Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello, all.

I am interesting in breeding my adult female California kingsnake, and I have found a few resources explaining the general method for introducing the male and female snakes. As a first-time breeder I am concerned that the female (~5 ft) will try to eat the much smaller male (~3 ft) upon introduction.

I have read that the female snake should be receptive 3-14 days after the first post-brumation shed, but I would like to know if there are any other signals I should be looking for that would indicate the female's willingness to breed - such as preference for the hot/cool side of the cage.

If you have any additional advice, I would be more than happy to hear it.

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0.1 Banded California kingsnake - Zorro
1.0 Manx cat - Mako
0.1 RES - Chopstick
0.1 Crested gecko - Hiyori
1.1 crazy dogs - Tumnus, Jet

www.youtube.com/watch?v=WIHAkqCls4A
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

>>These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
>>Frank Retes

Hi Rainer, I've got a question. This post is from you, but the content is shown as from Frank. Is that a signature or something that shows up on your posts? I ask because I questioned one of "Frank"'s posts several threads ago, because it seemed he responded to/challenged stuff the original poster hadn't said. In THIS instance, the same thing seems to be happening. His comments are re: food--he's saying the poster seems to think snakes can't decide for themselves what to eat in captivity, but the poster said nothing at all about food. Noticing that this time the post originated with you, I'm wondering if a signature is causing the confusion, or whether things are just being posted that are unrelated to the questions in the original posts, and if so, why. It seems unnecessarily argumentative and i'm wondering if that's not the case at all. Can you clarify? Anything that would reduce apparent argumentation on this forum would be great.
thanks
terry

The "Can't touch this" video by MC Hammer.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Yes, it's appropriate to worry when you introduce a much smaller male. Some tips:
1) make sure the female's eating voraciously, adding considerable body bulk that indicates she's ovulating. Better, let her crawl thru your hands while you press your thumb gently into her belly. If you feel little bumps those are developing ovum. Their presence means she's more likely to be receptive to the male.
2) Weigh this: It's late in the season for your female to be experiencing her first post-brumation shed. Could you provide some dates: When she came out of brumation, when she shed, that sort of thing? And maybe some info on how she's eating?
3) I'd put them together only when i had an hour to watch them. If she's ready--and if he's ready--they'll be copulating within 10 minutes. If she simply flees, or whacks him with her tail while doing so, she's not ready: separate them and try 2-3 days later. If they DO hook up, watch them and remove them when they separate (could be 15 minutes to a couple hours). Repeat at 3-4 day intervals for optimal 3 observed copulations.
4) For those first introductions I'd keep a bucked of water handy. If she attempts to feed instead of breed, you'll be glad you can quickly submerge her and hope she lets him go quickly. You can put neosporin on any wound she might inflict. And by the way, males often (usually?) grab the female by the neck during copulation, that's normal and you shouldn't be alarmed by it. But females don't bite the males if things are going well. And there shouldn't be any constriction during the process.
Tell us more, ask us more.
td

I apologize for not including this in the original post, but I am planning on breeding next year - not this year. The female is eating 1 small rat per 5-7 days, and I am increasing her food intake to 2 small rats per 3-4 days prior to the winter. Her first meal this year was on 3/18, and her first shed was 5/11. I had a minor crisis at the end of April where my house flooded during a storm, and that threw off my feeding schedule quite a bit as I had to move all of the reptiles to a new location during this time.

I will try to get a current weight on the female, but in the mean time, what is a good weight range to shoot for immediately before brumation and breeding? Also, do any of you recommend supplementing the female's diet with calcium following laying or should the calcium provided by the diet be sufficient?

When introducing the male and female kingsnakes, do you prefer to introduce the female into the male's cage or vice versa? Most sources say to introduce the female into male's cage, but I was wondering if this made a difference. I would prefer to introduce the male into the female's cage as her cage is much larger and easily accessible in the event that she tries to eat the male.

As far as incubation goes, do any of you have a preference for hatching substrates? I was planning on using hatchrite instead of vermiculite/perlite simply because I've heard it's much easier to deal with.
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1.1 Lampropeltis getula (Caldera, Zorro)
0.1 Heterodon nasicus (Hinamori Momo)
1.0 African house snake (Kensei)
1.0 Manx cat (Mako)
1.1 Crested gecko (Sundae, Hiyori)
1.1 crazy dogs (Tumnus, Jet)

www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZeLsYnWyo4
Make sure the snakes are well fed first! LOL!
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Bob
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
Keeping cats allows man to cohabitate with tigers. Keeping reptiles allows man to cohabitate with dinosaurs.

When you don't follow the 12 step Bonding program!
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

Jorge,
It is only one step. One you and other don't belive is true.

Intruduce them during winter and leave them together. how hard is that?
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

The weird thing is I do believe, lol! I have a trio of adult Brooks in the same enclosier since winter. No one ever pays attention to what I say, that is why I get so frustrated. I have said this countless times. Yes it can be done, but there are certain risks involved which the keeper must understand. From the spread of sickness to the possiblity however slight it maybe, of cannibalism. We can reduce the risk to a minimum but the risks are there. Nuf said.
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King Snakes! Who can make a better mouse trap?
Jorge Sierra

My Site > www.Sierrasnakes.com

A risk not mentioned much is successful cohabitation will lead to breeding and then to a lot more snakes than one originally intended to have...at least in my case! LOL! I now have a third MORE snakes than I started out with this spring.
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Bob
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
Keeping cats allows man to cohabitate with tigers. Keeping reptiles allows man to cohabitate with dinosaurs.

I pulled mine apart to stop them from breeding more. It was working *really* well though. Except I don't want more clutches this year! Next year yes, and I'll have more racks set up for babies.
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We wouldn't have 6 and a half billion people if you had to be beautiful to get laid.

Well if you get accidental clutches, just send them to me. I'll pay shipping
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www.Bluerosy.com

These animals live in nature, without you. They know when to eat, when not to eat, how much to eat, etc. Why do you think they cannot do that in captivity? They do know, you are suppose to support what THEY DO, not hold back food because you keep them at temps they would not pick.
Frank Retes

HAHA! Tell that to the snakes, who are doing what their natural instincts are built for.

The snakes don't have ears, so they can not understand, if someone tries to explain it to them, about the new wave of " ghetto herp husbandry " that is sweeping the nation.
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Genesis 1:1