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mite help

fliptop May 27, 2013 07:11 PM

Well, it's finally happened, after keeping snakes for twenty-seven years, I've got mites!

I honestly have no idea how. I have nineteen snakes, and my tank of three baby corn snakes has the mites in it.

What's the safest recommended method of eradication?

Thanks!

Replies (9)

fliptop May 27, 2013 08:05 PM

If anyone recommends the lice spray from Walmart, can you please specify if it's the NIX or RID brand, and how you actually use it. Thanks!

AaronBayer May 28, 2013 08:44 AM

I've tried a lot of methods in the past, some work and some only temporarily work and you see mites again in a few weeks. I havent had mites in a few years since i went solely to f/t rodents (even pinkies) and began freezing all new bedding for a few days before using.

the method that has worked 100% of the time for me requires some work, but gets the job done.

I clear out my entire snake room, put all snakes in small tubs and coat them in any of the all natural mite sprays available from pet stores (havent used any that dont work). After they've soaked for 20 min or so i'll rinse them off in the sink or bathtub. I take all cages/tanks/tubs to the back yard and clean them very well with soap and water then wipe down with disinfecting wipes. While all of the animals and cages are out of the snake room, i'll spray the entire room top to bottom with lice spray (rid, nix, or generic equate brand). I put the cages minus the water bowls back in the snake room with fresh bedding and spray just a touch of lice spray in the bedding (like a half second burst). I wait an hour or two for the spray to dry completely and put the snakes back in their cages. 2-3 days later i'll replace their water bowl.

That method has worked 100% of the time for me. I've done it twice at 2 different homes and never had a mite problem at that location again. I've never had any negative results either. From what i understand the lice spray can be toxic to snakes if it's still wet and can be ingested, but once it's dry it's completely safe.

I'm sure others will have different opinions and thoughts, but that is what works for me.
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1.1 Argentine Boas
1.1 Dumerils Boas
1.1 Black Milk Snakes
2.3 California King Snakes
1.1 Nelsons Milk Snakes
2.2 Corn Snakes

fliptop May 28, 2013 02:42 PM

Thank you!

JKramer May 28, 2013 09:50 PM

x2 for what Aaron said. A couple months ago I dealt with mites using Rid shampoo to bath the snakes in and the Walgreens brand lice spray for the cages and bedding. During this treatment I ordered a package of Provent A Mite and Reptile Spray off Amazon. Retreated 9 days later using the reptile specific stuff and have been mite free 2 months. Provent and the lice spray are identical, but the human stuff is usually much cheaper. If you have any gravid females, hold off on using any treatment other than water.

Bluerosy May 29, 2013 08:09 PM

Best stuff i Sergents dog flea and tick shampoo.

The green one is the one you want as it has .10 permethrin (SP? is not correct) and ther eis only one other ingredeint which escapes me at the moment.. So don't get one with multiple ingredeints..

Then dilute it with water in a spray bottle and spray away.

The sticky residue it leaves on shelveing will keep mites away for at least 6mo. The soapiness is what makes it sray around.

Basically the same stiff as te expensive prevent a mite only this you can pick up at the dollar store.

Just make sure you get the right one as other Flea and tick shampoos shampoos are toxic. Also there are 2 ways to spell perimethrin and the one with the "Y" spelling stay away from!!!!

Just get the green shampoo for Sargents. Gurantteed best stuff and you can spray directly on teh enakes as well. Just mix in a spray bottle w/ water.
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"the fact of the matter is if folks want "pure" types they should go snake hunting. or at least do some research on potential breeding stock and not just pick anything up anywhere show/petshop"

Thomas Davis

fliptop May 30, 2013 04:30 PM

Thanks, Rainer!

Bluerosy Jun 01, 2013 12:30 PM

Also I found this info on Provent a mite.. But i think the Sergent Dog shampoo is better and SAFER.

Why we recommend Provent-a-mite in particular

Mites are a terrible problem in a collection but with the right tools they can be eradicated quickly! I see a lot of posts where people say they use various homebrews and products not patented for use on animals or even tested for safety. In my opinion, Provent A Mite (www.pro-products.com) is the best product out there for getting rid of these nasty little bugs. There are a lot of people who say that Provent A Mite (PAM for short, not to be confused with the cooking spray!) has the same ingredients as bedding sprays or other products meant for use on mammals. I made the following post on a thread (http://www.[url ban]/forums/s...ighlight=mites) about a year and a half ago. Hopefully it is helpful in making your decision on what product to use. In the end, everyone needs to make their own decision about what is best for the animals in their care. Best of luck!

I spent about 30 minutes on the phone with Bob Pound, the manufacturer of Provent A Mite. He may be the most knowledgeable person about pest control and the chemicals used this side of my local exterminator. I am sure the information that he provided which I will post here will be dismissed as bias by those who believe beyond a reasonable doubt that Equate is:

A. The same product in a different can
B. Equally as safe for reptiles
C. Equally as effective

Take it as you will, but this information is pretty damn convincing in my mind (which may not be on par with some of the insta-experts that reside here).

