Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I figure I would start by saying Hello! I was referred to this site by a friend after speaking with her some about taking care of a tarantula she had long ago, She breeds and raises exotic birds now. She said I would be able to find a good deal of information from this site, and I really have learned a lot in many different areas of taking care of a T as you all seem to call them.

Anyway, I have been thinking about getting a T, and think they would be really neat to be able to watch grow, also the period of time they can survive (well females mostly) and of course the Taboo of owning something that when the average person sees gets freaked out . One other reason I would like to have one is because they seem much more low maintenance then other "pets" if thats what there called. and I don't really have a lot of room where I live, and can't have anything like a dog or cat.

I have been reading on some sites about whats the best species to get for beginner keepers, and of course the first one that came up majority of the time was the rose. Also there were a few others, but all of the articles except one said that the rose was the best.. I know this might be a ridiculous question, but why is that? As far as reading the other information on the different species the other "beginner" T's had the same description and temper.

I also found this site.. which shows many more as species being good for beginners.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/the.tarantula.store/care-species.htm

Another thing I keep reading about is the T's urticating hairs, I realize that any type of creature kept in captivity has its risks.. I've heard so many different things about it though.. some saying that they can cause irritation, blisters, and sometimes even have to be surgically removed. I also read an article of some one saying that it can cause temporary blindness, and if inhaled can do damage to your respiratory system. How much of a threat is this really. By no means am I trying to say that I want to cuddle with my T as often as I can, but I would imagine most of the hobbyists on this site have wanted to hold them occasionally, at least the calm and docile ones.. I realize that with some of the more aggressive species this isn't even an option and the bigger, more aggressive, and older they are should be treated with that respect.

I also wanted to ask about housing for your T, I've heard anything from a 5-10 gallon tank.. to some makeshift tub you would using to tote things away. Is it really that customizable? I would like to have a decent set up for my T, and just want to be able to take care of them how they should be cared for. Also I would feel a little better about his housing if it weren't a shoe box so to say.. no offense to those that have them.

I was also curious as to my location. I live in Northwest Ohio about 45 minutes from Toledo if anyone is familiar, and it seems that temperature control is a very big part of keeping a T in captivity. The summers can get unbearably hot, and the winters can get bitter cold. Should this have an effect of me getting a T and possibly which one? I would imagine as long as there habitat is of proper climate and condition they should be alright?

Lastly I was wondering what you think would work best for a first time keeper. Would a more fully grown T be easier to care for then a spiderling? I like the idea of starting out with a spiderling just because I think it would be neat to care for it and watch it moult and really turn into a beautiful and stunning creature.

Sorry the lengthy message, and I hope it isn't to confusing to read. Also thank you for input on the matter, I'm basically a sponge and looking to absorb as much information on these creatures as I can.

Thanks

G. rosea is usually listed as the best beginner T for a few reason. They are generally pretty tame, very low maintenance, and they are readily available at any pet store that sells tarantulas, and since they are the most common species out there they can be acquired cheaply ($15-$20). Some sites don't list it as best, because occasionaly you'll come across one that is mean or cranky and doesn't make a good handling pet. Also they will go through fasting periods for up to a year, which makes some owners really worry about them.

There are definitely a couple, I'd reccomend higher, but they are not available in pet stores, and you'd have to oder them through an onlone dealer. So if you want to stick to pet store species, then G. rosea is tops!

Urticating setae (they're really bristles, not actually hairs, even though we call it hair) are not generally a problem. If the T is pissed it might flick some but they are normally quite tame and don't. I'll occasionally have some mild itching aftre handling even if they don't flick, but it goes away after about an hour. The worst time is if you go mucking about in their substrate, cause all the hairs they have shed go in there and you can get them when doing cage maintenance. I've never seen airborne clouds that would affect my face, but I've never seen them kick enough to make one either, except on TV.

Plastic shoeboxes are utilized for large collections, because they are cheap and stackable. You can fit a lot of Ts on a shelf if you use them. But if you only have one, of course you'd want a nice looking aquarium as a tank. And yes 5-10 gallon is fine for a 3" G. rosea. Tarantula enclosures run the gammut of reusing old peanut butter or baby food jars for spiderlings on up to custom enclosures that cost hundreds of dollars. Yes it is that customizable.

