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Heavy feeding and Puking

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 03:01 AM

Rainer was asked the question, has he ever had Florida Kings eat too much and then regurge? He said, "Never!" I really find this very hard to believe so I will ask the question to everyone here. Has anyone ever experienced a Florida King, or any Getula to eat too much and the puke it up? If you have do you have a temperature gradient for them to choose from. Is there a hot end and a cooler end? I am trying to be honest and I will say, I have had Kings throw up from eating too much, but I keep my snakes in a warm room, so the temps fluctuate only as a night drop. What say you?
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Replies (99)

Bluerosy Aug 11, 2011 06:28 AM

I did say they can regurge from eating a snake larger than themselves. But even then the regirged meal comes up partially digested.

But i bet most folks who have had florida kings regurge, is not because of to large a meal, is because the temps were to cool.

Or maybe it was to hot. Heck i don't know what other folks do. I just know with thousands of Florida kings and over 20 some years.... Mine don't regurge!

So the survey to me is nonsensical.

also , since I worked with species for a number of years that were extremely senistive to regurges (rosy boas) I think i know something about this subject.

Florida kings don't regurge..FED EM UP folks!

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www.Bluerosy.com

nate83 Aug 11, 2011 09:39 AM

Dehydration is as much as, if not more important, a factor in regurgitations.

Joe Forks Aug 11, 2011 09:51 AM

>>Dehydration is as much as, if not more important, a factor in regurgitations.

I think I would run a stool sample - likely there is an infection. Cryptosporidium sp. is high on the list, but could be attributed to a number of other illnesses.
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LOCALITY: Traceable lineage to WC snakes from the same locality.
I don't care how far apart they are (within reason) as long as the localities are stated, buyers can make up their own minds.

NON-LOCAL or GENERIC: Lineage is not traceable to WC
Generics need love too.

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 10:22 AM

Joe, I don't even know what this answer is for? Are you suggesting my snakes have Crypto? Please, keep with the survey? I'm not talking about sick animals.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

FR Aug 11, 2011 11:57 AM

Joe has a point, and its important here. snakes kept at average temps, do not develop a strong immune system and often do have these types of complications.

The immune system is developed at the upper end of the temp range. Its kinda like a fever thing in humans also.

So yes, if you have snakes that are kept at lower temps, they commonly are compromised by pathogens and parasites. Healthy snakes are NOT.

Which is another reason I rag on this poop

Joe Forks Aug 11, 2011 02:06 PM

>>Joe, I don't even know what this answer is for?
We are talking about Regurges, and causes for such
>>>>>Are you suggesting my snakes have Crypto?
I'm suggesting ONE of many possible causes for regurge - the way you guys keep your snakes, I think this is probably spot on - LMAO!!!!!
>>>>Please, keep with the survey?
I smell Taco Farts! You didn't like the answer, you got emotional, think about your snakes!
>>>>I'm not talking about sick animals.
Obviously, you don't know what you're talking about...otherwise you would have said, good point! Need to find the exact cause so a stool sample could be in order! lmao
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LOCALITY: Traceable lineage to WC snakes from the same locality.
I don't care how far apart they are (within reason) as long as the localities are stated, buyers can make up their own minds.

NON-LOCAL or GENERIC: Lineage is not traceable to WC
Generics need love too.

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 02:22 PM

My snakes don't regurge, and haven't for a long time! But I know if I throw handfulls of mice and let them eat till they get their fill, they probably will regurge. I was not asking for help with a snake that regurges! If I were then your advice would have been well taken. The only snakes I have had in recent times that did regurge continuously came from someone who does feed till they are full. That is the true irony of this whole thing, lol!
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Joe Forks Aug 11, 2011 03:04 PM

I say start with offering better choices and get a stool sample....

>>>>I will say, I have had Kings throw up from eating too much, but I keep my snakes in a warm room, so the temps fluctuate only as a night drop. What say you?
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LOCALITY: Traceable lineage to WC snakes from the same locality.
I don't care how far apart they are (within reason) as long as the localities are stated, buyers can make up their own minds.

NON-LOCAL or GENERIC: Lineage is not traceable to WC
Generics need love too.

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 03:31 PM

So if a snake has been eating fine for a long time, but after offering it a huge meal it pukes, you think it is Crypto?
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Joe Forks Aug 12, 2011 12:21 PM

If I thought it was crypto, I would say "I think it's crypto".
Usually, you get a stool sample when you don't know what the problem is.

I realize you are a beginner, but this is really elementary.
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LOCALITY: Traceable lineage to WC snakes from the same locality.
I don't care how far apart they are (within reason) as long as the localities are stated, buyers can make up their own minds.

NON-LOCAL or GENERIC: Lineage is not traceable to WC
Generics need love too.

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 10:10 AM

Rainer I'm just trying to understand why just about everyone I know has had snakes regurge after large meals, except a few people here? Maybe I need to change my ways? I know, I have had that happen, but I also know many may not be willing to admit it here on a public forum.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

varanid Aug 11, 2011 10:51 AM

I've had snakes regurge after very large prey animals, but rarely to never after several smaller ones even if they were the same total weight. Like my male king rat (I still need to name him, he's too awesome to not have a name). He regurged the first time I fed him an adult mouse but handled 4-5 hoppers pretty easily (and ravenously).

I've started to, with the exception of my retics, feed mostly smaller animals even if I go with 2-3 of them...it seems to work well. The retics I *may* start doing that with next time I order rabbits, but right now all I got are big rabbits so that's what they'll get the next month or two.
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We wouldn't have 6 and a half billion people if you had to be beautiful to get laid.

FR Aug 11, 2011 12:52 PM

What your saying is absolutely right, but its not curing the problem. under better conditions, there would not be a problem, Then you would not have to fix it.

As it is, they indeed can process smaller items better at lower temps.

