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Heating Concerns

KingDome Apr 23, 2012 10:10 AM

I have six 20L gal tanks. Five of them have the under the tank heating pad and it is under the tank on one end. The other one has it on the side wall of one end of the tank. One day I detected a burning smell. On one tank the pad was bubbly looking and had detached most of itself. I unplugged it, it would not stick back. I eventually took it off yesterday. I checked the rest and another one looks like it is detaching around the corners. Not sure what to do??? Don't want to burn my house down.

I was thinking of buying all new heater pads and putting them on the side wall of all my tanks, instead of on the bottom. I would be able to visually inspect the heaters condition daily. It just looks to be safer that way.

Is it just as affective for the snakes to have the heater on the side??
Thanks

DAVY

Replies (66)

Kerby... Apr 23, 2012 04:29 PM

In the spring and fall I use a little fan heater too heat up my snake room. The rest of the summer, nothing, and the winter is cold enough to take care of itself.

Snakes don't need heat strips unless your snake room is that cold.

Kerby...
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Life is like a bunch of fish in an aquarium....we all get along (bonding) until I want to eat you....and I do.


DISCERN Apr 23, 2012 10:34 PM

Agreed Kerby. I do almost the same thing, and have wonderful results.
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Genesis 1:1

Jlassiter Apr 23, 2012 11:32 PM

>>Agreed Kerby. I do almost the same thing, and have wonderful results.
>>-----
>>Genesis 1:1

Let's not be so hasty and group all kings together.....getula may probably be okay....not thrive but okay.....
But mexicana and monotones definitely do better with a cool room and a hot spot.....
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

DISCERN Apr 24, 2012 12:28 AM

" Let's not be so hasty and group all kings together.....getula may probably be okay....not thrive but okay..... "

No, they thrive. Proof is there.
I have known breeders use ambient with Mtn kings as well and have good results too. However, I agree with how you have yours set up and I personally think that is a wonderful way to keep them as well.

Let's not be hasty and start making judgements on others' collections, John.
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Genesis 1:1

GerardS Apr 24, 2012 12:32 AM

Not to stir this pot again but what makes you say not thrive? I agree, your kings need to have it but I don't think getula do, they are a lot stronger. What should I look for with my animals to know they are not thriving? They are not smiling and sure aren't talking to me but they eat, have good BM, shed, breed, grow, what makes them not thriving?


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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

DMong Apr 24, 2012 03:07 AM

"what makes them not thriving?"

When they sit there nice and happy like that for a photo Gerard, you know they just aren't thriving so well...

~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

serpentinespecialties.webs.com


"some are just born to troll and roll"

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 12:34 PM

I'd like to hear the answer to that question as well. How do you know if your snakes are not thriving? I've heard this claim several times on this forum that a person's snakes are living but not thriving.
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Jlassiter Apr 24, 2012 01:34 PM

Maybe you are right....
I also think that an non bred pet snake thrives easier than those that are being bred yearly......

A thriving snake is one that is kept in optimal conditions and will reach maturity faster, breed better, breed more and live longer contrary to the warning set forth by some folks that think all of the mentioned things will shorten the life of the animal...

I believe that if you are achieving optimal husbandry your snake will do all of the above......thrive.....

If a snake is kept just as a pet it is never really doing what it was designed to do fully......it is not typically being brumated, fed heavily at times for breeding, bred, going through natural life cycles.......just living

Then there are those that keep just getula on newspaper, with one hide and a water bowl and fed small meals once a week at a constant temp....I think a growing snake kept like this is just living and not thriving. At a constant 80 degrees plus they would be ready to eat every 2 to 3 days.... Like this there isn't enough options provided for thriving..... Just enough for sustaining or living.
I think they are wanting and needing more.
Just my opinions but I have kept snakes both ways and I have seen an improvement.......
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

Jlassiter Apr 24, 2012 01:36 PM

Dammit..... Disregard this first sentence..... I am typing on my iPhone and it sux....