Basically in your home, if you are comfortable the T will be fine. G. rosea are very hardy and can survive at a range of temps. Their natural range is in a very arid desert area so high temps are not an issue. In the winter temps down to 65-70 are OK. So if you're good, they're good.

I reccomend getting a larger T first. This gives you the instanst gratification of having a big one that you can hold (if you want to) and somehting nice to show folks.

Then if you decide that T keeping is somehtign that you really like and want to own more diverse species, then you can get some spiderlings and watch them grow up.

Plus spiderlings can take a long time to attain a decent size. and this can be a drag for your first one. I've got a couple tarantulas in my collection that are going on 2 years old and are still under an inch in size.

To answer all of your care questions about G. rosea see this sheet:
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~schultz/roses.html

Also if you're serious about getting into the hobby, you absolutely must own "The Tarantulas Keeper's Guide" by Stanley A. Schultz. It is the tarantula keepers bible, it'll tell you most everything you need to know.

Any other questions, feel free to ask.
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KJ Vezino
My Gallery
Missouri Tarantula Enthusiasts Group

I see, well where I live unless driving 45 minutes to an hour, there aren't any pet shops that sell tarantulas. I figure I would be getting one from an online dealer.. Do you think this is a good idea and have you had any experience dealing with online dealers?

Talking about the tarantula keeper's guide I hear so much about, I decided to get a copy myself.

Since I figure I will be buying from on online dealer, what are the few other species that you would recommend above the rose?

Ok, The bristles don't seem like that big of a deal when you put it that way, I also heard that when cleaning the substrate you only have to do that a few times a year? is that true? Also when cleaning do you use any type of glove to avoid the bristles?

Now as far as housing, I have heard that a reptilian type of tank is much better then a re-made fish tank? how do you feel about this? I realize that fish tanks are easier to come by then reptilian like housing. If I end up getting an adult do you think it would be better with going for a tank like housing over anything else? or does it really depend on size?

Thanks for the advice.

I absolutely recommend the online dealers. If you stick with the big ones, you have no worries about getting burned. The only thing about buying from dealers is you have to pay shipping. Priority is around $5, but they will not guarantee that the spiders will arrive alive, because it can take up to 5 days. They will guarantee live arrival if you ship overnight, which can take 2 days depending on where you live, but it costs $22-$25. This can be a heartache for a newbie who only wants to buy a $10 spider. But if you buy 3-4 at a time, then it's like only paying $5 a piece for shipping.

One way to avoid paying shipping is if you can wait until there is a nearby reptile show. These days there is usually at least 1 dealer at even the smallest shows who sells tarantulas. Then you also get the see what you're buying. But as you've indicated, you're kinda remote, this may not be an option. Do you have any small pet stores that could order you one? Most can if you ask. Do you have PetCo? They sell them too.

Here's my dealer recommendations based on the experiences of my friends and I.
www.botarby8s.com – the only one I've used personally, Botar is great!
www.reptistexotics.com – the only one who offers $15 overnight shipping.
www.swiftinverts.com – one of the best in the business
www.southernspiderworks.com – another good one.
www.KenTheBugGuy.com – new, and has some good deals

Here's my species recommendations.

Aphonopelma hentzi (Texas brown) – Easily the most docile T I own. I let my kids (3 years old and up) hold it. You can usually get wild caught adults or captive bred babies for around $10.

Aphonopelma chalcodes (desert blond) – My favorite North American species, long lived, females 30 years or more, and very docile. Very slow growing. I've have 2 that are almost 2 years old and are still under 1". May want to get a juvenile or larger if you choose this one.

Grammostola pulchra (Brazilian black) – Jet black and arguably the most docile T available. The only problem with this one is it is hard to find, and expensive when you do see it, but it is well worth it.

Grammostola aureostriata (Chaco goldenknee) – Gets large, up to 8", and is striped with streaks of yellow on the knees. Docile like a G. rosea, and inexpensive.

If you like nice colors, Brachypelma smithi (Mexican redknee) is a good choice with red orange and yellow on it. It tends to be more of a hair kicker than the previous ones, but it depends on the individual, some do all the time, some never do.
Brachypelma emilia (Mexican redleg) – My favorite Mexican species. A bit stockier than the B. smithi with an interesting triangle on its carapace.

Brachypelma albopilosum (curlyhair) – Setae is curled like it has been freshly blow dried. Usually fairly inexpensive too.

