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Its been a few days sence I've been trying to training my dog w/ the leash trick.

I've realized a couple of things.

1. The leash offers both physical control and mental control.
2. Excitement is more the cause of my dogs jumping then greeting new people is.
3. Its better when your dog doesnt jump on people. :-P

It seems as though if my dog has a leash attached he thinks we are in control - and thus slightly more mild mannered.

Over the last few days I've also realized that if he isnt excited when he greets people he doesnt jump, but the minute you make him excited he wants to jump up.

I did like you said and made him sit and stay for 5-15 minutes when we visit my grandparents in the morning. Its almost like he forgets they are even there - which is awsome. HOWEVER, if we say anything in a slightly more exciting voice -- he gets all excited and will jump again (at any time not just first time greetings).

So the trick is to stay calm, and let him get over it. Of course he cant do this on his own --- which leads to my second question.

After doing this for long enough will he eventually be able to 'get over it' on his own?

Thanks again -

I'm glad to hear that the leash is helping out a bit, and that you've been able to assess the problem and realize that it's not just new people causing it

You said he's a wheaten terrier right? I've never had or met one but I've been told that they're akin to corgis in the way that they are over-excitable all their lives. I've also been told that they never really slow down, also like corgis.. If that is in fact the case I can sympathize as mine is a corgi mix and has all the temperament of one

I'll tell you what has worked for my dog but it's a little different because my dog is aggressive toward most strangers (really, really aggressive.. I guess that's the german shepherd in him). With Kaiser, the leash stays on while we're in the house at all times. We have a different leash that serves as his "walking leash" and we take him outside for potty on his inside leash. That way he knows the difference and doesn't try to run off for a walk every time we go outside.

Anyway, when visitors are coming over I get his kong stuffed and ready and then put it in the freezer. Kibble with a little melted cheese to hold it together works well. Then we watch for the guests and when they start coming up the walk I pick up his leash and go to the kitchen with him, telling him "would you like your kong?" while Matt gets the door and ushers our guests inside. I bring Kaiser from the kitchen (holding the leash) and tell Kaiser "down" before he gets his kong. It takes him about 20 minutes to empty the thing if it's stuffed well and by then he forgets that there are guests even there. I think while he's chewing away he gets used to their smells and voices and when he's finished it's as if they have always lived with us..

For Kaiser it works because he is extremely food oriented, he'll do absolutely anything for it and nothing else in the world can make a difference. It's also important for him that he connects guests with very good things to help him learn not to be aggressive toward them.

I don't know your dog but the point of all this is that maybe some distractions would help? You might also try teaching him to catch milkbones that you balance on his nose for a period of time. This was recommended by my vet as a way to teach Kaiser self control and to keep his reactions in check until I give the release. Maybe some self control would help your dog's situation a little?

Yea right. Our dog is anything but food oriented >< (sadly) He often times refuses treats or even table scraps lol.

"Please dont feed the dog from the table... he isnt going to eat it anyways".

We've gotten him several Kongs, and stuffed them with peanut butter milk bones, neither of which he will touch. We have found that he will accept "Meaty bones" its a smoke-flavored like milk bone, and he will accept most softer treats we get him one called "Snauseges". We had a family get togeather a while ago and we got him one of those smoked flavored bones, we thought it would help distract him, but no. He is completely un-like our past dog, or any dog I have ever met.

I have trouble teaching him tricks like 'crawl' or 'stand' because he just doesnt care for the treats.

There have only been two people my dog has ever acted aggrissivly toward, and thats one of my grandfathers (well step-grandfather I guess) and one of my Cousins. I believe its because they try to stop the dog from sniffing them, I.E. put thier hands up/infront of him. Thankfully they dont visit very often.

And what was that? Your dog is a Corgi-German Sheperd mix? Isnt a corgi a small dog and a German a fairly large dog? Whats he look like? Once at the vet I met a Beagle-lab mix.

And yes, from everything I've read wheatons stay hyper thier whole life. This isnt a bad thing, aslong as we can train him.

