Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Ok, odd question.

When I was at WCU, Dr. Bacon and I did some experiments as per my request on UV light transmission because I was trying to find the commercial light with the most UV-B transmission for my chameleons I had at the time. We found the light witht the most UV-B, but then in an idea by Dr. Bacon, we measured transfusion at different distances away from the light.

Those results enforced the knowledge I had about Saltwater tanks and the lights having to be a certain intensity for it to reach the coral through water.

UV-B had almost 8 times the intensity 1 foot away from the bulb as it did 3 foot away. In other words only 1/8th the amount of UV-B leaving the bulb would reach the 3 foot mark. Even less at the 5 foot mark (like 1/20th). This research would lend the conclusion that lights have to be a certain distance away from the recipient for it to do any good. Forgive me, for I do not remember the correct numbers, only percentages.

Now, I know UV-B is a different animal than other spectrums in wavelength, but it should be similar to other light.

Now, my REAL question behind all this pratter is : I have a 150 Extra tall tank I want to turn into a frog tank. Its dimensions are 4 foot by 3 foot footprint, and then 3 foot tall (or more, I dont remember right now, 40" maybe). Will the flourescent light intensity needed for photosynthesis by moss and broms reach the bottom of the tank? OR will I have to spend a crapload of money and get something else?

Thanks for your input and sorry for the long post!
Matt

UV-B follows the same laws as other wavelengths. What you are referring to is known as the "inverse square law". Intensity falls off at the square of the distance from the source.

Anyway, you didn't mention what type of lighting you want to use. for an extra tall, 4-48in tubes of something like Chroma 50's will keep the plants alive. If you want the moss on the floor to do really well, I would recommend at least 6 tubes. If yo build the top yourself be sure to use a reflector behind the tubes, it will help a lot. You could also use a couple of small MH systems if you had small reef tanks you don't use any more. Something in the range of 2- 200W systems would work great.

Joe

Metal halide is the reason I was trying to go flourescent. Price. I dont have $800 to put in lights. I do have some sodium (I think) vapor lights that should grow stuff pretty good, but then you have to really vent well or heat will build up.

The wavelengths used by coral and those used for plants should be different, as coral only uses the blues since that is only what is received in deeper water. Moss and others only recieve filtered light from the canopy. I would imagine that another (less expensive) vapor light should work. Is this true or wishful thinking?

6 or 8 48" gro lights should be sufficient otherwise? I can do those ALOT cheaper than metal halide.

I am planning on using 6 tubes over my 90 gallon...For a 150 extra tall? I'd go with as many shoplights would fit over it.
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David Knight
Tempe, AZ

D. imitator
D. leucomelas
P. terribilis
D. azureus
D. tinctorius (Alanis)

I keep seeing the reference shoplight in posts. Is it the cheapie lowes shoplights for $20? If so, they have really crappy lights in them.

Or is the reference due to regular 48" fixtures with other bulbs in them?

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Updated list as of: 9/30/03
2.2.6 D. azureus
1.2.14 D. ventrimaculatus 'yellow' (16 tads in the water)
1.1 D. tinctorius 'cobalt' (one subadult)
0.0.3 D. tinctorius 'patricia'
1.1 D. auratus 'blue'
0.0.5 D. auratus 'green/black'
0.0.10 D auratus 'green/bronze' (very soon)
0.0.3 D. imitator 'Alex Sens line' (1 week)
0.0.2 D. reticulatus (soon)