Do a google image search of the scientific name to see a picture of any of them.

Spot cleaning of the tank to remove uneaten food and leftover food boluses should be done daily to weekly as needed (it's a good idea to get some long 10-12" forceps (tweezers) for this). But as far as cage cleaning goes, I haven't touched my cages substrate since I set them up. The oldest set up I currently have was new 4 years ago when I last moved. So you shouldn't need to worry about coming into contact with the urticating setae at all. If needed you could use gloves if you needed to do something though.

What is a reptilian type tank? I've always kept my reptiles in fish tanks. If you are talking about an Exo-terra type tank, they are a waste of money for tarantulas. Maybe if you want a nice show tank for an arboreal species, but other than that, save your money and buy more spiders. Exo-terra tanks do not allow you to put enough substrate in to make it deep enough, because the doors are so tall. A fish tank should be at least halfway filled with substrate, to allow burrowing if the spider chooses to and to prevent injuries form falls if the T should go climbing and slip.

Hope that answered everything sufficiently. Feel free to ask more, I'll be here.
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KJ Vezino
My Gallery
Missouri Tarantula Enthusiasts Group

hentzi is native to southern Missouri , correct? hentzi is on my wish list, but i want an adult female, and mostly only juvies available. just may have to head to missouri and find one.

Aphonopelma hentzi is native to Southern Missouri as well as these states: Arkansas, Texas, Oklahoma, New Mexico, and possibly Colorado and Louisiana. Its official name is the Texas brown but in Oklahoma it's the Oklahoma brown, in Missouri it's the Missouri brown and so on. My A. hentzi was collected in Oklahoma by a friend of mine.

No need to go collect them yourself, adults are available, you just need to know where to look. Larger individuals are currently available here:

http://reptistexotics.com/pricelist.html *** 3" - $20 (This is your Best Buy!!!)
http://www.southernspiderworks.com/InvenList.aspx *** 2" - $26
http://www.tarantulainc.com/tarantulainc2008_002.htm *** 2-3" - $35
http://www.nwinverts.com/price3.html *** 4-5" - $42
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KJ Vezino
My Gallery
Missouri Tarantula Enthusiasts Group

I just found some more A. hentzi (apparently collected from Oklahoma):

2 inch - $25.00
3 inch - $40.00
3 inch - $50.00 (Guaranteed female)

http://www.kenthebugguy.com/index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=f2796c86a0b4db819ec23120626fd70a
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KJ Vezino
My Gallery
Missouri Tarantula Enthusiasts Group

I see what your saying about the online dealers, seem to have a much larger collection. Its very possible I might do something like that, and thank you for the sites they were all very helpful. Also a great way to kill the downtime at work .

Now that I think about it I do believe there is a Petco around here, possibly 45 minutes away, but that isn't too bad. And would I be able to call them and talk to them about ordering a T? and also how reliable do you think a retail store would be in that category?

I think I may go with something like the Texas Brown, seems relatively cheap and quite available, or a Desert Blond. However I have a question, and I'm interested in all the species names and what not.. but I'm just curious whats the difference in an Aphonopelma and a Grammostola? I know this is a very noobish statement, but they all look very similar to me. By no means am I trying to say "pfft, its a tarantula thats all." Just interested in getting to know more about each species. I have to admit after ordering the Tarantula Keeper's Guide, I'm very anxious for it to arrive .

That is crazy, I didn't know they were that low maintenance, 4 years without a single cleaning.. Also this brings up another question though. Is that directly affected by which type of Substrate you use? also what do you feel is the best for a terrestrial type T? Another thing is what does substrate run cost wise? I know you also mentioned that a tank should be filled halfway with the substrate but a lot of housing I've seen from pictures on the site doesn't seem to have that much. I don't mean to pick a fight, just an observation.

I was also doing some reading on the G. Pulchra and I think they are really quite stunning, and would love to get one of those. You weren't joking though when you mentioned the price of them.

My jaw almost dropped to the floor when you mentioned that you let your kids hold them, I think that is really neat that there introduced to them like that. Especially your youngest holding them, aren't you afraid that they could drop the T? Anyway mad props on that.

Well thats all for now as far as questions I can think of in my head.

