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I have a couple questions regarding thermoregulation and respitory infections. I have an 8 foot male columbian redtail that is heavy boddied and eats very regularly and has been very healthy. His enclosure is a display case style 5' long 2' wide and 5' tall. I created differnent tempature zones in the cage and stratisfied space by adding a shelf on one side hide box on other and a basking branch. I use two differnet wattage red heat lamps on each end. The ambient temp is 80-82 and hot spot is 93-95. Their is a cool spot under the shelf where the water tub is at. The past few days my boa spent soaking in the tub. After this period I noticed that he is weezing and displaying a yawning behavior. Is it possible he did not self regulate his temp and got to cool? Should I rearange the cage design so their is no area under 80? Will he be able to overcome this congestion on his own with a higher body temp? Is the use of tetracycline in the water still considered an effective treatment or is their a better home remedy? At what point should I seek a vetrinarian for an injectable antibiotic? Any feedback on this situation would be greatly appreciated.

I don't allow my temps to drop below 80 in my snake room . Also , be sure to pay attention to your humidity levels - low humidity also contributes to RI's
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Snake room janitor

What would you say is a sufficient humidity reading? Thanks for the info.

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Snake room janitor

I would appreciate anymore feedback on this subject. Thanks

Yes humidity is a huge contributing factor with R.I. Although we
as keeper in some cases might be over looking another
large factor. That would be circulation/convection of
air within our enclosures. Ensuring ample fresh air
enters and air laden with minute(small) particles
of mold dust,etc . . . escape !

So both circulation and humidty will knock those particles out
of the enclosures air cycle.

Creating fresh air and environment

I agree with Dave Morgan 60% humidity or higher are what you
should aim for in your Boas enclosure.

Many of my Boas like a cooler end for thermo regulation (78*) so its
hard for me to preach stead fast ambient temps.

Most people shoot for 84* ambient temps with 92*-96* hot spot

In several enclosures those are my ambient temps but my hot spot
can be slightly hotter that's for youngsters and males.

Fot adult fems some of them seem to like cooler spots and then
hotter hot spots to thermoregulate to.

I don't know if the way I'm doing it is right or wrong but
appears to be working health wise maybe not so
much breeding wise "IDK" but health wise.

I've used heat lamps( different types of light bulbs) myself in
the past. They create Good heat but very bad for humidity
levels. They dry out the air humidity levels.

This leads to stale dry air with minute(small)particles in it.

This all can be a contributing factor to some R.I. I believe
among other things in other cases, like stress or
really dirty unclean enclosure.

You might want to consider using Radiant heat Panels. I haven't
tried them personally but I'm considering switching many of my
cages to this style of heat. Many people have great things
to say about RHP.

As far as treating your Boa for R.I. that's a tough call with
out me actually seeing it in person.

Proper Diagnosis is critical !

If its only at a very beginning stage of R.I. Heat and humidity
could whip it, if its already even a slightly involved R.I.
most times medication will be needed.

People have had a lot of success with tylan/Tylosin (200 mg/mL)
and also I've had great success with LA200(Liquimyacin).
Both can be found at cattle feed or farm equipment type
stores over the counter.

If you are inexperienced with diagnosing R.I. I can't recommend
self treating a Boa for R.I.

You would be better seeking an experienced Exotics Herp Vet,the
Vet must be a specialized Exotics Vet. Regular Vets may
try to treat your Boa but they are uneducated in
Exotics medicine and many times do very little
to help your Boa and you.

Diagnosis:
If your Boa is still eating well, there is no visible mucous
bubbling out of his nose or if you look in his mouth
it is not full of mucous. In other words he shouldn't
have alot of extra spit in his mouth.
He's in good shape.

If you see him resting with his head more vertical, maybe against
the side of the enclosure or the edge of the water dish
or a branch trying to elevate his nose to
a more vertical position.

This is often an indication of early onset R.I. or full R.I.

Those tips are the best I can think of for you right now.

. . . Lar M
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Boas By Klevitz

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Thank you this was all good info I appreciate the feedback. It may take me some trial and error to get the humidity up. I agree the heatlamps realy dry the enclosure out. This is also made worse by the fact that my cage is very well ventilated. I obviously dont want to change that so that I continue to have clean fresh air. Right now I am sitting at about 45% so got a little way to go. I think I'll start with frequent misting with warm water in the cage and on the bark substrate I'm using. I need to start thinking of a little better or low maintence plan. I may try using an under the tank heater under the cat litter box I use for a water tub. That may cause enough evaporation to up the humidity as well as keeping that area a bit warmer to avoid him getting in their and getting cold while soaking. Regardless I appreciate the info hopefully his symptoms will clear quickly if not I will work on treatment as well.

Actually I wanted to touch on the ventilation part. You really do
not want huge ventilated screened spots or big holes.

Nice strategically placed holes can create perfect convection draft.

In a good sized tub for instance I like to use several(8-12) 1/4 inch
holes at about a 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the tub
on the cool end of the tub.

Then I like to put just a few holes high up almost to the top at
the Hot end and create a cross convection

I might even have that process backwards from how its supposed
to work but I think I've thought it threw properly ha ha

So you probably have a few too many open ventilation spots if
I'm reading correctly into what you're saying.

Try covering a few of those ventilation areas so you can create
a bit of a cross draft but not allow too much
heat and humidity to escape.

Its probably a trial and error balance act in your display cage
you'll have to dink with it.

My guess is at this time your Boa is dried out and has wheezy dry
lungs, that's just a guess.

Hope I haven't confused you with this post

. . . Lar M
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Boas By Klevitz

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