Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi all,

I was wondering if someone could briefly explain how they prepare their snakes for brumation--or refer me to a good online source. I want to keep water snakes, but I am going to be in an apartment and it might be difficult for me to cool them down effectively in there. I was wondering how most people cool down their snakes in preparation for artificial brumation? Also, what wine cooler is the best to buy?

Thanks!

Jeff

Good morning.....

artificial brumation isnt always the easiest task to accomplish for some depending on living arangements or general weather where one lives. Cessation of feeding is paramount prior to the cooling process, and allow the animals to "empty" their gut before doing so. A gradual temp drop is best over a several week period and then, depending on the snakes in question (assuming we're talking about non-boid/python species) a mean temp of about 55F utilized. Non-fluctuation of temperature during an artificial brumation is important (although a slight differential of a couple degrees /- isnt necessatrily harmful). An 8 - 12 week cooling is optimal, although some species may require a slightly longer stint in the cool.

Brumation preparation can be done in so many ways. From cooling a room with an air conditioner for some that live in hotter areas, to cracking a window open during the winter months (for some that are in colder areas), to a whole variety of manner to adequately provide a cooling period can be done. As for wine coolers, which I've adapted over the last year, my recommendation would be a Vinotemp. Although slightly more expensive, it's worth it. (I'm a big believer in the old adage "you get what you pay for".) Some folks have modified refrigerators, etc, but for someone who doesnt trust their electrical handywork, such as myself, I went with the more expensive means to maintain stability in holding cool temps for a several month stretch. My advice is to also be careful what model is obtained, as some wine coolers have a "dual temp zone" whereby the inside top of the wine cooler is a higher temperature and a lower temp in the inside bottom. There is also the option of endeavoring to find a second-hand wine cooler either via the internet or a local liquor store that may be throwing one away. Some have gotten nice finds that way at a fraction of the cost (of course there's always the concern of a used model that is worn and potential wear 'n' tear issues may arise leading to repair costs).

Hope this helps a bit....
-----
Jerry Kruse
www.zonatas.com

And God said, "Let there be zonata subspecies for all to ponder..."

First off, hibernation or brumation IS NOT REQUIRED for the health and reproduction of reptiles. Hibernation/brumation is a behavior to AVOID/SURVIVE adverse/harsh conditions.

What is required is a range of temps. During most of the year, snakes work for cool temps to hot. Not hot to cool. That is, they remain cool and only use heat to perform certain metabolic tasks, like shedding the skin, digesting large prey items, healing wounds, development of the immune system, growth, etc etc.

Additional heat is required for snakes to reach full physical activity, like moving quickly. If they cannot move quickly, they choose to move slowly and they can when very cold. In these cases, they choose to move under cover as they are not fast enough to escape when in the open. ALso in this case, reptiles utilize their cryptic abilities instead of their speed or quickness. Most snakes use a "hot" area/spot of aprox 100F but some lizards and some snakes will use hot spots of 150F or more. Like varanids.

OK, back to your question. All you need is a temp range so the animals can be active(heat) and rest/conserve(cool) 65F to 75F is are suitable cool temps, of course, 55F is very good.

So all you need are normal room temps to allow your snakes a decent range of temps.

A couple times, I lived in an second story apartment could not keep the apartment cool. So I bought a closet door and installed a tiny room air conditioner on the door, hung it on a large walk in closet. Set it on a thermostat at 65F and it worked great. A small room will work too.

Of course, you can set the air conditioner at a lower temp and hibernate/brumate them as well. Its your choice.

ALso, I have bred all manner of snakes for a very long time and was one of the pioneers of HIBERNATION/BRUMATION, and I have to say. Its handy to give us keepers a rest, but it surely is not required or even a good thing for snakes. Let me explain, I said, or even a good thing, that means it does take some understanding and experience when brumating snakes, so inexperienced can make mistakes. Good luck

Thanks for the replies guys! Very informative. So why have I been reading that it is necessary for the snakes to brumate to produce hormones for breeding? And what if the snakes stop feeding on their own? I've heard that happens too.

By the way, I've been reading Rossi's North American Snake book.

I have no idea what they write what they do. Consider, 9/10s of the worlds snake species live where there is no to little winter. By far the majority of species occur between the tropic a cancer and the tropic of capricorn.

Including many many of the kingsnake species that people think they brumate.

Personally, I produced many of the morphs on this forum and did so without hibernation.

As I mentioned, if you supply a range of temps, the snakes will do the rest.

I also do field work with snakes, some individuals feed all winter, some only feed for two months a year. They feed when they need to. Many of the snakes we work with, crawl around at temps from the low 40's on up. So temps of 55F are middle of the road, its not brumating.

You have folks on this forum that do both, like, Bluerosy, his snakes feed all year. And J Kruse who brumates his animals, Both do a great job.

The point is, you asked how to deal with a certain situation. And I offered you solutions you can choose from. Good luck