As for just learning what I have about this creature over the past few days, I've had a blast and really found everything to be very interesting. If this is the feeling I get just with the anticipation of owning one in the future. I'm not going to be able to contain my self when I actually get one.

Lastly I just wanted to say Thank you to Vez, I've seen from this thread and many others on the site that you are quite knowledgable about T's and seem to be very passionate about them. I appreciate all you've done so far to help out a soon to be novice keeper.

The think about getting a tarantula from PetCo is that since they are a big chain store, they have very specific vendors they have to deal with. Thus they are limited to what species they can bring in. The only species that I have ever seen (or heard) were available at PetCo are: G. rosea, Aphonopelma seemanni (Costa Rican Zebra – a burrower), Avicularia avicularia (pinktoe – an arboreal), and every now and then a B. smithi or Haplopelma lividum (cobalt blue – a burrower and not a beginner species). It never hurts to call and check to see if they could order something different for you, but usually smaller pet stores have a better chance of getting to a better selection. The other thing about PetCo is that they know nothing about tarantulas. So don’t ask them anything about them, and don’t really listen to what they say about them, because 90% of the time they are wrong.

There are subtle differences between the different genera that you’ll begin to notice as you look at more and more pictures of them. Aphonopelma for example have much larger chelicerae than Brachypelma do. The 2 genera are fairly closely related and their native habitats do cross in some places in Mexico/Central America. Genenerally though, Aphonopelma are from the US and Brachypelma are form Central America. The Avicularia species are all arboreal. Sometimes the difference in species is so slight that it comes down to the length of a leg segment or the shape of the spermathecae or male embolus. That is not an easy question to answer.

There are lots of good substrates out there, right now pet stores sell a compressed brick of coconut coir sold as Eco-earth or bed-a-beast. You soak it in water and it expands, then you dry it out and use it. A brick is like $5 and would do more than 1 aquarium (I believe). I’ve never used it though. I have always used peat moss from the garden center. For $6 I got a 2.2cu ft bag and had lasted me 4 years and I’m only 1/3 of the way through it. It really all depends on if you plan on getting more, you may want to consider it. Some people mix the two, I sometime pix plain potting soil in with my peat moss. Mix/don’t mix, it probably doesn’t matter. Just some mixes hold a burrow better if you have a T that likes to dig, but the exact proportions depend on your local climate too. More RH will make mixes behave differently (not sure if that makes sencse or not).

Some folks don’t fill the tank halfway with substrate, but they are doing the T a disservice (in my opinion). It doen’t allow deep enough substrate if the T wants to burrow. Even some G. rosea like burrowing. It also sets the T up for getting injured if it climbs up the glass, then slips and falls. Falls of more than a few inches are enough to rupture the abdomen. Care must also be taken, in that regard, that cage decorations are not sharp or pointy at all.

Whenever my kids hold the T, they are sitting on the floor with their hands in their lap. I let it walk from my hand to theirs and if they seem a bit jumpy, then I immediately remove the spider.

Thanks for the compliments, I just enjoy helping other by spreading what knowledge I have.
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KJ Vezino
My Gallery
Missouri Tarantula Enthusiasts Group

I recently spoke with someone from petco last night, and asked them if they had any T's in there store. They said that for now all they have are pink toes, and that they usually get different species in the spring and the summer. Also for my first T I don't think I'm going to get an arboreal species, I have to admit for spiders that can move quickly and jump around I don't really like the idea, and feel that A terrestrial species would be much more suitable for my liking. I did however find out of a pet store in the city that I live in. I spoke with a relative of mine that had just gotten a puppy from there, and he said that he saw a few T's in there store. However they close before I get out of work, and will possibly make a trip over there this weekend.

I see what your saying about the different species, and also am not very familiar with the differents parts of a T. I will have to do some more research before a lot of this starts to stick .

As far as substrate goes, would you say that you have had the best results with peat moss? or also when you mix it with potting soil? I was reading somewhere where they were talking about vermiculite (spelling error?)and that it was a good substrate to use, but also another article saying that some commercial brands of it may contain an asbestos like substance? I realize that depending on the species and its behavioral patterns would determine which type substrate would be best used.

Alright I was just curious as to how much I should use, but a lot of articles say that its good to leave enough space from the top layer of substrate to the top of the tank as far as the spiders legspan is.