>>A thriving snake is one that is kept in optimal conditions and will reach maturity faster, breed better, breed more and live longer contrary to the warning set forth by some folks that think all of the mentioned things will shorten the life of the animal...
>>
>>I believe that if you are achieving optimal husbandry your snake will do all of the above......thrive.....
>>
>>If a snake is kept just as a pet it is never really doing what it was designed to do fully......it is not typically being brumated, fed heavily at times for breeding, bred, going through natural life cycles.......just living
>>
>>Then there are those that keep just getula on newspaper, with one hide and a water bowl and fed small meals once a week at a constant temp....I think a growing snake kept like this is just living and not thriving. At a constant 80 degrees plus they would be ready to eat every 2 to 3 days.... Like this there isn't enough options provided for thriving..... Just enough for sustaining or living.
>>I think they are wanting and needing more.
>>Just my opinions but I have kept snakes both ways and I have seen an improvement.......
>>-----
>>John Lassiter
>>Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...
>>
>>
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 01:53 PM

OK, I's clear where you are coming from now. How large would you expect a Cal king to be after a year, if its thriving?
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Jlassiter Apr 24, 2012 03:58 PM

>>OK, I's clear where you are coming from now. How large would you expect a Cal king to be after a year, if its thriving?
>>-----
>>

As you know they are individuals.....
It depends on many variables like their size at birth, feeding response, etc... but I'd say around 18 inches sometimes more, sometimes less....

Do you believe that a calking eats will eat over 100 meals in it's first year in the wild? I know it depends on the habitat but I think they do......
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 04:21 PM

18" is about average for wild specimens. I thought you were going to say 24". lol Yes, there are indeed many factors. Tell you the truth, John, I have no idea how much they eat in the wild. If they eat every few days, they could easily surpass 100 meals in a year. My feeling is that they probably do eat more than once a week, but do they eat all they can until they are full each and every time? Juveniles probably could, but not adults.
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Jlassiter Apr 24, 2012 04:35 PM

>>18" is about average for wild specimens. I thought you were going to say 24". lol Yes, there are indeed many factors. Tell you the truth, John, I have no idea how much they eat in the wild. If they eat every few days, they could easily surpass 100 meals in a year. My feeling is that they probably do eat more than once a week, but do they eat all they can until they are full each and every time? Juveniles probably could, but not adults.
>>-----
>>

I agree with you 100% man.....
Juveniles use food to grow as well as sustain....Adults use it to sustain as they don't have much growing to do anymore.
But I would think that females could eat alot out of brumation...and if they do find a snake to eat that is usually a substantial meal that could last for weeks. Many factors in the wild we can only speculate about......

I have started feeding my adults numerous smaller meals instead of fewer larger meals....It seems to work better in my situation/set up......Especially for the mexicana......Getula are more of a bullet-proof snake.......Great snakes if you ask me...That's why I have so many now.
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 05:11 PM

Agreed. I think in the wild (when it comes to mice) juveniles have the opportunity to eat all they want, because baby mice are always all together in the nest. An adult will have the same opportunity, but obviously because of their size, a nest full of pinkies or whatever size, is not going to be enough to fill them. I've found a lot of kings with something in their belly equivalent to one or two adult mice, but I've never found one that was just loaded. Not saying it can't happen, but I think for the most part, they don't eat like that in the wild. I don't think feeding a juvenile a good sized meal once a week is bad, but the soonest I like to give them their next meal is after they poop about 3 days later. Feeding them more often than that, is fine IMO. I do think every few days is better than every week, but I'm not going to tell anyone once a week is not good, unless they attack my methods and really piss me off (LOL) then I might say they are starving their snakes. But with me, it never gets to that point. I think hurt feelings from a lack of respect by others or talking down to others, is what gets these threads going out of control. I tend not to take what a person says 100% as the truth when they are obviously pissed off or speaking in a tone that I don't agree with. At that point, I'd rather not participate. I hate having enemies, especially on a forum like this that I really enjoy. Sorry to preach, but these things are not touched upon often enough on this forum.
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Jlassiter Apr 24, 2012 06:25 PM

I agree100%
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

Bluerosy Apr 24, 2012 06:51 PM

Ross,

These forums are a place where novice and expert can share what they know. Where things go wrong with disrespect is that any know-nothing can post any such drivel they please. Then they take it as an offense when really the discussion is about snakes and the best way to keep them. So taking things personal on knowledge and experince people that are stuck in their ways get offended and will defend to the death. Then they turn around and make it about you and me. Where it should not be about us, rather it should be about the snakes.

