Reptile & Amphibian Forums

So, the new cages finally arrived.

It is supposed to last for a year or so.
The only rule I didn't follow was putting the lamps inside the cage. But anyways the temps/humidity are good. I also still have to find a good naturalistic suspended hide, but they seem to like the hide at soil level at night. There are also lots of folliage to hide

There are plenty of choices and they don't seem shy to bask when I am around. All plants are artificial.

Temperature: from 110-120F in the basking spot to lower 70's on the coolest side. I also installed an Exo Terra 5.0 UVB tube. Photoperiod is 13 hours.
Humidity: 70-90% (don't pay attention to the hygrometer in the pics as that time was before I first wet the substrate, now it is wet and is going to hold)

Now the pictures. Please tell me if you think I did my homework now.

I myself am a beginner as far as monitor care goes.I kept monitors in the past but i've thrown all i thought on how i kept them in the past away.You need to do this as well.You had an idea of how to keep monitors before,you've asked for advise on how to keep them-but your main concern is what's best for you not the monitors.Your cage may be an approvement over what you started but your stubbornness to accept what your monitors needs are is going to kill/stunt them.If you want to keep a monitor that will survive just barely under conditions which are conveniant to you,get a Savannah Monitor-just keep it cool in a predetermined size of cage decided by you(sarcasm).I'm not trying to be mean,and you can do things differently than what people recommend but make sure it's for the benefit of the monitor.And read carefully the advice of those who have had success

Moe,
Sorry but I really don't understand why am I being stubborn. I have everything set up: restricted ventilation, solid roof, low wattage lamp, fair temperature and humidity, lots of options for perching and hiding (they can even go behind the background) and no handling.

I left the lamp outside (that is the only spot where there is a small opening on the top, but just enought for the lamp) just because the cage is only 30 inches high and the lamp inside would make the lizards loose around 10 inches. I did it because of them, not because of me. Anyways, the hot spot is working well and the whole cage is not too warm, it has a very good gradient.

They have been very active today, basking, climbing, exploring the cage, back to basking.
I also saw them drinking on a number of occasions.

Where am I being stubborn? Im not trying to treat them like iguanas or exanthematicus..
I accept the criticism but please be more specific.

I don't believe bashing or belittling people helps it's disrespectful.But you just can't pick and choose husbandry practices to suit your needs.For example the size of the cage for the prasinus in the next year or so depends on it's growth not your budget.Do more research on other sites,for example there is a lot about hides and substrate.What are you using for substrate?do your monitors have tight hiding spots to wedge themselves into too feel secure.Correct me if i am wrong but i see bark substrate and caves for hiding spots.In the end it's up to you what,but you have so much resources here,why not use them,the hard part is taking the advise of people who are sucessful not just regurgitating old info.

Moe,

Yes there is a thin layer of bark chips covering around 2.5 inches or dirt in the substrate. Im using the bark chips like it was dead leaves. It is just a slight modification because it was the more readily available resource here.
Was my choice a poor one?? I can change and provide the dead leaves. I just tought they would do the same function of keeping the moisture.

The cage size can be increased. I just wanted to buy something for a start, see how the lizards do. By reading posts and watching pictures I do not see people giving their newborn animals a whole room in their houses.
I just wanted to check: hey, OK, these animals are cool, doing fine and will live the next few years here, now I can move on to a further step.

As for the hideouts, no they are not really ideal right now. The smaller ones are hiding behind the background so I assume it is a tight spot, despite having the background, they also make use of that cave (which Im thinking about filling with some moss to make it tighter inside).
The larger monitor has the dense folliage and I also cut a fiber pot to be short enough for him to hide inside tightly.

The hideouts are the first thing Im going to correct and since I dont have cork bark tubes available here, I tought about buying cork sheets, making rolls out of them and glueing them in the walls. I guess they would be just as functional (provide climbing and hiding areas). I could even glue bark chips on the outside surface.

