Reptile & Amphibian Forums

My bearded dragon has a respiratory infection. The vet said that it may be because the humidty is too high in his tank. He also said that the UVB light has to be changed every 3 months. In the past I was told to change it every 6-12 months. Which one is it? I want to keep his environment safe and healthy for him. Thanks!

It would be good to list what your set-up is like...including what type of lights [ brand and name] you use. It could be that an all-around too high temp. caused the RI. Do you spray the cage excessively ? Because I spray mine dragons every day with no problems [ some people will say that could be the cause, but I have done so for 16 years and 1000,s of babies with NO RI's and it does NOT cause unless you are possibly soaking the cage] What are the temps. and cage size ? Please list that as well, it's all very important. There are no uvb bulbs that need to be changed that often. Every 6 months is usually the soonest.

Thank you for your response. I will find out what brand of lights I am using. I do know that we struggle to keep the temp hot enough in his tank. He is in a 45 breeder glass tank. I know that we use 2 ceramic heaters and a 100 watt basking bulb, along with his UVB 10 lamp. Right now we have the cool side at around 83 and the hot side in the mid 90s. The humidity is down to 35% now. We bought a humidity monitor, and initially the humidity was around 50%. The problem is that we had to take his water dish out to get the humidity down. Any suggestions as to where I can buy a water dish that would be appropriate for him. Don't they need to be able to get into the water, or is that information incorrect? Thanks again for your help! I will get the other information you requested (brands) and post it.

The basking lamp is Zoo Med and the UVB is a Reptisun 10. I don't know what brand the ceramic heaters are, but I bought them at Petco.

What is the substrate? Where do you live? What device are you using to measuring humidity and temperatures in the tank? UVB producing bulbs are not the problem here.

The substrate is reptile carpet. We live in the Seattle area. I am using a Petco Stick on humidity meter (not digital).

Hi Evie,

It is possible that your tank gets too humid for a dragon. Seattle is very moist year round and your house probably holds a good amount of humidity. My house is usually between 20-30% RH during the year(I live in the midwest). Yours might be 50% or greater year round. I have digital temp/humidity gauges in nearly every room to monitor the changes, and to learn what is average.

I would suggest going to walmart or somewhere similar and buy a couple of digital temp/humidity gauges, they are less than $10 each. Put one in the room where you keep dragon. This way you can monitor and keep record of temps and humidity of just the room itself.

Also, more important get rid of the dial type temp/humidity gauges, they are notoriously inaccurate. Your cage needs two digital temp/humidity gauges, one on the hot side and one on the cooler end. And you will need an infrared temp gun, IMO the only way to take an accurate surface temp. A great temp gradient is 115-130 degree surface temp hotspot, and 70-80 on the cool end.

Without the above you cannot truly know what kind of environment is provided for dragon, it's just guessing.

As for care when giving baytril, BDlvr is right a pro-biotic is needed like acidophilus or nutri-bac to keep them going. Acidophilus is just a good product anyway.

A picture of the cage set-up would really help too!

Adult Bearded Dragons should have a basking spot surface temperature of 105-110. Definately no higher in an enclosure of your size. An infrared temp. gun is always a good idea. Probiotics are not needed when using an injected antibiotic.

Thanks for all of the information. How would I get him a probiotic? Mix his Critical Care using acidopholis milk instead of water maybe? Sorry but I'm clueless here. I will work on getting the digital humidity guage, and also a picture of the tank setup.

Here's 2 sources for the probiotic. Interesting the name of the milk is similar. The dairy part wouldn't be good though.

http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Meds.html

http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=227

Why are you feeding him critical care?

Please give more information together in one post. With a lot of post it's very difficult to keep track of all the information regarding your dragon.

We are talking about a 5 year adult correct?
Have you had him since he was a baby?
Has he brumated in the past?
He is in a 40 Breeder which is 3' x 18" x 18" tall?
He occasionally seems to gasp for air?
What is his length and weight?
What are you feeding him and how often?
Are you supplementing his food and with what and how often?
Has your vet listened to his lungs?
How many more injections of Baytril is he supposed to get?
What was the initial reason you took him to the vet?
What caused you to decide to syringe feed him?

