Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hi,
Can anyone tell me which ball pythons are known as voracious eaters? I KNOW every snake is an individual animal but I think there are some universally known as great eaters? Just curious if any of my snakes fall into lines with others?

On a side note can anyone give me any pointers on switching from live to f/t'd? I have tried the following without any luck:
- scenting them with live rats
- warming them with the blow dryer after defrosting in warm/hot water
- Kind of iffy about leaving a f/t'd in the tub overnight but if it works for someone??

I have had to trade 5 girl morphs!! I now have a bigger enchi girl that has refused f/t'd so far and no way I am giving up on her too.

V/R Paige

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Balls - 4 Boys, 18 Girls
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

n/p

.....if you want a "voracious eater" forget about a ball python and get yourself a blood.

Pitoon

>>Hi,
>> Can anyone tell me which ball pythons are known as voracious eaters? I KNOW every snake is an individual animal but I think there are some universally known as great eaters? Just curious if any of my snakes fall into lines with others?
>>
>> On a side note can anyone give me any pointers on switching from live to f/t'd? I have tried the following without any luck:
>>- scenting them with live rats
>>- warming them with the blow dryer after defrosting in warm/hot water
>>- Kind of iffy about leaving a f/t'd in the tub overnight but if it works for someone??
>>
>> I have had to trade 5 girl morphs!! I now have a bigger enchi girl that has refused f/t'd so far and no way I am giving up on her too.
>>
>> V/R Paige
>>
>>
>>
>>-----
>>Balls - 4 Boys, 18 Girls
>>other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...
-----
Homepage
My BLOG
2011 European Shows

>>.....if you want a "voracious eater" forget about a ball python and get yourself a blood.
>>
>>Pitoon

lmfao!
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Best regards,
AlanColesReptiles

Or a false water cobra! My firend's ate ten small rats in one sitting and didnt regure or anything.

My spider never says no.
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"What is man without the beasts?
If all the beasts were gone,
men would die from great loneliness of spirit.
For what happens to the beasts,
soon happens to men.
All things are connected."

-Chief Seattle (Duwamish Tribe)

my spider is the pickiest snake i own....
only eats when it wants....always live. refuses f/t
when she is eating she hits like a retic. when shes not shes shy like a fat kid at prom.
adam jeffery
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" a.k.a. farfrumugen "
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

Let me get this straight! You traded away 5 girls, cause they wouldn't eat f/t????? I think Pitoon is right! Maybe Balls aren't for you!

Buzzardball,

Oh no, I traded them for f/t'd eaters. I have 23 that readily eat f/t'd. I would just rather deal with f/t'd instead of live.

Easier for me and nicer for my step-daughter who has pet rats. No smell or having to go to the pet store to pick them up or no raising rats. (cleaning out rat cagees... Yuck! Nasty business!!) Defrosting them very easy!

As far as bloods.... I have been told that they are called blood pythons for a reason... that they are pretty vicious. Is this true?

King of Spades,
I have a spider that is a great eater too!! My clean up crew is an 09 female normal and she will eat anything at any time, except she is getting ready to lay eggs right now. Fingers crossed!!

V/R Paige
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Balls - 4 Boys, 18 Girls
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

there's good and bad in all! don't let rumors stop you from venturing into another species. however if you do get one i would advise you to buy a CB hatchling and grow it up.

just understand that they heavily bodied snakes and need more sq footage than balls = a bigger cage.

once they get to know you they are puppy tame.

Pitoon

>>Buzzardball,
>>
>> Oh no, I traded them for f/t'd eaters. I have 23 that readily eat f/t'd. I would just rather deal with f/t'd instead of live.
>>
>> Easier for me and nicer for my step-daughter who has pet rats. No smell or having to go to the pet store to pick them up or no raising rats. (cleaning out rat cagees... Yuck! Nasty business!!) Defrosting them very easy!
>>
>> As far as bloods.... I have been told that they are called blood pythons for a reason... that they are pretty vicious. Is this true?
>>
>> King of Spades,
>> I have a spider that is a great eater too!! My clean up crew is an 09 female normal and she will eat anything at any time, except she is getting ready to lay eggs right now. Fingers crossed!!
>>
>>V/R Paige
>>-----
>>Balls - 4 Boys, 18 Girls
>>other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...
-----
Homepage
My BLOG
2011 European Shows

Just a thought Paige, but how close to those live pet rats that your step daughter keeps is the ball python who refuses F/T food?
Is it possible the ball python can get a scent of those rats and thinks "they smell waaayyy better than that F/T stuff you are trying to get me to eat"???