I hope it meets the demands of the monitors.

When I showed my first photos of my monitors in their cage,they were surrounded by bark chips.I got a bit of flack over that,the reality was i used peat soil which had some douglas fir bark chips mixed in which surfaced and gave the impression of a bark substrate but it was just on the surface.Bark in itself is not the best substrate,but for you using it over soil to help contain moisture will do the job till you can get leaf litter.

I just bought a sheet of cork and will make the rolls to use as hiding spots. I also contacted the manufacturer of the sheets who also happens to import cork bark, they'll see if they can sell me a bit of it in the natural form so I can make the cork tubes.
For now I'll have to make rolls with a 3mm sheet. They won't look nice but I believe they'll do the job.

The cages are holding good temperature (82F on the cool side as I type) and humidity (65-95% depending on the hours of day, we are in dry season right now, it's making 20-30% in my city, but in a month it will jump to 80%).

I'll make the cork rolls and get some pictures later tonight.

They have been drinking very well from the pot.

Make a top for that cage, and put those lights INSIDE, you are letting most of your humidity out, and heat! Doesn't matter how much foil, towels or crap you on on top of it, you are losing humidity and heat.

prasinus need 80-100% humidity. I would also add hollow cork tubes, and a lot of them.

If I were you I'd start working on a much larger cage, NOW not in a year. You'll need at LEAST 6' tall 7-8' would be better. These animals will like to look down on you, not you look down on them, it makes them feel very insecure, causing stress.

Notice the solid enclosed top? This can cage easily keep 70% humidity, with a few minor chances I could keep it 80-95%. Though for V. similis it's unneeded.

Cheers,
Chad

Chad, thanks for stopping by.

Unfortunatelly I cannot build the 6 feet tall enclosure at this moment, but I will do it ASAP. The smaller monitor is just 2 inches SVL and would dissapear in such a cage.

The cork tubes are not available in my country, so I'll have to find an alternative for that. I'll be taking care of it this week.

As for the lamp, I can also put it inside. I can try putting it in one of the front corners pointing diagonally down.
I just thought it wouldn't be needed as long as I'm able to keep the temperature gradient and humidity levels OK.
I can also try using another tipe of bulb, a non spot one, so I put it in the top horizontally, and still keep a lot of vertical space.

I'm putting some pics that show better how it currently is.
This is the cage from above. It has glass on the top and a strip of metallic mesh which I covered with black plastic (I left 2 tiny strips on each side for ventilation):

This is it from below, just a small opening for the lamp:

And finally, just for the record, my hygrometer (it does get a bit dryer with lights on):

The top I can cut a piece of glass and cover that whole screened area, sealing the sides with some silicone or even duct tape.
The new lamp I can put it tied horizontally in the screen, I just hope the lizards don't climb on it.

As for the cork tubes, I'll have to think about something. I thought about using 600ml soda bottles horizontally and painted black, with moss inside. Do you think it could work? what about PVC pipes horizontally?

The bigger cage I will do it, but first the lizards need to stay alive.

Thanks again

You have a drill right? Get any non-toxic logs, and go to a home improvement store, and get a 1.5" drill tap, and by a 12" extension and you can make your own hollow logs, for dirt cheap.

What I could do is build a solid wood top, and put the light inside, it can point down that is sorta the point about basking under it, don't worry about the space look in my cage you are only losing a small amount of space around the bulb. If you just use the bulb they can't grip onto it, so you will not have a problem with burning.

The reason for the wood top, is that black plastic, and the glass doesn't hold in heat very well. I know you live in Brazil, but you should be able to find small 45W outdoor flood bulbs (I prefer floods others use normal bulbs, my reason I don't use normal bulbs is they heat the air too much sometimes) You need AT LEAST 2-3 basking spots for 3 lizards ideally you should have 1-2 PER lizard house in the same enclosure. If you use the small 45W outdoor floods you will be able to use at least 2 in that cage.

