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does anyone know what this is i have no i idea it seems to be more all over the her head and her left leg in the back is limp

Her head looks like it's just left over skin from shedding,just mist a few times a day...it will come off.Other than that,possibly bite marks,it's not totally clear.Is it housed with other dragons? Does the limp leg have ANY wound,bite mark...look closely.It could be calcium deficiency but that usually affects both hind legs.You need to be sure basking spot is about 105-110,uvb is accessible,and calcium with D3 is given daily.

yeah she house with a bigger dragon so maybe he bite her its only one leg that is hurt the left one and also what about inflamation from a bite that was like 4 months ago its starting to act up or is it maybe that it she got bite again

First thing you need to do, is separate that little dragon from the big dragon's enclosure. Its never a good idea to house dragons of such difference in size.

Second, get the little one to a vet to check that hind leg. Even an old bite can remain infected even if the outer wound is healed over. Abscesses can form under the skin from old injuries, not to mention there may be injuries that are not visible to the eye, such as a broken bone.

As for the splotchy patches on the head, it could be unshed skin or scabbed over injuries. As its not easy to soak the head, try applying a light mineral oil over the affected areas with a Q-tip to see if the skin softens and can be carefully rubbed off after the oil has been on for about 10 minutes or more. Don't get any in the eyes or nostrils.

Let us know what the vet says after you visit him. In the mean time, give us full details of your husbandry...temps etc. Both in the original cage and the new one you set up for your little dragon.
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PHLdyPayne

the temperature are at 100 on the basking side and about 85 on the cool side one branch is about 6 inches from the basking side and one ceramic heater bulb and uvb light and he new one i dont know he temperature right now i just switch her today in the morning.

her temperature are 100 0n the basking side and 85 on the cool side and also but i have on of the bulbs that do everything heat and uvb uva and on the cool side i have a ceramic heater i dont knkow her new temperature i just went to buy the stuff today i put her in there but i had to go work.

Ok, this is confusing.

You give temperatures of 100F warm side and 85F cool side, then say you don't know what the temperatures are?

Also, get rid of the ceramic heat emitter...unless your room temperature drops below 65F at night, you don't need supplementary heating in the evening. Also, heat should come from bright basking lights, to simulate the sun. A dragon won't recognize a non light emitting bulb as where he needs to go for best temperatures.

Building your own cage is cheaper in the long run and not overly difficult to do. As you mentioned you have a friend who is a carpenter, he may be willing to build the cage for you, if you don't have alot of woodworking skills. Vents can be in the back, front or sides, depending on the cage design. Vents on top tend to let more heat escape anyway, which can be a bad thing. My cages have screen doors, so venting isn't a problem. As my apartment stays a pretty constant 70-75F year around, heat loss through the screen doors is not really an issue.
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PHLdyPayne

I was going to mention the same thing about the ceramic heat emitter,get rid of it and keep bright lights for the cage.If the c.heat emitter were hanging in the cage,the dragon could also try to jump up on it and get seriously burned.

The new tank where I switch the one that was getting bit I swith the guy down to it and put both of my girls together but the both girls are about the same size I will put pictures tonight and both of them can't move the same leg its not working just limp and I feed them some carrots and their stool looks like its orange or red may that be a carrot

I would only feed greens not vegetables for now. I don't feed and of my dragons vegetables at all anymore, just a good variety of greens.

Are you sure the live food you are feeding is not too big? Are your basking spot temps. 105-110? Also you should make sure they are not dehydrated. Try dripping water on their noses with an eyedropper and see if they will drink it.

so just green what about pinkies

I hope you're not feeding pinkies to juveniles or sub-adults. Pinkies should only be fed rarely at most and only to adults. I would stick with appropriately sized well gutloaded crickets along with salad.

Is English your second language? I find it difficult to interpret what you are writing and was wondering if that was the case.

Anyway...from what I understand, you have moved your injured dragon in with another dragon about the same size? Or is the male the one who was injured, and not your females?

The whole idea is to get your injured dragon alone in a cage, so it isn't stressed by having healthy more aggressive dragons. What you need to do is set up the injured female in her own tank...it doesn't have to be a huge tank initially, but should be at least 20 gallon long. It can even be a clean or semi clear plastic tote roughly the same dimensions of a 20-40 gallon long tank.

Use plain paper towel as the substrate, put in something to use as a basking spot and a hide in the cool end. Buy a hooded lamp with clamp (you can get these at most hardware stores, just check the wattage maximum rating, you want something that can use a high enough wattage so you can ensure proper temperatures in the cage). Pick up a digital thermometer with probe while you are at the hardware store too. Pick up a 18" or 24" under cabinet florescent light fixture too and a length of 6" or 12" shelving board (you will be mounting the under cabinet fixture to this board and laying it over the top of the tote.) This board should be long enough to rest ontop of the tote as well.

