Bob, your getting close, its stuns you, so what, I report what I do, what I recieve by doing it. I do not sell UV bulbs, nor do I sell regular litebulbs, I have no benefit to be gained from recomending or not recomending a type of bulb.
What you miss is, UV bulbs were what was recomented before I came along. It has not effected the success or failure other others. Has it???? have you spawned keepers that are highly successful?
Which is not the point either. I report what I do. Thats it, why would I not? I do not use UV bulbs.
I learned way before I kept varanids that its not only not needed, But worse, people think it will eliminate problems, just because they have a UV bulb. Which is SOOOOOOO not true. People(keepers) fail, using UV bulbs and without UV bulbs. That is so totally true its rediculis.
The actual truth is, its about work, most are not willing to put in the work. Most, want varanids to be corn snakes. Something you can feed once a week and all is well. Sorry monitors are not for them.
Lets take this a different direction. Several of the BIG reptile breeders, Ok, whats a big breeder, lets say, those that produce over 50,000 units a year. Several of those folks took an interest in breeding monitors for the pet trade. Once instructed on how, they did what they do with other reptiles, took it to a commerical level, they apply techniques to allow the mass production of monitors. So far, they reported back, varanids are fun, but too much work, more importantly, to much work on an individual basis.
For instance, in your case, your successful with the species that can be FORCED to nest in a box. The species that resist that, you do not keep long. That you do not say, these things is your problem. You see, we all can do what we want. I knew one great reptile breeder that died a while back. He could actually bred anything he wanted, but he would say, if they do not hibernate, I will not keep them. he did that because, of his own wishes. He wanted time off. he would tell me, maybe I try lacies, they hibernate in the south.
Which brings up another point. You somehow make it about right and wrong. Its not. This stuff is what it is. We both are doing well, yet you cry like a little baby, and yes, you saying and rationalizing IS WITHOUT QUESTION crying like a little baby.
Grow the heck up BOB. If you were concerned about this in a real way, you would discuss how both work. Truely the approach I take has a system, that is, to do one you have to have another part as well. For instance, to have really hot basking areas, like they do in nature, you cannot have an open type cage, not inside. The reason is simple, the more air you heat, the faster the cage drys out. so we close the cage, use less electricity and heat a small area very hot with the bulb being very close. One will not work without the other.
For instance, you must use a large wattage bulb and have it at distance from the surface, this heats large amounts of air and causes lots of air movement. This drys out the lizards, and you blame retes boards. Cover the cage, lower the lites, and retes boards work great. It really does not take a lot of brain power to figure that out.
Why I say, get out and look at the animals. Monitors in nature behavior in a water conservation mode, at all times. Even desert monitors only expose themselves to humid air, early mourning late evening, etc, after rains like crazy, etc etc. They do this to conserve moisture. Which is EXACTLY NATURAL. which is what our method duplicates. Putting lids on cages in order to replicate humid air. Not wet substrate.
What that in mind, you do not show your cages, or what you do. So all we have is guesses at how you fail. We all fail sir, you just hide yours.
You just remind me of a dry bearing, you squeak like crazy, and soon you will fail. Simple fix, oil the bearings. Cheers hahahahahahahahahahahaha that one is really dumb on my part, but I like it.ahahhahahahahahahahaha
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