Ssnakes,
Definitely something to consider. She is 3 rooms over from me but my bathroom is actually attached to her closet so very close. She keeps her rats right next to her closet. Hmmm. Might have to move my enchi girl to my other rack.

Thanks!! Worth a try for sure!
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Balls - 4 Boys, 19 Girls - 8 babies (4 spiders and 4 normals not out of the egg yet)
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

If you traded 5 girls that were not eating for another that it's not eating in your care.

I would assume your temperature and humidity is off.

Otherwise, just wait and they should get back to eat eventually.
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love this world, don't hate it.

Watever,
I didn't mean I traded 5 for 1. But I have traded them for other snakes in my collection. I have a great snake friend, Jason, who luckily has some really nice trades.

What humidity and temps do you shoot for? I have mine at 90 degrees on the hot end and I mist their tubs nightly. Thx, Paige
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Balls - 4 Boys, 18 Girls
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

try live food?

They can all be strong feeders. You just have to train them how to do it. ALL of my ball pythons eat as if they are retics, I have to use a hook to guard my face from the snakes in the upper levels!

YEARS AGO - Back in 03 when I bought my male pastel for $2k from Mike Wilbanks, we were at the Tinley show that following October. My friends at NERD including the evil morph god were having a drink in the hotel bar. I asked Kevin about how to get my pastel from eating mice to rats since he was eating rats and now only wanted mice. EMG said "Jeff, just give it mice"

The point is, give them what they want to eat. You shouldn't be trading off snakes because they wont eat FT. You should be getting live or breeding rats to have live on hand for your snakes. Ball pythons are capable of being fussy eaters when they aren't happy. Make them happy

Well said. I have a female that eats 5 mice at every sitting, and it doesn't bother me one bit. She would eat gerbils too, but that just costs too much. My rodent guy fills my live order every week, cheaper than buying frozen. They respond to warm blooded animals, i.e prefer live items. Find what they eat and if they don't eat f/t'd feed them live. Everyone's happy and fat. Just my thoughts.

Hello,
Okay enough already seriously. I didn't ask WHAT to feed them I was asking for ft'd pointers.

All but one of my snakes READILY eat ft'd so the tangent on feed them live is uncalled for!! And tiring.

I know some of the others feed ft'd because I have met with and talked to them. BTW all of mine eat RATS which is really nice.

V/R Paige
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Balls - 4 Boys, 19 Girls - 8 babies (4 spiders and 4 normals not out of the egg yet)
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

Also if the ball needs live I get them live by trading them to a good friend who feeds live rats, mice, asf's etc. I try to meet all of their needs.

My personal preference is f/t'd. Didn't think everyone would jump all over me for it nor does anyone have the right to. If I was doing something drastically wrong like bad temps, heat rock etc I could see it.
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Balls - 4 Boys, 19 Girls - 8 babies (4 spiders and 4 normals not out of the egg yet)
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

Since it doesn't really look like anyone is throwing down anything good (on f/t help), here you go.....this is what I tell my customers that ask......

First thing to remember. The key is to get them to take it once....once they get used to it, it should be all downhill after that.

Try feeding at night, with just enough light for you to see......and try to stay out of their line of sight. You might be intimidating them! Oh, and the longer the tongs, the better!

Make sure the rodent is warm to the touch......they need something to key in on!

A hide box can help. Same point as above......they feel more secure, you make the rodent "do the dance" in front of the hidebox may mean better success......

My favorite trick......let's just say your snake is eating live small rats weekly. Try feeding one live weaned rat, and waiting about 15 minutes AFTER he has eaten it, then offering a f/t weaned rat......why? Because once you get a snake feeding, more often than not they stay in that feeding mode for a while. They take one live, and most likely will take ANYTHING you offer them after that......I once had my first 125 ball pythons on f/t, and this trick worked the best. After they take that second meal, they seem to say.....hmmmmmmm.....that wasn't so bad, and then the following week I try JUST a f/t meal.

And yep.....I used to have a female or two that if I left a f/t rodent in their cage overnight, it was gone by morning......again, probably the intimidation thing, or the fact I don't like the "doing the dance" thing forever.....

The younger you get your snake, the easier it is to switch them.......just thought I would throw that in there......

