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Quick Genetic Question!

GoHogWild Feb 07, 2013 11:32 PM

Would you put an adult 66% PH female het albino with:

A. 100% het albino adult
B. 66% PH anery adult
C. Albino juvenile (35-50 grams)
D. Two or more???

I'm not planning on keeping many of the offspring, if any, so the PH anery is worth less in this situation. And, I would love to prove her out. I would hope for a lucky shot with the visual but wouldn't want to waste a good egg if the hets are more than ready for the job! LOL

Thanks, I know this is chump change to most of you but you would make this dumb old gal happy if you answer anyway!

Replies (31)

RG Feb 08, 2013 01:18 PM

easy, A and C.

GoHogWild Feb 09, 2013 11:36 AM

I thought so, thanks. I forgot to mention their colors because I wouldn't be into line breeding yet, they both have great dorsal patterns though, the visual is from a family with great red hets. Thank you.

FR Feb 09, 2013 01:48 PM

Did you get to see the pictures before they were deleted?

Rextiles Feb 09, 2013 04:54 PM

Sorry for the late reply, I've been recovering from surgery...

If your main goal is to prove out the poss. het female, I'd definitely go with option C simply because your chances are much higher (50%) for producing more visual morphs if the female is in fact het whereas if you bred her to a het male (and she was also het), your chances or producing a visual are now just 25%. Always remember, Punnett square ratios are not 'hard' numbers per se, so you cannot rely on how many visuals you can produce based on the ratio.

Case in point: I bred an Anaconda male to a 100% het Amel female which produced Anacondas and Normals that were all 50% het Amel. Last year I bred one of those 50% het Amel Anaconda males back to his 100% het Amel mother and hatched out 8 eggs from that pairing. Out of those 8 eggs, I got 4 Anacondas 66% het Amel, 3 Normals 66% het Amel and 1 Amel. Now, according to the Punnett square, the ratio was correct for how many Normals and Anacondas I would produce which was a 50% ratio. However, the Punnett square ratio for producing Amels was 25% which determined that I should have produced 2 Amels out of the 8 eggs hatched instead of just 1 hatching out. I could have easily produced no Amels and then wrongly assumed that the father was not het Amel at all which would have been a false conclusion because I was basing my assumptions on higher expectations of producing an Amel.

The bottom line is, if you are wanting to prove out a possible het, the best method is to use a visual animal which gives you a much higher chance of proving out the possible het but even this does not guarantee that you will produce visuals in any one single breeding session; sometimes it can take multiple breedings until a visual is produced even with known 100% het animals bred to visual animals. Unfortunately, that's just the way it is with genetics. So always be prepared to minimize your expectations and assumptions, especially with the first couple of breeding productions.
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Troy Rexroth
Rextiles

GoHogWild Feb 09, 2013 07:06 PM

Oh gosh, good luck Troy. I wish you the best of health and a full recovery!

Thank you. "C" makes the most sense but if he's not ready and would make subpar babies or cause the girl to slug out or waste eggs I would rather not use him yet. Anyway we have quite a few weeks to go. We don't have any plans, just want healthy babies (which would be our first baby hogs ever so there is no need for us to be very picky about it either!)

Hope you are all right. Take care now!

Rextiles Feb 09, 2013 11:26 PM

Oh gosh, good luck Troy. I wish you the best of health and a full recovery!

Thank you for your kind words! Fortunately, it was a simple knee surgery, so nothing too drastic this time. I'm just hoping that this will "fix" my knee so I can go walking with my wife again.

"C" makes the most sense but if he's not ready and would make subpar babies or cause the girl to slug out or waste eggs I would rather not use him yet.

Well, either he's going to breed or he's not. I don't think his size is going to have any effect on the overall health of his offspring should he breed at a smaller/younger size/age. I've bred full sized males breed to full sized females and have had the females slug out. It's hard to say where the problem lies until you do multiple unrelated breedings with those animals to determine if it's those specific animals that have issues or sometimes they can just not be compatible with each other for some odd genetic reason or another.

We don't have any plans, just want healthy babies

And that's the big question, "what are your breeding plans?". If it's just to produce your first hognose clutch, that's one thing but if you are wanting to work on specific projects, then that is something entirely different.

The bigger question to ask is, will you be able to take care of a bunch of hatchlings if you cannot readily sell them? IMO, it's better to work towards specific projects than just to do random breedings for the sake of just breeding as after a while, it's far too easy to be overtaken by a bunch of hatchlings that you end up stuck with.

I know it's exciting to breed and produce snakes, but the reality is, not all hatchlings sell right away and they do grow fast and can require more time, effort and money than you initially planned to put into them. But only you can determine what is viable for you.

Either way, best of luck to you!
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Troy Rexroth
Rextiles

GoHogWild Feb 11, 2013 01:15 PM

Try to get a little more sleep than you're used to and reduce stress as much as possible - could give your recovery a boost!