You cage looks fairly busy enough, but it does lack many tight fitting hide spots, where the lizards have to squeeze in (hollow logs)

I'm sure in Brazil you can find pothos plants at any home improvement store they will help keep your humidity up. Also I'm not sure if you have access to oak leaves, but any slow breaking down non-toxic leaves will help keep humidity up, and make the cage look nice. Just toss a bunch in, no need to clean them.

Cheers,
Chad

"You have a drill right? Get any non-toxic logs, and go to a home improvement store, and get a 1.5" drill tap, and by a 12" extension and you can make your own hollow logs, for dirt cheap."

- Thanks, that is a great idea. I can do that. I also tought about buying cork sheets and making rolls out of them.

"What I could do is build a solid wood top, and put the light inside, it can point down that is sorta the point about basking under it, don't worry about the space look in my cage you are only losing a small amount of space around the bulb. If you just use the bulb they can't grip onto it, so you will not have a problem with burning.
The reason for the wood top, is that black plastic, and the glass doesn't hold in heat very well. I know you live in Brazil, but you should be able to find small 45W outdoor flood bulbs (I prefer floods others use normal bulbs, my reason I don't use normal bulbs is they heat the air too much sometimes) You need AT LEAST 2-3 basking spots for 3 lizards ideally you should have 1-2 PER lizard house in the same enclosure. If you use the small 45W outdoor floods you will be able to use at least 2 in that cage."

- The minimum wattage I have found is 50w, which Im already using, and they are pretty powerful even from outside the top, I had to install a dimmer.
I don't want to be stubborn but I don't really get why making so much insulation whan the temperature and humidity are already fine. The background is made out of styrofoam and already holds some temperature in there. But I could put a cork sheet on the top form the inside as well if it is really needed.

"You cage looks fairly busy enough, but it does lack many tight fitting hide spots, where the lizards have to squeeze in (hollow logs)"
- Im solving it by tomorrow.

"I'm sure in Brazil you can find pothos plants at any home improvement store they will help keep your humidity up. Also I'm not sure if you have access to oak leaves, but any slow breaking down non-toxic leaves will help keep humidity up, and make the cage look nice. Just toss a bunch in, no need to clean them."

- I put a thin layer of bark chips over the substrate but yes I can change for dead leaves if they work better.

I made the rolls with cork and put in the cages last night. I didn't see them very interested in the tubes but I'll leave it there.
In the picture there are 2 tubes at the front, but also another one back there, just above the background, it is in the highest part of the cage.

This morning I offered them some boiled quail egg and ground chicked with vitamins and calcium (not very easy to get ground turkey here). I know it is not the best food but at this point anything they eat is fine.
This little one readily accepted a bite from a tong.

I still didn't mess with the lamps as the enviromental readings are OK and I want to cause any additional stress with changes.

Try small parts of pinkies

Thanks Ludo,

I did try it a few days ago and the smaller one (same that ate chicken) accepted readily. The bigger one didn't want.

The only thing the bigger accepted was raw egg. But today I offered it again and it refused.

I left a bunch of crickets free roaming the cage.

I also turned off the UVB to leave the terrarium darker so they can feel a bit safer. They are basking a lot under the spot lamp.

The cork tubes they didn't use so far.

The cork toobes you want are made from cork bark, not processed cork rolls. The cork you have would be best for lining the walls of the cages to increase the usable climbing area and to provide security by decreasing their field of vision.

What monitors like for a hide spot is something that makes them feel secure. The preferred hides of my tree monitors provide areas that the monitor can wedge into, like two pieces of bark layed next to eachother or a small cork tube with moss in it. They like the sensation of being "sandwiched" between the bark the most though.

Other than lining the walls, the best you can do with the cork you have would be to "fan" a few layers of the cork to provide small, tight hiding places. I would skip this all together though and get them some bark flats that create small crevices to hide in when they are placed side by side. Since you have a hard time getting cork try and find some bark you can remove from a tree.

