Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I am willing to look like a dope and tell everyone what I did wrong, if it will help someone settle in their new uro successfully.

I got an adult acclimated WC Saharan from Doug Dix a couple weeks ago. His temporary tank was all set up and waiting for him. The intent was to keep him separated for a month or three and then introduce him into my large tank with Arthur (female). He started out large, fat and beautiful, but would not eat. I didn't worry too much because I know it's normal for some settling-in time. Long story short, three weeks later he's lost 33g and is very dull looking.

I emailed Doug and told him what was happening. He gave me good advice (warm soak to encourage drinking, then peas and endive), but it didn't work. I finally called Doug last night. The problem was my own stupidity. He's in a 30 gallon tank - I knew perfectly well it was too small for a long term residence, but thought it would be OK for a quarantine tank. I didn't realize I would kill him in a matter of weeks by keeping him there.

DON'T keep your newly acclimated uro in a tank smaller than 55 gallons. Doug uses tanks for fresh imports that are five feet long - they won't make it in a four footer, so they CANNOT go into something small and survive. They WILL NOT eat. They will wither and die.

Fortunately, I at least had brains enough to call Dr. Dix and he straightened me out. Joe is moved to an 80 gallon tank today and already is looking better. Hopefully he'll be on the road to recovery and good health. I just wanted to share my idiocy and hopefully keep others from making the same mistake.
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Torey
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
0.1 Anolis Carolinensis (Leeloo)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)

thats kinda weird he was that affected...I guess it all depends, when my female was EXTREMLY sick i kept her in a 10 gallon so she would have alot of heat. Plus she didn't move around much. I guess it all depends. Once she was fully recovered she moved in with Rico. I keep my baby in a 20 gallon long, it all depends i guess. Good luck!!!
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Lauren
Leos and Uros
1.1 Saharan Uromastyx
0.0.1 Mali Uromastyx
1.1 Jungle Albino Leopard Gecko
1.1 Hypo/Baldy Leopard Gecko
1.1 Tremper Alibno Leopard Gecko

I'm sure it does depend on a lot of things. I should be clear: I was referring to newly acquired, previously healthy, acclimated wild caught adults (not long term captives).

A smaller tank might be perfectly appropriate for hatchlings, sick uros, or maybe even a newly acquired CB. I don't know about any of those for sure. When Arthur was sick, she stayed in quarantine in that same cage for two weeks just fine - she's also 3" smaller and had been with me for a while already.

But I definitely will be more careful with how I house new WCs!!
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Torey
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
0.1 Anolis Carolinensis (Leeloo)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)

I hope he's doing better now that he's in a larger cage. I did the same thing when Houdini (my male Saharan from Doug Dix). I only had a 29 gallon aquarium so I kept him in that for over a week. I expected him to be stressed because of the new home, but I didn't realize that by having him in a small enclosure could potentially be harmful to him. I'm so glad you talked with Doug. He's such a great guy and he gives the best advice because he's been there and done that.

Keep me up to date on Joe's situation. And please let me know if you need any help. I'm only 15 minutes away. If Joe refuses to eat for a long period of time I wouldn't hurt to get some nurishment into him. And I don't know if you have any help to do that. With my husband and I, it takes both of us to hold Houdini and get the Critical Care and Bene-Bac slurry into him. I don't have much of that left, but I believe Doug recommended baby food - pea flavor - with calcium and Bene-Bac added to it. I've got that on hand if you need some in a pinch.

Talk to you soon and good luck. I'd love to see Joe sometime.

Veronica
Beautiful Dragons

Thanks for the offer of help!!! Depending on how he does in the next couple of days, I might need it. How have you guys done it in the past? Do you have feeding needles or feeding tubes? Or do you just get it in the mouth and hope for the best?

I've done oral medications on Arthur, but have NOT tubed anything of any species before.

He was already much more active since I moved him into the larger tank, though I didn't see him eat anything yet.
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Torey
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
0.1 Anolis Carolinensis (Leeloo)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)

a 1cc or a 5cc syringe (without the needle) and I put a 1/2 inch rubber feeding nipple on it. I get the nipples at Petsmart in the kitten section. They are for small kittens that need to be bottle fed. But they work great for beardies or reptiles. I just cut the end off and and when they bite down they don't chew on plastic or metal. It's worked great for me.

Doug Dix showed me how to force feed a uro. The windpipe is located under their tongue so its very difficult to get liquids down their windpipe. You just place the rubber nibble on top of the tongue and slide it backwards towards the back of the mouth. Then squirt it in slowly and let the uro swallow. If you don't get the nipple back far enough sometimes they will spit the liquid or meds out.

Let me know if you need help. Email me or call my cell. Have a good one and I hope Joe starts eating soon.

Veronica

Thats what I say: Still way too many of the imports die. IMHO freshly imported Uros should only be aquired by very experienced keepers. A big tank ( I would NOT keep any semiadult or adult freshly imported Uro in any tank with less than 3 x 4 ft floorspace) can help a lot. But its only part of the job.
Extra high light intensities (I´d recvommend at least 300 W in metal halides) and moastly dry food which is high in dietary fibers is as important as a creful fecal check and apt treatment.
To my knowledge still much more than 50% of imported Uros die within their first year.
Any unexperienced or semiexperienced keeper should invest the money for an adult cb Uro of for a LTC (at least 9 months). That can safe a lot of trouble.

Thats my 2 cts

Ingo

Thanks, Ingo. For what it's worth, any future uro purchases (FAR in the future) by me will certainly be CB. No more WC for me!
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Torey
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
0.1 Anolis Carolinensis (Leeloo)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)