I have heard a few other tricks, like chicken broth, and well.....other things that are too odd for me. Those tricks should do it.....

I don't feed f/t anymore.......I have a great source for live rodents......and I didn't like the fact that if the snake just didn't decided to take f/t that week, and then I offered live, he would take live. Just as Jeff said, give them what they want.......but if you really wanting EVERYTHING to take f/t, maybe those tips will help......

Brandon Boeke
Priceless Pythons

Thanks for the f/t'd techniques.

I am not critiquing those that feed live and if I was a true breeder(not a hobbyist) I am 100% sure I would have to feed live.

It would get tiring and time consuming worrying about feeding f/t'd when with live/pre-killed you just put them in and know nature will take it's course. Usually anyways. Being watchful of scrappy rats that can hold their own.

I am going to try the over night thing as well. I have a Mojave that before reaching 1000 grams, she would only take f/t'd mice. So yes, I accomodate all my snakes just lucky that all take rats now.

V/R Paige
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Balls - 4 Boys, 19 Girls - 8 babies (4 spiders and 4 normals not out of the egg yet)
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

N/P

The thing Brandon said about offering a ft immediately after it eats a live, is my best advice, as well. And, if everything else has been done with humidity, substrate, hide box, night feeding, and trying that and it still isn't working, then I suggest putting another BP in there that does eat ft for awhile. Normally BP's seem to eat best housed alone, but in a rare few a little competition creates interest. Perhaps it's just that they see the others do it, but I think it's the competition for food that kicks in the survival instincts (not unlike using multiple males to induce breeding in reluctant breeders).

Interesting idea.......create competition......show the other one how it's done.....I love learning a new tip.....

As long as they don't strike it at the same time, and do any injury to the other, sounds like something worth trying......

Brandon Boeke
Priceless Pythons

Great ideas!!! I am printing and trying them all!! My enchi girl is a hard sell!! I even left the small f/t'd with her over night. Nope, but another big normal snapped up the rat this am. Going to try letting the rat thaw in fresh rat bedding. If she doesn't eat in a week going to try a live fuzzy rat followed by a small f/t'd rat. Thanks for the great and varied advice!! Paige
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Balls - 4 Boys, 19 Girls - 8 babies (4 spiders and 4 normals not out of the egg yet)
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

The largest breeder I know uses only frozen thawed. They might have 2000 clutches this year. I think they are an exception though.

There are plenty of people here on KS that use f/t, I'm surprised that more of them didn't chime in. Brandon had good points.

Here is something else to consider. I used to freeze rats in the winter and use them during the summer if I ran low. During the summer some would gladly take them, others wouldn't. The ones that did, might not take f/t later in the year if they weren't as hungry, but would take live. Feed your snakes f/t when you can while they are good and hungry, but if they quit early and you want a little more weight on them before breeding, don't be opposed to feeding live at that time. Be flexible.
Mike

Mike,
Thanks. I will definitely be flexible. I don't see it as wrong feeding live so am not 100% against it and I have fed live rat babies to get snakes switched over to f/t'd.

Mice don't seem to bother me as much live but their cages seem to really stink. We have one pet mouse that we ended up keeping because the snakes had switched to f/t'd by the time she was going to get eaten.

If I can get away with f/t'd then I will because that is what I feel comfortable doing. I do listen to what you all say and take it in even if I don't agree with all of it.

Case in point my closest snake buddy, Jason, is 100% against f/t'd but he hasn't made me a convert. Yet, anyways... Happy Breeding!!! Paige
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Balls - 4 Boys, 19 Girls - 8 babies (4 spiders and 4 normals not out of the egg yet)
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

I'm really happy with my success in switching. All I do is wait. And use common sense. Once in a while I'll get excited and throw up a post, but I almost always get them to switch right before I'm about to give up. After I receive a new addition to my collection I wait a week and try to offer F/T right off the bat. If I have no success the first week I try again the second week. Then again on the third week. The third week I'll have a live feeder on hand. If they don't offer at the F/T on the third week I'll give them the live and that actually seems to jump start new additions sometimes. It's almost like they realise ok he's going to feed me now I'll eat what he offers. Then if I feed them live. The next week I'll offer F/T again and if they don't take that week they'll usually go the next week. I actually just converted a 2yr old Pinstripe that was never offered F/T in her life. It took me about a month and a half, but she had enough weight on her I was able to wait her out with no problems. Hatchling snakes I do the same cycle, but I cut it to two attempts then I'll go live. Another big thing I make sure I do is I do not handle a new arrival for at a minimum of 4 feedings. Not weeks feedings. I won't "Play" with the snake until they've eaten 4 times consecutively or 6-8 times if they're off and on. I give them time to acclimate. Obviously I'll pull them from their tub to clean if need be, but it's a quick out clean, give the snake a quick once over to check for health and back in no oogling over it. And no un-neccessary cleaning. I clean weekly, but if the cage is clean, no urine or fecies the tub gets closed for till the next week.