Its all about biology. They have small stomachs, if the stomachs enclose the prey item, it breaks down quickly compared to when the stomach can only engulf the head of a large prey item. have you noticed when your snakes requrg a large item, the head is digested and the rest is rotting???

What your doing is a very good bandaid fix, you fixed the problem without curing the problem. Which is common here.

If you cure the problem, then your snake can indeed have no problem digesting large meals, Or even more and larger smaller prey items, either way, it can increase its intake. Which should lead to more growth and more reproduction.

At least the possibility of that. of course there are times when thats not needed, and if given the choice, the snakes will choose to not feed and to conserve energy. Thanks Varanid

varanid Aug 11, 2011 01:16 PM

I don't have a problem with low temps this year (I have before though). the problem may in fact by that it's too warm; since about May it's been a struggle to keep it below 90 ambient in the snake room with the crappy cooling system in my house. I've had *some* luck moving some cages to the closet though. Hot spots in the cages are mid to high 90s ATM, which would be great (I'd suspect) but I'm struggling to get them any temps below about 85 or so, even using damp moss.
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We wouldn't have 6 and a half billion people if you had to be beautiful to get laid.

bigtman Aug 12, 2011 02:38 AM

Just a thought, when I had my burms she was 15ft he was 13ft. I would feed them two rabbits about 5lbs each. That seamed better then one large prey item. To me it seamed that they didn't stress out as much, and could move off the heat more easily. Just my thought for you.
Have a good day!
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Tom S
1.1 Flame Lampropeltis getla Floridana
1.0 Hypomelanistic Lampropeltis getula Floridana
0.1 Axanthic Lampropeltis getula Floridana
0.1 Hypomelanistic Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis
1.0 Anerythristic Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis

Bluerosy Aug 11, 2011 11:35 AM

Jorge,
Like I said in my post, I have no idea what people do with their snakes in their collection unless I go into their snakeroom and pinpoint it. There could be several factors...

..For instance, I did not know you keep your snakes in a warm room with no heat gradient. i just assumed from all the discussions here. That you were giving them choices.

Also, since this is the kingsnake forum. I assumed we were also talking about kingsnakes. Not other species like some mentioned here. For instance I discovered that mexican pitopus regurge from eating a lot because it is the hair on the rodents 9maybe it has something to do with the prey items in the wild) so i started feeding hairless rats. That solved the problem with regurges. Also rosy boas. You cannot give rosys water right before or for sevral days after they eat..or they WILL regurge.

So without seeing what you or anyone else is doing. i can't tell what it is. Maybe you are missing something simple..or at least what i think is common knowlegde. I have no idea.

I do know that water bowls are another culprit. And ever since my journey with rosys I offer water one day and remove and disinfect the bowls the next day. I use bleach and amonia in a bucket and dump the old water bowls in that. Also by removing the bowls and replacing them again later. It keeps the cages cleaner.

I know Lloyd Lemke only offereed water bowls one day per week. he put all his water bowls in one day. Remeoved the next. he also made sure the snakes that needed humidity had that.

The opnly time I really keep water bowsl in 24/7 si when I have a gravid female..during and after laying! Which is what most do is the opposite for they fear the snakes laying in the water dish...

which brings me to nesting. SNAKES NEST. If they do, they would not lay in a water bowl. i had a gravid snake last night at about 1a.m. shoot out of its nesting box/unit whn i opened the cage..I recognized this that she did not like something , duuuh, lol.. I have the other gravid females in the same set up. Yet this particular female did not like her nesting box. She was moving and trying desperatly to get out and find another spot. She was unrestful and rubbing her nose against teh unit.. So I tried a different nesting material and she settled down today. MAYBE be she didn't care for the nesting mixture I used for the other snakes? I am not sure. But I will try something until it works. So should everyone reading this!!!!!!!! Try new things and understand that even within a large colletion like mine , evven though this one snake did not like her laybox. I had to change it.

So when a snake does something weird like regurge. I assume people will read what the snake is saying..even if it does not fit into our box of thinking, or the other snakes seem fine. Sometimes you have to make adjustmenst based on their individual bahvior...EXAMPLE: trying hariless mice (only 25 cents for large adults) and changing water bowls, not offering water , offering himid areas. etc

I am trying to help. But without being there and seeing. I can't tell. I have been to other peoples houses and can narrow the probelm down in seconds. But without seeing the exact circumstances it is hard to give exact advice.
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www.Bluerosy.com

DMong Aug 11, 2011 12:01 PM

"I use bleach and amonia in a bucket and dump the old water bowls in that"

Did you know mixing this combination makes a deadly gas?
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

FR Aug 11, 2011 01:31 PM

ok now, this explains a lot, hahahahahahahahahaha breathe deep and hold it. hahahahahahaha hes one tuff dude hey?

Bluerosy Aug 11, 2011 03:54 PM

The bleach/amonia buckets are kept outside.

And hell yes. I want it to kill anything I thow in there. MUhhahaha!.
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www.Bluerosy.com

FR Aug 11, 2011 01:10 PM

he said, when something is wrong, try something. You do not have to know what works, try something and learn whats wrong.

Also many people think I totally agree with Rainier, I don't on specifics, but do on approach. We have different experiences, so specifics will not match. We are different people.

Like the water bowl and hair issues, that are real problems, but in this case, Bluerosy took a bandaid approach instead of a cure. He did fix the immediate problem, but did not investigate far enough to find the cure.

Like with what others are seeing, there is something missing that allows for failure.

In the case of water bowls, xeric snakes in nature do not have access to drinking water, such species as rosys, rarely drink in nature, they conserve water and gain whats needed from their food. Also physics is envolved, warner temps cause more rapid dehydration. Boas are creatures of low temps, so keeping them at what we keep colubrids at will indeed dehydrate them. They do require warm temps to metabolize like other snakes, but resting temps are lower.