Also I found gopher snakes in the wild stuffed to the neck with baby rabbits (pinky rabbits?)so they are opportunistic feeders if given the chance.

What FR has said many times is areas that support the snakes (or any animal for that matter) where they thrive. There will be lots of them. and lots of food. Once that supply of food goes away you will find skinny snakes or less snakes. I guess some die off and /or stop reproducing because they are not being properly supported.
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1) Do you beleive what you observe or observe what you beleive?


www.Bluerosy.com

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rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 07:16 PM

"These forums are a place where novice and expert can share what they know. Where things go wrong with disrespect is that any know-nothing can post any such drivel they please. Then they take it as an offense when really the discussion is about snakes and the best way to keep them. So taking things personal on knowledge and experince people that are stuck in their ways get offended and will defend to the death. Then they turn around and make it about you and me. Where it should not be about us, rather it should be about the snakes."
Yep, it happens a lot of different ways and is more likely to happen between two people that already have a history of bickering between each other. Then there are those that look for it. Lots of forums are like that. You guys should see the boxing and MMA forums. This forum is civil compared to them. LOL
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GerardS Apr 24, 2012 07:02 PM

Yeah, attacking people because they think their way is the only way is annoying. All different kind of ways work for different situations and people. I happen to like both ways, even with my turtles.


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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 07:22 PM

Yeah, we need to be a little more tolerant with each other. If someone does something in a way you feel can be improved on, there's nothing wrong with respectfully suggesting something different. Unfortunately, some people don't take kindly to suggestions no matter how nice it was put to them.
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GerardS Apr 24, 2012 07:38 PM

By the way, the site is looking awesome!
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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 07:45 PM

Thanks, man. I wish someone would do something similar with the Eastern getula (floridana, getula, meansi, goini). Too bad they took down that one on Eastern kings.
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GerardS Apr 24, 2012 07:51 PM

Sean has his site up and running. It's pretty awesome, check it out.

Apalachacolakings.com
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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 07:56 PM

Hey thanks, man. I didn't even know about that site. Sean has found a lot of very nice kings.
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GerardS Apr 24, 2012 09:20 PM

He sure has and now his site is getting better all the time.
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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

DMong Apr 24, 2012 08:15 PM

Excellent observations Ross. I couldn't agree more........

~Doug
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

serpentinespecialties.webs.com


"some are just born to troll and roll"

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 08:49 PM

Thanks, man. I was in the mood for some reason.
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DISCERN Apr 24, 2012 10:25 PM

Great post!!!


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Genesis 1:1

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 10:53 PM

Thanks a lot, man.

I was looking back in the archives here and found out they were calling the Merker hypo Cal king from El Dorado Co. an El Dorado Blue eyed blond and a Merker blue eyed blond. I remember you telling me that hypo looking king you had was sold as a blue eyed blond. Is it possible it was a Merker blue eyed blond, because it looks just like it.


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Jlassiter Apr 24, 2012 11:14 PM

>>Thanks a lot, man.
>>
>>I was looking back in the archives here and found out they were calling the Merker hypo Cal king from El Dorado Co. an El Dorado Blue eyed blond and a Merker blue eyed blond. I remember you telling me that hypo looking king you had was sold as a blue eyed blond. Is it possible it was a Merker blue eyed blond, because it looks just like it.
>>
>>
>>-----
>>

Is it the same gene as the Elfin Forest BEB?
Shannon has one adult male and my buddy Toby used to have a pair from Merker....I didn't think they were BEBs. I thought they were hypo.