Hanging the thermometer probe in the air will give you the ambient temp. AS LONG AS IT IS NOT IN THE LIGHT BEAM. Otherwise is is it's own basking spot and it will not be the air temp. measurement but the surface of the probe temp.

You can lay the probe in the center of the basking light to get a basking spot temp. it is as accurate as a temp. gun but just takes a little more time to get an accurate reading.

I have some 40 Breeder tanks and they can be difficult to get the temps high enough. I use Zoo Med Combo hoods on them for UVB fluorescents and background heat using standard household bulbs. Then I use a spot bulb to create a basking spot. I'll try to post a picture of one when i get home. The combo hood keeps some of the heat from just rising out of the screen.

I don't recommend syringe feeding unless the animal is unable to eat on their own. It is often normal for BD's to have little or no appetite at times and that is why a weight scale is so useful.

Thanks to everyone for the help, information, and suggestions. BDlvr, I will send you the measurements, as well as my beardie's weight and height late this afternoon after his vet appointment. Meanwhile to answer your questions, yes he is a 5 year old adult. I have had him since he was a baby. I don't think he has brumated in the past. The only other time he acted like he is acting was when he got really sick (intestinal infection) about 2 years ago. Yes he does what seems like gasping for air sometimes. The sound that he makes right afterward resembles a cough. His breathing is definitely not a steady, constant breathing (I know that breathing is a voluntary thins with beardies right?, but not sure if this is normal or not.

I feed normally feed him the only thing that he will actually eat - mealworms. He will very occasionally eat a couple of crickets, but he absolutely refuses any greens and has refused them his whole life. I offer him mealworms daily, but he doesn't always eat them. I dust them with calcium, but replace the calcium around every 7-10 days with a powdered vitamin supplement.

Yes, the vet did listen to his lungs. I will ask him to review his findings with me today at our appointment (I wasn't there for the first appointment). He has 3 more injections of Baytril. I originally took him to the vet for the same reasons I started syringe feeding him. He quit eating and drinking and became visibly dehydrated and thinner. These things combined with his seemingly strange breathing, and the goopy eyes (which will crust over) and his lethargy all made me think he was sick.

I had a weight scale, but it quit working. I will have to buy another one. I never thought of brumation as a possible cause for his lack of appetite. Thanks again. I will send his weight, height, and his tank dimensions this afternoon.

Can anyone tell me how to post pictures on here?

The easiest way to post pictures is to use the "photos" tab above and download your photos into the gallery. Then when you post here on the forums your photos will be in a menu below the message box when you post a message. Just click on the one you want or hit control and the selections to post more than one.

Ok. See how the vet feels about his lung sounds. You could also ask him about antibiotic eye drops. I've seen a lot of eye issues and they usually do the trick.

The ones I use are made by Butler. It is Gentamicin Sulfate .3%

Relative Humidity is the amount of moisture that air holds at a certain temperature. The grater the temp. the more moisture the air holds. If the amount of moisture in the air remains constant but the temperature increases the relative humidity reading decreases.

The primary cause of respiratory infections is too much humidity. This may mean that the temperatures in the enclosure are too cool. Dragons should have a hot side ambient (air) temperature of about 90 and when possible humidity should be no greater than 60 percent for an extended period. This is generally not an issue for dragons kept inside.

RI are treated with antibiotics and temperatures should be raised in the enclosure as well. It's also a good idea to raise nightime temps. without adding light. Black bulbs and CHE's work well for this.

I just checked and the current temp on the hot side of the tank is 98.6 and the cool side is 84. The humidity guage says it is 34% humidity. The vet gave him an antibiotic injection yesterday, and he has to get 3 more in 48 hour intervals. The vet also has us rinsing his eyes with saline once a day (they were all mucussy which is what alerted me to his being sick). He told us to keep it as hot in the tank as possible right now. I will go to the store and buy black lights. Do they have to be from a pet store or can I just use regular black light?

When I said black bulbs I was talking about incandescent bulbs that give heat without light. CHE's will accomplish the same result.