Thanks yet again, will keep you posted on his progress.

Hmm.. You say he won't even take table scraps most often, does that include meat? Maybe something smellier would help a little, like little pieces of hot dogs or bacon?

Yes, German Shepherds are fairly large (80 lbs) and corgis are pretty small (around 30lbs). He looks a lot like a German Shepherd Dog (GSD) only his legs are very short. They're still thick and huge but very short.. We always get comments on how unusual he is He weighed 30.4lbs at our last vet visit..

one more..

Awww... Adorable. The Beagle/lab mix I mentioned earlier was the same way, he had a large body head and shorter stocky legs.

And yes, he will even refuse meat. We had gotten him a pork bone thing, (not sure what its called but I think you make soups with it) because a family member recommended it. It has marrow, atleast I think thats what it is, inside the bone and a little bit of meat on the outside. The first time we got him one of these he thouroghly enjoyed it. The second time he could care less, for the most part.

We have gotten him raw hide bones, which he seems to always like however he eats them so fast he chokes, so we stay away from them now. The same goes for bacon bits - the dog treats not real - he chokes on them.

I'm not sure we have ever tried giving him real bacon, or hot dog pieces. I did give him cheese once inside of a kong which he liked. The problem is (at least I think) that he get bored with the same things.

So your suggesting stuffing his Kong with Bacon or hot dog bits? Raw or cooked? I'm sure he would take it at least once^^ but not with company. When there is anyone else over he couldn't careless about any of his toys or any food.

I think he is just a dog that thrives on physical attention?

Hmm.. That is tough..

I don't think I would stuff a kong with hot dogs or anything, such a large amount of either hot dogs or bacon would yield salt and fat contents I would be concerned about giving all at once..

I just suggested it as training treats. Sometimes when the distractions are just too much but I need Kaiser to pay attention anyway hot dogs will do it where we normally use kibble..

So it sounds like food won't work out.. If he really does thrive on physical attention you'll have to find a way to make that work for you. You might try clicker training.. You can use praise and petting as rewards since that's what he wants the most. It's much healthier anyway. Kaiser and I have to do his training before his meals - that's how he eats one of his meals each day so that he's not getting too much food overall..

Anyhow, if you would like a more in-depth explanation on how you would condition him to it let me know and i'll explain it. If you happen to already know, there's no point in putting it all down right now

Clickers are inexpensive and available at almost any pet store. You could also use anything else that makes that noise as long as you always use the same thing (a loud ball point pen, for example). Basically he learns that every time he hears a click, something great follows (for Kaiser it's a treat, for him it will be "good boy.." and a very quick pet or scratch). I would make sure to say it calmly and quietly though, as he sounds excitable and you don't want to have to spend 10 minutes calming him down every time he gets something right

Once he knows that clicks are good, you can use it whenever people are over. At first you'll have to be very quick and you won't be able to pay attention to the guests at the same time so if you can have someone else greet the guests and show them in while you have the dog (on his leash) with you a step away from the crowd. Stand on the leash and allow just enough slack that he can get his front feet a couple of inches off the floor. When he tries to jump, ignore him. But the very second his feet touch the ground, click and praise. He might get excited all over again (or still be excited from the first time) but that's alright. Stay on the leash, and remember to click and praise as soon as those front feet hit the floor again. Remember to remain calm so you don't add too much to his excitement, and always click when his feet touch the floor whether it seems like it was an accident or not.. He'll start to realize that he gets attention and clicks when he's on the floor. When the jumping slows down (this could take days, weeks, or months depending on the dog. Don't rush it though, take tiny baby steps the whole way or you'll wind up atthe beginning again) start to wait a second or two before clicking. Then gradually move to 5 seconds, then 10, then 20, then 30, etc. When you've got it up to about two minutes where he will stay on the floor without a click, start back at 1 second clicks without stepping on the leash and move your way back up to two minutes again.

