS Yellow
1.1 Bulls- Red X Yellow
1.0 Bull- Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
1.1 Pines- Carolina Northerns (M from NC, F from SC)
1.1 Ratsnakes- Black, Henderson Co. NC
1.1 Kings- Black Easterns (L.g.nigra) Todd Co. KY
1.2 Kings- Coastal CA
1.1 Kings- NC Eastern Chains (M from Union Co. & F from Mecklenburg Co.)
1.1 Kings- Gray Banded 'Blair's'
1.1 Kings- Speckled, Harris Co. TX
1.0 Boa- Hogg Island
1.2 Pythons- Ball

orchidspider Oct 01, 2009 10:15 PM

Oh also clean the pics up with Picasa 3- its a free download photo program that's really easy to learn- trust me- I am not computer savvy but I love this program. Use the "I'm feeling Lucky" function first and see how you like it, I then use the Sharpen function next. Then I go to Export File, and it shrinks the photo down to 480mp which is perfect for uploading on here.
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0.1 Bull- Northern
1.0 Bull- TX Red
0.1 Bull- KS Yellow
1.1 Bulls- Red X Yellow
1.0 Bull- Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
1.1 Pines- Carolina Northerns (M from NC, F from SC)
1.1 Ratsnakes- Black, Henderson Co. NC
1.1 Kings- Black Easterns (L.g.nigra) Todd Co. KY
1.2 Kings- Coastal CA
1.1 Kings- NC Eastern Chains (M from Union Co. & F from Mecklenburg Co.)
1.1 Kings- Gray Banded 'Blair's'
1.1 Kings- Speckled, Harris Co. TX
1.0 Boa- Hogg Island
1.2 Pythons- Ball

orchidspider Oct 01, 2009 10:45 PM

I took this pic lying on the ground looking at the pine sideways and she hit the perfect pose - sometimes you can get lucky...- at least I think so. This pic did need some sharpening however as the scales nearest to me were blurrier.

-----
0.1 Bull- Northern
1.0 Bull- TX Red
0.1 Bull- KS Yellow
1.1 Bulls- Red X Yellow
1.0 Bull- Medicine Hat, Alberta, Canada
1.1 Pines- Carolina Northerns (M from NC, F from SC)
1.1 Ratsnakes- Black, Henderson Co. NC
1.1 Kings- Black Easterns (L.g.nigra) Todd Co. KY
1.2 Kings- Coastal CA
1.1 Kings- NC Eastern Chains (M from Union Co. & F from Mecklenburg Co.)
1.1 Kings- Gray Banded 'Blair's'
1.1 Kings- Speckled, Harris Co. TX
1.0 Boa- Hogg Island
1.2 Pythons- Ball

RichH Oct 02, 2009 07:26 AM

..

jazmaniandevil Oct 03, 2009 08:53 PM

Personally I love the blur! It gives a lot of dignity to the snake, like it's not about the pretty markings, it's about that fierce pine brow and the snake under it!

varanid Oct 01, 2009 10:15 PM

here's what I've got so far. Last time I tried to take a snake outside for photos--it was a baby retic, about 5 or 6 feet long. A starling landed nearby and my snake went ape...I think she wanted to eat the bird! :D Only time that one ever bit me.

Upscale Oct 01, 2009 10:34 PM

I might take some pretty bad pictures, but I can offer this tip. I screwed a 2” bolt into the camera tripod mount hole (mine was regular ¼ 20 thread) and was able to use the bolt like a mini pole to steady the camera when shooting macro. Just rest the bolt on the surface so there is no vibration when you squeeze the button. I was having the same problem, and it was my shake when I took the picture. It is almost imperceptible when you do it, but the camera doesn’t lie!

rtdunham Oct 02, 2009 07:49 PM

>>And if anyone has tips on getting good head shots on these guys please spill!

there are good tips here from others, too. but try this: learn the camera controls on an inanimate object, not while you're wrestling with a squirmy snake. Practice getting good lighting and focus by taking pictures of your cellphone, or a fork, or a golf ball, or.... Use that practice to figure out where your camera is set to focus (small spot in dead center? averaging the whole frame? most cameras allow you to choose from those or other options) Where do you get the best lighting? What method enables you to best hold the camera steady? What part of the camera's zoom do you use? Most macros focus extremely closely only in wide-angle mode; when you start zooming in (using telephoto function) the distance from subject increases considerably.

As noted by others, the brighter the light, the faster the shutter speed, thus the sharper the picture, PLUS the more of the subject will be in focus: in dim light, at the camera lens's widest opening, your "depth of field" might be a fraction of an inch, and you want more than that.