You have been working pretty hard to implement the advice that has been given.

Good luck!

Steve - sdi

Tooooooooooooooooooooooooobes.

Hey Steve thanks for the comments.

I called the company here that produces the cork sheets and I think I may get the natural cork these days.

Maybe it doesn't look like for most people, but Im trying to get these monitors going.

I can see they like tight places, the smaller is hiding behind the background at night.

I just hope they decide to eat normally soon. I can see there is not much time to waste with this species. I just tossed a lot of crickets in the cages, but even the lizards seeming not shy at all, very active, they pass through the crickets like the weren't even seeing them.

Im no expert by any means, but maybe they just dont want to eat crickets as food? I just posted a question regarding my brown roughneck monitor, which hadnt eating for nearly 2 weeks and i decided to finally try to change it up and gave him shrimp opposed to mice or turkey. he went absolutely insane for it. so maybe if they aren't eating, try different foods, specifically ones they are known to eat in the wild.

Im trying crickets, roaches, mealworms, eggs, pinkies, ground chicken.

As babies and adults it is normal for them to be eating insects.The monitors are trying to tell you something isn't right.If you spend a lot of time around the enclosure I would guess it's a security issue.Yes it is good they are eating something,but they need to be eating full prey items.

Basinboa-

I agree with moe64. If they are not eating then something is wrong with your husbandry. There are far more qualified people on this forum to give advice then me. At this point, I would not throw in a handful of crickets to roam the cage. Believe it or not, the crickets, combined with multiple enclosure changes and a lack of secure hide spots will stress the monitors.

As you continue to observe them you will notice each monitor has its own personality. Their personality is shaped by experiences in their life. Since yours are "farm bred" (possibly/probably wild caught) imports. They probably have had a pretty rough life so far. Imported from Indo to the US to Brazil the whole time living in suboptimal conditions at best. I have one V macraei that will still not travel far from its favorite hide spot and always hides every time I enter the room after being in my care for about six months. The others will eat from a deli cup from my hand. The one that won’t leave its hide spot has two small scars on its back. The point is it takes time for them to acclimate and some may not. Some arrive particularly stressed and any stimulus can be too much. The babies are especially flighty and must be left alone.

I suggest getting the proper hides, attempt to feed them once a day from a feeding station and leave them alone. When you feed them place one or two crickets in a deli cup and leave them until the next day. One day gives the monitor enough time to roam the cage and find the food on its own. Try the same thing with some pinky mouse parts. Once you have provided the correct cage conditions there is nothing more you can do other than provide food and water. They will make it or they won’t. The more you hang around peering through the glass, change the cage set up, take them out to hold them etc...the greater the chance is they will not be able to establish themselves and die. Just take it slow.

In my opinion the keys to your success will be reducing any outside stimulus and getting them hydrated. ONLY then will they consider taking food.

I have to say that you are putting in an excellent effort relative to others. It is hard to sift through all the information everyone is giving to be able to provide proper husbandry. Keep up the good work.

Good luck!

Steve - sdi

thanks again for the comments.

Im not being around too often. I try to give them privacy and Im not handling at all.

In the times I observe them, they seem active. I can also tell they are being active because some of the substrate on the edges have been removed, as they were trying to dig.

I know their diets should be insect based but at this point anything they eat would be nice. Right now I have a pinkie in warm water and will cut it to pieces and offer.

I really hope they acclimate. To avoid additional stress, Im cleaning the water and removing food cups at night when they are hidden.

moe glad to see you have a feel for animals, and you are right they are trying to say something int right.
our job as keepers is to read these animals and provide proper husbandry. I understand husbandry is as variable as the climat we live inn or the cages we provide, but nevertheless some basics can be applied to any captives.