Wouldn't mind holding onto them for as long as need be, I would like to get some nice feeding records to study, and also maybe get more food scenting experience.

Thank you!

Rextiles Feb 12, 2013 02:11 AM

Try to get a little more sleep than you're used to and reduce stress as much as possible - could give your recovery a boost!

Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately depending on your point of view, I'm one of those people that have a hard time sleeping more than 7-9 hours or just taking it easy lying in bed. Regardless, my knee has been recovering far faster than the doctors told me it would and I've been pretty active just 2 days after my surgery. I was even on my exercise bike for 10 minutes today!

Anywho...

Wouldn't mind holding onto them for as long as need be, I would like to get some nice feeding records to study, and also maybe get more food scenting experience.

I totally get that as I've held back my first couple years worth of hatchlings when I first started breeding. My reasons were:
1. To build up my collection.
2. To gain more experience dealing with the variables of raising hatchlings.
3. To perform selective breeding for specific traits/projects.

Those are just my reasons, I'm sure others might have other interesting reasons to hold back individuals or clutches to add.

Having said that though, like I said, it's also easy to put a strain on a collection when you start breeding and having to take care of a bunch of hatchlings, so planning in advance is paramount to successfully maintaining an ever increasing collection.

You mentioned getting more experience with various feeding methods which will invariably be an issue for anybody getting into breeding with those stubborn or confused individuals that won't eat what we offer them.

One thing to consider, if you don't have this already, is having a colony or 2 of mice to breed which can prove to be very important for those individuals that will eat only live or fresh killed. I have 5 colonies of mice that I maintain and while I'd love to not have to raise mice, as they are stinky, cost money to maintain as well as time to clean and maintain, I can't rid myself of them as they've proven more beneficial than not having them. But, and this is a big but, keeping colonies of mice won't always ensure that you will produce enough mice to feed your snake collection. Like I said, I have 5 colonies of mice and sometimes I can go through periods where even I am not able to harvest enough feeders from my colonies which has also forced me to also buy frozen rodents in bulk from 3rd parties to help ensure that I always have enough for feeding my collection on a regular basis.

So, with all of these extra mice I'm buying and harvesting, I invested in a small freezer to keep all of them segregated from our food supplies which is probably a wise investment especially considering that one particular frozen rodent company had contaminant health issues with their mice which had the possibility of making people sick. So if you are wanting to get into the breeding game and make a good go of it, an extra small freezer might be a good idea!

Of course I could go on forever but that should get those brain juices of yours flowing as what to plan for when getting into the breeding game.
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Troy Rexroth
Rextiles

GoHogWild Feb 14, 2013 11:24 AM

Well that's good! Get right back on the horse.

I'm a night owl myself

Great points, coincidentally I'm already frustrated with the spike in feeder costs recently and am seriously considering a small colony (1.3) and CO2 chamber!

FR Feb 14, 2013 02:38 PM

All you need is a tank and ziplock or fishtype bags, for small amounts. Best wishes

GoHogWild Feb 14, 2013 04:01 PM

Thank you as always FR! I assume this is the dry ice method?

(Saw your other pics BTW, thank you. I love the boards. But you said the hogs don't use them often?)

FR Feb 15, 2013 08:36 AM

They use the boards, not as much as a crack dwelling snake. They used them way more when I only had top heating, but once I put a heat pad in, they use them less often.

They still come out and bask on the top as often.

I took some pics of our little albino yesterday, hopefully I find time to post them. Best wishes

Rextiles Feb 14, 2013 08:11 PM

Great points, coincidentally I'm already frustrated with the spike in feeder costs recently

Tell me about it! I used to do orders of 1000 various sized mice for about $400-500 before the spike. To now think that that same sized order today would cost me $1200-1500 is unconscionable.

and am seriously considering a small colony (1.3) and CO2 chamber!

I used to do small groups of mice like that and had a really hit and miss time with groups that small as some males would not breed or would be sterile, hard to say. And if you got a rogue cannibal, then there would go your babies in one fell swoop.

What I have found to be more in breeding mice is to build up a larger colony, like 3.8-10 due to the fact that the males will often fight over colony dominance which causes the males to proactively breed more frequently with the females. I use larger concrete mixing tubs which can be found at Home Depot combined with a home-made screen top and a watering system to supply water to 5 tubs using a single bucket of water instead of individual water bottles which are a pain to use and keep filled.

The only disadvantages to using larger colonies like I do is that the males will often urinate more trying to supplant the other males' scent. Also, you sometimes get some pretty beat up males in the process too. But, I have found that when I remove the beat up males out of sympathy, the aggressive males sometimes will relax and can be less prone to breed. I've ruined several colonies by removing weaker males to help reduce the violence, but found this also reduced the dominant mouse's want/need to breed as actively. YMMV of course.
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Troy Rexroth
Rextiles

FR Feb 15, 2013 10:58 AM

Hi Troy, sorry your experience with mice is more about your husbandry then the mice.