I wouldn't go crazy with getting it too hot. The ambient (air) temp. should be in the low 90's. I think 98 is too hot and the dragon will thermoregulate away from it. At night 80 degrees or slightly lower ambient would be good.

I don't think the water dish is problematic on the cool side of the tank. All my animals have them. I would look for a digital thermometer and hygrometer. Flukers makes one that most of the big name pet stores seem to carry.

If it's hot and humid there then you are likely using A/C that lowers both. With the higher temps. in his enclosure I'm sure the conditions are in an OK range.

What symptoms of an RI does he have?

Thank you for the information. We actually don't have air conditioning (we only have about a week a year of 90 degree temps), but do use a fan and often have the windows open. Is a humidity of 45-50 ok in general? Also is the hygrometer that you are talking about a dual with a thermometer? The only hydrometers that Petco had were not digital. I will look online. We are currently using a digital thermometer though.
His RI symptoms are irregular (seems like he is periodically gasping for air) breathing and goopy eyes.

Just wondering...how long has he been showing signs of illness, and what are the actual temps. in your house ? Do you keep the 3 heat sources on all summer long,even in the heat ? I recently spoke with someone who had the heat bulbs on during the heat wave and one of her dragons got sick with a R.I., this with no spraying and no water in the cage. By the way, when I mentioned that I spray [ for drinking purposes ] I do so lightly on the top of the head so the beardies drink as the water trickles down the mouth.

Respiratory infections can develop from sustained periods of too little moisture, or too much. I'm glad Angie posted an experience regarding this, common misconception to believe that they only occur in a very humid environment.

My recommended RH gradient is as follows for BD's(in regards to humidity within tank)

BAD: 0-20 % or 60-100%
GOOD 25-55 % or 30-40 %(best)

Angie - temperature in the room where he is is around 70 degrees, but probably got to around 80 this summer. I did turn off one of his ceramic heaters this summer. As for spraying, that is also how I give him water - by dripping it on the tip of his nose so that he can drink it.

Humidity of 40-50% is fine. Generally too low humidity causes dehydration not respiratory infections but anything is possible. The Flukers I was referring to is a dual digital unit that shows temps. and humidity.

Respiratory Infections are generally caused by temps. that are too low or humidity that is too high. There are of course other less common causes, viruses, allergies, germs, etc.

By your description I am not totally on board with your vets diagnosis. Did he/she use a stethoscope d to test for labored breathing or moisture in the lungs? This generally does not come and go. Regardless it sounds like he/she has prescribed Fortaz which is very safe and has no down side so I'd stick with it and see if there is improvement in his eyes and other symptoms you mentioned.

If his eyes don't clear up another treatment option would be antibiotic eye drops. I've had good success in dragons with this.

My mistake to BDlvr and Evie. I assumed the antibiotic given was baytril

KMartin - the antibiotic is Batril. Is this bad? The vet said to monitor him closely because it is very powerful and can cause lesions at the injection site. But is there something else I need to know? I am taking him back for another injection tomorrow afternoon. Thanks!

Baytril is not bad. It should be daily injections though. Fortaz is another antibiotic (I prefer) that is given by injection every 3 days. I don't know why your vet chose Bayril to be given on a staggered schedule. KMartin assumed you were giving Baytril orally which is less optimum.

Hi Evie,

Sorry took a while for me to get back. Baytril is not bad, it's commonly and effectively prescribed to combat respiratory illnesses in lizards. The injection plan recommended by your vet seems a bit strange to me though, baytril is most effective given every other day for about two weeks at a low dose, or until signs of audible coughing/gargling go away. And to Steve I never have heard of oral injections before. My vet injects most lizards in the leg. I assumed it was baytril because most vets I know use baytril against RI's.

Evie what would be best is to get a front-facing picture of your set-up posted here, and the smarter folks will help you out setting up more ideal husbandry conditions for your dragon.

I would recommend what BDlvr did and go to reptile supply.com and purchase Acidophilus. It's needed when giving baytril. Everyday you can give dragon a few drops of it, but must be kept in fridge or the active cultures are useless. Plus acidophilus contains papain, which helps break down hard insect matter.