It will take time and even more importantly, maturity.. So don't be surprised if you don't see results immediately. It will mean he'll be on a leash with you any time there are strange people around for months but be consistent and it will get through.. It's up to you if you want to try it, but I hope it helps a little anyway

>>Its been a few days sence I've been trying to training my dog w/ the leash trick.
>>
>>I've realized a couple of things.
>>
>>1. The leash offers both physical control and mental control.
>>2. Excitement is more the cause of my dogs jumping then greeting new people is.
>>3. Its better when your dog doesnt jump on people. :-P
>>
>>It seems as though if my dog has a leash attached he thinks we are in control - and thus slightly more mild mannered.
>>
>>Over the last few days I've also realized that if he isnt excited when he greets people he doesnt jump, but the minute you make him excited he wants to jump up.
>>
>>I did like you said and made him sit and stay for 5-15 minutes when we visit my grandparents in the morning. Its almost like he forgets they are even there - which is awsome. HOWEVER, if we say anything in a slightly more exciting voice -- he gets all excited and will jump again (at any time not just first time greetings).
>>
>>So the trick is to stay calm, and let him get over it. Of course he cant do this on his own --- which leads to my second question.
>>
>>After doing this for long enough will he eventually be able to 'get over it' on his own?
>>
>>Thanks again -

It's very possible that your dog will start naturally greeting people with feet on the ground if you train with the leash in all these situations for long enough--it has worked that way for my dogs. But "long enough" can be a lot longer than you might expect. You have to bear in mind if a dog is very young they will have to get some maturity in order to develop more self control. Also if a dog has been jumping up for a long time, they'll need your leash guidance for a long time in order to form a new habit.

Dogs vary a great deal, but most dogs will develop a habit if you guide them every single time to do it that way, until they just automatically do. As soon as possible, you want to be doing the guidance with the leash kept completely loose and you directing the dog through body language and words. That way the dog is less likely to be dependent on the leash and is learning to listen to you rather than to leash pressure. Don't be too quick to take the leash off, but work toward LOOSE LEASH as soon as possible.
-----
Kathy Diamond Davis, author, "Therapy Dogs: Training Your Dog to Reach Others," 2nd edition, and the free Canine Behavior Series articles at http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=SRC&S=1&SourceID=47

Ok. Thanks.

That makes sense. I realize that the dog will mature some. But I forget. We had a 10 year old Golden before this dog, and I forget that this guy is still just a pup and he didnt start off where the other dog left off lol.

Well thanks again, will keep you posted.

>>Ok. Thanks.
>>
>>That makes sense. I realize that the dog will mature some. But I forget. We had a 10 year old Golden before this dog, and I forget that this guy is still just a pup and he didnt start off where the other dog left off lol.
>>
>>Well thanks again, will keep you posted.

>>>>>>>>>>>

I have a dog that I actually taught to jump all over people--I was young and foolish! She's 12 now. I realized that was dumb, so I retrained her, gently. Just no petting when she jumped up, constant reminders to greet with feet on the ground, plenty of petting and praise when she did. She learned GREAT, both with us and with other people. It took, I don't know, maybe a year before she just was not jumping up at all, unless invited.

Do not let anybody rough the dog up in the name of teaching not to jump on people. That can "teach" the dog that guests are not to be trusted! Instead of the fast and dirty way, take the slower way that is safe and effective and brings your dog into a reliable friend. Use a leash, maybe give the dog a toy to hold, maybe treats for sitting--turn every greeting into a positive training session. By doing that, you will accomplish this training and more at the same time.
-----
Kathy Diamond Davis, author, "Therapy Dogs: Training Your Dog to Reach Others," 2nd edition, and the free Canine Behavior Series articles at http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=SRC&S=1&SourceID=47

hopefully someone will get to this message. i have a 7 month old english mastiff. he is a great dog until he hears the door bell or sees someone new. i've read all of the messages of "jumping on people". our dog weighs 105lbs & will double in weight. i cann't control him with a lease. i've tried to distract him while he is excited, but it just doesn't work. does anyone else have any other ideas?