I dont know how to come across when explaining my way and what works for me, but I do know when someones husbandry is set for failior.
this guy is playing with time he dosent have and the lizards will pay the price. especialy this specie you dont get many chances to get your husbandry right with prasinus.

you know your on the righ path when your lizards start feeding with gusto, this is a matter of a day or two, if not then the problem persist and needs adresing.

prasinus should be fed living pingkies or fuzzies and crickets in low numbers, in nature they eat lots of lizards and frogs.

feeding anything els is not a good idea.

Jobi,

Im not playing, Im trying. I followed pretty much everything that was told me BUT the lamp inside the cage, but I managed to have the same enviromental results.

The different food items are just trials, but also from people's advices.

Im offering both crickets and pinkies as well.

I DO WORRY ABOUT THE ANIMALS!

These different food items is just a way to try triggering their feed response and give them a bit of energy. I do not intent to keep them on ground chicken or turkey, but these foods certainly contain energy and protein and this is what they need the most right now, even these not being in their natural diets..

Maybe the cage is not really bad now. It could be that they got weak because of the week I kept them in the temporary housing.
Anyways, Im trying and they have all the basics: climbing, hiding, clean water, privacy.

The terrariums are now all covered with dark plastic in hope they feel more secure.

I wish I could do more but I believe there isn't much left. I cannot build a room sized enclosure right now.

listen never have I posted to offend or opset a keeper, we are just guys trying to do the best for animals we love, no better no worst just diferent ways and comprehension.

your present cages are to restricted and hot, the reason I advised a regular 25w and reflector is because it offers less heat and more options for the lizards (a better gradient) a safer and more reliable heat source, a base for improuvements.

in small cages less means more.

as for other foods...STOP!!
the reason is simple to understand, varanids need the best foods we can provide for them to thrive (meaning no MBD or food related illneses) this is doublely thrue for smaller tree species because they dont have reserves (body fat)
even more so when they arent aclimated and dont feed regularly.

offering them substitute with they of cors will find palatable will only add to the problem and keep them awat from good food longer then need be.

now wonce you have corected the lights and discarded the silly top to let the cage breath, now is time to add a usable hide, one that will run the lenth of the cage and alow full cover of the lizards, just imagine a 4in wide sandwich that the lizard can crowl inbetween righ under the basking or at the other end of the cage where its much cooler (like 72f) this is a usable hide that alows options needed for your lizards to metabolise properly, and when lizards have these options they feed and thrive as captives.

so pleas forget what you think you know or what others are telling you and do this, then whatch your lizards and let them tell you what they need.

iv given you all you need to know its your call now, let them live. one day you will have a handfull of babies and a grim on your face!

ps. your only female is the smaller one take care of her, cheers

oh and forget about corck, its an insulator and thats not what you want, you want the thinest plywood witch will alow heat penetration under the basking, this will create the gradient your lizards need when hidding. all this is vital

place the hide a few inches under the basking, remember it dont matter if your lizards touch the bulb as its only a regular 25w and have been prouved reliable in raising 1000s babie lizards.

You mean I should use something like those "retes stacks"? Because plywood is flat.

NO!
its not about flat nor is it about reates stacks, its about usable thermoregular options.
This you need to understand if you want to be sucesfull with your captives.

you can always curve the sheets with hot water if you dont like flat.

husbandry is always a matter of compromises (any maried man knows this) if you think about keeping your lizards in a nice natural looking cage, your day dreaming wake up!!!

thers nothing natural about any cages, no matter how big.

making the cage work is what herpetoculture is about not the looks

I understand the principles. Basically, they need to thermoregulate both exposed and hidden.

Im going after that tomorrow. The cage is all covered with dark cardboard paper since yesterday. I don't know if it helps but I think it does no harm.

The cage has a small spot reaching up to 120F (sometimes even 125F) and gradually gets cooler to around 75F. There's no way to keep it cooler than that as right now it's 9pm and the room temperature (outside the cage) is 74F. In the cage it is now 77F.