Given orally means that the animal drinks it, usually from a dropper or needleless syringe. Bayril can be used subcutaneously or orally with dosage conversion. I have always given injections under the skin of the belly.

Here is a picture (hopefully) of my beardie's enclosure, and a couple of him including the view from above that was requested

What's the red in his mouth along the gum line of his lower jaw?

He doesn't look too badly underweight.

The cage looks rather small for a dragon his size...Does he use his basking area at all or does he tend to stay in the open area most of the time? (the cool end). Also, it wouldn't hurt to cover up three sides of the cage, the back and sides. It will make him feel less exposed.

Is his mouth as red in life as it is in the picture? Do you see any white cheesy like substance in and around his gums? If you do, he may have mouth rot as well.
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PHLdyPayne

Forum Princess

I'm not sure what the red is. I did notice a red dot when I was feeding him, but thought that it might just be from the vet using something to look in his mouth. As far the other, I haven't noticed any white cheesy looking anything in his mouth, but I will check specifically for it, and how red his mouth is. Thank you both very much for bringing it to my attention. I don't know what to look for/what is normal.What color is his mouth supposed to be?

Thanks also for the suggestions on food. I will also look for a replacement scale. Maybe I will buy one from the place I'm getting the acidopholus. Do I give that to him even when he is feeling better?

Bdlvr, I noticed the background that you covered your tank with. Again, I never would have thought about that. In the past I have tried to cover the back of the tank with towels, but they always fell off and frustrated me.

Hi Evie,

Thanks for posting the picture. Your dragon looks big, fed well but maybe a bit dry for my tastes. I'm no longer sure that humidity was the problem after all. And LdyPayne is right, looks like a bit of mouth rot on the side of the jaw. Does not look too advanced though, enflamed a little. You can treat a minor issue of mouth rot using diluted chlorhexidine solution (Nolvasan). You can purchase from a number of online retailers, however I like the brand Pro Exotics.com carries, (Robyn knows the best brands!) which they call Virosan. It's a vetinary mouthwash that has proven success in treating minor cases of mouth rot. It's also the best and safest cage cleaner out there.
Spray twice a day at the rot site and wipe excess mucous from jaw with a paper towel, reducing the likelihood of the bad bacteria spreading to the nasal and ear cavities, and also the eyes. Do this for about 2 weeks looking for improvement from the rot site. If mucous or a yellow-fungus material are still present you will need to take to vet for anti-biotic treatment, or if severly advanced they have to surgically remove.

What I see in your set up that needs improvement is just a few changes, a bigger tank (4x2) would be ideal but if that is all you have to work with at the moment it can suffice. It just needs better temp gradients and a more suitable substrate. Remove all the lamp domes except for that big deep one. Go to Pro Exotics.com store and purchase a few 50 W halogen flood bulbs, they are excellent and long lasting basking bulbs. Cover the sides and back of tank with blank cardboard like LdyPayne suggested. Better for sense of security. Also, cut to fit pieces of thin wood on top of screen cage will help keep in heat and maintain a proper gradient.

Get rid of the reptile carpet, it's not a suitable substrate at all. I think cypress mulch would be suitable for your set-up. I know it's hard to get in your area though, if you'd like to pay for shipping I'll send you some for free of charge. Pro Exotics carries good cypress on their site too for those who don't have it available in their area. 2-3" of depth would be good in that tank.

I have to jet for a while...but will be back with more thoughts/suggestions

What are you an advertisement for Proexotics? There are many good suppliers out there with much more selection.

Your treatment for Stomatitis is incorrect anyway. A topical treatment would not solve a systematic problem. Regardless I don't see anything that would indicate this diagnosis.

From the picture it just looks like the gums are maybe a little red. It's probably normal and just the way the picture is.

I use the background more for me that the animal. I think an adult dragon gets used to any environment. In some of my enclosures the dragons can see in 3 directions when they are on the basking spot.

The background keeps me from having to look at the cords hanging down the back. lol.

""What are you an advertisement for Proexotics? There are many good suppliers out there with much more selection.""