If your house room temperature is on the low side, say below 70F at night, it will be better to buy a section of plywood big enough to completely cover the top of the cage (1/4" plywood is fine, doesn't have to be finished either.) Just mount the under cabinet underneath it. For the basking light, cut a square or circle big enough to set the hooded basking light ontop of the hole. Use either regular aluminum window screening to cover the hole or hardware cloth. This will keep the fixture from falling into the cage...but any sort of brace can be used, even a couple nails, 3 or 4 of them, nailed into the edge of the cut, will hold the light (and not reduce some of the heat, as the screen would).

Last thing to do is stop at your local pet store and buy a UVB florescent bulb of the appropriate length so it will fit into the under cabinet florescent fixture bought at the hardware store. These under cabinet fixtures come with a typical florescent bulb and a cover. Remove the cover and the bulb, replace it with the UVB tube, don't put the cover back on. Otherwise, it will filter out all the UVB the bulb puts out. These bulbs rarely get hot enough to even burn tender human skin, so won't pose a problem to your dragon should it manage to get up high enough to touch the florescent tube.

For the diet you are giving your dragons. Carrots should be used sparingly...and not with every meal. You want greens such as collard greens, dandelion greens, mustard greens, mixed with other wholesome greens, such as endive, escarole, occasionally some kale etc. Grated carrots, chopped green beans, zucchini and other vegetables can be added as a topping, but sparingly. The total 'salad' should be at least 90% dark leafy greens...the rest vegetables, and even then, not every meal. Also, edible flowers such as pansies, hibiscus etc, can be sprinkled on top once in awhile as a treat and for variety.
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PHLdyPayne

Don't forget turnip greens,my dragons love them,for babies I use them over collard greens any day,collards are tough for babies to chew if not grated.Another excellent choice if you have mulberry trees in your area the beardies love the leaves.

I 2nd the turnip greens over collard greens.

i have a hard time with english, just writing it but not speaking it.well this is my set-up at home right now but i want to built some cages. now this is who i switch my little one with.

I still think there is too big a size difference. Think of the animal, it's scary to be smaller and trapped in a small place with someone bigger. Especially in the omnivorous reptile world.

For juveniles or sub adults similar size means

they are all separate at the moment

the reptile store owner got me a extra tank

On Nov. 21st I wrote "That little one is way to small to be in with that bigger one. That's a tragedy waiting to happen."

And you replied "i havent had a problem thye eat alot but and are healthy but they been togerther since small same size and one outgrew the other on"

I don't mean to be harsh but I hate it when animals suffer because people fail to listen to experience. You disregarded my warning earlier and your dragon may have suffered from it. I don't mean to say I told you so but separate them now! it will only get worse.

i did separate them already sorry i didnt listen to someone who know what they doing now i learn a lesson i have a person who has a reptile store he said the same thing but i didnt listen but now i will listen from now on will switching her to a tank by herself help her grow faster

i was wondering if you would mind helping me design some cages cause the tanks are like 100 to 120 dollars just the tanks themselves like today that i bought the new tank and lights it was like 140 dollars

i was wondering if crickets get out of those cages

The front right part of the cage is what I call the cricket corral. It uses shelf liner for substrate. The borders are covered with aluminum tape that crickets cannot climb, but they can hop out. I would say it's 95% effective. My cages are right up against each other so I have to vent from the front. Crickets could get out this way. Some of my others use a heating vent covered with screen on the cool side so I don't need front venting except in the summer. I'll try to post a picture later. Just so you know in the picture below the center top and middle cages have groups of adult females. This is the only dragons that can live together. Even housing adult females together doesn't always work.

I replied to your PM yesterday with the instructions. The only down side of building your own is that you need a fair amount of tools.

we have alot of tools but if i dont i know someone that has to due to that he is a carpenter i think i spell that wrong.i think i would be better if i built my own cause i just bought a cage the light. sand is not a good substrate to use is it or is it good.

I use sand for all my healthy sub adults and adults. But, as I mentioned I feed them in an area without sand. I use children's play sand from Toys R Us. They don't sell it in the north this time of year. You may have to screen it if you get it from the home stores to take out pebbles and debris.

Where would you find a sceen to sceen it. Would menards have one

My local Home Depot and Lowe's [ I don't know if that's a country-wide store ]both sell children's playsand....so does our local gardening center.

You should be able to buy a piece of window screen at any hardware store.

The bigger dragon is bitting the smaller one.

Seperate them.