Reptile & Amphibian Forums

You can read my other post for the description at the link on the bottome. But here is my design, and it works this time...

Description

nm

You do not need the frame if you are using 3/4 inch stock.It is plenty strong and can hold several hundred pounds.

>>nm
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Thomas Jones
aligatorhunter@earthlink.net

No one is to be trusted

>>You do not need the frame if you are using 3/4 inch stock.It is plenty strong and can hold several hundred pounds.

Bad idea for two reasons:

1) With a 72" span, even 3/4" plywood will start to sag in the middle without some internal bracing.

2) Given the size of the cage, it will be extremely heavy. I'd suggest keeping the frame and perhaps going with 1/2in plywood. Or maybe even 3/8in if you can find it. If the frame is well-constructed, it will be supporting the load of the cage; the plywood/melamine will just be there to keep your herp inside. As such, there's no reason to go with super-thick sheets.

>>You can read my other post for the description at the link on the bottome. But here is my design, and it works this time...

Sweet pics! What'd you use?

Comments on the design:

* As I mentioned in my other post, I would keep the 2x2 frame but consider going with slightly thinner sheet goods to cover it. I would definitely pick plywood over melamine for this size cage!

* One big challenge will be figuring out how to build the frame and make it solid. Have you though about how you're going to attach the frame pieces? Screws and glue might work, but you may want to look for metal braces or some other means of strengthening the joints. If the frame isn't rock solid, the cage won't be solid.

* The one problem with the design as it currently stands is that the frame will be completely exposed inside the cage. I think this doesn't look particularly good and it can make cleaning more difficult. You might consider putting the floor of the cage inside the frame. You'll have to cut notches for the frame pieces, then set the floor on top of the frame rails. This should give you a floor that is totally flat, without any rails to impede cleaning.

* You might want to build a face frame for the front of the cage. Sort of similar to the white cage in diagram C. This will hide the edge of the floor if you place it inside the frame and will tidy up the appearance a bit (e.g. any lights or other fixtures mounted on the top of the cage won't jump out at you). Any cabinet-making book should tell you how to build face frames. Like like the books written by Danny Proulx. I've attached a link to his website, but you can find his books cheaper at Amazon.com or a woodworking store (e.g. Rockler).

* How are you going to enclose the front of the cage? Doors? Sliding glass or acrylic panels?

Looks like a great design! Can't wait to see the finished cages...
Danny Proulx's website

I didnt want to start designing the doors untill i had athe design verified thatnks

The size of the cage ie good. I would do without the framing.
Use 2 x 4's to make your sliding glass track you will eliminate the sagging as well. I believe i e- mailed you my designs. They are the same cages i have now they are in a stack of 4 and NO SAGGING
>>You can read my other post for the description at the link on the bottome. But here is my design, and it works this time...
>>
>>Description
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Thomas Jones
aligatorhunter@earthlink.net

No one is to be trusted

Hope this helps you any.

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Thomas Jones
aligatorhunter@earthlink.net

No one is to be trusted

>>Hope this helps you some.

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Thomas Jones
aligatorhunter@earthlink.net

No one is to be trusted

I am currently working on a similar design, but on a larger scale (8'x3'x3.5'). I used 2x2's for a frame/skeleton and eclosed the interior in melemime coated wall board (used in bathrooms). I wanted to eliminate all of the extra corners that the 2x2s created because snakes always seem to make the biggest messes in the corners and that's the hardest places to clean. The wallboard over the 2x2 frame created an air cavity that I believe will serve as insulation (it could be filled with insulating material if it was to be kept outside or where heat was at a minimum). To finish out the inside corners, I used 1/4 round plastic molding and lots of caulk. The wallboard is still an experiment so I can't vouch for it yet, but I'd swear by the elimination of corners. Good luck,
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Zoodude

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