Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I recently aquired a bull snake, and I'm trying to get some information on the care of the snake.

I'm not sure of the age, but its a about 5 ft long.

How many mice should it be fed? It ate 2 mice as if it were eatting french fries, and seemed to want more (it was VERY active), which from the time leading up to feeding, it was very nervous and scared. I had fed the mice to it live, as this is how the pet shop said to give it to him. As I was dropping in the second mouse, the snake snatched it right from my hand.

I do know he just shredded this week, and I think they said durning that time they don't eat, so that might be why it was so hungry. But how do i know when it had enough? Will they gorge and just eat and eat, or will it stop when its full?

Also, how big of a mouse can it take? Should I be feeding it rats (they are much bigger though?)

Also the cage. Its a 45 gallon long tank, that has a heating rock in it (cord was removed, not functional), some fake plants and a big dog food dish. Is this enclosure big enough for it? Just seems like it should be in something bigger? I've seen mention of people buying the storage bins from wal-mart? Aren't those opaque? Can this type of snake live comfortably in that type of enclosure?

Also, I'm using a heating lamp.. I see mention of using a heating pad instead placed underneath the enclosure. Is there a way to regulate the temperature automatically, (like a themostate that will turn it on and off) or is it all done manually and via timers that will shutoff the heating devices?

Any books or websites that will be able to help me care for the bull snake properly?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

Jayson

Jayson,
Congrats on your new snake! I've had a pair of bulls for several years . Some reflections on your post...
1. It's a good idea to take a new adult snake to a herp vet to be checked out for parasites, etc..
2. Many times pet shop herps are very hungry. As a rule of thumb, feed food items which are no larger than the widest part of your snake. A meal should consist of one or two appropriately sized food items which make a small visible lump in the belly of the snake.
3. My bulls are about as long as yours. They each eat one small frozen thawed rat once every seven days. They are growing nicely, although they always act like they are starving--they LOVE to eat! (Sometimes if I overthaw food items for my other colubrids, they may get an extra rat pup). Pits are notorious for being able to eat large quantities of rodents. Yes, it is possible to end up with an obese bull snake.
4. Get yours eating frozen/thawed rodents. Not only does this remove the possibility of your snake being bitten by a terrified rodent which can lead to infection and scarring, but freezing kills any internal parasites which might infect your snake. There are many sources for frozen rodents on line. Check under the commercial sites here on KS.
5. Your tank size seems okay. For ease of sanitation, I keep my furnishings simple. Aspen substrate, water bowl, one corkbark slab for a hide, and one upside down plastic dishpan with a hole in the top for the other hide. I use a product called quatricide to sanitize my tanks, although a 10% bleach/water solution sprayed on after washing with dish detergent, then thoroughly rinsed, also works well. Good husbandry leads to good health in your reptile. The water bowl also needs to be washed and sanitized weekly.
6. I prefer using a UTH for belly warmth to aid in digestion. I regulate them with rheostats and monitor the temps with thermometers in both the warm and cool ends of the tanks.The ambient temp in my herp room is about 82 degrees.

Hopefully this info will get you started with good husbandry. Look for caresheets on breeder's sites. Bulls are awesome (and I warn you, addictive). Best of luck with your new scaly friend!
Regards,
althea