Also Another question that I had was lighting for the T's housing. Do they require a certain amount of light, also I was reading as lighting as a heat source for the T. As of now the room I would be keepin the T in can get very cold at night.. so I was curious as if I would need to have some type of heating supply near the tank. I was also reading soemwhere where they said that a light very similar to a black light was sufficient for a Tarantula that needed to be kept on at all hours of the day for heating reasons, but also was reading on these forums that the ultraviolet rays from a blacklight can be very harmful to them?

Now as far as humidity goes do you keep a gauge or something similar to know when your tanks might require more moisture? I was reading that during a moult especially the level of humidity is important because if it is too hot or dry the T will not be able to get its legs out of a moult, but on the other end if it is too moist the T will pratically fall apart after the moult? is this true?

I was also wondering if for a smaller size adolescent T, if something similar to a Kritter Keeper, or something that you would normally see like a smaller lizard in would be sufficient with the vented top, and a place to reach in if need be. I also find it fascinating that spiders can actually climb glass, thats why a secure top is very important.

Thats good though that you let your kids experience things like that, everyone I speak to about getting a T they all think I'm crazy and say that they would never even come close to it. The more I learn the more fascinating I find them to be.

Thanks again for all your help, and willing to sit down and answer all of my questions.

Also I was just curious, a lot of these scientific names that people know these species by. Are these what people would call them when they are talking about them? If I do go to a place that sells and cares for tarantula's I don't really want to sound like an idiot when I ask them if they have a certain species. How do you or how did you learn to pronounce some of them?

I think I've decided on getting a Aphonopelma hentzi, Aphonopelma chalcodes, or Chaco golden knee (I really like the coloration patterns on this one.)

Thanks again.

For substrate, I don't really have a good read on what is better. I've kinda always mixed peat and potting soil, because that is what people said at the time I started. I used to do 50/50 then I found it was too much potting soil so I went to 75/25 and it worked fine. I read recently that some folks use 100% peat and I have used that in some smaller enclosures for spiderlings, but never bothered to change my larger enclosures since what they have is working. I have a good friend who mixes peat moss with the coconut coir stuff, and adds a tiny bit of vermiculite. But he has over 200 tarantulas and needs to make the stuff in bulk.

Vermiculite is not a good substrate by itself. The only thing it is good for is water retention, so some people add a little bit to their substrate. For desert species, like the Aphonopelma, Brachypelma, and Grammostola, moisture in the soil is not required to maintain a higher humidity, so the vermiculite would be a waste.

Ideally you do want the amount of space between lid and substrate to be no longer than the legspan of the spider. This is to prevent falls, and sometimes tarantula will have a weird day and they will climb upside down on the lid. If this happens their claws can get stuck on the screen top and if they fell and hung for a while, their leg could autonomize and fall off (they do grow back). If the substrate was high enough they could still touch the ground if that happened. This is another reason why some folks use a Rubbermaid tub for cages, they don't need to use as much substrate. You could also look into using a kritter keeper. A plastic cage with a bright colored snap on lid that has a flip open door (all pet stores have them). There is one called a reptile ranch and comes in 2 sizes. They are shorter than the regular kritter keepers.

Ultraviolet light is dangerous over prolonged exposure. In general lighting and heating is not required. They dislike bright light anyway, and lights that are used to heat a cage will zap any humidity that is in the tank, causing it to be too dry. They handle a wide range of temps fairly well. I'd say if you're house doesn't get below 65-70 during the day or below 60-65 at night, then you don't need extra heating. Ideal temps are between 70 and 85. My collection is kept at 70-74. It is ok if they are cool during the winter anyway and no doubt it'll be warmer in the summer for them. That's how it'd be in nature for them anyway. They probably just wouldn't be as active, or eat quite as much when it is cooler. But if you want to provide extra heat, a room heater is best, but you could also use a reptile heating mat, but placed on the back of the tank (to one side). This will provide a temperature gradient in the tank. Don't put it on the bottom! Tarantulas instinctively burrow to escape heat, and if they were feeling warm they may burrow right to the source of the heat and cook themselves.

I used to think humidity was important, now not so much, I've thrown my gauges away, they are a waste of money. I keep dry substrate and a waterdish. When I refill the waterdish I overflow if so up to 1/4 of the substrate gets wet. Then I let it dry out completely before doing it again. If you suspect a molt is coming up, then you can mist the tank a little, but in general misting is not required. Some folks mist every day to maintain humidity, but I don't think it is required.

