Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Alright I have a 7 month old dragon It's been to the vet the vet says he has a low # of pinworms and didn't recommend treating him and just follow up with a regular fecal floats to watch the count and says he should be fine. Untill about 10 days ago he decreased his eating down to about and now a third of what he was eating while growing. In the morning I help him get a meal in him a few crickets and about 6 superworms after he eats he will bask for a couple of hours then go under his rocks and push sand around and lay down for the rest of the day I pull him out and put him under the light and he'll stay there for 30 minutes and go back under the rocks. So now I'm wondering should I stop feeding him and put him down for a brumation period? The temps are right and he is not losing any weight. What would you do? I am going to take in another fecal float and ask if it's safe to start brumation while having pinworms. I've heard brumation and parasites end up turning deadly to dragons. He's just not active or eating like he was. Anyone have any better ideas?

I'd treat with Panacur for the pinworms. I always do. Coccidia is OK in low numbers but pinworms should be treated.

7 months seems too young to brumate and I certainly wouldn't encourage it. What is his weight?

I don't ever push my dragons to brumate. Some make the decision on their own. I never stop feeding them they just stop eating even though food is offered.

he is about 17" and weighing at about 330 grams. The vet told me the opposite saying coccidea must be treated and pinworms are ok at low numbers. I've got some panacur .15 ml but I don't know the strength. Are you serious about pinworms need to be treated and coccidea is ok at low #s. If my dragon dies cause the vet is wrong I'll be ticked off. I just had the pinworms checked out a month ago and the vet said don't worry about it.

I think your vet is confused. My suggestion is always to do your own research and make your own decision. My recommendation is what you will find is pretty standard. Others should post later with similar suggestions.

I would consider calling your vet and ask him if he is sure you should not be treating the pinworms. My concern is that maybe he saw coccidia and called it pinworms. Even if he stands by his original diagnosis it may put enough question in his mind to check into it for his next patient.

Coccidia is treated with Albon which carries the risk of causing Yellow Fungus Disease. I only use it and treat coccidia when it is absolutely necessary. Pin worms are treated with Panacur which has proven to be very safe. Breeders here have posted that they even use it as a preventative which i don't agree with but it gives you an idea of the perceived safety.

I think 330 is too small to brumate. I would retest your setup and make sure the temps. are correct. Possibly they have declined as the seasons have changed.

Hi, I'm just wondering how long after the vet visit your dragon began to hide. Sometimes a frightening experience will cause them to retreat for a while to where they feel safe. His size is O.K. do go into a " partial brumation" which is what I think he's doing. They will do that for various reasons at times.

Talked with the vet they said pinworms were at 8 eggs at last fecal in july. She prescribed three doses of panacur and told me to recheck the temps. Taking him outside which I hate doing scares the hell out of him, he just flips out, so I haven't taking outside for a month, figured I can try again next year.
The temps are all up about 5 degrees since I added the 2nd big cage to the room but still 75 on the cool side. I changed the set up so he can't hide under the rocks where its cold and he's basking again and running around again but not chasing crickets. Hopefully this don't get too serious.

Well I have the vet treating his pinworms now with panacur. I also bought the Zilla temp controller. I spent all day adjusting it so my ambient temps are about 90 give or take a few and the basking spot is at 105. I tried feeding him crickets but not eating them like he usually does but he will chase my hand across the whole cage if I'm holding a superworm. So I think all I can do now is watch for him to start chasing crickets again, I even have a shallow dish I put crickets in where they try to climb out but don't realize all they have to do is jump out. If anyone has any ideas that might help let me know.
Thanks

I have a small female that is in the high 300's at about 18 months. I no longer feed her crickets because she now lives with her mom who is sleeping. I give her 12 supers and salad everyday. She eats some everyday and continues to gain weight slowly. The season has reduced her activity significantly as you describe with yours. So even with reduced activity her weight still increases.

My other thought is that I always have feeding times. You could try it. Once a day is fine with a 300 dragon. I put crickets in, wait 20 mins or so and take out any that remain. Even my rescues learn and adapt to eating heavily when the crickets are there rather than being lazy if they're always there. It also keeps roaming crickets out of and from eating dragon poo before your dragon eats them, which is very important with controlling parasites.

He will chase my hand if I'm holding a superworm but he wont chase crickets. I leave him salad all day everyday and I think he may have taken a bite of greens. Now that he's been treated with panacur his stool was like a log instead of mush, which might be a good thing. I tried the 20 minute feed time tonight and will continue to ubtill he realizes he better eat. This BD project is costing a fortune having to deal with the vet but I love my dragons and will do the best I can. I just don't know anyone who owns a BD. Thanks for your help

Well I took out the cold rock caves but my ragon keeps taking naps allday. So I put a empty cereal box in his cage and within minutes he climbed inside the box. He'll still eat superworms but just wants to hide. Is this a semi-brumation? what would you do?
thanks

I'd let him do what he feels he should do. Keep the basking site available along with the cooler hide. If he comes out offer him food. Then monitor his weight weekly. If he doesn't eat and doesn't lose weight he's fine.