Reptile & Amphibian Forums

The camera really fades the blue but heres the newest addition.
Any chance on being able to tell the sex by the last two pictures?

37
You have a male there.
What do you do with the lamp that's hanging when you spray?
Mike
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Mike's Monitors!

Very cool monitor! It's huge!

I'd provide more choices for it in that cage.

What do you mean by more choices? As far as heat goes there's a strong spot light at the top and you can see on the side is a ceramic bulb. Its a 6ft cage so he seems to be able to regulate his temp well. I also plan to add a nest box if I get a female for him. The logs are all hollow which he utilizes

The one you see in the picture does not give off light its just a ceramic heat emitting bulb. I just spray around the area

Personally I would remove the ceramic and put in another low wattage heat bulb like a 45 watt or something. If you temp gun that ceramic I bet it is in the 300 degree range and will burn him if he jumps on it. Which with the species is likely to happen..

37
I think that lamp is a hazard no matter what is in it.

In this photo on the right you'll see my "light box", it is completely covered and screened from below.
Totatly inacessable to my Monitors.
The top is slightly pitched so spraying doesn't effect any part of the light.
As a bonus this "box" acts as a nice warm basking shelf.

Burns from contact should be a concern of yours.
Good luck, you have a great looking Monitor there!
Mike

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Mike's Monitors!

Mike how do you change their water? do you have a drain, or use a sump/siphone? I am planning on putting a large water base in my new cage and am planing on a cheap sump. Sorry to jack the thread..

Ed
For the water basin (large mortar tub) in that enclosure I would just lift it out and dump it...everyday!

I used a large rubber made trough for my Cumingi and I can tell you pumps and syphons suck!
You'll find that daily crap and substrate in the basin will clog both.

The best way is to either be able to remove it for daily cleaning or use a large drain with a PVC bulk head fitting hooked up to at least 1" PVC pipe.
Mike
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Mike's Monitors!

When using bulbs of appropriate wattages it's not possible to get burns from contact...

Nate
So your telling me that a light bulb burning to create 130 degrees or a little higher basking sight will not burn a Monitor if it comes into contact with the skin of a Monitor?
No matter the wattage it's about heat output, again if the basking sight is 130 or more what is the temperature of the bulb itself?
Mike
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Mike's Monitors!

Mike has a good point there. To be used for a monitor basking spot, it needs to be hot! Lol.

But great looking monitor, beautiful and big! Do you mind how much you got him for? If I remember correctly, you were the one asking what a good price for it would be. Great cage too, what is the base size? 6 feet of climbing space is just right.

Great job buddy!
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Jason

He really doesn't go very close to the fixture but I'm going to put a mesh around it to be safe. Thanks for the suggestions. And yes I got him for $675. The cage is about 4ft wide and 3ft deep. I'm just glad to get him out of the maybe 24"x12"x18" cube he was in

All my bulbs are within reaching distance of my animals, snakes included, all my hotspots for the varanids are over 130F, the snakes spots are 100-110. My monitors unscrewed the bulbs in their cage a short while ago...No burns...You can theorize all you want...but appropriate wattages in the right bulbs..45-65W Will NOT burn the animals if they touch them...if they layed on them for long periods...maybe...but if they did that then there is something more seriously wrong than my bulbs being in touching distance.

Low wattage bulbs are the way to go. I was just warning about the ceramic as I know they get so hot. My montiors touch my bulbs for short periods of time and I use 45-65 watt bulbs. Also a bew bulbs to allow the montors to warm up without cramping under a single source helps to.

I wouls be carful wraping them in screen. Sometimes they hold on to the screen for a while to warm up this can also casue burns. A bank of low wattage bulbs is the best way to go

Ed, you are absolutely correct about the CHE's. They get insanely hot where even a glancing touch can melt your skin. They also ignore the needs for reptiles which is surface temps...CHE's heat air. I could possibly see the use of a CHE in an extremely large cage kept in a COLD room...maybe.

payday is tomorrow...need to replace a bulb...but you get the idea....

Hey she looks funny...

need to replace a bulb...but you get the idea

Do your lights have a lamp concentrating the heat downward or is the light bulb just screwed into a light socket. Just wondering.

Its in a metal lamp, concentrating down-ward since he is sitting on the log below it it seems to be working well

Nate
I have never used that type of bulb as long as I have been keeping and breeding Monitors.

Perhaps you could answer my question...so again what is the surface temperature of those bulbs?

I have always used halogen bulbs, the thick glass gets very hot.
I just took surface temps on my bulbs and it is 228 degrees.
Surely a burn IF CONTACT is made!

Also lets keep this in context, most species of Varanid need more head room than what your photos depict.
Example Tree Monitors!
In these type setups there is a greater distance between light and surface.
Mike

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Mike's Monitors!

"Also lets keep this in context, most species of Varanid need more head room than what your photos depict.
Example Tree Monitors!

What the heck does head room under a basking area and species have to do with anything? Context huh, well to what we are talking about species and type is irrelevant but I'll humor you. Also an interesting note is the basking spot for these prasinus was 190F .

I also don't care what the temp of the bulb is. In practice, bulbs of appropriate wattages don't burn the animals. Electricution??? ...I suspect that your females dying from reproductive failure is much more likely than execution from an unscrewed lightbulb...don't you think Mike?

