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When should Russians start to hibernate?

time_lord Oct 14, 2009 05:20 PM

I keep my two Russians in an outdoor enclosure. They only just recently came out of estivation. This time of year, temps out here range from 60~75 during the day to 48~60 at night.

We have also been getting some rains, which I have protected them from via a tarp over their enclosure.

I have constructed a separate outdoor hibernaculum for them, which consists of a large Tupperware container filled with hay, that I then will double-insulate by storing in a larger deck box, also filled with hay. This will be kept out of the sun to prevent any temp spikes during the winter.

My question is: at what point do I take them out of their enclosure and put them away for the winter? Is it all based solely on temperature, or is it based on their behavior? (ie: they dig themselves a hole and don’t come out) Their daily-use hide box would tend to make it easy to locate them, should they decide to go into hibernation without consulting with me first but I’m wondering if I should do something before that?

Replies (8)

bradtort Oct 15, 2009 08:46 AM

I would watch their behavior. If they go into the hole and don't come out, that's a pretty good sign.

I start soaking them more often once they show signs of slowing down. I also stop feeding them. Give them time to empty their stomachs before hibernation.

Your weather sounds mild enough that if you don't catch them at the exact moment they start hibernating that nothing bad will happen. You are keeping them out of excess moisture and the temperatures won't drop too low.

Good luck.

time_lord Oct 15, 2009 10:22 AM

Thanks for the info.

If I keep them in an outdoor, planted enclosure, how do I stop them from eating? Seems as if nature would regulate that behavior, or no?

bradtort Oct 15, 2009 10:45 AM

>>Thanks for the info.
>>
>>If I keep them in an outdoor, planted enclosure, how do I stop them from eating? Seems as if nature would regulate that behavior, or no?
>>

That's true. When I kept mine outdoors most of the time they would slow down a little before the weather changed, and then I'd bring them indoors for a few weeks before starting hibernation. When indoors they would continue to eat probably because the temperatures were higher than outdoors. I'm in the Midwest and the summer to autumn change could be more dramatic with drops to around freezing and more rain.

Outdoors they would probably stop eating on their own. I wouldn't give them any extra food when it looks like they are going to hibernate. The sometimes more colorful or fragrant foods I can offer from the kitchen are more tempting than the dull green stuff that grows in their pen.

VICtort Oct 15, 2009 12:27 PM

TimeLord, when I kept my horsefieldi in a similar climate, I made darn sure they were "empty" of food...and it was easy because they had nothing left to eat at the end of the season. They seem to know to quit feeding, but might be tempted by a particularly attractive food. i.e. dandelion flower, hibisicus etc. I would keep them away from any food, soak them often for a couple weeks and put them into the hibernaculum in mid-November. Make sure it stays dry, cool and even temps. Protect from rodents...protect from gases/exhaust fumes etc. Think it out and it should go well. I would expect them to emerge from hibernation around March 1st or so...watch out for the "false Spring" common to your area in February, keep'em cool if you can. OK to inspect them, even to soak if they appear dehydrated. When they emerge, they will feed ravenously and usually start breeding behavior. Good luck, Vic H.

time_lord Oct 15, 2009 02:43 PM

Thanks again.

Describe the soaking process. All the books I have say that the torts should be soaked, but none go into any detail as to how to do it.

Once a day? Five times a day? Once a week?

How long for each soaking?

Do I put them in up to their chins? Lower? Higher?

bradtort Oct 16, 2009 02:06 PM

Lukewarm water.

Just deep enough to cover the legs and allow them to easily raise their heads above the water.

Maybe 15 minutes. Less if they get squirmy. Sometimes they defecate in the water. Then I'll clean it out and put fresh water in and soak them awhile longer.

Once or twice a week. I only do it regularly when they are indoors all of the time. If they are living outdoors, it's usually humid enough they don't need soaking. Plus they would have a shallow (1" deep) water dish to use.

If their outdoor environment is dry and they do not have a water dish, soak them. Or if you keep them indoors most or all of the time.

VICtort Oct 16, 2009 02:13 PM

I agree completely with Brad. Also, they really do defecate in the water often, so be sure change out the water if/when. Dehydration is a very common problem in captive tortoises, and hatchlings are very vulnerable to it, hence frequent soaking is a good idea. When in doubt, give them a soak. I would think in your relatively humid Santa Cruz mountains in your outdoor pen, it is not often needed (but will do no harm...) But when kept indoors, it is important, as most indoor enclosures make it difficult for totoises to choose temp/humidity. Check on your hibernating tortoises now and then, and if they appear too dry, OK to soak them. If you set up the hibernaculum properly, it may not be needed. good luck, Vic H.

VICtort Oct 16, 2009 02:17 PM

a black plastic tub designed for mixing small quantities of concrete, available at Home supply stores makes a great soaking tub. Light, easy to store, easy to clean, durable,reasonable cost, and the rounded corners make it difficult for captives to climb out of. Also great for raising hatchlings in the first few months. Vic H.

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