Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Welcome to kingsnake.com's message board system. Here you may share and discuss information with others about your favorite reptile and amphibian related topics such as care and feeding, caging requirements, permits and licenses, and more. Launched in 1997, the kingsnake.com message board system is one of the oldest and largest systems on the internet.

Click for ZooMed

newbie from NYC with questions. please!

pdrobber Nov 05, 2010 05:48 PM

Hello everyone! Peter here from NYC. I have been looking into getting a corn snake for the past few weeks and finally adopted one! My yearling albino is about a foot long, still pretty skinny and was introduced to me moving around in her previous owners' hands comfortably in the hustle and bustle of a NYC street. Since I just got him/her yesterday I put her right in the 20gallon long tank with a full brick of eco earth. Is this ok to use? I have 2 hides, one on the light heated side and one on the dark side. I also have a large bowl in there for her to soak in, drink from, etc.

I have a 75W basking uva ulb above the one rock hide which can also serve as a basking spot. The thermometer right next to it on the glass reads about 85 Fahrenheit.

I have a reptitherm uth but I'm skeptical about using it. I don't want to risk it 1-cracking the glass, 2- melting the plastic storage drawer units I have the tank on, 3-I'd like to have a light as well and fear that would be TOO much heat, 4- heard it can't really be removed/repositioned without leaving a mark/ruining the heater.

When I arrived at home I took the snake out of the container and handled it a bit, it seemed very curious/scared and I was nervous as well not to hurt it, scare it, agitate it. I was told the snake has never bitten and was handled regularly so I'd like it to stay this way. It has been hiding under the substrate (not even just in the hide but under the substrate) all day. I moved the hides, water bowl, substrate around frantically looking for the snake and did.

I plan to get some fake leaves to cling to the sides and a nice climbing branch as well as some images to put around the 3 sides.

Should I put less substrate in? Should I wait a week before going in the tank attempting to handle to allow it to settle in, get used to smells, sounds, lights or go right in because it has had human contact before? What is the best way to get a snake used to a new owner?
Image

Replies (13)

a153fish Nov 05, 2010 06:14 PM

Hey Peter congratulations on your new snake! What I am going to say is my opinion from my personal experiences so take that with a grian of salt. I'm sure others will chime in also. First off my immediate concern is the top or lid on your aquarium. I can't tell you how many snakes I've heard of and have personally lost because of a loose fitting top. Many pet shops will sell tops which they claim to be for reptiles but if there is any space at all and it's not tight, the snake will find it's way out. Especially if you are gonna help it by adding things to climb on. Secondly, the UTH is the best way to heat one side of the tank. Position it so that it only heats up about half or maybe even a third of the bottm. Make sure you have one with an adjustable switch where you can turn it up or down as needed. Also thermeters stuck on the glass do not give accurate temps. Good digital themometers can be found at places like radio shack for about 15 bucks. Or maybe you can find one online. Place the probeunder the substrate so it is in contact with the floor. This will give you the highest possible temp that the snake might experience. Basking lights are not needed and may even dry the air out too much. If you must have light get a small flourescent light and I would turn it off as much as possible. I would only use it when I wanted to observe the snake then turn it off when I'm done. The bright lights might be why he was under the substrate, but they do this regardless. Just keep in mind Corn snakes tend to be nocturnal. So they shy away from bright lights. You may want to give him two hides? One on the warm end and one on the cooler end. This lets the snake decide what he wants. Don't be too worried about handling him, with the exception of after meals. You want to give him time to digest the meals before handling. Once you can't see the lump very much, then it's ok. I'm not familiar with the substrate but it sounds ok. I never let my snakes eat on the substrate no matter what it is. I use paper lunch bags which I roll up and place back in his cage. You can use deli cups or margarine tubs with air holes, or whatever else you fancy. Did I miss anything?
-----
King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
J Sierra

tspuckler Nov 05, 2010 06:57 PM

In addition to what Jorge said, albino animals are very sensitive to bright light. This is especially true of snakes, which have no eyelids. Please stop using that light for that snake. An undertank heater set at the proper temperature is all you need.

Also, I would not handle the snake until it has eaten several times. Handling the snake stresses it out. The snake is already stressed at being in a new environment and under a bright light. Leave the snake alone and give it time to adjust to its new surroundings.

Lastly, if this is your first snake, I'd get a book. Kathy Love and Don Soderberg both have written excellent, inexpensive books specifically on keeping Corn Snakes.

