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Breeding Help

JMo May 05, 2010 07:08 AM

Well it finally happened; a successful lock! This week I observed two locks - two different females, same male. Before I got my male this year, last year that I was putting two females together and needless to say - no luck. I guess mistakes can be made in sexing these guys?

Anyway - I would be appreciative if I can get some information on a probable time line - what should I do, what can I expect and when? Observed lock dates were 5/2 and 5/4, should I continue to put the male with the females?

Any informaion and advice is most welcomed.

Thanks,
Jim

Replies (3)

DMong May 05, 2010 10:24 AM

All it takes many times is only one breeding, but you can put them together every couple of days until the female refuses any more his advances. This is a good sign that the female has successfully fertilized eggs. She will become much more swollen and heavy in the latter half of her body with the developing eggs.

In around a month or so, she will begin her "pre-lay" shed, and around 6 to 10 days after she sheds, she will lay the eggs. Make sure you put a suitable lay box of slightly moisten sphagnum moss in a plastic shoe box at the time of her shedding, so she can check it out and become familiar with finding a suitable nesting site.

You do NOT want to wait to do this until she is frantically searching for a good place to deposit her eggs. This can cause a lot of undue stress, and lead to complications with laying the eggs. If you observe her closely, you will see her going in and out of the nesting box from time to time checking things out, and about one to two days before she actually lays, she will simply stay inside the box until the eggs are laid.

When all the eggs are laid, mark the top side of each loose egg so it will always be correctly oriented from now on while they incubate. You never want the eggs to be turned, or rolled once they begin to develop with an embryo inside, or they can easily die.

put them in a shoebox with a few small holes for air circulation, with very SLIGHTLY moistened vermiculite(not wet), about a 1:1 ratio of water to vermuculite by weight, and mix thoroughly. You want the vermiculite to JUST be moist enough to barely clump together when squeezed, not to where excess water drips out, or it is far too wet, and the eggs will swell(and even rupture) and also ruin the eggs. Make ABSOLUTELY SURE you do NOT use vermiculite with fertilizer additives on the bag label, such as Miracle-Gro!.

Put a slight dimple in the medium to "cradle" the eggs to where loose eggs are still about 3/4th exposed. Eggs that are stuck together will be fine if they are loosely nestled in the medium, you don't want these buried deep either, and the entire clump of eggs will absorb the moisture from the vermiculite like a songe does.

Incubate at approx. 80 to 81 degrees so there is a slight buffer there if temps should climb a couple degrees accidentally for whatever reason, this way they stay well within a safe temp zone. It is far better that they get a bit cooler, than too get too warm. The "target" temp of 80 to 81 is perfect for this.

Around 60 days later if all goes well, the young will begin to hatch.

~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

my website -serpentinespecialties.webs.com

JMo May 05, 2010 12:57 PM

Doug - thanks so much for the narrative - it clears up some time line issues I was unclear about. Hopefully I'll be able to post some photos when the time comes.

Thanks again,
Jim

DMong May 07, 2010 12:23 AM

.
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

my website -serpentinespecialties.webs.com

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