Anyone have any tricks on how to keep snakes from moving around while photographing them. I had a very frustrating day with the camera.
This is the best I could do.

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Anyone have any tricks on how to keep snakes from moving around while photographing them. I had a very frustrating day with the camera.
This is the best I could do.

First of all, beautiful snake and pic!
What I do is use a hidebox/bowl for taking pics. I put the snake under the object, then wait about a minute. This gives the snake time to curl up somewhat, and relax. Then, get your focus ready, and lift the hidebox/bowl up, and start shooting as quick as you can. The snake may move a little bit, but if you are gentle and slow moving, they may not dart off as much, and stay pretty much settled.
For me, this has worked tremendously well.

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Genesis 1:1
The photo I posted was a similar scenario. I had just scooped Limey from his hide and he was still waking up. The other snake I tried to photograph was moving non-stop. I'll try your idea. Thanks!
One that can be used with good success is to place your snake under a hide of some sort for a few minutes... focus in on the hide... lift it off... quickly get a few pictures. Looks like your picture could have been done using that technique.
Best you could do? Give yourself some credit, lots of people in the forums would be happy with that as a portrait of their snake 
Gerry
But at least you can see it's a fairly common technique, lol.
Gerry
Yeah I like that shot you took too. Some snakes are demons when it comes to slowing them down for photos. One day they can be flying all over the place, the next day not nearly as much.
I've been using some advice from Zonatahunt that has worked for me most the time. Well at least 8 out of 10 snakes it seems to work. Try running them on a glass table or an open floor, let them tire themselves out after a few minutes, then try posing them for your shot.
A couple more things I do that work too. Once the snake is holding his position, but you really would like to move it's head or reposition it slightly, instead of moving the snake w/ my hand (they always want to fly away from the hand coming in) I use a small stick, maybe 8 inches long, to move the head or tail. It doesn't seem to bother them as much.
I also have a friend that takes his photos after the snake has eaten. They are much less likely to want to move to much after eating. It works, but I don't employ this technique to often. I've never had one regurgitate when using it, but I do worry about it happening.
Hope this helps.
-Dell

~

I too appreciate the tips. And these are two FANTASTIC photos!
--Dennis
Good question from the OP. Good tips in the follow ups. Probably better than my idea of using my staple gun. J/K 
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BigT
There is a difference between ignorance and stupidity. The ignorant can be taught, stupidity is beyond our control.
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Good question from the OP. Good tips in the follow ups. Probably better than my idea of using my staple gun. J/K
Heh! No wonder your snake looks so pissed off!
I was going to try double stick tape...
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Bob/Chris
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
"No! I don't wanna!"

As the others have mentioned the inverted bowl works great. Above shot taken before learning about bowl! LOL!
By the way, your Thayeri is awesome! The photo is not bad, either!
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Bob/Chris
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
You got a really nice shot... I'd kill for a photo like that 4-5yrs ago...
Here's a shot from 2004: I was pretty happy with then, but wouldn't use now...

the more pix you take, the better it will get.. you may learn a trick for a set of animals that "never fails" ... A good camera is always a good idea too. 
There is no short answer to this one and no set rules... use what works ... Change your methods as you go to suit the animal you're working with
i use various methods. the 1st was the dark hide: but sometimes the snake isn't in the position you want.

2. for smaller snakes (even for some of the big ones) ... i coil them round and round in a circle, place them down, cover their bodies (mainly their heads and what ever else fits under my hand), when they stop moving i lift my hand and get the shot quickly... some snakes stay long enough for you to get varied shots.


3. smaller snakes are placed in a clear container, white background, i use a lid or my hand as a cover... wait for calm... take a quick shot.

4. the day after feeding usually works well (like TerryD said) , the snakes don't move around as much... but taking the pix MAY stress them an have them regurgitate (which you don't want)

5. Take the snake from it's hide where it's already coiled and settled, place it where i want to take the pic... take a quick shot (this has to happen fast!) ... works with some not all.

6. if i pick up a snake and it's very hyper, i let it run through my fingers for a while, some calm down and will allow you to pose them slightly. (these two "hate" photos... well at least that's what i tell myself... so i use the above method)


7. take the shot for the animal's enclosure... as soon as you lift the hide; take the shot.

Hope that helped... overall what you need to remember is do what works. If you're working with a number of animals, keep in mind they are not all the same so the same method won't work for all the animals... Also, snakes go through moods just like we do so if the snake isn't having it... don't stress the animal... put it away, try the following day.
~ZF
Those are some great tips. You have some beautiful photos there.
I think I need a little help on my depth of field also. I'd prefer that the entire snake was in focus. I guess I need to improve my light source so I get a larger f-stop?
Don't know what you're using for a camera but many of them allow you to adjust the shutter speed as well. I'm guessing since you said "improve my light source" you aren't using flash... so you should be able to lower the shutter speed which allows you to increase the f-stop. Many digital cameras also allow you to increase the exposure a stop or two through menu options... could also adjust the ASA rating higher if the camera allows that as well, higher ASA rating may lower the image quality though... it usually isn't that bad unless you're planning on enlarging the photos
Just a few free options in case improving your light source means buying something.
Gerry
I have a Canon Digital Rebel.
I was just checking out the manual and it does have an Av (aperture-priority) and a A-DEP (automatic depth-of-field) mode. I've had the camera for 8 or 10 years and must admit, I've never used either. I think I have some reading to do.
I do have an external TTL flash, but my batteries were dead. Bought some new ones last night, so that should help.
Thanks to everyone who replied offering help!
I don't know a lot about cameras, so I got a digital one that pretty much does it automatically. But I have noticed that when I use the flash it keeps a better focus even though the animal might move. The down side is I don't like the glare I get many times with a flash. Even if I taje the picture at an angle to reduce the amount of flash returning directly back at the camera, it still affects the color of the snake. When I use secondary lighting the animal has to stay perfectly still.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
J Sierra
Something that helps IMMENSELY is to by two sets of rechargable batteries and an inexpensive charger. That way, when the one set runs low and needs recharging, you can swap them for the fully-charged ones. This will save you TONS of money on batteries!
I wouldn't have it any other way! 
~Doug

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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing" 
my website -serpentinespecialties.webs.com
The hide bowl technique works great. Got this head shot of one of my 2010 hatchlings that way . . .
I took some outdoor pics last year, on a warm day. I have a Nikon S200, and I used the zoom feature after taking the pics to get some decent head shots.
I let them climb a little in some small trees, and a small section of fencing, and ended up with a few good shots.
Sorry they aren't kings.
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Kent
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