I always go to bat for those who have helped me. Yes, you can buy things Pro Exotics sells elsewhere.

""Your treatment for Stomatitis is incorrect anyway. A topical treatment would not solve a systematic problem. Regardless I don't see anything that would indicate this diagnosis.""

Have you ever treated a dragon with mouth rot before?

""From the picture it just looks like the gums are maybe a little red. It's probably normal and just the way the picture is.""

The photo I saw looks a little too red, also the saliva looks thicker than in normal dragons mouths. Evie, to confirm this the vet can do a Gram stain, but it does not look advanced. I couldn't see the cheese : )

Such drudgery Steve. We can never get anywhere helping keepers when you constantly discredit the input of others. C'mon man we can work together.

I will always post a comment when incorrect information is given. It doesn't matter to me is feelings are hurt only that the animal gets the correct care.

You constantly forget. I am way older (3 times maybe) than you and have many many more animals and have been doing this for much longer than you. My primary function today is as a rescue/hospice for sick animals. Medical care and treatment is my specialty. Local vets, other rescues, and animal control send sick animals here. I have a paralyzed dragon (3 yrs) a blind dragon (2 yrs) 2 deformed dragons, a spayed dragon, and about every injury you can think of. You have seen many of my cages, etc.

For whatever reason you think you and I are equal. I only give advice (as you should) on things that I have personal experience with. So yes I have experienced stomatitis before on more than one occasion unfortunately. I feel I have seen the bulk of all Bearded Dragon ailments, but as I stated I have never had a dragon with a respiratory infection.

But then again you never believe me. Even after I sent a receipt to you proving I've had a temp. gun for years (which is how you know my name) you still think I just fell off that proverbial turnip truck.

Why don't you list your experience for all to see and pictures to back it up?

Definitely do not use Cypress mulch for a substrate for a bearded dragon.Cypress mulch holds moisture, can be ingested and cause impaction not to mention any stiff pieces can get lodged in the mouth, throat and anywhere else through the digestive tract. As I have never heard you suggest cyprus mulch before kmartin I expect this is just a mixup on your part...since cyprus mulch is most often recommended for humidity loving reptiles such as many snakes and lizards like green iguanas.

Halogen flood light bulbs can be found at any store household bulbs are sold. I use them for my basking spot...but I don't see any reason to pay 2-5 times the price for what a local department store sells them for. That and by ordering online, shipping comes into effect.

There is nothing wrong suggesting a company/website to purchase products, as long as it doesn't fall into the 'advertising category'. Pushing one particular company repeated in the same post (buy this, this and that here) is starting to fall within the grey area of 'no advertising' on the forums (other than classifieds). As in this case I feel you were mostly aiming to be helpful and not trying to advertise...I won't pull the post but consider this a warning to be more careful in how you push a particular companies products. Its safe to say 'XYZ company carries everything you need for a proper setup..bulbs, uvb, substrate etc.' or 'the best place to buy substrate, bulbs, is at XYZ company'. This keeps things within TOS while still enabling a poster to help direct somebody asking for advice/help/info to a good source.

For the cage backing, you can use aquarium/vivarium background sheets which are sold at many aquarium supply stores and pet stores. Or plain construction paper can be used or cardboard, bristal board etc. If you or somebody in your family is particularly creative, it is also easy to design your own. Most stiff white art paper suitable for pencil/color pencil drawing can be used to make great custom made backgrounds and side panels. You can get the finished product laminated at a copy shop (which typically have the equipment to do large size laminations) or you can use a clear stick on shelf liner type cover (note that it is not easy to get these things on smoothly without wrinkles and bubbles...so it is very easy to wreck the entire project if it goes on badly.) There are also protective clear coat sprays available for pencil art (also can be called 'fixatives'). The idea is to make the dragon feel more secure.

If you are really ambitions and plan to make a larger cage, you can custom build a 3D background/base for inside the tank. The important thing to consider with these is you want to use products that are non toxic and don't have chemical fumes that linger long after products are dry. Fortunately most products safe to use in the home, especially around children...will be ok for reptiles. Read labels, most give a 'dry' time and a 'cure' time..and should be applied in a well vented area (ie outside or near an exhaust fan). As this wont' be for a wet environment (ie wont' have water areas or be used for high humidity animals or semi aquatic animals like turtles) its alot easier to create these types of background.