I have been producing mice for many many years. We are producing about 5 to 6000 a week.

Never seen an sterile male or found a need to use several males. We also do not see cannibilism. And we have no problem adding or changing individuals in groups.

We set up aprox 200 new breeders a week and never have a problem with fertility or breeding. They cycle every 23 days and don't miss unless I screw up.

Simply put, you cannot miss, not a day with food or water.

If cared for, small colonies, or large ones(1.3 up to 1.10) are not a problem. Ours are 1.7 in most cages with one row of 1.9.(slighly larger cages)

I would look into your husbandry if your seeing the problems you mentioned. Also, do make me the bad guy, we all learn to support our animals, some how, some way. Its a process. Cheers

Rextiles Feb 15, 2013 02:53 PM

Hi Troy, sorry your experience with mice is more about your husbandry then the mice.

You assume too much Frank. I'm not currently having problems with my colonies nor have I for many years. Actually, my colonies have been quite successful and productive now for over 6 years since I changed my methods. And for the record, I've been breeding mice off and on for almost 20 years, so I'm not new to differing methods used to breed mice, I just find that this particular method I now use is far more effective and productive and thought I would share that with those that might be interested.

Never seen an sterile male or found a need to use several males. We also do not see cannibilism. And we have no problem adding or changing individuals in groups.

I never claimed that any of my non-breeding males were actually sterile, I merely inferred that it was a possibility due to non-production of specific groups here and there witnessed over the years.

I think the whole point you seem to totally miss though Frank is that my response is directed at those that are starting off with fresh new colonies, especially in regards to mice that are purchased from pet stores. I've seen far too many people, myself included, that have purchased groups of mice from pet stores and have had problems getting them started. You don't have to look very hard to find those people out there, I used to see it quite frequently when I spent time on CS.com years ago.

The point is, most people buy mice to be used as breeders from pet stores, mostly large chain stores, and many people do have problems getting colonies started. Whether or not that has to do with those mice coming from large chain stores or the local mom & pop stores has yet to be determined, but I will say that the majority of the mice that I've purchased from chain stores were more prone to being problematic than those I bought from independent stores. When I've purchased small groups from chain stores and tried to start them from scratch only using one male, it was really hit and miss. When I've used multiple males in a single colony, my successes improved for the exact same reasons mentioned in my previous post. It's an observation that I made after the many years of doing this and one that I found a possible solution for.

In regards to cannabalism, it usually is a rare event but can and does happen. My observations of this usually stem from young females that might eat their first litter but then go on to never do it again. I would be willing to bet that it happens in everybodies colonies, it's just that most people aren't paying enough attention to really notice it as it happens quite fast and remains are hardly ever left to make notice of. I would say that out of every 200 females, I might get 1 or 2 that might do this, even rarer is that 1 in 1000 rogue female that won't stop, those get culled immediately once they are discovered.

Simply put, you cannot miss, not a day with food or water.

You are preaching to the choir here. I have mine on a watering system and even that requires me checking on it every couple of days or so for either plugged lines or just simply being low. But I agree, rodents need a constant supply of water or food or else that colony will degrade overnight which can also be a major factor for cannabalism as well!

If cared for, small colonies, or large ones(1.3 up to 1.10) are not a problem. Ours are 1.7 in most cages with one row of 1.9.(slighly larger cages)

Again, you assume that I only think that large colonies work and that that is all I do. The reality is, I have 5 colonies, 3 large ones and 2 small ones. My small ones will house 1-2 males and up to 3-5 females depending on what's working with that specific group. However, I was sharing my experience with how much more successful my larger colonies have been. For those that are wanting to get into breeding mice and want to try something that isn't "recipe" like what you are doing, they now have an option in case the "recipe" method you prescribe doesn't work for them.

I would look into your husbandry if your seeing the problems you mentioned.

Like I said, you've assumed too much. I don't normally have these types of problems but those problems can and do exist in every mice colony whether you see/admit it or not. I'm a keen observer and spend quite a bit of time with my animals, so I do notice these things. I'm also not afraid to mention the negative possible aspects of my way of doing things so that I can give people a more informed opinion than those that are afraid to publicly state such short-comings, and trust me, everybody has short-comings when it comes to husbandry, even you Frank whether you are man enough to publicly admit it or not.

Also, do make me the bad guy, we all learn to support our animals, some how, some way. Its a process. Cheers

Here's the deal Frank, was I not kind and helpful to you when you first came here asking questions? Did I not spend my time giving you helpful answers to your questions not only here but when you emailed me privately. Have I not kept the secrets you asked me to keep from those private emails? The truth is, I didn't start out disliking you, I'm not like that, I try to help anybody that asks me for help. But shortly after our communication, you started to stir the pot here on the forum, that's when everything went sour between us. It's odd to me that you've never figured that out.