A kriter keeper will not work for a spider who is under 2", they can escape from it where the lid closes. After that they are great. If you get a smaller one, they will usually come in a vial and can be kept in that for a molt or two until they outgrow it. Usually the next step is a delicup, until they are around 2-3". Then they can be moved into larger more permanent homes.

Pet stores will almost never use scientific names, the general public does not understand them. But people in the hobby, and on online forums use them and it is best to use them whenever possible. Common names become comfusing because anyone can arbitrarily create a common name and slap it on a tank. It is not uncommon for the same species to have several different common names. It is also common for 2 different species to have the same common name. For example G. rosea is the Chilean rose, but is also called a rosehair, Chilean rosehaired, Chilean flame, Chilean copper, etc. Also "Hey I just picked up a cool new Zebra tarantula". This could be an Aphonoplema seemanni (Costa Rican zebra) or Eupalaestrus campestratus (pink zebra beauty). Because pet stores usually don't know the difference, I've seen people buy what was labeled A. seemanni, but was actually E. campestratus. By using scientific names whenever possible we hopefully avoid confusion. Make sure that if you buy from a petstore, that they can tell you the scientific name, so you know exactly what you have. Sometimes it is easy to tell, sometimes not. But if they don't have it on the tank, their stock list should show them what it is and they should be able to show you that.

Familiarity with the names come with time. The American Tarantula Society has a few free downloads that may be useful to you:

The American Arachnological Society Common Names of Arachnids list, 5th edition 2003.
http://atshq.org/articles/acn5.pdf

A Key to the Pronunciation and Meaning of Scientific Names of Popular Species
Part I: Pronunciation
http://atshq.org/articles/beechwp1.html

A Key to the Pronunciation and Meaning of Scientific Names of Popular Species
Part II: Meaning
http://atshq.org/articles/beechwp2.html

See the other ATS free downloads here:
http://atshq.org/downloads.shtml

If you really want to dig in and expand your knowledge, then here is a list of links that I put together, on every topic under the sun about tarantulas:
http://atshq.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13140

And don't worry too much about getting pronunciations perfect, almost no 2 people say them the same anyway, but we all know what we are talking about as long as we're close. By using the scientific names you'll sound more educated that the pet stores, that's for sure.

When you do go to the pet store, write down all the species that they have, and ask them what species they can order in. If you have questions about any of them, just ask and I'll let ya know if they are good or not and let ya know if the prices are good too. (if you want) Don't be too surprised if they can't get in some of the species that you want, because unless they are ordering from a tarantula dealer themselves, they may be limited to what their reptile supplier has in stock. Depending on what their markup is, you may be better off buying from a dealer anyways. And usually you can buy supplies cheaper at walmart than pet stores, so figure out what you want, and then shop around.
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KJ Vezino
My Gallery
Missouri Tarantula Enthusiasts Group

I've been reading a lot on the substrate and it seems like there are a lot of people that use a peat moss mix. I also hear that sometimes there are these yellow fungus type thing when they use peat moss, why is this? The first thing that comes to mind is that they are just over watering the enclosue. Also why is 50/50 too much potting soil, I've read on some forums that potting soil will do just fine. Is it because it could possibly hold too much water? Or the T just didn't like it? Wow 200 T's that is quite an impressive collection, that almost seems like it would become over bearing caring for all of them. Wouldn't seem like you would have much time to appreciate them.

Vermiculite seems like it would work better for arboreal species. I was reading on arachnoboards, and almost every user that posted mentioned that they use 100% peat moss for there terrestrials, and 100% vermiculite for there arboreal species.

I spoke with the local pet store that we have by, well at least in the town where I work about there Tarantulas. They said that they had one, and it was a rose hair.. Imagine that . Even though I was looking more towards a G. Aureostriata, I can't help but think the condition of that rose. The person on the phone said she was a female, but I don't trust that entirely. I've heard that they don't take very good care of the animals they have there. It's almost as if they do that so people feel bad and will want to buy them. I know it sounds horrible, but I swear thats there scheme. I plan on going there this weekend since I don't have to work and quizzing them a little and see if they anything about arachnids, hopefully the rose is doing ok.