And remember your camera's meter is reading the light on the subject, just as it reads the focus, depending on how it is set: is it reading a small spot dead center? picking an exposure setting that'll work best for the average part of the whole frame? If you have a snake that's neither very light nor very dark colored, and you try to photograph it against a background that's either of those things, the background will probably throw your exposure off, unless you have it set to read dead center and point that part of the frame at the snake.

Do you know that with most cameras you can depress the shutter half way, when you've got the focus & light right, and the camera will hold those settings until you press the rest of the way? That way, you can focus on the snake's head (in the center of the frame, for ex, if you've set your focus that way) and then move the aim slightly left or right, to show some coils of the animal, and the head will still stay in focus.

By the way, I liked your ground-level pic of the snake. NOthing wrong with the head being sharply focused and the coil closest to the camera being blurry. In fact, that directed attention nicely to the snake's head, which is the real point of interest.

DMong Oct 02, 2009 09:07 PM

That's exactly how I did this photo,...the head "portrait" was the main focus of attention, and the rest is slightly blurred, thus making it a little more interesting in this particular case.

~Doug


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"Better to be silent and thought a fool, than to open mouth and remove any doubt!"

rtdunham Oct 03, 2009 11:41 AM

>>That's exactly how I did this photo,...the head "portrait" was the main focus of attention, and the rest is slightly blurred, thus making it a little more interesting in this particular case.

yep, and that's a great shot. Human-portrait photographers choose longer focal length lenses because they allow a narrowed depth-of-field. When we use macro settings on digital cameras, and work inches from the subject, we don't need that extra boost--there will be a limited depth-of-field. The greater challenge can be getting the whole animal in focus, when you want to show detail in various parts. The brightest light possible, and the widest-angle focal length possible, give us the best chance at that.

DMong Oct 03, 2009 12:15 PM

>> "yep, and that's a great shot. Human-portrait photographers choose longer focal length lenses because they allow a narrowed depth-of-field. When we use macro settings on digital cameras, and work inches from the subject, we don't need that extra boost--there will be a limited depth-of-field. The greater challenge can be getting the whole animal in focus, when you want to show detail in various parts. The brightest light possible, and the widest-angle focal length possible, give us the best chance at that."

** Apparently you are not as dumb as you look!.............LOL!, just kidding of course..hahaha! Who am I to talk about dumb looks??.LOL!

Seriously though, you certainly know what you are talking about here. My dad is a top-notch photographer, but I know nothing at ALL about it compared to him. I have just done LOTS of manual reading and experimentation, and have finally been able to achieve some pretty fair results now, at least for the most part anyway. But just like everyone else, there are still many disappointing shots that are less than desirable too. I guess this is just something that goes along with the "territory" of photography..LOL!

~Doug


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"Better to be silent and thought a fool, than to open mouth and remove any doubt!"

DMong Oct 01, 2009 10:27 PM

Hey man!,...that's great to hear, and I'm glad it's doing much better now.

That can be very typical for them to shed after something goes very wrong like that stuck shed problem that was going on, and after his next one, things should go on very normally.

I'm really glad YOU have it now instead of being at the "torture chamber" it resided at before.

way to go!

~Doug
-----
"Better to be silent and thought a fool, than to open mouth and remove any doubt!"

varanid Oct 01, 2009 10:43 PM

snakes are remarkably resilient creatures. A little soaking, some wet towels, a few meals and the little dude looks tons better. Still small but *shrugs* he'll catch up.

I've seen snakes come back from horrible conditions before and recover from amazing injuries--my first snake was a garter that lost most it's tail and an eye thanks to Pooh Bear (mom's cat), and she lived through it and was eating and healthy again inside a month, although she had some nasty scarring for the rest of her life (8 or 9 years--I was in 6th grade when she was brought in, college freshman when she died). It's astonishing to see what animals can recover from even in a relatively short time. My great aunt has box turtles the neighbors bring her (and have been bringing her for decades, since the 50s or 60s) after they get hurt in the neighborhood--some of those have survived godawful stuff and gone on to live 30 or 40 years in her turtle garden.

I'm rambling, but for some reason this little dude makes me remember Mr. Stinky, the garter I mentioned earlier. Many fond memories of that snake, and helped along by some booze. They say you never forget your first and in my case that's certainly true.

DMong Oct 01, 2009 11:34 PM

Yes, I can certainly relate to all the above, my man!

that's really admirable what she was also doing for the turtles/tortoises as well.

best regards, ~Doug
-----
"Better to be silent and thought a fool, than to open mouth and remove any doubt!"

joecop Oct 01, 2009 11:07 PM

Awesome work my friend!! Pretty snake too. Glad there is a happy ending to this story.

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