For different reasons, so do mexican pits. Like jani, they occur at elevation and are commonly active when very cold. I would think its more a dehydration issue the a hair issue. I did a lot of work with wild thayeri, and observed lots of P.d.jani. They do consume rodents with hair.

Yet, Bluerosy fixed the problem by doing something different.

What is good to determine is, what is actually the snakes abilities, and what is caused by our captive condtions. Then you as a keeper can pick one of many methods to fix the problem/s.

Whether its a bandaid or not is not the problem. its when we start to prejudice the actual snakes with our poor husbandry practices.

Remember, husbandry, is to husband, which means to take are of or support. Not to tell them what to do.

daveb Aug 12, 2011 06:50 PM

>>>>>>>

what happens when you mix bleach and ammonia?

lol

you going to daytona?
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odelay odelay odelay hee hoooo...
heeeeya huhhhh!
~Back in the saddle (Aerosmith)

FR Aug 11, 2011 11:52 AM

Its very simple, in nature, we all know they can consume and digest and process very large meals. Huge giant meals.

In captivity, its very common to control the size of meals as its common that larger meals are reguritated. We are not talking about giant meals, just more then medium.

So there is a algebra problem. Place each set with a equal sign between them. Then figure out whats missing, hahahahahahaha

With my field work, higher temps are seeked by individuals with a need for increased metabolism. Shedding, growth, healing of wounds/sick and digestion of large meals. Small meals do not require much heat over normal operating temps.

With large meals, they heat up the bolus for a time depending on how fast the bolus breaks down. As soon as the bolus breaks down, they move to cooler temps. this can happen quickly. If it does not, out comes the bolus.

As Nate mentioned, in captivity, dehydration is a very important factor and very possibily the most important factor. that needs to be right before we even think about the temps.

With snakes in nature normal operating temps vary from the mid forties, to mid eighties. Except for special needs when they seek temps around 100F. Which is not what the body temps would reach, High 80's to mid ninties, are what high body temps would reach.
The highest Internal body temps are normally gravid females with a food bolus. In my experience.

What the above indicates is, these snakes use a range of temps to regulate their metabolism for specific needs. A range.

That is in nature.

In captivity, you stick them in a box with average temps, middle of the line temps. Which work for middle of the line tasks. Which is why you see problems with anything above middle of the line.

The problem is, you(many keepers) still expect them to perform well with above average tasks, and not change the conditions, like the digestion of large meals. Well guess what, it ain't going to happen. They require more energy to process large meals then small meals. That is not magic, they are ectotherms you know. Common friggin sense.

Reptiles can perform at mammal metabolistic rates for short periods, but in order to do so, much have nearly the same body temps. again common sense.

So yes, its easy to see why they fail with large meals if they are not able to increase the means they digest large meals with. Which is to increase body temps.

Also, snakes have such an efficent system, they can and do indeed shunt temps to several parts of the body. That is, what I call regional heating, they only need to heat the area of concern. In this case, the food bolus. If this thread stays civil, I could find some, in situ pics of that.

The point is, you base your thoughts on snakes from a hobbyist breeder point of view and not from what the snakes really do. As you can see, that is common here.

for instance, in a previous thread recently, it goes like this, Joe blow the great breeder gets one clutch of seven from is fla kings, and this dude here, gets three clutches of 12. There is something wrong with that three clutches of 12 guy and I don't like him, so hes wrong. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm how funny is that, the real solution is to take away the names and compare husbandry.

To observe what differences led to the gap in results. That would be scientific and biology, Not argue over social alignment of the keepers. The frogging keepers have nothing to do with it. Its all about the data. Same snakes, different results, what caused it. Holy crap batboy!

Also, you and others make it about right or wrong. What the heck do you know from right?(a little New York here) Sirs, you need to stop thinking about right and wrong, and start thinking about the animals and their abilities and potential.(genetic potential)

I have said this one million times here, our study animals do nothing but REGULATE their temps, every stinking movement, its all about temps and humidity. Also, they are never the SAME TEMPS.

On a typical day in the field, you will find, an example, 12 individuals and record 11 different INternal boby temps. If your lucky, two would be the same. Yet here in captivity, each of you make your temps EXACTLY the same and like eachothers. Sirs, that is not about the snakes, its about you. YOU FOLKS ARE COPY CATS, end of that story, you copy people and are to friggin afraid to work the animals and see whats best for them.

In this case, is so easy to test. You do not have to do your whole friggin collection. Take a couple of individuals and test temps on them. Like take one healthy snake, keep it at 82.4767499F or whatever some of you do. then feed it a mouse and record how long it takes for the snake to eliminate the mouse. Use the same sized mouse and drop the temps 3 degrees and record again, another three degrees and record again, etc, note the changes. Do that until the snake stops feeding.

Then take that 82.whatever and raise it three degrees and record, etc etc etc. TEST FRIGGIN IT

As you do this, both ends, the low end and the high end will cause failure. Not death, just failure. As you drop the temps times will increase until the snake refuses that mouse. As you heat it up, times will decrease until the snake refuses that mouse from too much heat. But by raising temps in small units, 3 degrees you can stop before complete failure. No harm, no foul, you learn something.

how I hate to tell you this but in some fashion thats what I did and bluerosy did. If snakes reponded in a positive way, we increased that imput. We did so until the snake stopped and demonstrating a benefit. How easy is that. We are such HUGE friggin genius's

You know if its good keep making it good, until it stops being good. Then back up to the point the results are best without harm. NONE OF YOU DO THAT, YOUR A BUNCH OF COPY CATS! hahahahahahahaha, you only do what fred the corner snake expert tells you.

I will end with, The best possible expert on this subject is, THE SNAKES. They know what they are, better then any of us. So there is no need to make it about us. You know FR this or Rainier that. Test, learn, test some more, learn some more. Etc.

