Reptile & Amphibian Forums

I am Currently looking at getting a Borneo and i was wondering a few things. Number one: I've been told this is not really a "beginner's" snake, although i am not a beginner, i have not had a boid before. I was wondering what makes it not a beginner's snake.

Also what size terraium would a fully grown borneo need? and what does a fully grown borneo need to feed on? I assume most of these, if CB are pretty well tempered(?).

And other additional information would be great, i like the animal i just would like to know if i can take care of it. I know to read the care sheets and what not, it just never goes into detail why it's not a beginner snake.

Thanx.

Hey,
I think that most keepers that own or have owned irascible or surly tempered Bloods of either Malaysian or more commonly Northern Sumatran origin, might be prone to give the kind of anecdotal tale of an animal that was and still is irascible or of one that is now calm and demure and easy to deal with.

In my experience with bloods and short-tails, their personalities can vary, with bloods showing or exhibiting aggression more readily as babies or juveniles, but eventually out growing that kind of disposition with some time patients and lots of conscious handling.

Borneo's on the other hand, can be quite placid and easy tempered allowing for an easy introduction to the Blood and short-tail experience. Their short and stocky builds make them rather ideal if you are looking to get an animal that is both brawny and muscular with a manageable and impressive edge to it, but one that can make for a wonderful experience for the keeper. They are one of my all time favorites and I can't recommend them enough. Their requirements are not that difficult to understand if you have some knowledge of their needs.

Experience as with any thing you aspire to do is key, but that comes with some time and patience. Read as much as possible about what it is you will need to make for a good experience and keeping your charge healthy and you can't go wrong. Do some reading and ask as much about what it is specifically you wish to know and accomplish and you will do fine. Talk to experienced breeders and keepers and read the archives and past and present post on the subject.

However, skimp on the requisite acroutrements such as proper housing and heating and you will in no time short, pay the ultimate price with a sick animal.

Angel
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In the theater of my life, this pickle has no goal!!

Is it a good beginner (to boas and pythons) snake then?

and i do understand that i need a proper setup, and if i do get a snake, i promise i will get the best setup i can. i fully understand that these snakes need certain thing, and that's not my issue.

just, why is it not a beginner snake?

I think the main reason most people don't advise this snake to a beginner is because they can be somewhat harder to "read" then other snakes. When you've had a lot of experience with different snakes, you get a feel for how the snake is acting and what it's going to do next. In my own opinion, bloods and borneos are a little more unpredictable. I have one adult male borneo, who is one of the tamest snakes I've ever had. But on occasion he can go from very placid to latching onto my hand/arm with almost no warning.
Another reason might be that babies seem like they take a bit longer of a time to adjust to human interation. While most boas, balls and kings etc. seem to adjust to being handled fairly quickly. Bloods and other short tails seem to take a months or more sometimes to calm down, even with captive bred babies.
It's all individual though, and I must say they are some of my favorite snakes to work with.

Hey,
To reiterate what was already stated, the reason that most keepers are so quick to suggest that these snakes are not for beginners is their ability to be irascible as babies and juvies. As they mature, they can be quite placid and tractable snakes (Borneo's); allowing for a pleasant experience for the keeper. Most negative commentary : "Not for beginners", stems from bad experiences with wild caught and even nasty juvenile Malaysian bloods. Husbandry is a big issue with these guys if not carefuly monitored. But that aside, if you work with a cb, specimen, the likelihood that it will be a nasty snake dimishes many-fold; so IMO, it is best to buy one from reputable breeder and one with traceable assistance from the breeder should you run into trouble with it.
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In the theater of my life, this pickle has no goal!!

Well thank you guys for you help, it's nice to hear answers from people with some experience.

I have a few more question though.. What size Terraium would a fully grown Borneo need, and are they hard are to feed? (i've guessed they're rather expensive to feed, but do they take to feeding well?)

Hey,
For an adult male or female a cage size of about 45-48" long, by 14" high, and about 18" deep, is a good size for any adult male or female short-tail or Blood (Rubber maid tups make a good starter cage). They take to feeding quite well, but that also depends on the feeding habits established by the breeder. If the breeder got the snake started on live food, then it is always a little work to switch him or her over to F/T food. If on the other hand the animal was weaned off of live food and on to F/T, then you should have no problems, provided the animal has been also, given a couple of days to acclimate to its new surroudings or home. Some will take any where from a day or two before eating whilst others, will take as long as a couple of weeks and even longer to get started; it all depends on the factors given: breeder/ feeding habits and conditioning, and or living conditions prior to your receiving it. Does the snake feel safe or defensive in its strange and unfamiliar surroundings. Those are things to consider. Have the appropriate set up prior to obtaining the Borneo. As with any herp establishing a secure home and set up will make the whole experience easier for the both of you.
Hope that helps!! - Angel
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In the theater of my life, this pickle has no goal!!

They aren't really that expensive to feed. I think people tend to over feed all snakes in captivity. The majority of snakes don't need to be fed every week, I only feed adults every second or third week. You have to remember snakes in cages don't use anywhere near the amount of energy they would in the wild.

Well, thank you all very much, you've fully answered my question, and i have a pretty good idea about things. I can't thank you all enough. so, thanks!!