I know that I've mentioned this before, but I still can't seem to figure out how little substrate that people have in there enclosures.. what you were saying about the legspan makes perfect sense, especially after reading how easy it is for a T to fall a very short distance and have it be fatal. I read another thread on arachnoboards about someones T climbing to the top of the cage hanging by the screen top and falling. And split the abdomen because he only had MAYBE an inch of substrate underneath it, basically getting up from that and withering away. Part of me just wants to yell at them, but I guess thats there method, and I'm sure it can work very well, and those keepers have used that method for a long period of time. I feel like everyday I start doing my research I always seem to find something new, and today would be that when a spider loses a leg that they can grow back, these are really magnificent creatues .

As far as the heating and lighting goes I just wanted to make sure, I was reading somewhere that there was a novice keeper and that he kept a black light over his T's enclosure at all times because he wanted to have something he could keep on all hours of the day, and once again I remember reading that the ultraviolet rays can be harmful. If I would happen to get a reptile heating pad and put it on the back of the tank, depending on if my T burrows or not, I should probably put it on the opposite side of where they burrow. Also I heard of some people using an Infra-red light to look at and check on there T's at time, would it be possible to have a light like this. I'm interested in lighting because my room is fairly dark for the most part. Which I know is good, but when I would want to look at the T and check on it, or possibly show people my T without getting it out of the tank. I just think it would be nice. Anyway, would just like to hear your thoughts on that.

Now as far as humidity levels. I was reading on a beginners guide and they say that desert species according to some material need no extra water besides a water dish. On the arachnoboards someone posted about how there T had been trying to moult for about 10 hours and had gotten a few back legs out of the moult and there carapace but it seemed like the T was stuck. Well from the picture that they took it seemed like its tank was bone dry aside from a small amount in the water dish there was absolutely none on the substrate. It turns out that they were able to save the T by helping her out of her molt by using simple tools and they said the problems were her fangs were caught up in the old skin. I just think some people should do more research about things before they think there an expert. The reason that the thread caught my eye was that the T in danger was a G. Aureostriata. I don't think I'll bother with any extra gauges the overflowing the water dish seems pretty efficient.

I've been thinking of getting an adult T instead instead of something smaller like an sling, just for the fact I think an sling would be harder to take care of. Especially when it comes to a keeping it in a decent container also for feeding. Do you think there harder to care for, and also what would you feed a small sling. I heard of people keeping a group of slings together so that they would purposely eat each other and rule out the weaker ones. I understand the concept, but I just think it sounds terrible.. I was also thinking about a juvenile possibly as well, that way if it is unsexed I have a possibility of getting a female , but who knows I guess it depends on availability.

As far as the scientific names of different T's I think I am starting to understand some of them. Maybe not when they have them abbreviated like A. seemani or something to that nature. But when someone says B. Smithi, or B. Emilia, also I've become pretty familar with the Grammostola group .

What do you think a G. Aureostriata would run? The more I read about them the more there becoming easily my favorite, I especially like there color. I was thinkin though do all spiders have the same patterns? and is it possible they could have different colorations? or is it already in there makeup and just comes in as they moult? Also If a T would live anywhere from 25-30 years how many times would they moult?

Also thanks for all of the links to the sites, I'll be sure to look at them when I get a chance, and will work on the pronunciations.

I spoke with they yesterday just about which T's they had. Today I plan on giving them a call and seeing if they can order any species, also I need to get the price of that rose, I feel that its in terrible conditions and will end up getting that somehow . But I will be sure to keep you updated on the situation, also with a list of what they can get and the price.

I was thinking the other night and a few questions came to mind. How sensitive are T's to sound? I was thinking that if I were holding a T and something would happen like the lid would slam while trying to open it would the T be startled and jump out of my hands? Or if I may have a family member ask to hold them, I wouldn't want the T to be startled in any way, I realize that sitting on the floor while doin this would probably best. Just wanted to make sure to not endanger them. I realize that if the T or the person that is interested is nervous or scared at all that it shouldn't even be attempted but just wanted to see how you felt.

How many T's do you own if you don't mind me asking? You seem like one of the most knowledgable people that I've seen help people and constantly are digging up sources for people. Also how long have you been in the hobby?

I would have replied sooner but I wrote something about this size yesterday but apparently wasn't logged in.. so when I went to post the message it went to the login.. losing everything.