Also if your happy with what your doing, then friggin do that. If your curious about what the capabilities of these snakes are, then test the parameters of their abilities. ITs not about FR or BLUEROSY. ITS ABOUT YOU.

hahahahahahahaha that was fun yelling at you guys. About us having snakes puke, oh heck yes, even mister B rosy has, just not so much after he learned his animals. HE LEARNED. whats your problem????

TBrophy Aug 11, 2011 10:10 AM

I have only had Pituophis regurge, but it was obviously my fault. Too big of a food item and not enough heat. Rat literally rotted before the snake could digest. Given access to more heat, I am sure the pine would not have regurged. Live and learn.
I opened up a freshly killed fox snake in SW Wisconsin many years ago. That opportunistic snake had 12 field mice and two nestling birds in its gut. The exposed bluffs along the Miss River in SW Wisconsin provide plenty of heat to digest huge meals.
My opinion is that in captive situation if you offer enough heat (and enough of a cool area) you will not get regurges unless the snake is ill.

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 10:19 AM

Maybe, I will try to have a temp gradient, in the future? I plan on getting a small, building eventually and I might go with heat tape on one side. Right now I have good results with keeping them in a warm room, but I don't feed excessivley.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

TBrophy Aug 11, 2011 10:37 AM

Well, you gotta be doing something right. Just went to your web site and saw lots of great-looking, well fed snakes.

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 10:45 AM

>>Well, you gotta be doing something right. Just went to your web site and saw lots of great-looking, well fed snakes.

Thank you, I'm just trying to wrap my head around this whole subject. I wanna see what other people have experienced besides Rainer and FR. I feed fairly well, small rats even, but I have had snakes regurge if I let them eat all they want. Some would eat till the tails are sticking out of their mouths, lol.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

TBrophy Aug 11, 2011 11:29 AM

I think a lot of us learned that snakes are "cold-blooded" and just do not eat much because they have a "low metabolism". You know, the one mouse every two weeks advice from the past. I believe what we under-estimated for years is just how much they can and do eat in the wild. Anyone who has ever run a snaptrap line in a pasture knows just how incredibly abundant field mice and voles can be. Lots of kingsnakes, ratsnakes, bullsnakes, etc. probably eat daily, maybe 2X per day. Crap, as a kid I learned that they ate a large meal then "rested" for a week or so before they got hungry and started to prowl again. You know, maybe eat 15-20 rodents a year. Well, truth is I think they may eat 150-200 rodents in a year under good conditions (lots of mice; lots of heat). Cold-blooded, my @ss!

To be honest, I do not feed them as much as they have the genetic potential to eat. My reason? It would cost too much and I would be cleaning cages daily! Still, I feed a lot, give them temperature choices, and do not have regurging problems.

varanid Aug 11, 2011 11:41 AM

The phrase I learned in college was thermophilic. They like to get warm, and many herps have an preferred active body temp that's surprisingly high (I'm not at home so I don't have any of my books to check exactly how high). They just have to obtain that heat via behaviors rather than metabolisim. But given that I've found coachwhips out and eating (in shed in one case-that was trippy) in the high 90s a few times in the field...and that I've seen collared lizards basking on rocks when it's 95 degrees ambient air temp...and given that I've seen my kings using a 90 degree hot spot reliably right after eating...I'd believe it. Let 'em get warm.
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We wouldn't have 6 and a half billion people if you had to be beautiful to get laid.

FR Aug 11, 2011 12:07 PM

Your statement about what your snakes would do. Consider, your suppose to support your snakes at what they WANT to do, not what you think they do.

Do your really think snakes do not stop feeding, you know feed until they pop. Dang a tropical fish wifestail sets in here.

They know when to stop feeding, you need to know how to support that.

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.

To me, its all about ego, you or people like you, control an animal, to a level of success and they you call that great, success, or good. Which is fine, but its not the animal, its you.

The point here is not about the snakes, its about how is the center of attention. is it about you, as in, what you can control, or is it about the animals and what they CAN DO, what they are designed to do, etc. That is the question.

Remember, they live outside, no one tells them what to do. They know what to do, it just needs to be there so they can do it. That you change that in captivity, is about you. Nothing personal. You as an individual are curious so in your case, it may simply be naivity. You just don't know. Thats naive. Learn then you will know.

lucy47 Aug 11, 2011 01:08 PM

Snakes know many things Ive read here...except when not to cross a road. Lots of road pizza out there.

Lu

FR Aug 11, 2011 01:37 PM

Actually that may be not that accurate. As some individuals learn to cross roads and lower their chance of getting hit.

Like with most animals, the naive get killed in mass.

I live in a area with lots and lots of snakes and cars and roads. Some individuals never get hit. they have been here for long periods, others cannot seem to stay out of the road.

Whether its luck or learning or both, some seem to avoid getting hit. My field partner wanted to do a study on old urban snakes.

Also when we did a some field work on dirt roads, we noticed that some individuals dashed across the road after cars passed, others just meandered and would get hit.

Bluerosy Aug 11, 2011 01:58 PM

Beleive it or not i found big old rosys on major interstates... just hanging out on the shoulders watching the car lights zoom by. I hardly ever saw many squashed on those interstaes. I guess to much traffic? .. So i geuss they just hang out there. After investigating some of those "interstate stretches" during the day. I saw there was dry washes just below . So they climb up the side of the wash and watch for entertainment??.. I don't know..LOL!
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www.Bluerosy.com

mbrawley Aug 11, 2011 03:09 PM

About 4-5 years ago I found this old guy on the side of the road...I wonder how many cars he dodged during his life, from neonate to great great great grandpa. It's saddens me to think he beat the odds for who knows how many years, but then gets killed this way. It's all about the law of probability I suppose - a numbers game.

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 03:34 PM

I thought he would have learned? Be quick or be dead! Or just don't play near the road, lol. That guy was pretty huge huh?
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

mbrawley Aug 11, 2011 03:37 PM

Yeah man...over 6'. A rare thing in the area he was living these days.