Or a different kind of hypo like the BEBs.....unless that is just T positive?
-----
John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

rosspadilla Apr 24, 2012 11:27 PM

The Merker hypo is different from the Elfin forest BEB. Most people consider the Elfin BEB a T albino, but the Merker is a hypo and not born looking like a lavender T . Does it make sense now that your snake was actually a Merker hypo? I ask because it looks like a hypo to me.
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rosspadilla Apr 25, 2012 01:39 AM

"Is it the same gene as the Elfin Forest BEB?
Shannon has one adult male and my buddy Toby used to have a pair from Merker....I didn't think they were BEBs. I thought they were hypo.

Or a different kind of hypo like the BEBs.....unless that is just T positive?"

Sorry, John. I replied to the wrong person. Don't know what I was thinking. lol

No, they are differen't. The Elfin forest BEB is a T albino. I don't know why they used to call the Merker hypo a BEB. I think that made things more confusing.
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DISCERN Apr 25, 2012 12:05 AM

You know Ross, now THAT, I do not know. When it was sold to someone in CA as a BEB, who later on sold it to my friend whom I purchased it from, I was automatically assuming it was the Elfin Forest BEB that Vivid Reptiles had been breeding for years.

I will say this. The same time I got the snake, I looked at Vivid's website and they had both baby BEBs and het-BEBs for sale. My Cal king you have pictured there looked EXACTLY like the het-BEBs as a baby and NOT the real BEBs. Spitting image.

So...in actuality, who knows.

That is very interesting though about you mentioning the Merker BEBs because yeah, mine does look just like those as well?

What a trip!!!


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Genesis 1:1

rosspadilla Apr 25, 2012 01:02 AM

To me, Billy, it only makes sense it would be a Merker hypo since there were two different morphs being called BEB. And it looks hypo in those pictures. The yellow in the Merker hypo's is more often described as a yellowish like yours. Plus, the snake was labeled a BEB, not a het BEB. I know it might have looked like their het BEB's, but that is most likely the phenotype they just happened to have and its the most typical color for kings from that area anyway. Hets could be other shades of brown as well, unless they specifically said het BEB's are always this color brown. Here's a picture of a Merker hypo in similar lighting and background. Just too damn close if you ask me. LOL



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DISCERN Apr 25, 2012 01:09 AM

Oh yea, I always thought my king was some hypo of some sorts.
The difference though is mine only has yellow on his head, but the white bands on his body are just white, not yellow.

Very close, and maybe it is the same thing!! Good eye there!
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Genesis 1:1

rosspadilla Apr 25, 2012 01:17 AM

Yeah, maybe so. An Elfin forest BEB wouldn't have white bands, or the hets. I favor the Merker hypos over the BEB's because they are a lot harder to find now days.
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DISCERN Apr 25, 2012 01:25 AM

" An Elfin forest BEB wouldn't have white bands, or the hets..."

Hmmmm........very interesting!! Good food for thought, and awesome things to consider.

I gotta say....your site is so killer!!! What a great contribution to the hobby my friend!!
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Genesis 1:1

rosspadilla Apr 25, 2012 01:30 AM

Thanks a lot, Billy. And thanks for your contribution as well.
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GerardS Apr 25, 2012 12:57 AM

Hey Ross, what's the story on those BEB's, they're a morph, right?
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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

rosspadilla Apr 25, 2012 01:11 AM

Yeah, the BEB from San Diego is considered a T or even a hypo by others. They start off with ruby red eyes, then the iris develops a bluish pigment as they mature, but the pupil remains dark red. I prefer to call them T because of the eye color.
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GerardS Apr 25, 2012 01:28 AM

Cool, that would look awesome mixed with some of Kerbys ghosts......I think I'm going to have to get some cal kings this year.
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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

rosspadilla Apr 25, 2012 01:31 AM

It sure would and both morphs are nearly from the same locale.
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GerardS Apr 25, 2012 01:41 AM

Hopefully this year I can snag a couple, the hypo ghosts are my favorite. I think you know some friends of mine that seriously hunt cal kings in the south there. Shoot me a email I will tell you about it. Gerardzs@yahoo.com
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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

rosspadilla Apr 25, 2012 01:47 AM

.
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Kerby... Apr 25, 2012 04:44 PM

I still have a female BEB (VIVID Reptile stock). Never bred.