Today I was out from 6am until now, and have no idea if they ate any cricket.. The small one I have seen it "defecate" the last couple days but there was only water and urate.

What Steve is trying to say is that you can put anything in the cage you'd like too, but it doesn't mean it's usable to them. All those small sticks, are not very usable even for their size. They like thicker logs that they can hide behind them you walk into the room. They also need 'TIGHT' fitting places to squeeze into. Either that be cork (natural not rolls) sheets, cork tubes, hollow logs, a PVC pipe etc.... My 20" V. similis likes to squeeze into a 1-1/4" hole that I hollowed out with a wood cutting drill bit.

Also I didn't get to reply back about the leaves, you DO NOT need to take the bark out, just ADD leaves on top of it. No need to remove it all the little critters in the leaves will help break down waste that you missed during cleaning. I don't know if isopods are native to Brazil but if they are toss a bunch in there.

That's good you covered the sides so that they can't see out.

I still think you need to put a solid top on it, and move the bulb(s) inside, I'll disagree with Steve on one thing I like to have a nicely built insulated cage so that I can make adjustments easier compared to the outside temps (In my area that can change from 110, to 40's) Then I watch my monitors they tell me if something needs to be changed. If it's too hot, or too cold etc...

Cheers,
Chad

I am Retes, FR of Retes boards. Jobi is right, retes boards are only a simple easy method to allow monitors to choose what they want. for sure, its not the only method or even the best method, its a really easy method that works.

Monitors of all types, choose hides they can squeeze into. and I mean squeeze. there are many reasons for this. But a simple way to understand this is, when you sleep what do you do and why? Your answer is the same as theirs.

They want to feel secure, much like you. You do not sleep on the middle of a highway with cars zooming by, do you?
Monitors also want to feel secure. They do not want to rest feeling like their going to die at any moment. You do not consider the life of a monitor. Snakes eat them. So they must rest in places they cannot be consumed by snakes. So they cram themselves into super tight holes of the right temperature. The right temperature varies with their needs at the time, so they need a number of different temps in a number of different hides of their choice. Not that silly thing that sticks to the glass. That may fool you, but it won't fool the monitors, they know one side is open, the glass side. having one side open is not secure.

Ok, enough for now. think about what is said here, thanks,
FR

Ok, so today I went to the local plant marked and found the cork tubes by accident. Unfortunatelly they only had short ones, but I can glue 2 together to make longer ones. I bought 3 tubes for each cage.

I also bought some live and dehydrated moss. They had no dry leaves, so I thought I could use some moss instead. If you guys think it is not OK, I can go for some leaf litter this weekend.

There was no time to look for plywood and make the stacks (I can try during the weekend).
Anyways, some of the cork tubes have thin walls and might do the trick (or not, you tell me).

Here's how it got after covering the floor:

They seemed pretty confortable with me opening the cage and putting the furniture in, the big one was trying to leave the cage all the time and wasn't shy to climb on me.

I also found this, which indicates someone did eat a cricket at some point

And this are the cages with the tubes and moss. I tried to position at least one tube close to the heat spot so they would have a hidden warm place to be. So far they prefer to bask exposed.

Another thing I noticed, I was keeping the UV tubes off during the last 2-3 days. Today I turned it on and it seemed to encourage them to bask. I have also seen them a few times over the last week basking under the UV, while outside the heat spot. Should I leave it turned on or is it just another source for stress?

Do you guys think it is OK now or do I still have to build the stacks??

Now with all this stuff the humidity went right up to 99%.

I had to open a slight bit of the top screen. The cooler side is also 80F.

Heres the thing, your trying way to hard. And your making the cage all about you. Not about the monitors.

Lets sit down and think a bit. Many people decorate their cages in a fashion they think the monitor comes from. I call it a post card from, in your case, indo. So you think indo is all tropical and such, so you decorate your cage that way.

The reality is often very different. What you should be concerned with is what is the mirco habitat that your particular species uses.

