Reptile & Amphibian Forums

We aquired our first bearded dragon on Saturday, he's about 4 months old (6 inches long).

The breeder warned against using chlorinated water. Said
he wasn't sure it was bad but used filtered water as a precaution. So my question is--is anyone here using tap water successfully? I'm using some spring water we have until I hear otherwise but obviously if this isn't necessary, it would be less complicated.

Caveman has eaten a little since we got him, not a great deal though. The first night we had him he ate a couple of crickets. Then the next morning (sunday) he ate one cricket and I put 2-3 other small crickets in with him before we had to leave town for the day. When we returned, the crickets were still in there so I removed them before shutting the lights off for the night. Monday, I became worried about him (mainly I didn't know what to expect and he seemed kind of lethargic) wasn't sure if he was too hot or too cool. I had a 60 watt bulb in a reflector over his basking area (a piece a driftwood with a higher "platform" he seemed to be spending most of the day under the light. I wasn't trusting the thermometers I was using and switched to a 40 watt bulb. I called the breeder and he somewhat reassured me, said they didn't move around alot. Guided me through spritzing him with the water (I had been too timid-not spraying him till he started lapping it up). The breeder told me to work with the 40 watt bulb and if his appetite didn't pick up in a couple of days, go back to the 60 watt bulb.
He's been eating a couple of crickets a day, which didn't seem to be very much, so I put the 60 watt bulb back today.
He seems a little more active, but doesn't seem to notice the crickets I put in, so in desperation I dug out a small molted mealworm and he took it out of my fingers, so I've given him 4-5 since then, only when I can find smaller, freshly molted ones(I've dusted some of them in calcium/vitamin powder). I know mealworms aren't highly recommeded, but I was relieved to see him eat anything.
Any ideas why he is not interested in the crickets? He eagerly went after the first two I gave him. He's gone to the bathroom once each morning so he seems to be functioning in that respect. Thanks for any info!

Lisa
mom of:
several adult and baby box turtles
1 five lined skink
2 dekay snakes
3 toads
2 mantids
1 cat
3 dogs
2 rabbits
1 cockatiel
2 juvi humans

Buy a decent digital thermometer (about $5 at Walmart) and trust it. Air temp in a smaller cage (10-20 gal.) should be about 90-95°F. You'll probably need a higher wattage bulb to get at that temp.. then he/she should begin eating normally. Keep in mind that the crickets should be no longer than the distance between the beardies eyes.

With larger tanks (40 gal.), you can make the basking end of the tank hotter (105-110°).

As far as the tap water, if you can drink it they can too (chloirnated water isn't harmful).

The basking area or hot end of the tank should have an air temp of about 90°F.. the other end should be a bit cooler.

Do you have a UV light or just a regular bulb?.. they need UV if not.

You should read through this forum and any care sheets online.. . check the care sheet at www.dachiu.com

the average city water today contains over 500 chemicals that do not belong in it. Part of this is due to the fact that most delivery systems in the U.S. include cement, asbestos pipes, cast iron, PVC (porous to certain solvents, herbicides and pesticides) and that lead, cadmium and other toxic metals leach out of valves and couplings of pipes between a water treatment plant and a faucet in the home.
(http://www.naturalrearing.com/J_In_Learning/Diet/Water/Chlorine1.htm)

The essential lighting is a "UVB" light.
re: reptisun 5.0 flourescent,tube type or a Mercury Vapor Bulb (MVB) which is an all in one, heat and UVB.
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TheClassyLizard

So use a BRITA filter and enjoy your tap water.

If you leave tap water sit for 24 hrs., the chlorine dissipates.
Is your beardie eating greens at all? If so, he will get most of his water from them. If not, another thing to do instead of spraying him, is to use an eyedropper to drip water on his nose. This is a good habit to get into incase he should ever need meds.
Dragons do not absorb water through their skin, so by misting they will eventually get enough water (and a wet dragon), but I think the eyedropper is more efficient for getting a drink.

You might try putting your crickets (dusted with calcium w/D3)in a slick sided bowl or ashtray. Very few get out, if any, and your dragon won't have to chase them around. Once he starts eating well, he will enjoy the chase, but for now this may work.

If his appetite doesn't pick up, you may want to try some Parazap (www.parazap.com). It is made to rid animals of parasites, but also has a appetite stimulant in it.

Giving him a drink with pedialyte or strawberry/kiwi Gatorade may give him a boost too.
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TheClassyLizard

Air temp and surface temp are two different things. It is definitely important that you use a digital thermometer.
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Rob