I bought 1.1 babies from VIVID in 2002 and they would not feed and when they finally did, they were slow feeders and were always scrawny snakes. The male did breed one year before he finally died. The female is still scrawny and I have a Casper Ghost (Albino Ghost) that I will breed her too once she sheds.

Kerby...
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Life is like a bunch of fish in an aquarium....we all get along (bonding) until I want to eat you....and I do.


rosspadilla Apr 25, 2012 05:39 PM

That's too bad they didn't do well for you, considering how much you probably bought them for in 2002. I remember them going for $175, which is expensive for a Cal king.
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Kerby... Apr 25, 2012 08:38 PM

I have talked to others and their BEB didn't do well either.

They were skinny non-feeders when I got them and they stayed that way until I got them to feed and then they were skinny feeders.

Kerby...
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Life is like a bunch of fish in an aquarium....we all get along (bonding) until I want to eat you....and I do.


rosspadilla Apr 26, 2012 02:24 AM

Hmmm, I heard there problems with the original Palomar ghosts as well. It might have been reproductive, can't remember, though.
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Don Shores Apr 26, 2012 12:28 AM

John, although I just heat my room and have pretty good success, I think I would have better success if I had a hot spot on all my cages. I just don't have heat tape in my homemade racks. I wish I did.

Bluerosy Apr 24, 2012 10:06 AM

Kerby,
That may "work" as most breeders with large collections use heated rooms. But working and surviving is not the best we as breeders can do...

Now herpers in warm climates like in AZ or FLorida where the room temps are already 85F due to the warm temps outside. It would be overkill to use heat tape in such cases. I beleive in your case that is the situation. And that does not allow you the choice to offer your collection optimal conditions. You probably will never get the opportunity to try unless you move or cool your snakeroom with air conditioning and since that cost money and raises your bills. I can understand why you don't. It is just not feesable or necessary for what your circumsnates are. besies, it still works and the snakes still eat, diegest and beed.

But not all of us live in warm geographical locations as you do.

Optimal for the snakes is what we are talking about. Snakes do two things. They search for the perfect temp and perfect humidty. They constantly move and change.That is what they desire and they seek. In the wild and in captivity when placed into a rubber box.

As with my snakeroom and my snakes.. They eat, then sit on the hot side (95F) then they move over to the cool side when they are done digesting. Somtimes they sit all the way on the other end where it is the hottest. Sometimes they are halfway and then all the way to the cool side.

During winter my snakeroom gets down to the low 50's. They sit on the cold sie and when I feed them they move over to the hot side. Yes!, they eat when they are that cold. Now without choices and you do a forced cooling, they would never eat when they are that cold.

The snakes know what temps suits "THEIR" needs to either conserve calories or digest food. Guessing and either changing the temps is never optimal as we just can't read their instincts and physical biological needs from minute to minute.

Also, in my collection, they brumate themselves! I feed throughout the whole winter and they cool themselves and heat themseleves. The females produce follicles and the males sperm. So they know what they are doing!

This is what they do in nature. However, forcing them to live in an inbetween temps is not optimal for the snakes. Giving choices is always better for them.

I am sure my snakes could breed and survive in a set 82F-85F. As i have in the past. But since then the snakes are more robust and proof is i get 3 clucthes per year form 2 year olds and up. One year old snakes i get 2 clutches. I get this quite consistently.

Controlling what we think the snakes should have takes out any choices for the snakes as they know best what temps they want and need.

