My new Dickersonae is slowing his eating and sleeping alot. I think he wants to brumate, but I have never done this before. Can you guys help me on how to do this? Remember, I am in AZ.

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Thanks and Take Care,
Geoff Orr
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My new Dickersonae is slowing his eating and sleeping alot. I think he wants to brumate, but I have never done this before. Can you guys help me on how to do this? Remember, I am in AZ.

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Thanks and Take Care,
Geoff Orr
I live in Southern Ca and it's warm here as well. Some of my lizards go under the rocks in their cages on thier own. My dickersonae have been under for a month but my vestigium female has been under since late July. Most of my collareds won't go under so I force them under. You can do it the way I do it or by getter a refrigerator. Here's how I do it:
Collared lizards are fairly easy to breed in captivity. They must hibernate at least two months but can be left in this state for several months. Two weeks before hibernation, stop feeding them so their entire gastro-intestinal tract will be empty. Failure to completely empty the GI tract will result in colitis abd certain death of the lizard during hibernation. Turn off the heat sources and slowly cool the lizards down to between 50 to 60 degrees. If your room doesn't stay cool enough to induce hibernation, you can hibernate them in coolers. I fill the coolers with several inches of damp sand and with a few flat rocks for the lizards to burrow under. I use blue ice (found in Sportng Goods stores) to cool down the coolers and change it out twice a day. Use a thermometer to regulate the temperature. After hibernation, slowly warm the lizards up by keeping them at room temperature for a day or so, then you can turn up the heat.
I'll be putting mine under in a few weeks so I can pack up their tanks for my move to Arizona.
Just to add to what Will said... I also live in southern CA, and all of my C. dickersonae brumate in their own enclosures, with the lizards themselves more or less determining when to go under, and for how long. Interestingly, C. dickersonae in captivity seem to have little problem brumating under conditions/temperatures that would likely be incompatible (for an extended period) for many other Crotaphytus species. The vast majority of my Dickerson's will actually enclose themselves in their hidepsots as early as August, when ambient room temperatures are at or above 70 degrees for much of the day. Much to my amazement, these lizards lose little if any noticeable body mass during this time, even when brumated for several months. I of course check on them periodically and administer water (via eyedropper). Perhaps the more equatorial latitudes at which this species occurs in the wild, combined with its proximity to the Gulf of California, has accustomed C. dickersonae to thrive under more moderate conditions during the brumation months? Just a thought...
Brock
I'm on the east coast and it does get cooler here. But last year I did exactly what you say you do. Mine sleep when they choose in their own enclosures.
Their temps dropped to room temp or below, 68 maybe, Zuni being one male who choose to sleep on his own at these temps,(last year) was extremeley sexual this year and Hopi had 2 cluthces in a row, and if you remember, he had to be seperated from her, because of sexual aggression, right after she just layed in aug. Also to add mine have never lost any weight either.
As of now, Zuni and Chino the male vestiguim are sleeping ! At room temp. And some of my others are starting to sleep half the day and maybe get up a few hours but thats it. Interesting !
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