Reptile & Amphibian Forums

A few days ago I posted a question about substrate and there was general agreement that plain gravel was easiest. Well my powers been out for a few days, Baltimore Gas and Electric said something about a hurricane, and I have a few more questions of something. When you use gravel how high should it be to porevent the roots of the plants from rotting when they sit in the water. Also you can still cover it with some type of live moss right? I don't think it would look right without some kind of ground cover but I guess simplicity takes top priorty for my first dart frog vivarium.

Your gravel layer should be 4" at best. This will allow plenty of room for roots and proper bacterial culturs to aid in the breaking down of waste matter. If I were you I would stick with aroids as your terrestrial plants as the roots will go down into the water table and help remove the nitrogen from the water that has drained off. Also, you'll need to slope the gravel at one end so that it ends in a pool that has only 1 layer of gravel. This will expose some of the water to oxygen and allow evaporation. This pool will also allow access to the water should you need to remove it (turkey baster works goood for smaller tanks). The water should be changed out 2 or 3 times a month for several months. If everything works out ptoperly, then the water will be naturally cleaned by evaporation and plants. If your vivarium is adequately ventilated then you should be ok. As for the ground cover, I tend to use long fiber sphagnum moss then I top this with live pillow moss. Sometimes I'll just cover the gravel with oak and magnolia leaves. Frogs seem to prefer the leaf litter better...I guess it gives them a feeling of security, knowing they can quickly duck under a leaf if in danger. I hope this helps...it's just my $0.02.
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Updated list as of: 9/17/03
2.2.6 D. azureus
1.2.24 D. ventrimaculatus 'yellow' (16 tads in the water)
1.1 D. tinctorius 'cobalt' (one subadult)
0.0.3 D. tinctorius 'patricia'
1.1 D. auratus 'blue'
0.0.5 D. auratus 'green/black'
0.2 P. aurotaenia
0.0.10 D auratus 'green/bronze' (soon)
0.0.2 D. imitator 'Alex Sens line' (soon)
0.0.2 D. reticulatus (soon)

I'm sorry that I didn't get in on the earlier conversation about the "best" substrate, but I have to add that I have been VERY happy with using a false bottom system and coconut husk chips mixed with activated charcoal (horticultural type) as a substrate. The false bottom allows easy setup of a circulating pump for a waterfall or other water feature which increases humidity more than a standing pool, allows for better oxygenation of the water for nitrate breakdown, and discourages stagnation which leads to a foul smell (my terrarium smells very fresh and clean all the time).

In addition, this substrate is not heavy at all (unlike gravel), is airy enough to place bromeliads in (they thrive in this stuff), and an ideal substrate for orchids. In addition, I've found that java moss and club mosses grow very well on this substrate, but have only had limited success with pillow moss. In addition, it is really inexpensive to buy (I bought enough to build five 50 gallon terrariums, along with a coco fiber mat for about $25 at www.rolanka.com. You just have to be sure to soak it and drain it well (3-5 times at least) before using it.

Okay, I'll get off of my soapbox now. Thanks for listening.
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Homer W. Faucett III, esq.
Purveyor of Trivialities and Fine Nonsense

I caution you against using charcoal in your substrate. Charcoal acts like a sponge and removes nitrogen/ammonia and other waste products. But what happens when the charcoal has had enough? It leaches this back out, in a concentrated form which is potentially dangerous to the inhabitants of the vivarium. Unless you take joy in tearing the tank down, to change out the substrate 2 or 3 times a year, don;t use charcoal. It can be more of a hinderance than a help, at best.

-Bill
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Updated list as of: 9/17/03
2.2.6 D. azureus
1.2.24 D. ventrimaculatus 'yellow' (16 tads in the water)
1.1 D. tinctorius 'cobalt' (one subadult)
0.0.3 D. tinctorius 'patricia'
1.1 D. auratus 'blue'
0.0.5 D. auratus 'green/black'
0.2 P. aurotaenia
0.0.10 D auratus 'green/bronze' (very soon)
0.0.3 D. imitator 'Alex Sens line' (2 weeks)
0.0.2 D. reticulatus (soon)

That's something I have never heard before. Interesting thought.
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Homer W. Faucett III, esq.
Purveyor of Trivialities and Fine Nonsense