And that's where you fail as a human being, because you don't know how to ask the real questions, like, "Why was this person so nice to me in the beginning and now they are not, could it have been something I did or said?" If you could ask yourself those questions and be open to the possibility that maybe the problem exists because you created it, then maybe it's a problem you can correct and actually draw more positive energy than negative energy from people.

I've been witnessing all the negativity you bring with you on practically every forum you frequent, it's really quite sad. But what's really sad is that you have the ability to change that but you don't have the strength or character to do so.

I've no doubt that you can be a cool person and that you do possess some insights worth sharing with others but not at the expense of knocking everybody else down so that you can try to rise above them. Unfortunately, that's how you tend to operate Frank. Even in this thread, I make suggestions to someone else about my methods of breeding mice and somehow you find all the negative aspects and try to pinpoint them on me as if I'm always failing at breeding mice while you tell me how successful you are when the truth is, you have no clue about my successes or not, you just knock me down to try to build yourself up.

In regards to this whole "recipe" mentality...

You are always telling people to not be "recipe" keepers, well, I always see you offering your recipes, things that you have found that work for you. Well, if everybody adopted your methods, then they would still be recipe keepers, they'd just be using your recipe instead of someone else's. Don't you see that? Your whole "recipe" argument is actually ridiculous and pointless as anybody that follows someone else's proven methods is now a recipe keeper. The only way out of that trap is to totally invent something new that nobody else has done and even then, anybody that follows in your footsteps will be a recipe keeper. It's a game nobody can win, it's a game you think you can win, it's not!

The irony is that you yourself are a recipe keeper Frank, you use repeated methods over and over for your animals. When you showed that picture of your hognose setup with your "Retes" stack, I laughed my butt off because you've used that same recipe for many different animals, from snakes to monitors, it's like a one-size fits all recipe. You show a comparison picture of a wild animal snug into a rock crevice and then one in your "Retes" stack. Well, your "Retes" stack is really no different than old plywood or pallets lying on the ground, you know, the ones that every herper is always keen to pull up to look for animals underneath? Yep, the exact same thing! Your "Retes" stack is nothing new nor ingenius, you've just taken the idea of putting outdoor scrap wood into a tank, that's all. Nowhere are you even close to mimicking a rock crevice nor do I believe that you got your idea from rock crevices, it's just scrap wood slapped together like found dumped in the wild.

But like I said before, most reptiles don't care one way or another about their surroundings, whether it's an actual rock crevice or scrap wood or a porcelain skull, if they can find a place to snuggle into, they are usually content. If this were untrue, then why do so many people look under sheets of plywood or metal roofing outside to look for herps? If the animal were that picky and wanted something more natural, it has the whole world to choose from, think about it! It's the keepers that try to mimick nature more for themselves than for the animals sake in general, unless of course that animal requires specific care to successfully maintain it within a more natural environment.

What's funny about the whole point I'm trying to make here is that hognose are burrowing snakes and yet based on the pictures you showed, you give yours more places to climb instead of areas to burrow. Yes, hognose will climb, I used to make climbing toys for mine but found that the majority used them more for hiding on the bottom levels probably because physically they are not quite as agile as their other colubrid cousins such as kingsnakes and rat snakes and yet you've chosen to force yours to live in an environment that fits within your recipe of how you choose to keep your animals. If your hognose is content and thriving and the rest of ours are content and thriving, then all of your arguments pertaining to how the rest of us keep our animals have no merit to them.

See Frank, you aren't any different than the rest of us, you just want to think you are but you aren't and that's a cold hard fact!

The bottom line is, like the old saying goes, people that live in glass houses shouldn't throw rocks. Well Frank, you live in a glass house and you are always throwing rocks. Maybe you need to rethink your strategy and improve your people skills, it will be time more well spent than denigrating people that are just as, if not more so, successful than you are when it comes to husbandry and observation!

Here's the deal Frank, if you want to start over and put aside all of your petty attacks on people and just enjoy in partaking in helpful and respectful conversations, I'm all for that. But that's going to be up to you and only you. If you can do that, we can all get along and make this a much more enjoyable place for discussions. Sound like a plan?
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Troy Rexroth
Rextiles

FR Feb 15, 2013 04:38 PM

Stop it Troy, I can't assume anything, I do not know you at all. I can only go by what you posted, period.

From what you posted, you gave poor advice. THat is all I can go by.

THere are cures to all the things you mentioned or methods to work around them. That is what you should have posted.

Troy, stop with what I think of you or you I. I don't care, and nobody else does either. Its not about you, or I, its about what WE SAY.

I have no idea why you take everything personal. When I look at animals, I do not look at the keepers. Thats including my animals. They are the subject. We are all equal as we are the keepers and we don't matter.

You make it about manners or this or that. How about making it about the animals. How about looking at it from that point of view.

Its not about you in any personal way. How could it be, I do not know you, nor do most here. I can only go by what you say, and with mice. Your advice was not so good and based on your failures or problems.