Bluerosy Aug 11, 2011 03:42 PM

Maybe someone made a U turn and made a deliberate effort to run him over. I have seen that happen.
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www.Bluerosy.com

mbrawley Aug 11, 2011 03:45 PM

I kind of thought the same thing man. And if not a u turn, a quick, deliberate swerve. How could someone NOT see that thing in the road?

varanid Aug 11, 2011 04:18 PM

if they snake is actually *in* the road I try to not let it piss me off; it's not always safe to swerve or stop. But on the shoulder??? OOOOOH I want to hit people when I see that.
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We wouldn't have 6 and a half billion people if you had to be beautiful to get laid.

GerardS Aug 11, 2011 01:51 PM

Thats true.
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Gerard
www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

Jlassiter Aug 11, 2011 03:17 PM

You have to take into consideration that feeding full grown ADULT getula "as much as they want" may be only two to four adult mice at a time.....a couple times a week........That is sometimes "as much as they want." That's not "Heavy Feeding" by far.....I don't think Rainer and FR ever stated they feed them 12 Adult mice every day as the snakes would not eat that much.....A snake will turn down food when full and when the temp/humidity is not correct........

Then if you are talking about growing getula they will stuff themselves like sausages........They will regurge when the humidity and temperature needed for digestion is not found or provided......If it is provided they'll find it.......

Or the snake will regurge if it is ill.......

Think about this:
A snake (getula) grows its most from hatchling to adult size within a 2 or so year period.........It may live 25 years....In the other 23 years or so it barely grows comparitively speaking.......

We as humans reach our adult size in about 18 years.....we stay that size for another 50 years then we start shrinking.....LOL
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 03:42 PM

Heck I feed the larger Brooksi small to medium rats, so it is all comparison. However I bet if I gave them a second rat, some would take it, and be stuffed to the hilt. That can't be good?
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Bluerosy Aug 11, 2011 03:50 PM

Heck I feed the larger Brooksi small to medium rats, so it is all comparison. However I bet if I gave them a second rat, some would take it, and be stuffed to the hilt. That can't be good?

explian why it wouldn't be good.

You would get a healtheir stronger animal that might reproduce.

One of the things FR said was we (you guys) think that the snakes can't decide on their own. How do they manage without us in nature? LOL!
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www.Bluerosy.com

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 04:04 PM

>>
>>You would get a healtheir stronger animal that might reproduce.
>>
I think I am doing fine, my Floridas reproduced in 2 years. See how you only demean people. Who said my snakes don't produce? I usually get double clutches from adult snakes. I may up the food on some of my snakes, but I am not going to let them gorge themselves till they stop. Remember I don't have 50 degrees on one end, and 100 on the other. If I did I would try it and see what happens. But I know what happens in the conditions they are kept in now. That is why I am asking for other opinions, cause I tend to close my ears when you and FR speak! Sorry, but I do! So maybe hearing it from others might make me consider it a bit more. However I still say, very few are brave enough to admit any regurges here on this forum.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Bluerosy Aug 11, 2011 04:54 PM

I think both F and myself said we have had regurges. And we explained how we FIXED those regurges.

I think you are assuming we just started keeping reptiles in the last 10-20 years. It has been waaay longer than that.
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

markg Aug 11, 2011 03:30 PM

On two occasions - big meal and low temps, and an infection.

Other than that (I worked with Cal kings) they would never regurge.

I had a big male Sinaloan eat 6 mice in a row. No regurge. He was hungry, lol.

My brother has a gophersnake that he fed 12 thawed mice in one day. Lost power for many hours, mice were thawed, power came back on - he fed the mice to the snake. No problem. Gophersnakes can eat like crazy. I think they beat out kings at least in mass of food consumed in a day.
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Mark

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 03:39 PM

For your input! I am trying to be honest and balanced here, even though I am being painted like someone who has sickly snakes, lol. That is the very reason I don't think many people will admit to having snakes regurge on this forum, but I thank you for your input.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

DISCERN Aug 11, 2011 08:49 PM

Jorge,

To answer your original question, I have not ever had a snake puke because it ate too much. The hippie-feel good mentality of " feed it all you want, brah!! " is not realistic, nor is it healthy. The key is evaluating the conditions, compare it with balancing factors, and then, give the snakes the best homes possible, and putting aside your selfish desires for the snake's health. Very easy to speak for something that doesn't have a voice. Very hard to be honest about ones' particular motives.

Your honesty and fairness shows again that you yourself have a much better reputation than particular grown-children that frequent this forum and obliterate it with the most ridiculous posts I have ever read in my entire life, in terms of misconstruing facts associated with kings. You are someone who truly does care about the animals, and I only wish several would follow in your example, instead of trying to fulfill sexual fantasies by winning arguments on an internet forum about snakes, out of all places.

You may not find a lot of honesty here on the forum, unfortunately. Consider sources.

And you can send me a payment thru Paypal under the " gift " heading so you can be sure NOT to get your money back! LOL!!


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Genesis 1:1

a153fish Aug 11, 2011 09:05 PM

Man I like that snake!
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

DISCERN Aug 11, 2011 09:24 PM

Thank you sir! Coming from you, quite a compliment!!

He has been so much fun, and is growing to be amidst my favorite kings I own!!

Very chilled out, very relaxed individual. Loves to be handled. Never bites.
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Genesis 1:1

RandyWhittington Aug 11, 2011 10:44 PM

Jorge, I just figured I would add that I have found over the years that ALL the species I keep including kingsnakes just do a lot better at processing their food and in general when they have a temp gradiant. Obviously some of the hardier kings such as florida kings and other species like central american milks can tolerate a constant temp with less problems than others like greybands, thayeri, asian ratsnakes or pituophis but their is no question in my experience that they all do much better when they have a temp range. I'm not able to provide as much of a temp range as I would like in some setups, depending on size of cage and type of setup, which I tweak differently depending on the species but it really does make a difference, even if it's only 10 degrees from one side to the other.
I find it the same with humidity. Some tolerate less range than others but all do better with a range. I admit that with hardier species I just use use little things like size of water bowl, type of substrate, or amount of circulation to effect the humidity level depending on what they seem to prefer or do better in. In some of the trickier species such as asian rats I use different substrates like cypress mulch, which is much easier to saturate one little corner of thoroughly and they can move to or away from the damp area depending on what they want. Moist hides work good too but I find them a pain in the arse to keep up with when you have many of them.
I know these are things you know but I'm just thinking out loud about what works for me when it relates to your question.

