Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.

Click here to visit Classifieds
Click for 65% off Shipping with Reptiles 2 You

Hognose incubation medium

giantkeeper May 27, 2010 10:30 AM

Hi guys, I really hate asking questions on a public forum but I need a hand.

I have my first clutch EVER of hognose eggs in the small incubator right now. Ive hatched almost 600 leopard geckos in the past and have 50+ blood python eggs in my big incubator right now.

Because the incubation medium (water/perlite) ratio is different between the leos and blood pythons I figure it must be for hognose too.

What is your ratio of water to media?

1:1 or less, or more?

My leo egg set up contained VERY LITTLE water and it was just enough to allow the perlite to compact.

My blood python eggs are set up with a 5:3 (perlite:water) set up.

I'd love to hear what you guys have to say, and thanks for the contributions!
-----
Chris & Alliey
www.bloodyleopard.com
E-mail Us

Replies (15)

kingsnake1 May 27, 2010 10:44 AM

A 1:1 ratio by weight is fine. It should be damp, not wet. Take a handful and squeeze it....if water drips out, it is too wet. If it clumps together without dripping, you're good. After I have my ratio right, I sprinkle a little dry vermiculite or perlite over the top to give the eggs a dry bed to sit on. You get the humidity, but the eggs are dry. Good luck!
-----
Greg Jackson

kingsnake1 May 27, 2010 10:47 AM

My method is used with vermiculite, the perlite doesn't clump like that, but the ratio should be the same.
-----
Greg Jackson

Toaddiggers May 27, 2010 11:05 AM

Chris, I have used the 1.1 ratio with good results. However there is now a system being sold that uses no medium at all. I have not tried the system myself, but it is an exciting idea.

Wendell

giantkeeper May 27, 2010 11:27 AM

Thanks guys.

I use a hybrid version of the new method for my bloods. Instead of suspended over the water I use perlite in the mixture to keep the water from splashing if/when you have to move the eggs.
-----
Chris & Alliey
www.bloodyleopard.com
E-mail Us

krhodes May 27, 2010 12:18 PM

Here is my method.
When I started 12 years ago, I used wet vermiculite 1:1 volume. I did not have any issues as long as the eggs had whitened completly before setting in vermiculite. If I put them in while clear or yellow/pink I lost those.
In 2001-2002, I went to perlite 1:1 weight with fantastic success.
Willing to try some new stuff, from 2003-2006, I began to mix vermiculite with perlite and use much less water. Results were good there. I added small amounts of water until microbubbles would form against one side of the container.
For the 2007-2008 season I tried peat moss as the substrate but found that as it sat, it heated slightly above the temps I was going for. It may be due to the fact that some organic substrates actually decompose and create heat in the process. I did not like the results with my hognose eggs. It was however excellent for the box and mud turtle eggs I was incubating.
This year I used perlite exclusively and am pleased with the way things are going. I buy the bagged stuff at WM sunset brand with the ziploc type closer. When put into the container I do not add water but keep it as moist as it is in the bag. If the bag had a hole in it I would have to add moisture.
I only add a bit of water as necessary as conditions appear dry.

I have not tried hatchrite. Seems a lot like perlite.

I know of one breeder that hatched an entire clutch on calcisand.
Another several years back that hatched some in a tuna can, dry, that was placed into another large sealed container filled with wet mud.

Seems that as long as there is consistency, you are good.

KR
-----
Thank you,
Kevin Rhodes
http://www.freewebs.com/spreptile/index.htm
http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc314/lifesciences/?action=view¤t=09-09hognose001.jpg

motorhead May 27, 2010 08:36 PM

Hello All

I have always used vermiculite as my choice of incubation substrate and have always went with 82 degrees. I found that a 1.1 mixs works and 2.1 (two parts vermiculite one part water) works best, but in both cases I would have to rehydrate the mix at 30 days or so. Then I found the new SIM container at the 2009 Daytona show and the vender gave me one to try. I used a 1.1 mix with no issue at all. I hatched out a clutch in 49 days with no rehydrating . To Kevin's point, the SIM container keeps the eggs completely off the substrate so the eggs with yellow /clear/pink eggs do much much better. I like them so much i ordered 10 more containers for next season.

