Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I've gleaned much information from this forum (and other sources) about how to set up a "nursery" for hatchlings, but I'm now seeking direct advice, asking if I might have missed anything to get these guys eating.

Details:
-- four three-toed hatchlings born Oct. 1st.;
-- 20 gallon tank, heated with under-tank, pad heaters (75-78 degrees F. at night and 80-83 during the day;
-- soaked daily for 30 minutes;
-- moistened moss, humidity usually between 60 and 70 percent;
-- UVB light on each day for 12 hours.
-- offered very small sized live foods nearly every day (earthworms, bloodworms, sowbugs) and strawberries offered several times;

I know at least one is hungry. A couple of days ago, he chased a sibling around the soaking container and grabbed a back leg. Pullling them apart took an eternity. They'd been all together except for separate feedings in a plastic bin after soaking. Now, they live in separate bins within the aquarium.

Is there anything else I can do? Should I be worried?

I've seen "assist" feeding mentioned on the forums. Is that an option? If so, how is it done?

Thanks for reading this,

Angie (Betty & Barney's keeper)

Great set up!
I have a couple of "finicky" hatchlings too, that took what seemed to be a long time to start eating. I also have them housed together, and occasionally one will try to chomp another's foot. This usually happens after soaking.
Babies can be very shy about eating, and might not eat if they don't feel safe. I got a couple that won't eat if another hatchling is in their field of vision, or if they can see me. I try not to make sudden moves when I'm watching them eat. They get put in seperate corners to eat, and I try to have enough creepy-crawlies on hand to give seconds to anyone who eats quickly and then tries to steal from the others.
Sometimes I'll offer a worm to one, who'll walk away from it, then it'll become interested again when I give the worm to another who IS hungry. Suddenly worm is very popular.
Mine don't necessarily eat every day, either.
Take the biting as a good sign, in that the biter is responding to movement, etc., and maybe try to have food on hand to offer instead of turtle toes.
None of mine will eat fruit yet, by the way.
Regards
Stephanie

yes, your set up seems substancial, a glass tank is fine for now but Im not sure if I reccomend the heat pads underneath, mainly because those heat pads are designed to supply heat to the WHOLE tank, and as a result, the floor becomes very hot (and there's no way to adjust ther temperature on those things) and you may need extra substrate, which is still not a safe idea because hatchlings loooove to dig. But heat pads are fine for animals who do not spend any time on the floor such as chameleons.

Anyhoo, try feeding your turtles in water. My hatchling, Cole, is about the same age, and started eating within hours of being shipped, and as he was soaking in warm water under lights (to bring his temperature up) I dropped a worm in there with him, and he ate it right up after a little while. And after that, I've always fed him in water. However now, that he's SLIGHTLY older, he can run around and chase his food all over. He loves to do that. And actually, hes eating apples & butternut squash now, too.

We don't feed him in his enclosure because I have a thing about my pets living with their dinner's guts, so I feed him over a towell in a warm part of the house. It doesn't matter to him where he is, or who's watching. I guess we've been pretty lucky.

May I ask who you got your turtles from?

Good news since my original message! Three of the four have eaten some earthworms and slugs. One is a hold out, so I may try feeding him in water.

You offered some good points to consider, thank you. Would you recommend an overhead basking light, instead of the pads?

The hatchlings were born in an outdoor habitat. It's a 10' by 40' side yard, where the parents are now hibernating.

Thanks again for your advice.

Angie (Betty and Barney's keeper)

Awesome, I'm glad they're eating! (isn't it a relief?) 3 toed hatchlings are sooo precious. My older Eastern Box, Rowley stopped eating for a while when she made the adjustment to come indoors for the winter. She held out on us for almost a month! One day, my boyfriend's dad picked up one of her neglected apple bits from the bottom of her enclosure, and put it in front of her, and she started eating again! (and hasn't stopped since lol)

Yes, I think that getting a lamp for overhead is a better choice for the hatchlings. (also, 8 bucks gets you a thermometer/humidity guage strip sticker for the side of the tank) Since like I said, those pads get very hot in order to heat the whole enclosure and the bottom of the tank is SURE to be nearly scortching. And my 3 toed hatchling, Cole, loves to dig. thats all it ever does, so i'd be just a tad concerned. You can get a 100 watt day bulb for under 9 or 10 bucks, or if you want to splurge, you can get the combo that has the UVB fixture, and a spot for both a day light and a night light. Both of my boxies have a day light and a night light EACH (all run like clockwork on timers)because now that the baby's arrived, it lives in a closed off section of the enclosure, with completely different substrate, and much softer things, as their bodies are much more sensitive at this age... the night light sort of casts a dark, moonlike glow over the enclosure and keeps the heat up. no real light involved. The day light just keeps things warm, and adds a little extra light. I believe it is also a full spectrum, but don't quote me on that.

but of course, you won't need 2 day bulbs, 2 night bulbs, and 2 UVBs because you only have one enclosure. You should feel greatful that the adults like to hibernate hehe! Good luck with the babies!
heres a link of rowleys wintertime setup BEFORE Cole arrived.