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Randy Whittington

RandyWhittington Aug 11, 2011 10:48 PM

I've also found that having good hides and more than one in each cage makes a big difference.

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Randy Whittington

DISCERN Aug 12, 2011 12:36 AM

Great thoughts Randy!
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Genesis 1:1

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 08:54 AM

I do use hides and moist hides in each set up, but right now I have them all in a temp controlled room. I will try to incorporate the heat strips at one end in the future. I just have a hard time believing this would allow us to feed snakes all they want, but maybe there's something to this? I have been doing it this way for a long time, and I get great results, but I am always looking to improve, Thanks!
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

varanid Aug 12, 2011 09:10 AM

make sure they can also cool down. I expect that's part of the problem my king rat had earlier this year. That's harder though.
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We wouldn't have 6 and a half billion people if you had to be beautiful to get laid.

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 09:22 AM

>>make sure they can also cool down. I expect that's part of the problem my king rat had earlier this year. That's harder though.
>>-----
>>We wouldn't have 6 and a half billion people if you had to be beautiful to get laid.

Yeah the temps stay within mid to upper 80's, and I do have large water bowls and mosit hides, thanks.
-----
King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Bluerosy Aug 12, 2011 11:03 AM

I will try to incorporate the heat strips at one end in the future. I just have a hard time believing this would allow us to feed snakes all they want, but maybe there's something to this? I have been doing it this way for a long time, and I get great results, but I am always looking to improve

Joge,
You really need cold room for it to work.A temp controlled room at sat,,80F and then add heatstrips won't work. You need a lower temp gradient.

My rooms get really cold in the winter. In summer (I just got a new snake room) I placed two window airconditioners in the winodws to get it nice and chilled during summer..works great.

heck i have about 4 more window units siting in storage from my old house. if someone lived close by me i would let them use them for this purpose.
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

RandyWhittington Aug 12, 2011 12:15 PM

Just wanted to add that I wasn't relating the temp range to feeding all they want but just that they do much better over all with a temp gradient. It seems to cut out the occaisonal regurge you might have or problem feeder.
Also wanted to clarify that I keep my snake rooms temps cool(as I find reasonally possible) while they have the side with the heat tape. I definatly wouldn't keep the room warm when adding heat tape.
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Randy Whittington

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 12:19 PM

Yeah, I would definately keep the room cold and give them a hot side, thanks. That is why right now I have to go with the method I am using currently. I can't get that room very cold and there's no windows for an AC unit. But as I expand I will definately keep all this in mind, thanks again!
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Bluerosy Aug 12, 2011 12:48 PM

get a free standing a/c unit.
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 01:06 PM

You still need a window for the exhaust to blow out. Or all the heat will blowinto the room your trying to cool.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

mbrawley Aug 12, 2011 01:39 PM

True that Jorge. I just went through the same thing. I bought a 7000 btu portable unit for my garage. Works alright but I should have held out for a 12000 btu unit instead. This one struggles to keep it around 82. Not bad though, considering its been in the high 90's outside lately.

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 01:45 PM

Yeah the heat has been a bear! I looked into one of those but, like I said it needs to exhaust the heat thru a window.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Jlassiter Aug 12, 2011 02:12 PM

>>Yeah the heat has been a bear! I looked into one of those but, like I said it needs to exhaust the heat thru a window.
>>-----
>>King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
>> Jorge Sierra
>>
>>My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Or you can cut a round circle in the wall......can't you?
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 02:50 PM

but it will all go into my bedroom or bath, or Kitchen. It's kind of in the center of the house, that's why it doesn't have any windows. I am playing around with the idea of an outside shed type building? Don't know how well that would work?
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Bluerosy Aug 12, 2011 03:44 PM

Outside shed won't do. Gets to hot ot to cold. To many problems unless properly insulated.Plus it will cost a ton in heting and cooling.

I have 2 outside sheds on my prperty. One is pretty big. But i could never use it for snakes or even mice. They are raised up off the ground and are exposed. You need one with insulation and preferable a proper roof.

Since your snake room is in the center of the house there is not much you can do to control the indoor temps. Just do the best with what you have.
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 04:43 PM

Actually, I think an outside shed would be the ticket. As long as you build it big enough. If you used 2x6 studs and R-19 insulation in the walls and packed as much as you could (with proper ventilation of course) in the ceiling, a 12X16 snake house would be awesome, for a relaviely small collection (100 or so animals). With that level of insulation, it could likely be heated with one, or at most 2, oil radiators in the coldest seasons. If the option to build under trees is possible, all the better. My building (using those same insulative measures) maintains a near perfect base temp year round, except of course this summer, when climate change kicked my arse. I will remove the skylights next year and pack that space with insulation (and ventilation) and I think that will drop me back into the 70's for summer.

Oh yeah, you'd obviously have to run some Romex and conduit out to the snake house for electricity, but that isn't complicated. I think that if you have hooked up Flex-Watt before, then you could figure out a couple of plugs with some guidance. When I'm stumped, I find the oldest dude in the HD electrical dept. ask the right questions and I get schooled real quick (and I'm often called a ding-dong - it should be a merit badge.

I think a well insulated snake shack would be perfect! Do it and lets hear about it. Good luck!

