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Baby Savannah Monitor care

methos75 Mar 19, 2011 11:39 AM

Alright,after wanting a Sav for years I finally took the plunge and purchased a baby one but I am quickly finding that the state of care sheets on Baby Savs is crap at best so I like to ask a few questions about their care from other keepers.

Ok I have him in a 30 Gal Long for now, until he gets larger. I do have a bigger custom set-up for him for when he gets larger, but its a bit too big now for him. For Substrate I am using Eco Earth mixed with potting soil, and I have some large flat rocks in there for him to bask on and a few taller ones and some wood for him to climb and perch on. He has two hides, one on the cool side and one on the hot side which he prefers.

Temps on the Warm side hover around 115-120 at his basking area, while the cool side hovers between 85-90 during the day. At night temps are around 75-85 in the tank. I have the humidity in the tank at a constant 80%, which is tricking me up since I can get no consistent answer on rather they need high or low humidity.

Now on to a few questions, is it normal for them to sleep most of the time? I tend to have to wake him up and take him out of his hide other wise he sleeps all day. Once he is up he is active and runs about, so I am thinking this is just because he is new since I have had Tortoises that do the samething for a bit after bring them home. He also spends hours soaking in his water dish. Another thing I have noticed is that he runs the side of his face a lot on rocks and the wood in his tank, could this be mites or is it normal behavior?

He is eating well, he goes after crickets with flourish and he will eat rosey red minnows. But seems to avoid canned Monitor food which I bought him, and live wax worms. Interaction seems good, he is responsive when awake and runs over to the side of the tank when I am near and will come over to my hand when I am in his tank changing water or fixing things in it. He also will go after crickets that I point to with my finger, so he is fairly intelligent.

Replies (9)

robyn@ProExotics Mar 19, 2011 06:52 PM

Get a copy of the Savannah Monitor book by Bennett and Ravi, now out of print, but still available at our site, while they last.

You should widen your temp gradient a bit. A bit higher on the top end, and definitely lower on the bottom end, for daytime temps.

An elevated basking spot will allow you to do this.

And skip canned food, minnows, and other "excitement". Stick with feeder insects and rodents. Pau hana brah.

Best of luck.
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robyn@proexotics.com

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methos75 Mar 19, 2011 08:07 PM

Thanks, I actually used you guys caresheets to set up my tank. I guess I forgot to mention, he does have several basking areas. One flat stone underneath the Basking light itself, and two elevated ones that are right underneath an 100 Watt UVB light. Using a temp Gun, the temp on the elevated spot is right at 140 presently, and the flat stone 115. His diet is mostly crickets, but he only eats 3-5 a day and that is it, but I do leave a few in their for him to hunt as he pleases.

robyn@ProExotics Mar 20, 2011 09:18 PM

You sound like you are on the right track, a few tweaks here and there. I would still like to see it a bit cooler on the cool side.

Given lack of appetite under the current conditions, I would get a fecal done as well. Internal parasites can cause lack of appetite, and Savannah babies typically come loaded with internal parasites.

Best of luck!
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robyn@proexotics.com

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Paradon Mar 20, 2011 03:33 PM

That's a good advice. Rodents is the key to thriving monitors since it's a nutritionally complete food...and insects added for variety.

Heat is also very important just like a lot of people here and elsewhere say. In temperate zones reptiles are only active when the whether and temperature permit them.

JoOaks Mar 20, 2011 12:40 AM

Hello, I care for two savannah monitors and would like to share some information with you. Everything I've learned, I gathered through research (on the forums and other websites, books, scientific articles, etc.) and observation coupled with common sense.

Enclosure:

Size- How large is your custom enclosure? Give him space and he will use it. The notion that an enclosure is too large for an animal is somewhat silly. If you provide an environment that is useful to him, he will use it.

Substrate- Provide a nice, deep substrate layer consisting of moist dirt. You can play with the consistency by adding sand or peat until it is able to hold a burrow. The way I test this is by grabbing a handful and squeezing. If it holds its shape, good, but it should also break apart rather easily when touched. Pack it down lightly and you're good to go. Using this method, my savs have created multiple burrows throughout their enclosure.

You mentioned potting soil, was the bag marked potting soil? Make sure that whatever you're using does not have any additives. I believe, though I'm not entirely sure, that potting soil contains no actual dirt. It's a mix of organic materials and moss with added fertilizers and vermiculite. You don't want that. Instead, buy a bag of top soil, with no additives. Forty pound bags are usually under US$2.

