Ok- I will try to answer your many questions:
Q: I've been contemplating getting a pair of prehensile tailed skinks. Is there any reason not go keep them?
A: If you can afford the animals, reasearch their needs and set up their home before you buy, build adequate enclosures, time and $ commitment to keep them healthy, and realize that these are becoming increasingly rare in the wild due to habitat destruction and pet trade- go for it. We need more dedicated people keeping and breeding these unique animals.
Q:I know that the Soloman Islands have been in chaos lately, so there has been some imports. I've been looking for a long time and have not seen captive bred individuals. I know that they have a very long gestation period with usually one baby so I understand that. Is there a good number of people out there who are successfully breeding them?
A: If you are patient and keep looking, you will find the captive bred animals- but yes they are few and far between. If you have a healthy and compatible pair that are actually getting the right cues to breed (? and controversy on what these are) you can expect to get one baby, maybe two if really lucky and you have twins- a year. The gestation is around 7 or 8 months. I know of a few people with breeding groups or pairs, but there is no mass production happening like with beardeds.
Q:I plan on housing a pair in a bookcase. I'd just have to do some modifications and add doors to them. I don't see any other housing options. Reptariums don't retain the humidity needed. I'm not handy enough to build my own melamine enclosure.
A: Can't comment on the bookcase idea, other than the average bookcase is not deep enough. Bigger cages are better, mine are about 5' tall. 3' wide and 2' deep. You need to balance humidity and ventilation. Remember these are fairly big/heavy animals (large for a skink) an adult male will weigh around 400gm, females are usually larger. My big female varies from 750 to 1000gm depending on her gravid state.
Q: Is there anything I should be aware of? How many times do they go to the bedroom a day. I plan on having one shelf and a
large ficus tree for climbing. Is there a better alternative? As for food, I prepare food for my bearded dragons, so that will not
be an issue. In my spare time, I breed bearded dragons, seahorses, and chinchillas, so I'm aware of the time commitment.
A: Do you mean the bathroom? Each of my individuals defecates about every other to every third day. Urination really seems to vary. I would nix the ficus as the primary climbing item- again the adults are heavy bodied and will shred the thin trunk and branches of a ficus. They will also eat the ficus- which is not bad for them, but the ficus will die and be ugly. Use THICK climbing branches- you can get sand blasted grape vine trunk, cork rounds and flats, very heavy gauge rope, artificial vine, thick dried mulberry or apple branches. Multiple shelves with hides should be available, so they can pick the one with the temperature they prefer. Food prep will take longer than the average bearded greens meal- these guys are basically entirely herbivorous, so you have to pay alot more attention to variety, balance and quality. N
Q:Is there anything extremely difficult about them? I know they have claws, so are they animals that you can handle? Or are
they better off as a display?
A: Yes, they have sharp claws (the same as your bearded, but larger), but the big difference is they have a VERY strong grip- they are tree dwellers- and have evolved very strong gripping legs/feet/curved claws. Mine are handled periodically, but for long periods of time. I have them to propogate them, and enjoy watching them- but I have made little effort to 'tame' them, as I want baby PTS, not cuddly pets.
Q:What does one do to keep the humidity up? Also, if I were to buy a pair of imports, what diseases and/or parasites should they be checked for?
A: Humidity should be 60% or higher- basically as high as you can get it without having major mould issues. You can do this with live plants, large soaking bowls, multiple mistings, live in a humid place, have automatic misters or humidifiers. I like an ultrasonic humidifier hooked to a humidistat. Bring your new imports to a qualified vet along with a fresh fecal sample from each- they will check for internal protozoal and worm type parasites. You and the vet can check for external parasites (ticks/mites). Check for wounds/bites incurred during overcrowded shipping and storage. Dehydration and emaciation may also be a problem in a recent import (as well as improperly kept longer term captives).
Q:Lastly could anyone recommend some good books and/or caresheets for them? Thanks for your guys' time..
A: Two books you can get are "the general care and maintenance of Prehensile-tailed skinks" by P Vosjoli
and "prehensile-tailed skinks' by coborn. The coborn book has nice photos, but is the lesser of the two books for reference.
Jess B