I have never done one of these myself but I am sure you can find samples in the enclosure forum, or doing a google search on 'home made terrarium backgrounds, terrarium backgrounds, 3D backgrounds' and other key words.
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PHLdyPayne

Forum Princess

Thank you KMartin for your input. I am sure learning alot from talking to you folks..It's great! I will go but the product that you told me about for Beardie's mouth. He is already getting antibiotics from his vet. I'm wondering why the vet didn't notice the mouth problem though...beginning to wonder about him. The halogen bulbs would still need to be in the dome lamps correct? Would they keep it as warm as the ceramic heaters that I have right now? As far as the bigger tank goes, the 40 breeder was the biggest floor space that I could get at Petco.

As your dragon is already on antibiotics I suggest waiting before doing anything else. The gums of your dragon are a little red, but it could be just from the picture. Dragon gums/mouths should look a light pink color.
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PHLdyPayne

Forum Princess

He does use his basking area sometimes, but mostly stays at the cooler end of the enclosure. I am still fighting to get the humidity lower in his tank. It is staying at around 50% even with his water dish taken out.

The 50% humidity is fine. I think he stays on the cooler side because it is too hot on the hot side.

Different Dragons have different temp. preferences within a reasonable range. In general, if the dragon doesn't use the basking spot then it is too hot. If the dragon always stays there then it is too cool. The dragon should have and use a raised basking area for a significant part of the day. Using a raised basking area will get him closer to the UVB.

I will try turning off one of the ceramic heaters and see what it does to the temp in an effort to have Beardie move onto the basking spot.

Yes, definitely turn at least one off...I also think it's too hot. His size is good...pretty large animal. Make sure you soak him once a week in shallow water for a while, he may be dehydrated and need a good loooong drink. A dehydrated animal may also lose it's appetite.

Humidity within 25-55% ranges are fine for dragons. I never had any trouble with respiratory infections in my dragons, even when humidity was lower than 25% (it isn't easy to keep any level of humidity in my apartment during the winter because of the heating).

Its fine to change UVB bulbs once every 6-9 months. Though UVB bulbs do degrade over time, at 3 months the output is still close to the brand new amount. More a waste of money to change every 3 months. Quality of bulb also plays a role...a cheap brand may not last as long as others. The kind you have is fine, change every 6-9 months, its what every experienced keeper recommends. It won't hurt the dragon to change more often, but I don't see the point, unless you don't mind dishing out extra money.

What catches my attention about your setup, is 3 sources of heat. Is the 98F surface temp on the basking spot or just the ambient (air) temperature? With that much heat, I am surprised your dragon wasn't cooked....

Can you describe your setup more? Is the 45 gallon breeder a glass tank with a screen lid? Are the heat lights/CHE mounted above the cage? Lying ontop of the screen pointing straight down? OR are they on stands etc, several inches or more above the cage/screen? Also, what is the typical room temperature of the room the cage is in?

From what I remember, 45 gallon breeder tanks are not very tall...19"? and have more length and width than say a 45 gallon long. It seems to me the inside of that tank should be alot hotter...unless the lights and CHE are very far above the top and most of the heat they give off is on the top of the cage and surrounding room, with little getting into the cage. (heat rises afterall).

Also, since it wasn't mentioned..how old is your dragon and what is his current weight and length?
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PHLdyPayne

Forum Princess

"What catches my attention about your setup, is 3 sources of heat. Is the 98F surface temp on the basking spot or just the ambient (air) temperature? With that much heat, I am surprised your dragon wasn't cooked...."

excellent observation on the part of one LdyPayne. I think the 98.6 is the ambient and indeed too hot.

