Just in case my snakes mate and I don't see the lock happen, I would like to see pictures of what to expect should any of my females become gravid.
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Bob/Chris
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
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Just in case my snakes mate and I don't see the lock happen, I would like to see pictures of what to expect should any of my females become gravid.
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Bob/Chris
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
>>Just in case my snakes mate and I don't see the lock happen, I would like to see pictures of what to expect should any of my females become gravid.
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>>Bob/Chris
>>Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
Bob you should be able to even count the eggs before she lays them. Just let her run thru your hands and gently press your index finger under her belly and feel the bumps. They should also swell up very noticable in the back third of her body. Your getting anxious aren't you ha haa! I'm looking forward to this years breedings to!
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
J Sierra
Thanks for the excellent information!
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Bob/Chris
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
Just in case my snakes mate and I don't see the lock happen, I would like to see pictures of what to expect should any of my females become gravid.
A female can appear to be gravid when she is ovulating. So the real question is when i should remove my male from the females cage?
Lots of people remove the male to early when they feel lumps. Only to discover the female missed her chance of fertilizing the eggs because the male was removed. Then she lay unfertilized eggs.
My suggestion is to wait until the female has lumps in her for about a month. Then when she goes into shed (aka into the blue) remove the male so he won't eat the eggs. Egg laying usually take place 1-0 days AFTER shed.
Your male may hookup sevral times with the female in the next month before laying. Let them do their process to insure fertization of the eggs.
I have a feeling that you will know when she is truly gravid. She will have lumps and/or she may refuse food. Lay on a hotspot, nest ect.
If you have a lay-box the female would also start the nesting process. Which is another strong indicator she is going to lay.
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www.Bluerosy.com

Yeah that's a good point Rainer. I had a female that already had lumps before I placed the male with her and the eggs were fertile. I wasn't going to breed her but when I felt the eggs in her I decided to do it after all. All went well.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
J Sierra
Thanks, this is more great information. I already have maternity tubs ready for my females when the time comes. The maternity tubs will have all the amenities needed for successful nesting and egg laying, including a very small water bowl so she doesn't lay her eggs in the water bowl, an unfortunate thing that happened to a friend of mine last summer.
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Bob/Chris
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
including a very small water bowl so she doesn't lay her eggs in the water bowl, an unfortunate thing that happened to a friend of mine last summer.
This rarely happens and then only when a proper nesting area is not provided.
Same goes for kings that eat each other. When they starve they cannibalize. Just because someones king ate the other does not mean they all do. Even humans cannibalize each other when starving.
If a snake does not go through the proper nesting rituals then something is wrong. Laying in a water bowl is desperation of not finding any humid suitable spot. For instance a container with a large (high) top like a tupperware box does not make a suitable spot. That is why i use boards or glass and cover the area. The snake will make a next under that and it feels secure and tight. Not feel like it is out in the oopen. A water bowl sometimes feels more secure to a snake because it feels enclosed and they can curl up in it when nothing else is around..
But taking away the water from a gravid female is pure torture because they really need to drink a lot then.. I guess a small bowl will work if it does not spill during nesting and you keep it filled daily. However, females tend to shovel around a lot during pre-lay (nesting) period and something like a small water bowl can get overturned quite easily!
Everybody has got to figure out what works best for the snake and not for themselves.
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www.Bluerosy.com

With what you have said about a suitable nesting site, I will create a moist sphagnum moss area covered by a glass casserole dish.
Sort of like this only deeper and larger:

with another cover over that to add privacy. My friend whose' snake laid her eggs in the water dish, he didn't have her in a moist sphagnum moss type set up, just a dry bedding cage. He didn't expect her to lay her eggs so soon so was unprepared for the event. I don't like making anything go without adequate water, either.
I'm glad I started this topic! Learning very useful things!
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Bob/Chris
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
Bob,
it is best to just turn half of the enclosure into a nesting site.....cover it with a board or plastic lid and she'll make a nest and lay under the board........Very different than just placing a tub of moss in there that they'll sometimes miss......
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

That makes sense. To get my fence lizards to lay in a suitable spot (not have the eggs dry out from being dropped in open air) I have half the bottom of the box be moist substrate. They also like a board over the spot they choose to excavate for eggs. I have a square of plexiglass that I can lay over a large moist area for the snake, to give her that tight secure feeling. Already what with everyone's' great advice I have envisioned a maternity ward any lady should like! Enough space so as to not be overlooked, tight fitting for security, easy for her to modify as she chooses, and privacy; if they mate I feel hopeful I will get eggs. Then I can pester everyone for how to hatch them! LOL!
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Bob/Chris
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
>>Just in case my snakes mate and I don't see the lock happen, I would like to see pictures of what to expect should any of my females become gravid.
>>
>>A female can appear to be gravid when she is ovulating. So the real question is when i should remove my male from the females cage?
>>
>>Lots of people remove the male to early when they feel lumps. Only to discover the female missed her chance of fertilizing the eggs because the male was removed. Then she lay unfertilized eggs.
>>
>>My suggestion is to wait until the female has lumps in her for about a month. Then when she goes into shed (aka into the blue) remove the male so he won't eat the eggs. Egg laying usually take place 1-0 days AFTER shed.
>>
>>Your male may hookup sevral times with the female in the next month before laying. Let them do their process to insure fertization of the eggs.
>>
>>I have a feeling that you will know when she is truly gravid. She will have lumps and/or she may refuse food. Lay on a hotspot, nest ect.
>>
>>If you have a lay-box the female would also start the nesting process. Which is another strong indicator she is going to lay.
>>-----
>>www.Bluerosy.com
>>
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

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