All in all it is pretty simple for anyone to accomplish this. Just buy a heat strip or heat pad. Use a heat pad or heat strip or other device wheich gives choices and range of temperatures. That is not so hard and is not rocket science.
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1) Do you beleive what you observe or observe what you beleive?


www.Bluerosy.com

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Kerby... Apr 24, 2012 07:54 PM

Although I live In Arizona....I live at 5,000 feet in elevation....rarely getting above 100 degrees outside during the summer time....and I do get winter snow and below freezing temps almost every night in the winter. See, I do have wild cal kings on my property and they do experience hot and cold temps, sometimes VERY DRASTICALLT!

My snake room flucuates from day and night time temps EVERY DAY! My snake room gets NATURAL sunlight and darkness based on what nature already provides.

Trust me...I know what I am doing...and heat strips ain't the rookie answer.

Kerby...
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Life is like a bunch of fish in an aquarium....we all get along (bonding) until I want to eat you....and I do.


varanid Apr 24, 2012 11:34 PM

I don't know about need but my kings sure as hell use the hot spots they get. In the warmest months I turn them off because ambient creeps up pretty high (high 80s to low 90s--there's a reason I don't do montane species). But if the ambient isn't that high, I offer them at least the heat tape and they do use it.
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We wouldn't have 6 and a half billion people if you had to be beautiful to get laid.

JGEORGE Apr 23, 2012 05:00 PM

I've had really good luck with the ultratherm heat pads/strips. I'm using mine on a shelf to heat tubs but the small ones could easily be taped to a tank using aluminum tape. The quality seems much better than the adhesive ones and the price is ok too.

mrkent Apr 23, 2012 08:41 PM

I also use ultratherm, with never any problems. I attach them to the underside of glass tanks with scotch tape. With a rheostat and an separate thermometer they work great.
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Kent

1.1 Hypo (het lavender, striped) corn snakes, 2010
1.1 Gray-banded king snakes, blairs phase, 2008
5.8 Gray-banded king snakes, 2011
2.1 Oregon rubber boas, w/c 20??

gerryg Apr 23, 2012 05:04 PM

Having them under the tank is better. With over six years of them I've had one fail on me much as you describe... edges and corners peeling back and becoming very stiff. Looking at the pad closely I noticed a small hole in the mat, literally the size of a pin head... another failed/died with the pad still stuck on very well, no peeling back of any sort, no hole. Neither failure caused me concern about the house burning down and believe me I worry about all sorts of things when it comes to my snakes. No different than a light bulb burning out imo.

Gerry

pyromaniac Apr 23, 2012 05:52 PM

Are you regulating the heating pads with a thermostat? If a thermostat is not deployed the pads will overheat.
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Bob
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
Keeping cats allows man to cohabitate with tigers. Keeping reptiles allows man to cohabitate with dinosaurs.

Bluerosy Apr 23, 2012 06:48 PM

One word here...Bellyheat!

Belly heat is needed even though some rack systems have back heat. But with racks the heat is kept contained because of a backing and two walls one each side and on top.

In an aquairium I doubt the heat pads will warm up the bottom of the tanks.

get a better quality heat pad. Some to burn. So experiment with the different brands.
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1) Do you beleive what you observe or observe what you beleive?


www.Bluerosy.com

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Jlassiter Apr 23, 2012 11:35 PM

In my opinion back heat is best...with back heat and deep Aspen a better thermal gradient is achieved because the deep Aspen acts as an insulation between the hot and cool areas....
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

GerardS Apr 24, 2012 12:36 AM

I agree, I do not have mine setup like this now but will soon. I don't think it really matters with getula but I think if you can give them choices it can't hurt.
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Gerard

"Ten minutes to wapner..."

www.livebaitclip.com

GONE FISHING!!!

Bluerosy Apr 24, 2012 07:40 AM

In my opinion back heat is best...with back heat and deep Aspen a better thermal gradient is achieved because the deep Aspen acts as an insulation between the hot and cool areas....

I agree with you.

I think you misread or I did not convey what i meant in my post regarding bellyheat..