Hope this helps

Brent

-----
Brent Bumgardner
bwbumgardner@aol.com
703.431.1776
Superconda Website

GregBennett May 27, 2010 01:49 PM

I'm using a 2:1 or so ratio by weight this year with vermiculite. I use 400 grams of vermiculite and 250 grams of water. I mix and squeeze that around in my hands to get the water distributed in the vermiculite good.

All of my eggs where white before I put them in the above incubation medium.

I'm incubating them at 82 degrees.

This is my first real year breeding hognose but so far all of my eggs are looking great.
-----

Greg Bennett - Western Hognose Morphs | Boa Morphs
520.Hognose (520.464.6673) - http://www.bennettreptiles.com

giantkeeper May 27, 2010 03:28 PM

Really great stuff guys!

I went ahead and went with a slightly less wet set up (essentially 1:1). I'm also using a no contact method similar to my blood python eggs. Using egg crate to suspend the eggs above the incubation media.

I'll let you know how things work.

Thanks again for the great feedback!
-----
Chris & Alliey
www.bloodyleopard.com
E-mail Us

Gregg_M_Madden May 27, 2010 04:24 PM

Chris,
I ditched the substrate method years ago... That is how my partner and I came up with the SIM incubation container...

I know of atleast one hog breeder that used the SIM container with really great results... Maybe he will be kind enough to get in on this thread with a bit of info...

Whats great about the SIM container is that you do not need to worry much about water to substrate ratios... The eggs are not getting their moisture from a damp substrate... They are getting it directly from the air... The eggs stay dry during incubation but are still taking on the moisture they need from the air chamber and not what is being forced on them in a damp substrate... So the substrate can be a bit more moist without fear of killing your eggs...

It also allows embryos to develop faster due to better oxygen intake... The egg expells carbon dioxide but drops away from the egg instead of surrounding it... The result is well developed hatchlings in a shorter time span...

giantkeeper May 27, 2010 04:54 PM

Thanks Gregg, I like that design a lot.

I've only just recently started using this method, and my first eggs setup on it are due to hatch today.
-----
Chris & Alliey
www.bloodyleopard.com
E-mail Us

krhodes May 27, 2010 05:22 PM

OK Gregg,
I'm excited that you guys have come up with a new concept/name,etc.
So how many days and at what temps for hogs? I'm thinking 80-84 degree range.
-----
Thank you,
Kevin Rhodes
http://www.freewebs.com/spreptile/index.htm
http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc314/lifesciences/?action=view¤t=09-09hognose001.jpg

Gregg_M_Madden May 27, 2010 05:30 PM

Hey Kevin,
I have not personally hatched hogs on the SIM yet... We have hatched a variety of geckos and dwarf varanids... To give you an idea, Varanus tristus hatch at 99 days in the SIM instead of 120 in perlite... We have done numerous side by side testings...

Like I said, I hope the breeder who actually did hatch hog on the container will add to this thread...

giantkeeper May 27, 2010 05:37 PM

I remember Brent saying he was using it....would love to hear the feedback as well!
-----
Chris & Alliey
www.bloodyleopard.com
E-mail Us

ademar May 27, 2010 07:22 PM

I was working in LivingArtGeckos where we have something around 2000 geckos per year and I use the same method to incubate hognose snake eggs as in leopard geckos. I incubate in 27,5 C degrees - 55-56 days of incubation. Something around 1:8/7 - water/vermiculit. Hognose snakes lives in dry climate, so incubation must be the same. I always say, it`s better if there is to dry rather than to wet When it`s to dry You can always do something. Eggs in to wet conditions have no chance to survive

Best regards
Grzegorz
HOGNOSE LIMITED

JTColubrids May 27, 2010 07:36 PM

Brent will hopefully comment but he has a SWEEEEEEEEET picture of his SIM Incubation Container with supers and condas hatching out on his site superconda.com if you click on available and then 2010 projected offspring and then scroll to the bottom

Site Tools