Will

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 05:51 PM

I was looking at some sheds that are ready made and they deiver it to your home. These things are super well made of solid wood, almost like a hous. They even have roofs like a house. I could insulate it all around and on the inside of the roof. SAome have windows, and they come in a wide choice of sizes. That's what I have been pondering?
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 06:04 PM

Nice!

I think that most of them are built with 2x4's instead of 2x6's . However, you could insulte the shat out of the ceiling area and do R-13 in the walls. That could work for you. I don't think that you have to deal with Buffalo type winters (0 F. and 3 ft of snow: late Nov-April), so as long as you pumped every r-value available into that joint, you'd be ok. I've personally looked into those buildings and I can't do it at my latitude, but with a more reasonable climate, it would likely work. Check it out man!

Will

DMong Aug 12, 2011 06:46 PM

Another idea with 2 x 4 stud wall buildings, is you can actually build another 2 x 4(or whatever) sized frame inside the building butted right up against the original 2 x 4 stud walls to make the walls as thick as you want. A doubled-up 2 x 4 wall would instantly become a 1-5/8" x 7-1/4" wall when done with P/T lumber(pressure treated), which then leaves TONS of space between the studs for PLENTY of insulation...

~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 06:58 PM

Exactly! This could be done. Thanks Doug.

Will

DMong Aug 12, 2011 07:02 PM

You're welcome Will!

Yeah, not much involved with that quick fix..LOL!

~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 07:45 PM

That is a great idea, scab some plywood to the studs to hold the secondary 2x4 walls together and now you've got the ability to stuff that much more insulation in. That's some good thinkin' buddy.

I think Jorge (and others) could do this if he/they committed a year (or so) of snake profits to the building. That's what I did and it was nearly the best money I've ever spent. Now I have a snake building/man shed. Go to work, its worth it!

Will

DMong Aug 12, 2011 08:07 PM

LOL!!,..yep!.....I wish I had my own property right now to do just that. I used to be able to do just about whatever I wanted, but this luxury townhome complex is a totally different story altogether. I have to leave everything just as is unless I want to lose tons of deposit money when I ever move..LOL!

Man, do you realize how many times I have used, and have heard the term "scab together" in my entire carpenter career??....many countless THOUSANDS!!!!..LOL!. I could easily tell that you knew which end of the hammer to hold from just the couple of simple paragraphs you posted earlier..LOL!.

Anyway, yeah, there are many ways of accomplishing very similar results from very different things pertaining to carpentry if one thinks about it some as you well know...

~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 08:20 PM

Thanks Bud, I agree, 100%!

I learned fairly recently (unfortunately) the beauty of the term "scab". I teach 6th graders as a career, but I am a builder at heart. I don't think that there is a more honorable profession than creating substance from slivers of wood, steel and stone. The men and women who do this for a livelyhood have my utmost respect.

Will

DMong Aug 12, 2011 08:43 PM

Boy, Will,...I totally agree with you on that buddy!

I'm also sure that is why my back is so screwed up now. It's because of all the abuse I did to it over the decades..LOL!

When I was a young buck I could cary three full 4 x 8 sheets of 3/4 CDX across a jobsite. This was so damn heavy it would almost pull the skin off your hand and fingers even with them being as caloused as a thick piece of buffalo leather..LOL!

~Doug
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

a153fish Aug 13, 2011 07:37 AM

That sounds really good, and not difficult, I think?
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

RandyWhittington Aug 12, 2011 08:49 PM

Jorge, I've got a 12' by 13' shed that I keep my rodents in. I insulated the walls and roof with R-19. The floor is too low to get under it so I put 3/4in blue board insulation on top of the plywood floor and then 3/4 in. plywood on top of that for floor insulation. I have a 6500 BTU window air conditioner in the window and it keeps it at a constant 76 degrees with no problem at all, even on days it's over 100 degrees. If it's insulated right a shed/or out building is a great option. I use one of the little oil ran radiater heaters in the winter and it's very easy to keep the temps up and stable.
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Randy Whittington

a153fish Aug 13, 2011 07:32 AM

Now that I know it can be done, I just have to work on getting the shed and the insulating it. I will probably have to wait till Tax return, to buy it instead of renting it since I am going to alter it, and insulate it. Thanks again!
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

DMong Aug 12, 2011 04:37 PM

Jorge, being a professional carpenter most of my life, I have a few good ideas that would work very well with a portable AC unit.

give me a call tonight!

~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 04:50 PM

Hey Doug,

He could do this relatively cheaply, right? A slab with footers {biggest cost!}, 2x6's, 100-200 feet of 12-2 Romex and conduit, some plywood, roofing and lots of insulation.

Shat! I'd help build the sucker, except I'm in Buffalo. He could do this!

Will

DMong Aug 12, 2011 06:19 PM

Well, yes, he "could" build an entire building for the snakes if he wanted, but I was really talking about keeping them where they were and making something work..LOL!.

To take on and build a really GOOD quality outside structure and optimum energy efficiency, and have it up to all Florida building codes, permitting, etc...takes a bit more than most can do quite often. Not to mention the substantial cost involved...

If all this isn't done correctly and the city building dept. gets wind of it(which they usually always do eventually), they will be your worst nightmare and make you wish you never even thought of building it in the first place..LOL!

~Doug
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 07:07 PM

...Its a shed with insulation.

I know, I'm simplifying the shat out of it, but my building inspectors go out of their way to explain what they are looking for (They've called me a ding-dong too!)

We aren't trying to build a Taj-Mahal here, just an insulated shed that nobody (except all the people here) needs to know is for snakes.

I think he can do it! What does Rob Schnieder say in every Adam Sandler movie that he's allowed to speak in..You can do eet!

Will

Will

DMong Aug 12, 2011 08:13 PM

I was probably talking more about my "dream" snake house I guess..LOL!

Yes, it ain't rocket science as you know...