The OP was talking about an AQUARIUM. So my reply was the placing the heat pad on the side where the heat escapes on all ends (unlike backheat on shevling which holds the heat) will not heat up a large enough area for the snake and to get enough heat 9bellyheat) to digest it food). That he (the OP) should keep it underneath the glass aqurium where the snake can properly get enough bellyheat.

You see , sometimes you guys don't get my posts. Sometimes because of my poor typing problem. And others times because of history.. because back in the 70's the new BUZZ word was bellyheat. Thus sometimes I think I am speaking to that generation of herpers still. [Where the heck did they all go anyway ?, LOL!]

Anyway, I use back heat on some of my "racks" as well. As long as they have a gradient choice.

But an aquarium needs bellyheat because the 60's and 70's herpers in the past used aqauriums and we all know the heat pad goes underneath..so..say so! okay!......
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1) Do you beleive what you observe or observe what you beleive?


www.Bluerosy.com

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Jlassiter Apr 24, 2012 09:06 AM

>>In my opinion back heat is best...with back heat and deep Aspen a better thermal gradient is achieved because the deep Aspen acts as an insulation between the hot and cool areas....
>>
>>I agree with you.
>>
>>I think you misread or I did not convey what i meant in my post regarding bellyheat..

Okay....I guess I did....I typically understand everything you try to convey Rainer....
Thanks....
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

RinL Apr 23, 2012 06:59 PM

are the tanks slightly elevated?they need to have some air flow so that the heat is not trapped under the tank. if not, raise the tanks off the shelf by about a quarter inch

markg Apr 23, 2012 08:05 PM

Side heat can work - see the little bit of red snake back there? But, the room can't be too cold.

So, if you can keep the room temp even in the low 70s with a small heater, then side heat can work.

Otherwise, do belly heat but get a proportional temp controller and keep the heaters at a reasonable temperature. You can plug all heat pads into one controller (I think you said 6, right? No problem with 6 at all). Place the probe on one of the heat pads (elevate the cage). That is your control heat pad - don't turn that one off.

Jlassiter Apr 23, 2012 11:37 PM

>>Side heat can work - see the little bit of red snake back there? But, the room can't be too cold.
>>
>>So, if you can keep the room temp even in the low 70s with a small heater, then side heat can work.
>>
>>Otherwise, do belly heat but get a proportional temp controller and keep the heaters at a reasonable temperature. You can plug all heat pads into one controller (I think you said 6, right? No problem with 6 at all). Place the probe on one of the heat pads (elevate the cage). That is your control heat pad - don't turn that one off.
>>
>>
>>

If you deepen that substrate you can achieve a great thermal gradient with a cool room
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John Lassiter
Poor planning and procrastination on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part...

pyromaniac Apr 24, 2012 10:18 AM

If you deepen that substrate you can achieve a great thermal gradient with a cool room
I use glass tanks for most of my snakes, although also have a few tubs as well. Everything is heated with UTHs in aspen three to four inches deep, with saucer hides over that. My cabin gets cold at night well into late spring so creating a little hot spot really helps.

Babies in their nest over UTH; saucer normally covers this. So a little "room" is created which is warm even though the ambient room temperature drops into the 50's/60's F at night. Thermostat controls heating pads; absolutely essential! Or one could use a rheostat.

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Bob
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
Keeping cats allows man to cohabitate with tigers. Keeping reptiles allows man to cohabitate with dinosaurs.

pyromaniac Apr 24, 2012 10:32 AM

Side note: these babies pictured above all feed readily on live pinks. My special needs babies are housed individually in separate cages as they have needed hand feeding of lizards; don't want to have a cannibalization event once they "click" on feeding! Everybody has a little "warm room" in the cage.
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Bob
Pyromaniac AKA Greatballzofire
Keeping cats allows man to cohabitate with tigers. Keeping reptiles allows man to cohabitate with dinosaurs.

DMong Apr 24, 2012 11:18 AM

Very good illustration there Bob. Also shows the little ones utilizing the very necessary heat to properly digest the meal bulges I see in their bellies. Looks like a great setup for your situation!

~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

serpentinespecialties.webs.com


"some are just born to troll and roll"

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