I honestly believe this is the key. Leave them alone accept for necessary maintenance and let them get used to their environment and never give up. I've read stories about where people have said that some snakes just don't eat F/T. This has yet to be proven to me. And say whatever you want about me, but I feel if the snake couldn't be converted keeper gave up. Which there is nothing wrong with that, but if feeding F/T is important to you I feel that it can be done in almost any case if you are persistant and put the time in.

Oh some other things I do. I don't thaw with water. I set the rodents out for 3 hours and let them thaw completely and then put them under a heat lamp for 15 minutes to warm up then offer. And I never just drop a rodent in or dangle by the tail I use tongs and grab by the back half of the rodent and offer that way. And another big key I think is often over looked with presentation is you can't be too far away or too close to the snake. If the snake is a shy feeder and you get too far away they won't show interest. If you get to close it seems to intimidate the snake and they go into defense mode. Since that's for a ball python it's more flight in the fight or flight spectrum that means it's curling up or I've actually had snake move to a different part of the tub to avoid the rodent. I usually present the food about 2-3 inches from the head of the snake and wait till they show interest sometimes that means holding there for 2 minutes, but eventually they go. If you do intimidate the snake. I've learned your better off leaving it alone that feeding and wait till next week cause it'll only stress them out further and they probably won't go that week.

All in all that's what I've learned about switching to F/T. Hopefully this helps. Again I'm no where near an expert, but F/T feeding is important to me. I put in the effort and knock on wood I've had 100% success so far.

Here's a great video to watch on feeding F/T if you haven't seen it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7OuTWUBwZs

Thanks so much Seeves!!! I need to get me a pair of those rubber tipped feeding tongs. I use hemostats(sp) and my snakes grab them quite often.
I am printing out your suggestions today and will start trying them out tonight! Great advice!!!
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Balls - 4 Boys, 19 Girls - 8 babies (4 spiders and 4 normals not out of the egg yet)
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

Oh I just thought of another thing that works sometimes. This seems to be snake to snake. But if you have the right snake that's showing interest but won't strike you can drop the food in front of their hide or I've actually had it work dropping the rat right infront of their face. Again this will either work with a snake or won't. I have snakes it works with and they'll attack that dead rodent like theyre defending their lives. And I've had others crawl over it like it's a piece of furniture.

The snake I am currently working on converting attacks the f/t'd rat like she is defending her home. She strikes over and over. By the third or fourth strike I feel bad (almost like I am harassing her or scaring her) so I don't try anymore that night.

In reading your response I am going to try your thawing method tonight!!

What do you think you would do? V/R and Thanks so much!, Paige

A little about her:
She is right around 400 grams, is in a 16 quart tub with a hide and a water bowl. I had her in a bigger tub but she was always on defense in that one. The temp is set at 90/91 on the heat tape side. She is on cyprus mulch. I tried newspaper for about 8 months but thought I would try something that holds moisture better.
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Balls - 4 Boys, 19 Girls - 8 babies (4 spiders and 4 normals not out of the egg yet)
other various reptiles, animals, kids and a smoking sweet husband; would be perfect if he only liked ball pythons...

Believe it or not that happened alot when I first started using the tongs. I think in mycase. I was holding the rodent too tight with the tongs. I don't have that problem anymore which is what makes me think that it's all in the technique, but the way I over came it was to drop the rodent near them after the strike at it once and then leave them alone for an hour. Sometimes they'll strike as soon as you drop the rodent. Other times after striking at the rodent they'll go back and get it. Personal opinion I think your kind of tricking them into thinking they killed or more than likely wounded they're prey. And if you go back an hour later and the rodent is still there atleast you've exhausted all your options and try again the next week. Hope this helps. If you look at the picture I just posted of my pastel. She was a problem feeder. It took me two months do get her to feed frozen thawed. Now she's a regular old garbage disposal. I could probably feed her a stuffed animal rat.