She can keep small groups is she pleases, there are no problems with that. Keep it simple and do a good job.

The key to producing mice is FIRST get good stock. Then its easy. The second key, is Water, its a must and must be reliable, as in you cannot miss days.

Then comes food, food at all times.

The main suspect with mice eating their babies is LACK of water, even for a few hours.

I do understand where you come from Troy, your all about people, the problem is, this is a hognose snake forum. And in this case, the food they eat.

I am nice to the OP and theres reason, she is nice to me. Whether she does what I recomend or not, is not a problem. She asked, I tried to help and she did not FIGHT. You and some here, fight and do not listen. Really, all you have to do is ignore what you do not like about my posts. Its about that simple.

But you don't, you make it about you. By the way, do I know you???? No I don't

Rextiles Feb 15, 2013 05:37 PM

Oh god Frank, you truly are a lost cause and a sad pathetic individual!

What you fail to realize is this forum is as much about people as it is the animals. Why you might ask? Because we are dealing with people that keep these animals! Wow, imagine that, that this hobby is just as much about the people than it is about the animals. You sure haven't figured that one out yet considering how you seem to mistreat most people on these forums.

As far as you claiming I give bad advice, I'll take that as a compliment coming from someone such as yourself. You say you don't know me, but guess what, you don't know my animals either and yet you act like you do. You are as delusional as they come and all of your counterpoints and arguments are so full of holes, I guess the mice must think you are made of swiss cheese, well, your head is. Get it? Headcheese?

Even my post topic humor is lost on someone like you. Of Mice And Manners... Of Mice And Man... Of Mice And Men. Get it? I should start calling you Lenny, you are after all about as bright as he was.

Here's a sad email I got from someone last week in regards to you:

"Troy.

You are AWESOME!

I'm a former Kingsnake Forum guy. I had to leave or lose my mind with Frank and a few of his henchman over on the Kingsnake Forum. They made it a very unpleasant place to be instead of just a nice place to enjoy our animals. Very well said. I tried very hard to get along with Frank and appreciate his wisdom without taking offense at his ways and it just got VERY old. I thought you were very articulate . It would be nice if he could just see himself as a fellow helper with a lot of great experience/ wisdom to share but he sees himself as an expert that is doing Kingsnake a favor by posting on the Forum free of charege. No embellishment. It is what he said. You can look for it over there. I figured enough was enough....
Hope things go better on your side.

My best."

Here's another one I got a couple of weeks ago in regards to you:

"I want to punch him in the face. I really, really do. Why the hell would any admin on the Hognose forum put up with his trolling?

I don't even want to bother arguing back. He wouldn't understand the point I was trying to make.

*beats head against wall* he's so arrogant and an annoying assumptive jerk."

And yet another person wrote me this:

"Hi,
Decided to stay away from the forums to ask these questions."

This makes me mad because you are now driving people away from asking questions on the forums despite your "insights" on how to keep reptiles. To someone of your overinflated ego, this doesn't tell you anything, but to the rest of us, it tells us a lot!

The sad thing is, these people emailed me out of the blue to express their opinions of you and the fact that you've made these forums undesirable with your presence. There's only been one other person here that garnered that much disdain here on the hognose forum and he hasn't been here for several years. I guess you chose to take his place as court jester and crap disturber!

In regards to all of your other BS and idiocy, you keep mentioning my "failures" even though I've coherently explained to you quite the opposite, but you won't hear it, you never will. You just use every opportunity to knock down everybody else while twisting and turning everything they say into something it's not just for you to try and come out on top. Guess what Frank, you'll always be a bottom feeder to many here and there's one thing in which you are very wrong, many that come here DO know me, they've known me for many years for all of the advice I've offered and helped them with. I've never once had anybody say anything negnative to me like they obviously do to you. Why is that? Because I try to be humble and only offer advice when it is asked for and without putting people down. You on the other hand...

And I will reiterate my point yet again to you, the forums are about the people. It's people that use them, it's people that learn from them, it's people that make friendships from them, it's people Frank, PEOPLE! Get over yourself and stop acting like some undercover PETA operative by trying to drive a wedge into our beloved hobby while claiming that everybody's animals are being mistreated and suffering and that everybody, other than yourself of course, isn't taking care of them and whatever nonsensical drivel you drool out of the side of your babbling mouth. All of us that you berate here love our animals and take good care of them even though you constantly tell us that we don't know what we are doing but then again, in your hypocrisy of claiming you don't know us, how would you even know how we keep our animals? Fact is, you don't. I think the majority of us that you continually berate offer proof over your incessant lies on just how successful we are over and over. You on the other hand...