I thought the same thing...3 heat sources [ one being a 100 watt bulb] may be too much and be causing the symptoms.? If a 100 watt is used with a black dome reflector, it doesn't throw anywhere the amount that it would in an aluminum type...plus if it's the deep dome, it throws even less. But the ceramic heaters would boost the temp. sky high...I would def. get rid of at least one. By the way...always use a bright, clear heat bulb...the red and blue are not bright enough or close to natural light and can cause a sleepiness or depression in beardies, who love a bright light.

Ok, I am really unsure now. To take the ambient temp I have been hanging the probe of the digital thermometer in the air. I thought that on one side it needed to be 70-80 degrees and the other side 90-100 degrees. Is this not the case? Where do I get the heat gun to measure the surface temp?

The 45 breeder is a glass tank with a screen lid. The lights sit on top of the screen. Maybe it is cooler in the room he is in than I thought...it is downstairs. I was just guessing around 70 because I have no thermometer in the room (gulp). I will get one though. After reading this and other responses, I am really concerned about the temp in his tank. Perhaps I have been taking it wrong?? I just let the probe hang in the air. And perhaps I was wrong about what the ambient temps should be? As for his weight and length, I will find out at his vet appointment tomorrow (I wasn't there for yesterday's). I used to have a digital scale for him, but it doesn't work anymore. Also, he is 5 years old.

If the probe is hanging in the air, it is measuring ambient temperature. Ambient temps should be between 85-90F. The basking temperature should be between 100-120F (110-115F is a decent temp to aim for...I think a little hotter is alright, as long as there are cooler areas of the basking spot a dragon can choose from).

To measure basking temperature, place the probe directly ontop of the basking area. MOst digital thermometers need 10-15 minutes or longer to measure current temperatures...they can be rather slow to register changes hence the need to leave the probe at a certain spot for some time when its moved. The instructions/information usually packaged with the thermometer should indicate the 'stand' time needed to accurately measure a temperature at a new location.

Temperature (temp) guns can be found at automobile supply stores (their original use is measuring temperatures of engine parts) or you can purchased them online at Pro Exotics ( www.proexotics.com ). These are much more accurate and you don't need to wait at all to find out the surface temperature of any given location, just point and shoot.

As the dragon is 5 years old, its done its growing, at least length wise...it can gain weight and fill out or get overweight if fed way too much (not a concern with yours, since from what you mentioned earlier, it is underweight). Crickets fed should be no bigger than the space between its eyes...so a 5 year old dragon of normal growth, should have no problem eating large crickets. If it is as small as a hatchling or juvenile (14" or less) it is really undersized...unless its not a pure inland bearded dragon or a Lawson's bearded dragon. If you can get a picture of it, especially from above, we will be able to tell if its a Lawsons' dragon. (or Rankins). These dragons don't typically get much bigger than 12-14" in length. Regular Inland Bearded dragons range between 16-24" with 18-20" being average).

At the vet, definitely get its weight and total length, (snout to tail tip).

Newspaper is fine as a substrate as well. It may also be causing the 'darkness' on the belly though...especially if its pretty uniform (if more like bars, than that is natural pigment.) As newspaper ink easily comes off, especially if the dragon is damp from misting or being in water, it will turn a dragon's belly and feet black in time. I personally feel unprinted newsprint is better, as you don't have the mess from ink used on newspaper (also in some areas, the ink can be toxic though most publishers use soy based inks. Colored inks are often still toxic even if the black ink is soy based). Regular paper towel works fine too.

To use the probiotic, the bottle of acyliphis should include instructions on how to administer. I haven't used it myself at all, so can't say how much to use or how it should be administered. Its definitely administered orally. However, if you are feeding 'Critical Care' to your dragon, it may not be needed...check the information with it, see if it includes a probiotic or 'appetite stimulant' Maybe BRLvr can shed more light as he's used this product before with his rescues.
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PHLdyPayne

Forum Princess

I didn't mean to start a war here folks. KMartin, I happen to trust Steve's experience and input. He has helped me in the past when Beardie got sick. Other people must trust him also because they send sick animals to him. He is always posting to these forums, and I was very relieved to see him still on here when Beardie got sick this time. There is no need to attack him like you have. You are entitled to your own opinion, but to openly attack someone is uncalled for on here.