Never had a female die from reproductive failure.
Why have you turned this thread into TRYING to bash on me and mine...your opinion will not change my ways what so ever!
Have a great day.
Mike

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Mike's Monitors!

No bashing...You mentioned a very unlikely scenario, I mentioned the death from reproductive failure because it's a much more likely occurence than electrocution. This isn't about you Mike, it's about the guy who posted and your advice given to him. I don't care if you change your ways or not. I only care that good information is passed on. I am only presenting an additional viewpoint it was YOU sir who tried shooting down MY advice.

Nate
PLEASE don't call me sir.
We can disagree on everything or nothing...there is always two ways to skin a cat.
I gave good advice with my experience using halogen bulbs!
I guess you also gave good advice on your bulbs as well.
Mike
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Mike's Monitors!

N/P
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Mike's Monitors!

>>Never had a female die from reproductive failure.
>>

Hey brother, I can surely vouch for you there! In all the years we've been best friends/brothers, I have NEVER known you to loose an animal to reproductive failure.
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Mike Heinrich,
Mike@amazontreeboa.org
www.amazontreeboa.org
www.amazon-alliance.com

Having the lights too low to the ground can cause burns...
I agree putting a screen around these lights is a bad idea.

But on the other hand, one thing about screens is I notice a lot of people here start their baby monitors out in empty aquariums. I assmume they are using a screen top to keep the monitor from escaping. As long as their is enough distance from the light to the surface their should not be burns.

Nate
"Unscrewed" the bulb doesn't that expose your Monitor to electrocution?
Mike

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Mike's Monitors!

If you put mesh around a bulb, you are GUARANTEEING a burn. All the mesh/wire does is encourage them to hang on. It seems like a good idea, but it is absolutely not.

And the ceramic bulbs are useless and dangerous for lizard setups. If I want to heat ambient air temps, I would consider using an infrared heat panel, but never a ceramic bulb. Not that I didn't try it years and years ago : )
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robyn@proexotics.com

ShipYourReptiles.com
Pro Exotics Reptiles

Robyn
Thanks for clearing the "contact" with bulbs is a bad thing!
Then you point out non-"contact" will burn them as well.

As you can see in my photo I never mesh in my lights.
The reason I covered the underside of my "light box" is so my Jobiensis could not go into the box for hiding or what ever reason. Preventive medicine!
So I do agree with you that meshing the bulb COULD cause more problems, or not it depends on the application.

With 37 I was more concerned with the light getting wet from spaying.
Mike

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Mike's Monitors!

Nice cage brother!

The one I have that you built and gave me is awesome! I love it!

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mike Heinrich,
Mike@amazontreeboa.org
www.amazontreeboa.org
www.amazon-alliance.com

37
Again you have a male there, and your concern should be about the fixture coming in contact with WATER when SPRAYING...NO MATTER what is in it!!

Great looking Monitor and you can utilize more of the top space in your enclosure. Tangle it up Brother!
Mike

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Mike's Monitors!

Herp37,

I meant providing even more climbing, basking, hiding, etc., choices.

Seems like your walls are climbable, right? If not, I would provide that. My Green Trees spend like half the time like geckos in the walls. It really adds up a lot of useful space.

I'd also quit on ceramic heaters, and would use low wattage flood lights positioned close to the hollow logs, like 6 inches. You could use like a sequence of 3 50 watt floods and you can dim them to achieve the desirable surface temperature (110-120F, or even as high as 150F).

Small lights will save you in electric costs and it is also beneficial for the lizard as it doesn't generate nearly as much heat as bigger lamps, it means they provide adequate basking yet the heat will not spread throughout the enclosure, making it too hot and dry (dehydration is a serious issue with these species).

As for positioning lamps inside the cage, I do this because I was told to, by more experienced keepers. Never had a problem with burns. A couple times I saw my Green Tree jumping over the lamps but sice they are very hot, the lizard will quickly move. After a couple times it seems they learn not to touch the lamps.

Well, I'm in a little rush now, I can give you a couple more advices if you need. Not that I am expercienced...

Here's my cage, to give you an idea:

Cheers,
I hope you enjoy your new arboreal

Great cages to everybody who posted pics.

BasinBoa had a good idea, walls that allow climbing. Tree monitors are usually encountered in the wild on vertical tree trunks just like a gecko. Attach cork tiles, screening, etc. to the side. And like Mike said, give him more branches higher up, he would love it.

But congrats on your gorgeous monitor and good luck!
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Jason

Jason,

Climbable walls are a cool idea but not mine. Pretty much every prasinus type keeper I have seen uses that. Some will use coco fiber liners, cork sheets and all kind of materials.
I particularly use plastic mesh, because my cage is made out of wood, and I thought glueing cork or coco fiber would lead to rot.

My climbable walls were copied from Justin Burokas, aka, Krusty.

These walls also add up a bit of cleaning work, but IMO, they are well worth the trouble.

37
With a good enclosure and husbandry dehydration is not an issue.
I have found thru years of keeping and breeding "Tree" Monitors.
They get all the water they need by daily sparying(soaking), if your enclosure will not except this heavy spraying then dehydration is deffinately going to be a problem.

Raining on them or in your case one beauty is also a great way to interact with him.

Mike
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Mike's Monitors!

Mike,

I didn't know you used to breed Tree monitors.

Would you mind to post a few cage pics to give us a few ideas?