In conclusion, I offered you an olive branch and you beat me over the head with it. At this point Frank, you've taught me to never make that mistake with you again. Thanks for finally teaching me something!
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Troy Rexroth
Rextiles

DISCERN Feb 15, 2013 08:58 PM

Troy,

Your post is completely spot on.
Being a real herper means you not only say you love the animals, and all that goes along with it, but you actually put to practice what you say. That means showing respect to all.
We all can differ on how we do things, or how we view things, and have differences of opinion. However, as Frank has shown, it is not even that simple.
Ego is one of humankind's worst follies. I think seeing how bad in some ways the world is, is only the silver lining of proof.
Unfortunately, in our hobby, we have some that are only driven by their ego. Those are the kind that troll forums, belittle others, and are so egocentric, it makes the hobby not even fun anymore for others. That makes it all about them, and them trying to battle their insecurities by belittling others. That really is the case.
Part of respecting the animal and the hobby is respecting others as well. For people like Frank, it is apparent he simply does not. I would not even use the word " herper " in the same sentence as him, because the real herpers I know would never act like him, to begin with. Never.
Again, ego and selfism is what ruins it for many others. Those who are trying to be the self-appointed big shots of our hobby miss what it is all about to begin with. To me, they are not real herpers, as they do not engage the joy of having our animals, to the fullest extent. Part of that, is respecting the community that makes up our hobby.
Weed those types of people out. Give them less and less attention. Don't respond to them on the forums. The less attention they get, the less of a platform they have to spew their egocentric ramblings. Once they get tired of no attention, they leave. Then, the headaches in our hobby disappear.
Again, good post. You really seem to discern ( no pun intended ) how things really are.


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Genesis 1:1

Rextiles Feb 15, 2013 09:50 PM

Weed those types of people out. Give them less and less attention. Don't respond to them on the forums. The less attention they get, the less of a platform they have to spew their egocentric ramblings. Once they get tired of no attention, they leave. Then, the headaches in our hobby disappear.

Thank you for snapping me back out of this negative tug-of-war with Frank. I agree, he's simply not worth the time nor the energy that I've wasted with him. I just get so mad when I get emails from people that feel compelled to leave and not participate here all because of negative people like Frank. But like you point out, it's a fight that cannot be won as Frank feeds off this kind of negativity like a psychic vampire whose thirst can never be sated.

From this point forward, Frank no longer exists in my eyes and he will be ignored, even when he addresses me directly. I've wasted far too much time and energy on him and have burdened the fine people of this forum trying to reach Frank. For this, I apologize sincerely to everyone here!

Thank you again, I really needed to hear what you had to say!

"Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery;
None but ourselves can free our minds." - Bob Marley
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Troy Rexroth
Rextiles

DMong Feb 15, 2013 11:00 PM

Here is Frank's last sentence to me over on the kingsnake forum.

quote: "All you know how to do is attack to make yourself more then you "think" you are"

Tell me that isn't as morbidly comical as it gets coming from the most pompous, egotistical, condescending, self-rightious guy to ever walk the planet?

cheers, ~Doug
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"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

serpentinespecialties.webs.com

Rextiles Feb 15, 2013 11:15 PM

Frank who?
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Troy Rexroth
Rextiles

DMong Feb 15, 2013 11:48 PM

HAHAHAA!!!

Yeah, I have to start doing that again like I used to!..
-----
"a snake in the grass is a GOOD thing"

serpentinespecialties.webs.com

FR Feb 17, 2013 10:10 AM

Yes, you have lost your mind,
YOU SAID
Thank you for snapping me back out of this negative tug-of-war with Frank. I agree, he's simply not worth the time nor the energy that I've wasted with him. I just get so mad when I get emails from people that feel compelled to leave and not participate here all because of negative people like Frank. But like you point out, it's a fight that cannot be won as Frank feeds off this kind of negativity like a psychic vampire whose thirst can never be sated.

First off, there is no tug-a-war, you want to control this forum and run off what you do not approve. Its not tug-a-war. Its a territorial dispute. hahahahahahahaha true.

All I have done is offer other methods to improve a captive snakes lives. That is not negative. Thats a positive. If you want to be negative, a possible positive.

You as mentioned above, are about running folks off(me) Because I am not you. You are negative. You use personal attacks, instead of discussing or debating the issues. That is negative.

Yes, I may be upsetting your personal party, in reality, its NOT your party.

Its a public forum.

What makes this negative is YOU making it personal, as you did again, instead of discussing the issues.

Wisdom is key here and you should understand, all this conversation and not about RIGHT or WRONG. ITs also about what the KEEPER wants to accomplish. Which differs for each keeper. Whats right for you, may not be right for me, and visa versa. I am not interested in what you do, I am interested in other keepers that like the snakes.

I stated my interests(behavior) when I came to this forum. And guess what, as long as I am working with hogs, I will post if I want, and about what I want.

ALso, when I see such things as poor nesting techniques, I will bring up ways to help that, If I can. What you do is up to you. Some people are interested, some are not. I have learned over the years, some folks love help, others hate it. Some folks take everything personal(you), I don't. I am about the animals. Which means, I make mistakes all the time, the fun is learning.