Thanks for any input

I was also wondering about why a lot of people use peat moss, especially for desert type species.. wouldn't majority of what was around them be sand in the first place? also maybe some rocks? I would think in there natural habitat they would be able to burrow if need be, but I hear that sand is a terrible substrate.. I can easily see why. Just curious about natural habitat.

I've never seen fungus in my peat. If it does occur though, it is because there are spores in the peat and they start to grow when the humidity gets up. Keep it dry and you'll never have that problem. Dry substrate prevents mold, fungus, mites and is better for the T overall.

Plain potting soil will work as a substrate, but it doesn't hold a burrow if they choose to dig. I've found that 50/50 is still too much potting soil to support a burrow. That is why I like more peat in the mix.

Vermiculite is fine for arboreals because they require higher humidity anyway and the vermiculite hold a bunch of water, plus Avicularia sp. rarely go on the substrate.

Generally, lights do not bother the Ts. Black lights and red lights do not work very well for allowing you to see your T, the colors will always be off. Whenever I want to look at my Ts I just shine a regular flashlight in on them. The light has never bothered them and they don't run from it. (Keep it simple, again spend less money on stuff and buy more Ts)

I don't think that slings are harder to care for, a bit more challenging, but no harder. There's a bit more to worry about with slings, as humidity is a bit more important to them. Small slings get a pinhead cricket or even half of a small cricket. I usually squish the cricket heads or cut it in half when giving it to a very small sling (1/2" or less), it makes it easier for the sling to get it. Some folks give slings wingless fruit flies or small pieces of mealworm.

Some people do keep slings together for a while, but you also have to understand that some species can have 2000 spiderlings at a time. (most average 200-400) With that many slings if you did separate them all you'd have a tremendous time and money commitment into them for housing and feeding. Plus, early stage cannabilism like that is natural and happens in the wild. Not saying I agree with it entirely, but just providing some rationale.

I just did some looking on some dealer site and the largest G. aureostriata I could find was 2", Most were smaller. Larger ones are harder to find and prices go up quickly when they get large. Here's the best of what I found.
http://www.botarby8s.com/ - 1" - $10 (this is the best price I've seen for this size)
http://www.tarantulainc.com/ - 2" - $40

Not quite sure what you're asking about colors. Each species has it's own unique color or pattern. Some species have color morphs where the adults have darker/lighter colors, but generally they all look them same. Most species are born colorless and their colors develop over time. Sometimes they change a lot as they grow. Look at Avicularia versicolor adults and spiderlings to see what I mean. Different species are quite differently patterned and look nothing alike. Look at pics of Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens, Poecolitheria regalis, Pterinochilus murinus, Psalmopoeus irminia, Heteroscodra maculata, and Nhandu chromatus for some examples of various colors/patterns.

Spiderlings molt about 4-6 times a year as they grow. Some grow fast and can attain several inches of growth in a year, some grow slow and stay under 1" for 2-3 years, as they get around 3-4" their molting slows to about 1-2 times a year. Once they are full grown it is generally 1 time per year, but they may even skip a year as they get older. Some very old ones will only molt every 3-4 years.

Tarantulas can't 'hear' per se, so sound isn't really the issue, it is the corresponding vibration that comes with the sound that they can feel. Listening to loud music with a lot of bass is likely to stress the T out because they will not be able to escape the vibration.

For new folks or kids who might be jumpy, I have them sit on the floor with both their hands open on their knee. I have them hold still and I just let the T walk over their hand and back onto mine on the other side. Once they feel it walk across their hand they usually calm down even more, because it does not feel anything like what they were expecting it to feel like. It's more like little Q-tips hitting your hand rather than prickly bug feet.

I have 7 tarantulas right now. I had as many as 18 at one point. But my wife is not too keen on the collection so I've culled the numbers a little bit. If I had my way I’d probably have 20-30 of them right now. It's weird but it's like an addiction. Once you get one, you just want to get more. I've been in the hobby for about 7 years.

In the wild desert species do have burrows in sandy substrate. It is compacted and has other stuff in it so it holds together and stands up to burrows. But sand in the aquarium is very fine and soft and doesn't provide a good footing. Most things that apply to a tarantula in the wild are null and void the minute you put them in captivity.

I would have replied sooner, but I was out of town for a few days.
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KJ Vezino
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