Here you go (his direct information will be in quotes):

Claim: Equate is the same product in a different can and is equally safe for reptiles as Provent A Mite

"The word permethrin is a generic name of a group of pyrethroid chemical isomers. This is like saying everything with the word soap is the same thing. Put your wet hand into a box of powdered laundry detergent and see if it is the same as a bar of ivory, but they are both "soap".

Without exception, these other products use a much more toxic isomer as they are all designed to be applied to material that maybe will have the potential for contact with mammals, which have a completely different physiology than reptiles do. These products are designed to be as toxic as possible to get a quick "knock down". These higher toxicities will not harm mammals, but are documented to harm lower vertebrates, including reptiles, fish, amphibians, mollusks and so forth and therefore can be used for these other uses. Also, only a very small percentage of what is in the can is the "active" ingredient, the rest is always a trade secret of the company, so will never be disclosed (only the generic active name has to be disclosed under EPA regulations). Different isomers have differing toxicities and again, only a range of the cis-trans ratio is given on a label, so one can never find out what is really in the can (again trade secret).

Since a product is only approved by the EPA for the uses listed on the label, chemicals in the formula that are not toxic to the host for the testing submitted, doesn't mean they would not be toxic to a host not listed. In fact many of the "inerts" used in these permethrin formulas are toxic to reptiles. If the company tried to receive EPA approval with these formulas for use on reptiles, they would not, as the EPA would not allow a product to be sold that would harm the host listed on the label. This is why the EPA regulations state that it is a federal offense to sell or use a product inconsistent with the label, not only because of the risk to the host, but also because such usage can create resistance.

Many products for example, use a more toxic isomer and then use a synergist such as PBO. PBO breaks through the insect's defense and its synergistic activity makes the insecticide more powerful and effective. With the high cost of insecticides, PBO effectively reduces the cost by allowing the product to use les s active ingredient to obtain the mortality rate desired. The problem with this is PBO is absolutely toxic to reptiles with several published studies regarding using PBO for the killing of brown tree and other snakes confirming this.

Despite anyone's claim to the contrary, many of these other "identical" products have injured and killed many reptiles as we get the phone calls from people telling us after the fact. Also many times, the exposure can lead to chronic health problems instead of an acute reaction, so if the animal dies at a later date, no one looks back and understands the actual cause of death. This is a classic example with no pest strips. No clinical studies were ever performed and people just started using them, using their animals as guinea pigs. Only after many years of usage were the risks associated with them disclosed. This has been established by many leading zoos and vets, but even now, many people still swear they are the best thing to use and do not pose any risk."

Provent-a-mite™ is the only product that has been approved by the EPA and USDA], has undergone extensive clinical and field studies to insure that will eliminate, not just control a mite or tick problem and is unique enough to have received a patent. No other product is more effective or can make these claims and certainly no other product is the same as Provent-a-mite™”

Claim: Equate (and other similar products) are equally as effective in killing mites and their eggs

"Provent-a-mite™ is the only product that will create residual protection that will not drop down to levels that can create resistance. We use a proprietary "time" release that ensures that it will create a long term residual effect at a high enough concentration to prevent the potential t o create resistant pests. Since mites and ticks can carry several diseases that can be harmful or fatal to the host, just getting an infestation is already too late if the pest was infected. Applying Provent-a-mite™to a cloth and then wiping around any openings in a cage will provide a barrier that will last a minimum of 30 days (usually 60 to 180 days). This will kill any ectoparasites before they can infest and potentially infect an animal. None of these other products can do this as their formulas are designed to break down very quickly, often in as little as 48 hours.

Provent-a-mite™ is also one of the least expensive methods when one compares the cost per application and the number of applications required. To treat an average 4' x 2' cage is approximately 50¢ with usually only one application required. To use the product preventatively, the cost for an average cage is about 5¢. The product has an average shelf life of 7 years. One of the biggest problems is that many people overuse the product, so the can will not treat as many cages as it actually should, costing more to use it than necessary.”
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"the fact of the matter is if folks want "pure" types they should go snake hunting. or at least do some research on potential breeding stock and not just pick anything up anywhere show/petshop"

Thomas Davis

Aaron May 31, 2013 11:30 PM

Be careful with Provent-A-Mite. It works really well but it can dehydrate and kill your snakes if you put too much on the substrate. I almost lost one snake to it but I caught it in time and changed the substrate and gave it water everyday and it was fine in a week.
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www.hcu-tx.org/

Splitfire59 Jun 04, 2013 10:50 PM

I've had great results using 5 strength seven dust. Leave it in the cage for 4 days. You don't even have to use that much. I've had zero ill effects on my snakes whatsoever. It kills the mites but not the eggs. It takes the eggs 4 days to hatch, so it takes 4 days to kill the last of the mites. DO NOT use the 10 strength seven dust.

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