Whats sad to me is, some of you are about morphs, and are expert with genetics. But somewhere, somehow, you missed the snake, all these wonderful morphs are HOGNOSE. Each an individual that does stuff(a bag of behavior). It seems all you care about is base function, to supply you with more morphs. As an older keeper, I am past that. I have learned to love the snakes and what they do.

Its seems all you care about is minimum reproduction and behavior is a side note. For me, behavior is most important and with that supported, the rest is EASY.

Often said here is, I cannot do that because I have too many snakes. sirs, that is your choice and its based on morphs and keeping up with the Jones(an old saying based on urban development)

What you do, is yours to do, but I am interested in behavior, then after that morphs. So sir, strap it on, as I am here for a while. Move your buns over, theres a new cowboy in town(and you really should go and a buy a sense of humnor)

And please please please, do what you said, ignore me. that will make it far more fun. Sir, your no fun. and FUN is where its at. Best wishes

FR Feb 16, 2013 12:08 PM

Your post is great, but before you apply it to others, you must first past that test yourself.

As by rule, this forum is not about personalities, or writting, or spelling or anything of a personal nature. Its about the animals.

Trolling(refer to TOS), like you do is by starting a problem, like you do, then later or even on another forum pointing out a reaction. The question is, who started the disaggreement. But again, that is not subject of this forum.

I copied and pasted the subject on a rely to Troy, read it and read the attached TOS sections. THere is nothing about egos, or any common human attachements, hahahahahahaha. Its about the subject.

Everytime someone or I question a husbandry issue, its responed to by YOU in a personal manner, You and D attack the person who questions husbandry.

THese sites are to QUESTION HUSBANDRY. All of our husbandry.

And because its a public forum, those who read these discussions, can pick and choose what THEY think is right for their own use.

Now to the subject, if you ever talk about my ego, or writing, or anything of personal nature, I will simply send it one to KS. Its not your task or responsibility to talk about anything personal. PERIOD, Keep to the subject(hint, it ain't me)

FR Feb 16, 2013 10:25 AM

Dang troy, your whole post was name calling and nothing to do with the subject.

Yes its about people, but the subject and context is the animals. If not it would be called, the people who keep hognose.

If you read the discription above on the main page, its says, about the KEEPING AND BREEDING AND CONSERVATION of hognose.

It does not say, its about the tender egos of people without a backbone. Or those that need love and use such things as snakes to get it.

Lets take a look at this, when I came here, I was welcomed, as long as I fit in and was like YOU. Once you discovered, I am not like you, I was attacked. Which is normal human horse poop. Again, there are guidelines which are clearly stated on this site. And fitting in or agreeing with you is not on there.

Those guidelines are have nothing to do with me being like you or agreeing with you. The TOS are written to limit how far we can venture off the subject(with discussion). Being a FORUM its basic design is to dicuss DIFFERENT points of view. NOT pat eachother on the back in a giant love fest. Which is what you want.

Its also why no one posts here. All have to meet your guidelines. And I am proud not to.

THe reason you make it about people, is your lacking the ability to make it about the animals. You won't discuss the animals, you won't do what you can to keep it about the animals. All you want is to keep in about you. and patting you on the back.

Each of your posts to me are about how I should act. Guess what, that is not yours to judge. And not yours to force on me or anyone else.

Its KS's responsibility to make sure I act within the TOS. Not yours. And truely not to be like you.

So I recomend that you take a minute and read the rules of this forum, and the aim of this forum. Then ask yourself how it pretains to what you expect of me. Which IS your problem, you have some weird expectations of me. Stop that!

Being, Frank, blunt, matter of fact, rude, or about the animals. The first four are none of your business and you being judgemental of people. The last one is the subject of this forum. The first four are none of your business, the last one is.

And that goes for your tag-alongs, the D&D brothers, as well

If you would only take half the effort and tactics, and stradigy you use with fighing with people(its not just me you know) and apply it to the animals, YOu could be a great keeper.

one thing to think about, with animals, you cannot rationalize, like you do with people, it doesn't work. You do understand, you stating this forum is about people is a rationalization to defend your actions. ITs a hognose forum to discuss hognose. dang dude! Learn to read. Cheers

FR Feb 16, 2013 10:32 AM

Here you may post messages or questions pertaining to all aspects and issues regarding the keeping, breeding, health, and conservation of all Hognose Snakes.

You can click on the TOS and read it, if you wish. Please do. Thank you and best wishes

FR Feb 16, 2013 10:48 AM

Posting personal attacks about individuals is a violation. We welcome discussion and debate on our forums; however, we ask that you stick to the issues, not the other users of the site.

Threats, harassment, disruption, and/or generally "trolling" (seeking to disrupt the site with inflammatory posts and actions) are violations. Technical disruption of the site is considered a particularly serious violation and when appropriate, legal recourse will be sought. Threats of violence will be reported to appropriate law enforcement agencies.

