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I recently purchased Midwest’s Python Hook for working with my ever growing western gaboon viper. I ordered it cut down to 40” to match my standard Midwest hooks and had the 2 grips spaced at 14” end to end. This allows me to use a standard hook to lift the front third of my gaboon’s body, and then ease the python hook beneath the rear third to support the bulk of the weight. I rest the ends of both hooks under my forearms to give me more leverage.

When the hook arrived, I was amazed at the sheer bulk and strength of it. My hat’s off to Midwest and their excellent snake handling equipment. This is a HUGE hook. However, I also immediately thought of a couple of custom modifications that could be made to better suite my needs.

First of all, the end of the 2-1/4” wide hook was cut square and extended about 2” past the centerline of the shaft. I decided to cut 1-3/4” off the end, and then to grind the end of the massive cast aluminum hook down to a tapered, rounded end. This would allow me to get under the snake with less effort.

Even after this modification, I decided the hook was still just a little heavy and that its massiveness was overkill for my purposes. So I decided to “skeletonize” it using a 3/8” drill bit and a ¾” countersink in order to remove as much metal as possible without sacrificing much strength. The raised “rib” that runs down the outside center of the hook increases the moment of inertia of the cross-section of the hook, so drilling holes beside it doesn’t significantly affect it’s strength. It’s the same concept used in the design of an “I” beam, basically. The hook is still so strong, after modification, that I can place the tip on the floor while gripping the shaft and support my 175# body with only the slightest deflection. Finally, I hit it with some wet/dry sandpaper to remove any rough edges. Here’s some pics of the finished product:

Please note that I DO NOT intend to sell this hook, nor is this post an advertisement for the modification or sale of similar products. I just thought my “Monster Hook” was pretty cool and that some of you would like to see it.

Adam Stockton

Man thats one of the best ideas I've heard in years!

Good luck with the hook

Van

you should show this to Dana.

I emailed the link to tongs.com and got a reply complementing the hook, but I don't know if Dana saw it.

hi, you must be an engineer speaking of 'moments of inertia'? I am a bridge engineer..that looks like quite a tool.

having barely survived a wild gaboon bite myself, I am interested if snake keepers like yourself keep your own stock of antivenom? do your exotic snake permits require this? whats it like having a gaboon viper for a pet? are they generally friendly?..the one that bit me was not provoked at all.

>>I recently purchased Midwest’s Python Hook for working with my ever growing western gaboon viper. I ordered it cut down to 40” to match my standard Midwest hooks and had the 2 grips spaced at 14” end to end. This allows me to use a standard hook to lift the front third of my gaboon’s body, and then ease the python hook beneath the rear third to support the bulk of the weight. I rest the ends of both hooks under my forearms to give me more leverage.
>>
>>When the hook arrived, I was amazed at the sheer bulk and strength of it. My hat’s off to Midwest and their excellent snake handling equipment. This is a HUGE hook. However, I also immediately thought of a couple of custom modifications that could be made to better suite my needs.
>>
>>First of all, the end of the 2-1/4” wide hook was cut square and extended about 2” past the centerline of the shaft. I decided to cut 1-3/4” off the end, and then to grind the end of the massive cast aluminum hook down to a tapered, rounded end. This would allow me to get under the snake with less effort.
>>
>>Even after this modification, I decided the hook was still just a little heavy and that its massiveness was overkill for my purposes. So I decided to “skeletonize” it using a 3/8” drill bit and a ¾” countersink in order to remove as much metal as possible without sacrificing much strength. The raised “rib” that runs down the outside center of the hook increases the moment of inertia of the cross-section of the hook, so drilling holes beside it doesn’t significantly affect it’s strength. It’s the same concept used in the design of an “I” beam, basically. The hook is still so strong, after modification, that I can place the tip on the floor while gripping the shaft and support my 175# body with only the slightest deflection. Finally, I hit it with some wet/dry sandpaper to remove any rough edges. Here’s some pics of the finished product:
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>>Please note that I DO NOT intend to sell this hook, nor is this post an advertisement for the modification or sale of similar products. I just thought my “Monster Hook” was pretty cool and that some of you would like to see it.
>>
>>Adam Stockton
>>