Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello all. First off, I would like to introduce myself. My name is Adam. I live in Idaho and have kept reptiles all my life. I have followed this forum for about a year and have learned some good info. Now I have decided to join.

Now for the question. I have 3 kingsnakes which I recently aquired. A pair of L. Brooski. x L. Getula G. and a Male L. G.G.

They hatched early in August and started feeding mid to late August. They have fed steadily every week since late August. Right now, the male B. x G. is 16" inches and the female is 14 1/2" inches, with the L. G. G. about 15" inches. Is this about the correct length for kingsnakes that have been fed at a moderate growth rate schedule?

16" is marginal for that spp of kingsnake born in August. At least you are not starving them like some people do. So you are doing a good job.

Are they on hoppers yet? If not, push the food size (large fuzzy--weanlings-jumper/hoppers)and they will have a growth spurt. Remember the eastern getulas are mostly snake eaters in the wild (especially young neonates) and their systems are better designed to handle larger meals than other kingsnakes. Just make sure they have a good hotspot at one end of the cage where they can get up to 100F and a cool side of 70 (or preferably much cooler if the living conditions apply) so they can manage the proper digestion by moving from hot to cold to warm to hot etc.

The faster you grow them up. The healthier long term captives they will be.
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www.Bluerosy.com

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Greetings Adam... First off, you've been following this forum for a year and have still decided to join... have you read the recent "Settle this argument(Cannelbalism)" post?

All right seriously now... without having more info it's really difficult to answer your question... what size were the snakes at hatching... when you say "they've fed steadily every week" are you saying you only feed them once a week and if so exactly how much are you feeding them? All too often a schedule of a single pinkie/fuzzy every week is viewed as normal... it isn't. Every three days tops for little guys would be better imo.

You're going to receive lots of opinions regarding this matter but, again imo, the best thing you can do is obverse your snakes feeding response... offer a food item every three days... if the snake attacks with gusto then try feeding every two days or offer more that one item at the three day interval... if however the snakes seem to be disinterested in feeding only offer food items every four days. Every snake is going to be different, only you can judge what is going to be enough.

To offer some peace of mind for you at this stage... if they are feeding then you are doing well and you have nothing to worry about at this point... just up the once a week feeding if that is what you're doing and pay attention.

Best of luck to you!

Gerry

np
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www.Bluerosy.com

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We agree.....lol!
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Gerard

"I am the one that hides the universal secret of all time"

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

>>We agree.....lol!

me too.

yeah you gusy all agree with me 100% of the time. You just don't know it yet.
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www.Bluerosy.com

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I usually agree with you when you say someone else is correct.
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Gerard

"I am the one that hides the universal secret of all time"

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

I usually agree with you when you say someone else is correct.

Ahhh...! I get it. Even though they are saying the same things as me. As long as it is not coming FROM me directly. You wanna be my wife? LOL!
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www.Bluerosy.com

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What number would that be? Also, no!
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Gerard

"I am the one that hides the universal secret of all time"

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

So far they have only been accepting food about once a week. They are all on large fuzzies and are taking 1 each, except for the 16" male, which will take 1 fuzzy and 2 pinks. I try and allow the snakes to eat as much as they want per sitting and feed pretty much whenever they are hungry and active. They usually respond between 4 and 8 days after feeding.

The hotspot is right about 95 and the ambient is between 78 and 83 degrees. Humidity is between 35 and 60 percent.

"The hotspot is right about 95 and the ambient is between 78 and 83 degrees. Humidity is between 35 and 60 percent"

Adam, the cooler ambient temps aren't really allowing them to seek cooler temps away from the warmth.

The gradient is really all in relation to how big the tank is. Heck, you could have it at 200 degrees on one end and 25 degrees on one end it the tank was 30 feet long..LOL!

But in smaller quarters, it would be better it the wrm end was say 85-87 and the cooler end maybe 75, or something like that. I say that because the two opposite end high range temps of 83 and 95 are a bit too warm if it cannot escape it as needed.

The humidity is in the fair range but I would raise it well above 35 when they are in their shed cycle especially.

~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

serpentinespecialties.webs.com

Good post Doug!
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Genesis 1:1

>>"The hotspot is right about 95 and the ambient is between 78 and 83 degrees. Humidity is between 35 and 60 percent"
>>
>>Adam, the cooler ambient temps aren't really allowing them to seek cooler temps away from the warmth.
>>
>>The gradient is really all in relation to how big the tank is. Heck, you could have it at 200 degrees on one end and 25 degrees on one end it the tank was 30 feet long..LOL!
>>
>> But in smaller quarters, it would be better it the wrm end was say 85-87 and the cooler end maybe 75, or something like that. I say that because the two opposite end high range temps of 83 and 95 are a bit too warm if it cannot escape it as needed.
>>
>> The humidity is in the fair range but I would raise it well above 35 when they are in their shed cycle especially.

I agree....a good way to "isolate" a hot spot is to use back heat...not belly heat.
Then use deep Aspen to insulate the enclosure, separating the cool side from the hot side......

When using this method, along with some other methods not mentioned, I have achieved a hot spot around 90F and a cool spot below 75F.........in a 16qt. Container.......my shoebox containers reach 85F or so on the hot side and 72F or so on the cool side.......

Placing a moist hide in the tub lengthwise will increase the humidity and allow your snake to have cool/dry, hot/dry, hot/moist and cool/moist choices.......not to mention a thermal and humidity gradient not only from back to front of the cage but from top to bottom as well......

One day I will share my invention with everyone.....lol
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

Adam,

if they are only wanting to eat once per week maybe the temps are to low. With a small cage there is only so much you can do with temp gradients. So you have to look ahat the snakes re doing and adjust as the temps flucuate throughout the season.

As far as the hot end being to hot..I would not worry about it. Unless the snakes are always pressed up on the front of the cool end of the cage and trying to get away from the heat you don't have to turn it down.

Just watch what the snakes are telling you. If the snakes are always on the cool end. Maybe that means it is to hot in the cage. So turn it down a little. Also, if they are always on the hot end. Maybe turn it up a little.
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www.Bluerosy.com

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Thanks everyone. I actually have a moist hide in there already. And so far, they kingsnakes are using the whole cage fairly evenly, but they aren't acting like they want a way out. I figured the temps were pretty good because of this, but I will try some experimenting with the temps.

sounds like you are doing everything right for a smaller cage.
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www.Bluerosy.com

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