If you have ever been in the field with varanids, you will notice, they are NOT FROGS.

Normally all varanids seek areas that are dry and sunny even in tropical areas. They are sun lovers, they are not frogs.

In your case, with prasinus, they seek open sunny areas, they seek a decent shelter, with easy access to areas where the sun hits. The shelters also have access to the sun, so the animals can control their temps without exposing themselves to danger.

So they live in drier sunnier areas at the edge of thick foliage. They are green because they normally untilize low plants, shrubs, not trees. Tree dwellers are normally a darker color to match the bark of trees. Often tropical large lizards are green as neonates as they use the bushes and green plants, then are they become larger, they move into actual trees and are often darker. Spinytailed iggies are a good example of this.

In your case, you should be provided what the monitors needs, not what you think the tropics looks like.

All I see in your cage pics is a post card from the tropics and nothing a monitor would actually live in.

You need, A series of shelters cool side, up to under the basking lite(hot spot) Retes boards provide from under the lite, very hot, under the first layer, 25F degrees less, under the second layer, etc etc down into the substrate which is your base cool temp. That is the advantage of a retes stack. If you choose to use better looking tools, then you must know what your doing and provide them where they Need to be. So retes boards are a great beginer tool. No offense, but in your case, you do not know what your doing. So why do you choose to risk your animals because you want your cage to look pretty. Ok, done for now. Cheers and good luck

Ok.

I will start all over, from zero.
I actually tought that way of making stacks was for ground dwellers.

I'll remove all the branches, make it cleaner and more open. No aesthetics anymore.

I hope I post a more decent cage next time.

Starting over may be a good idea but...It doesn't mean you have to have a barren cage. Branches are good just don't use twigs. Aesthetics are fine, just make sure that they don't take priority. Start with a "working" cage and then add to please your eye. Once you have a working system you will start to gain knowledge on what will be pleasant looking AND be a benefit to the monitors.

it was a simple fix, it really was!!

but you complicated everything with neone and balast, dimers and what not?

I posted not to pleas you but to give your lizards a fighting chance. what do I know about prasinus? well for start I am the only person who kept the 6 know localities, I was the first to keep marcrai and the only to keep the yet unamed yellow and silver morph. thru the years iv been 4 times to png and leaving next month on my sailboat for the moluccan sea where I will study varanids and avians for few years to come.
also iv kept groups of prasinus none stop sins 1981 and still do.

I know more about there needs then I do about any other animals, never talked about them much to keep newbies away from them.

all you needed was a simple 25w, you alredy had the domes to spred the heat. I can teel you from first hand experience prasinus dont want any part of too much humidity, in nature they spend most days dry and even if it rains they have plenty of shelters. they do breed more when it rains because rain washes sent and no borders mean females are accesible, less fight more breedings.
now if you want to lern how to keep monitors, trash all them books, belive me they arent any good.
all they doo is teach you how to fail as a herper, keep whatever animal you chouse and read about its home, go out and see how this animal lives. spend your money on trips.

forget about all the futile accesories, they are marketing tools that none of the pro breeders use. but no one will tell you this because its 80% of the pet trade revenues.

prasinus Do not NEED 80-100% humidity. That's actually quite ridiculous. 60% is just fine, but honestly worrying about percentages is ridiculous as well. Too many people spend too much time staring at a gauge and forget to watch their animals to find out what they are asking for.

I don't worry about %% I look for feel, and condensation if the glass is not fogged up some, it's not humid enough for prasinus. Fogging starts at around 70% or so at least in my cages. Which towards the bottoms is always fogged up to some extent.

Were talking about a species that lives in a wet jungle that is mostly 90-100% humidity most of the year.

I also watch how my animals (though I do not keep prasinus) react to humidity and temps not watching the % heck I don't even have a % reader anymore.

Cheers,
Chad

condensation actually has nothing to do with humidity...That is a very common misunderstanding. You can get condensation in a cage with 30%RH.