>>I have had Josiah since he was 8 wks. old (the breeder let us take him because 1)we had had a previous Yorkie and 2) he was well socialized and his weight was good. He has been a challenge in many ways; as he is the biggest Yorkie I have ever seen, and he acts very much like a Jack Russell, very energetic; to say the least. I know that he is very intelligent, and when he is in a mind to be so, he is extremely loving and cuddly. I have a couple of issues, he is very mouthy and he sometimes does not have a 'soft mouth', he doesn't actually come out and bite but in playing he can nip. I have been doing time-outs with him, and remove myself from his presence, and he is contrite afterward, but soon he'll drift back into his mouthing play. I admit he is better than he used to be, but he is much bigger now, and I fear in meeting people that he might nip someone. He never has, and has not shown inclination to do so. >>>>>
I like to teach dogs a specific cue for "Close Your Mouth," with praise. I hold the collar at the back of the neck with my left hand--not pulling on it, just for leverage until the dog gets used to the maneuver and relaxes--and encircle the dog's muzzle with my right hand. At first, I gently restrain for just about 5 seconds, and gradually work up to 15 seconds. It never needs to be more than 15 seconds. It's gentle, not causing the dog to bite his lips or tongue, and I praise--"Close Your Mouth. GOOD Close Your Mouth." If the dog wants to lick me, I hold the mouth where it will open enough for the dog to "kiss"--and I encourage the "kiss" at other times, to give the dog a different outlet for the mouthiness. Remember that the dog has no hands! So it's natural for them to use their mouths. It's natural for a terrier to use the mouth less-than-gently, too, because these dogs were not bred to handle livestock with little nips like the sheep dogs, or to handle game gently when retrieving for the hunter so that the game could be used for human food.
After awhile, the dog will learn when you say "Close Your Mouth," to remember to get teeth off people. If you use this cue every single time your dog puts teeth on human skin, eventually the dog will stop doing it at all. Be sure to remember to praise your dog sincerely every time the dog remembers not to mouthe humans!
>>>>My other concern are pottying and leash training. He is in class and I know that in time he will be fine; it is just getting there. He is paper trained however, he doesn't seem interested in going outside. For the last 2 weeks I have been taking him out every 2 hrs, sometimes he goes and sometimes he'll come in and go on his puddle pad. I did not crate train him at first, as we had a severe winter, I was working then, and shame on me. I am not sure how to handle this guy, as my previous Yorkie was so very different. Help please. I want Joe to be happy, well adjusted, and to reach his potential, he is a great dog. Yorkiemom>>>>
You're right that the habits from not getting right on this and staying with it consistently are the problem now! I'd take the dog out once an hour, and find ways to increase the rewards when he does potty outside.
Besides diligently staying with the class, teach your little guy to retrieve as a way to interact with him in a positive manner and help him exercise off some of his excess energy. There are lots of gentle methods around now for this training. A fun one is in Pat Miller's book "The Power of Positive Dog Training."
Class will help you with the leash. Keep in mind that the person has to keep the leash loose in order for the dog to learn to do the same. If the dog is going to pull on a particular walk and you're not going to work on teaching him to keep the leash loose, use a chest harness for that walk to protect his throat. I don't recommend this for big dogs, but a Yorkie is controllable on a harness.
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Kathy Diamond Davis, author, "Therapy Dogs: Training Your Dog to Reach Others," 2nd edition, and the free Canine Behavior Series at www.veterinaryforum.com