Furniture- Young monitors are prey animals. As such, they will exhibit prey animal behavior, which is to hide. You want your enclosure to allow for that. Create hidden areas all throughout the enclosure. Add a layer of leaf litter that he can bury himself in. Add multiple pieces of cork bark so he can choose to hide in any part of the enclosure. I use leaf litter and cork bark because they are very lightweight and not likely to crush the lizard should something fall. Don't worry about your enclosure looking too "neat" with one hide here and one hide there. If you add lots of hiding areas and multiple basking areas your monitor will utilize every inch of his enclosure.

Temperatures/Humidity- If you haven't already, throw away your screen lid and use a solid cover for your tank. Or better yet, if possible, ditch the tank altogether. The purpose of the enclosure is to retain heat and humidity, which is difficult with a standard aquarium set up. You want the heating element within the tank. Before researching, I used a screen lid with a dome light on top. Now, with a plywood enclosure and my heat originating from within the tank, I can use lower wattages and I don't have to mist at all. My humidity comes from my substrate and water basin and ranges between 70% and 80% in different areas of the enclosure. My monitors shed normally, are active and appear healthy, so I haven't thought too much about the perfect humidity level.

I choose to offer multiple basking spots with as much variety in temperature as possible. These animals need to thermoregulate and are limited to the options we provide. So, for my guys, I have one basking spot that's 160F , one that is 150F , one that is 140F , and one that is 130F . They use all of them. There are also different temps all throughout the enclosure, under a cork piece, on top of that cork piece, inside a burrow, on top of a piece of secure driftwood... You get the picture.

The smaller the sav, the shorter the period of time it takes to heat up. So a higher temperature basking spot might not be necessary for now. Most people agree that 130F is sufficient for baby savs.

Answers:

"Is it normal for them to sleep most of the time?"

One thing I learned from my guys is that FOOD = HEAT = BEHAVIOR. Increase one, and the others will increase as well. In other words, the more you feed, the more they bask, the more they do. You should be feeding your guy daily. Remember though, your monitor wants to hide. Open space is mostly wasted space, especially at this age. Maybe the choices you have provided aren't adequate in terms of heat. Maybe you're not feeding him enough. Again, food and heat support behavior.

"He also spends hours soaking in his water dish."

How do you monitor your humidity levels? Do you house him with a screen lid? Soaking in his dish is normal, but if he does it for extended periods of time, he might not have enough humidity in his environment. Or he might be dehydrated.

"Another thing I have noticed is that he runs the side of his face a lot on rocks and the wood in his tank, could this be mites or is it normal behavior?"

Does he do this randomly or just while eating? My savs do this when they are eating because they need help positioning the food item in preparation for swallowing. Also if they get any of the juicy insect innards on their faces. Or dirt on their noses.

"He is eating well, he goes after crickets with flourish and he will eat rosey red minnows. But seems to avoid canned Monitor food which I bought him, and live wax worms."

I offer my guys a variety of whole food items. Canned monitor diet sounds like a waste of money. Try crickets, roach nymphs, worms, and pre-killed rodents along with a whole bunch of other appropriately sized whole prey items.

"Interaction seems good, he is responsive when awake and runs over to the side of the tank when I am near and will come over to my hand when I am in his tank changing water or fixing things in it. He also will go after crickets that I point to with my finger, so he is fairly intelligent."

On interacting with your guy, here's a post I wrote up a little bit ago. http://forums.kingsnake.com/view.php?id=1885537,1885580

I hope this post is thought-provoking and helpful. Best wishes to your and your monitor.

methos75 Mar 20, 2011 01:05 AM

His current set-up is a 30L reptile tank, 30x12. When I stated the other set-up was too large, I really believe it is. Its a 96x36 cage I got from customcages a while back, and at only 5 inches its just too much IMO for now for him. The substrate I am using a 50/50 mix of Eco-Earth and top soil. I mixed it in with water and using humidity gauges I have 70% humidity in the tank. Its a screen lid I am using, but I wrapped a garbage bag around it to keep in moisture.

I do have several Hides, one vertical hide that he can climb into and hide in near his basking area which he prefers, a low tight one in the cool spot,and there is a rock ledge he can hid under.

He also has three basking area, a flat rock which is around 120-130, a piece of wood that is at 150, and his vertical hide which is around 140 on the top.

ryan_m Mar 20, 2011 07:29 PM

Hey,
Only keep odatria but I agree with Robyn stick with whole foods, insects and whole foods, its proven and works great! Also, stay hands off for now. Keep up the good work and good luck.
Ryan

methos75 Mar 20, 2011 08:26 PM

He is doing much better today, he has been out and about all day and he has eaten around 8 crickets. One little bit of weirdness though is that he killed about four large crickets and instead of eating them, he just piled them up on his rock.

varanid Mar 23, 2011 03:56 PM

I haven't kept savs in a while (mine died two years ago at about 13 years of age). But mine did that with feeder mice once in a while---killed them and dragged them into his hides and (once) into a burrow. Fun times. Never figured out exactly why.
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