~Doug
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

mbrawley Aug 12, 2011 07:33 PM

Good advice Doug. Know your laws. Ironically though, I've known a few people that opted to do a job w/o seeking the permits, because the fines were less than the initial costs of the permits. I of course, am NOT condoning such methods though, just stating a fact.

DMong Aug 12, 2011 08:19 PM

Yes, that is very true in some cases. Now if they make you tear it all down and start over because there was something real serious you overlooked, it could be a real kick to the groin though..LOL!

Also, if some assho** neighbors get wind of what the building is for,....this can open "Pandora's Box" too. Don S. just went through all that a while back too.

GOSH!,...ignorant people can make your freakin life miserable sometimes!!!

~Doug
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

DMong Aug 12, 2011 08:24 PM

Yes, that is very true in some cases. Now if they make you tear it all down and start over because there was something real serious you overlooked, it could be a real kick to the groin though..LOL!

Also, if some assho** neighbors get wind of what the building is for,....this can open "Pandora's Box" too. Don S. just went through all that a while back too.

GOSH!,...ignorant people can make your freakin life miserable sometimes!!!

~Doug
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 05:18 PM

.
-----
King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

DMong Aug 12, 2011 06:24 PM

.
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"


serpentinespecialties.webs.com

mbrawley Aug 12, 2011 02:28 PM

LOL! "Yeah the heat has been a bear!"...I'm watching some of the "Grizzly Man" series right now on youtube. I don't know why but I never knew about this before you guys mentioned it earlier. WOW.

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 02:59 PM

Hi Jorge,

How warm is your room? The reason I ask is that you may not have a cool enough base from which to work, which will cause regurge.

Right now, a warm ambient in my un-air-conditioned snaker shack would be the low 80s and that is too high. While I don't get regurg any more, I do have heat stress at times, especially from the Boelen's and diamonds which choose a bit cooler at times.

As you know, if you allow them to stuff themselves (which is fine), you must have a large range of temps because they only select those very high temps for short periods at a time. Mine alternate between real warm (a stuffed jcp clocked at 98 under the lamp last night and was resting at 72 this morning) and cool.

For spring, fall and winter, my building has a very cool base, from 45F -70F. This of course is supplimented with either bulbs or tape to get the hot end up to the high 90s-100ish and they use it all. They also eat all winter long that includes kings, Morelia and balls. Thanks.

Will

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 03:08 PM

my snakes haven'y regurged in a long time, but I know if I offer them huge meals, where they look stuffed, it may happen. I still feed relativley large meals. I just fed my larger Brooksi small to medium rats, one each. It put a very noticable bulge in them but not from neck to vent, lol. But to answer your question, the room fluctuates from 78 at night to about 86 in the hot part of the day. You say low 80's is too high? I'm not sure I get what you are saying?
-----
King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 04:15 PM

Hi Jorge,

Yes, I think that an ambient room temp of the low 80s is too high. This is because I am dealing with it right now. My snakes are uncomfortable when the coolest that they can get is 82F. They pace and fidget. They choose to spend much of the year at much cooler base temps, all the while having the ability to get much warmer if they need to. I think that I mentioned before from 45F on a real cool night to 60-70F, which is average for the rest of the year. They eat tremendous meals (ex 50+ chicks in one sitting for a adult male Ga.) and digest just fine. They actually only use temps above the mid eighties for short periods, but they regularily use them. As an example, I just fed an 8ft jcp two large rats. The snake wanted and could have handled more, but I ran out. She sat under a light (95-100F) for several hours, then dropped away (low seventies) and then went back to the hot stuff. All of my snakes do the same thing. They need to spend moist of their life in cool and have the ability to select real hot for short intervals when they need it, at least that is what I'm seeing. I have some mods in mind for my building, so that next year a similar heat wave won't stress out my critters. Good topic.

Will

WillStill Aug 12, 2011 04:18 PM

That should say "most" not "moist" at the bottom. Although they need moist too.

Sorry.

Will

Bluerosy Aug 12, 2011 04:39 PM

She sat under a light (95-100F) for several hours, then dropped away (low seventies) and then went back to the hot stuff. All of my snakes do the same thing. They need to spend moist of their life in cool and have the ability to select real hot for short intervals when they need it

yep! because hot temps alone will cause the bolus to decompose to quickly.The snakes re constantly regulating this.

they know what temps to choose for proper digestion. This goes from periods of hot, cold, warm etc. They are moving to digest the food at the right temps so not to regurge.
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 04:59 PM

OK so you are providing hotter spots. OK, this is very interesting! my snakes don't show the same uneasiness, except when chasing to mate. I have been getting good results with my set up the way it is, I just can't let them gorge themselves. Thanks again!
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

rosspadilla Aug 26, 2011 11:22 PM

z
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bigtman Aug 12, 2011 02:48 AM

One of my fist snakes a corn regurged. But I think it was part me part the prey item (I think it was a bad one) and part the room was to hot for to long. I was at work all day and the air conditioner vent in that room got blocked and when I came home and checked on them I could smell it going down the hall. That was the first and last time it happened. and now I have OCD when it comes to my animals.
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Tom S
1.1 Flame Lampropeltis getla Floridana
1.0 Hypomelanistic Lampropeltis getula Floridana
0.1 Axanthic Lampropeltis getula Floridana
0.1 Hypomelanistic Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis
1.0 Anerythristic Lampropeltis triangulum hondurensis

a153fish Aug 12, 2011 08:57 AM

I have had corns regurge if the temps drop too much at night. Like early spring when we get a late cold snap unevpevtedly, and I'm at work. I've come home and found a few regurges. I try to keep a closer look at the weather in those times. Thanks for your input!
-----
King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Bluerosy Aug 12, 2011 11:08 AM

cold snaps can be problematic if you are not working at home.

Depends on where you live to. Someplaces have severe (HUGE) cold snaps.

But if they regurge from that, no harm. Mistales happen..just feed again and keep an eye on the weather channel. It is just a temporary setback...a smelly one.
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

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