Tim
Third Eye
Third Eye

pdrobber Nov 05, 2010 07:12 PM

thanks so much for your input! i'm set to buy a thermostat, book, leaves, branch and other stuff tomorrow! what kind of thermostat do you recommend using? i have a zoo med uth.

mrkent Nov 05, 2010 09:40 PM

I recommend the Newtek rheostat. I have seen them at pet stores, but not all carry them. You can also get them from the Bean Farm online.

I place the rheostat temp probe on the glass under the hide with scotch tape. I also tape a digital thermometer temp probe right next to it. You can get those from most pet stores or the Bean Farm, too. This allows you to get the temp right where you want it.

As far as getting too hot for the plastic shelf or the accessories in the tank, not a worry when using a rheostat.


-----
Kent

0.1 Hypomelanistic striped cornsnake
1.1 Hypo (het lavender, striped) cornsnake hatchlings
2.2 Normal (het hypo, lavender, striped) cornsnake hatchlings
1.2 Gray-banded kingsnakes, blairs phase
1.1 Oregon rubber boas

mrkent Nov 05, 2010 10:03 PM

I use those for all my snake cages, but I only have 5. I am not sure what the guys with way more snakes use.
-----
Kent

0.1 Hypomelanistic striped cornsnake
1.1 Hypo (het lavender, striped) cornsnake hatchlings
2.2 Normal (het hypo, lavender, striped) cornsnake hatchlings
1.2 Gray-banded kingsnakes, blairs phase
1.1 Oregon rubber boas

a153fish Nov 05, 2010 10:21 PM

Hey Kent are you using that with heat tape? Or with a rubber type uth? I used one of those a long time ago on a home made incubator. But these days I just control the temp in a small utility room where I keep all my snakes. It is also warm enough to incubate the eggs without any other heat source.
-----
King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
J Sierra

mrkent Nov 05, 2010 11:02 PM

I use them with the Ultratherm undertank heater. They come in a variety of sizes, and have no adhesive. I attach them to the underside of the tank with scotch tape.
-----
Kent

0.1 Hypomelanistic striped cornsnake
1.1 Hypo (het lavender, striped) cornsnake hatchlings
2.2 Normal (het hypo, lavender, striped) cornsnake hatchlings
1.2 Gray-banded kingsnakes, blairs phase
1.1 Oregon rubber boas

a153fish Nov 06, 2010 03:50 AM

.
-----
King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
J Sierra

pdrobber Nov 06, 2010 08:17 PM

just had to share. I took my snake out when I got home today (carefully) and at first it tried getting away quickly and hiding but I was persistent, and it ended up just peacefully and comfortably moving through my fingers for awhile. I have a feeling i'm going to be a snake person for the rest of my life :D along with already being a cat/dog/tortoise person.

DMong Nov 06, 2010 09:11 PM

Very nice that you held it some delicately. Generally when young corns are first grasped, they might struggle just a bit initially, but most soon calm down when they don't feel there is an immediate threat from the big bad "MONSTER" of death!..LOL!

Looks like you and the snake are well on your way to a good trusting relationship!

~Doug
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

my website -serpentinespecialties.webs.com

KevinM Nov 06, 2010 10:36 PM

Since you are using a good sized tank, I would just go to a local drug store and get a three setting heat pad. You can set on low or medium and just put the pad underneat one end of the tank to cover around one third of the bottom. I have found heat pads to be very well made and provide a great temp when set on low to medium. The cost of a three setting heat pad will probably be less than the thermostat at a pet shop and with the cloth cover is pretty safe on furniture. Just a suggestion.

mrkent Nov 06, 2010 10:47 PM

It's funny but that is what I used when I first started keeping corn snakes back in the late 70s. Never had a problem, and didn't even use a thermometer.
-----
Kent

0.1 Hypomelanistic striped cornsnake
1.1 Hypo (het lavender, striped) cornsnake hatchlings
2.2 Normal (het hypo, lavender, striped) cornsnake hatchlings
1.2 Gray-banded kingsnakes, blairs phase
1.1 Oregon rubber boas

KevinM Nov 08, 2010 10:05 AM

Based on cost and effectiveness, its hard to beat a regular three setting heat pad. Thats all I used back in the day before rack systems, etc. LOL!! Never had issues with burning, too hot, or any of the weird things that can happen with the heat tape and thermostats nowadays.

Site Tools