Please note that no rulebook is ever complete. It is always better to be safe and ask before posting, than to post something questionable or in a questionable manner. If you have concerns about something of a questionable nature, please contact the site coordinator of the appropriate site or the Director of Community Services on our Contact Page for assistance.

Sir, In the TOS there is nothing about you acting a my keeper. How I write, what I write, my approach to writing are mine to do, As long as they are within the above.

Your actions are indeed INCLUDED in the TOS, it appear for whatever reason, you want to disrupt, you constantly diverting the discussion from being about the animals to personal attacks on me, are indeed listed above(harrasment)

So sir, please control yourself and stick to these rules.

FR Feb 12, 2013 10:30 AM

Hello, about feeding tests, which I highly recomend. And scenting.

There are two important areas to be looked at. One is prey type and its related scent. The other is conditions.

Many people here and that includes the very experienced, omit the range of conditions. Which includes the basics.

Temps without question effect feeding. We all know and understand, if you have good feeding snake and drop the temps, its slows down then stops feeding. What is not so well known is the effects of humidity. Keepers tend to take humidity as a good or not, type of ordeal. In reality, its like temps. As humidity becomes less optimal, it effects behavior and a little at a time. IT slows down feeding and causes individual snakes to become very picky.

THose two areas are key to feeding response. Also, both work to effect prey type and size of prey items. The better the conditions, the wider the prey range and the greater amount of prey can be consumed. (which means, optimum growth and reproduction) These are easy things to test. And to me, fun to test.

Also overall security effects behavior. Snakes left in the open, often are internally stressed out and that effects feeding.(this does require a explination)

All in all, wild snakes, are not picky, they consume a wide range of prey items and without question. The grab, bite, chase anything that looks, acts or smells like food, then determine the details later. Attempt to duplicate that in captivity.

My approach to husbandry has always been to test this area. Not go by what others do as rule, but as a guide, then test the snake, and I mean the individual snake/s. Which is why I question recipe keeping, its fine as a loose guide, but is very limiting as a rule.

Doing the above gives you a whole new view on what these snakes ARE.

THis is opposed to what I often see talked about here, which I call trickery, instead of changing conditions, which is what reptiles do in nature, in nature the snakes seek optimum conditions BEFORE they feed,

Many keepers tend to keep the conditions the same and trick a snake into feeding. Its not that I am against that, It may be necessary at some point.

The point is, Its best to have the snake at full operating conditions, before you resort to trickery(scenting)

Of course this is not a black or white issue. As there are more behaviors envolved. In nature, they do key on a prey source. That is, when toads are in season, they AIM at that prey source. When eggs are available, they AIM at that and when lizards are available in abundance, they concentrate on that.

Wild individuals often have a set routine established. But that is not what we are talking about. In context, we are talking about CH neonates.

Simply put, well hydrated neonates with proper temps normally do not require trickery.

I hope this helps in your testing. To me, the most fun is this, testing. It suppports keeping as fun and exciting and as a learning experience. Best wishes

P.S. I can help you to understand fertility issues if you want. There are very defined reasons for those events.

H_nasicus Feb 13, 2013 03:44 PM

Actually, with both my western hogs and my ball pythons, I have not noticed a difference in feeding response with differing humidity levels.

For whatever reason, a few of the tubs on my home-built rack tend to get really, really humid. They appear to be random in their location. Both snakes in the humid tubs, and snakes in the dryer tubs feed with a huge appetite during warmer temps and a smaller appetite during cooler temps. They do not feed in different variances from each other, and I have both males and females in humid and dry tubs.

So you can rule out humidity, at least with hogs, and maybe BPs too. Thought I have only two BPs, and that number is too few to represent the species.
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4.3.1 Western Hognose
1.1 Ball Pythons
1.0 Everglades Rat Snake

GoHogWild Feb 14, 2013 10:24 AM

Maybe it's something around the rack? Or, maybe the goofy snake took a dive in its water bowl and started crusing around, depositing water everywhere. I've noticed with "short" containers these soaks or spills (why I only use ceramic!) can up the humidity.

FR Feb 14, 2013 11:04 AM

Hello, first of all, your not saying anything other then one cage is more humid then another.

In context, I am talking about the effects of dehydration. Which is when the water balance inside the snake becomes less then normal.

Or even longterm effects of constant exposure to dehydrating conditions. Snakes are not designed to lose water thru dehydration and behaviorally avoid those conditions.(if they can)

If you want to test this, take neonates and do not give them water. The speed at which they stop feeding is related to how much dehydration they are exposed to. If they exposed to air and more importantly, air movement, they will dehydrate quickly and stop feeding quickly. If they take awhile and can replace fluid levels from water in their food, it may take longer. Or if their is little to no dehydration, the can balance fluid loss with intake.

In nature, they behaviorally limit dehydration as there is no dependency on drinking water.

The first test is, take the water bowl out. See what that does. Let me know. Thanks

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