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question about seemingly non-sensical Uro husbandry...

robyn@ProExotics Nov 20, 2003 03:48 PM

i have seen many folks mention blow drying an animal after getting it wet, to prevent "rot".

where exactly would the animals access blow dryers in nature?

in the wild, they split a lot of time between basking and burrowing. it is moist in the burrows, and yet they don't just naturally rot away.

wouldn't you think that "rotting" is more symptomatic of a larger problem or shortcoming of the cage, setup, and keeper?

i am trying to engage someone in thought and discussion here : )

Uros don't live on birdseed or playsand either, but that is a different discussion : )
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Replies (17)

el_toro Nov 20, 2003 04:06 PM

Well, my theory is that they don't spend a lot of time soaking in a bathtub, either, so they wouldn't have *excess* moisture to deal with in the wild. They have higher humidity in a burrow which is good for them, but they are also not actually wet, so would be unlikely to develop tail rot. I figure the soak/blowdry is a reasonable accomodation since I can't get a good enough microclimate in the tank to have such varied humidities with enough control to be able to avoid respiratory infections.

Any other thoughts?
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Torey
1.1 Uromastyx Geyri (Joe and Arthur)
0.1 Anolis Carolinensis (Leeloo)
1.0 Betta Splendens (Mr. Miagi)
1.1 Felis Domesticus (Roscolux and Jenny)

jts1 Nov 20, 2003 04:24 PM

I'll take the bait

I always hear "in nature this or that happens" ... Although we as keepers can learn much about husbandry by studying an animals native habitats and wild behavior we cannot deny the fact that they ARE no longer in nature. I can give many many examples of how animal behavior (sometimes for the better sometimes not) changes drastically in captivity. As hard as one may try we cannot duplicate nature .... We can however simulate certain conditions that an animal needs to survive and reproduce.

I would also have to assume that most uros do not find themselves submersed into a water bath in nature so thats probably why blow dryers are so rarely found in uro burrows in the wild.

Having bathed many uros and having never used a blow dryer on one I would also have to agree somewhat that tail rot is indeed more or less of a husbandry problem then just caused from not drying a tail completely. I certainly don't see the harm in using one however and recommending the total drying of the tail after bathing could also be seen as good prophylactic advise .... especially to those new to keeping uros and grappling with their somewhat unique husbandry successfully.

Joe

ingo Nov 21, 2003 01:33 AM

I think, too many keepers do not keep Uros in apt enclosures-no possibility to dig tunnels, no moist places, no massive rock piles etc. In too dry enclosures, soaking may be necessary for complete shedding, but any soaking gives an unnatural excess of liquid, any blowdrying is a risk of overheating and still may leave humidity under the tail scales.
I do not know, why nobody seems to keep Uros the way I do, but I am very happy with my solution:
I have several PVC Tubings extending 1-3ft from my Uro tank and ending in easily controllable hide boxes. One of these boxes is filled with dry sand, two are filled with very moderately moist sand and one is fileld with a bark/Mulch mixture, which is kept relatively moist. Uros change between hidings and obviously from time to time, especially in pre shed, prefer more humid sleeping places. Also the tubing system gives them a replacement for the tunnels which they can hardly dig in any enclosure. I never experience shedding problems, tail rot or the like and the scales of my Uros are bright and shiny.
I think its an easy solution which relatively closely mimics nature.

Ci@o

Ingo

Sunfox Nov 21, 2003 10:26 AM

Consider that the temps in the desert are hottest in the afternoon, would a good, stiff breeze feel like a blow dryer? I've been to Los Angeles, California when a heat wave hit. The temps reached 115 degrees Farenheit at 11:00 am. When the wind blew, it felt like I was standing in front of a massive blow dryer. Perhaps the blow dryer is the closest thing to a desert breeze that captive uros will ever get?

Just a thought
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1 Mali Uromastyx named Ra

robyn@ProExotics Nov 21, 2003 04:16 PM

it really is an effort to engage in some productive discussion : )

so to address the responses given...

certainly we must theorize under captive conditions. but saying that there are no bathtubs in the wild, therefore having blow dryers makes sense, actually, makes no sense. there is plenty of water, humidity, and moisture in the wild, and still no artificial drying machines, and still the animals do very well.

failure to provide a microclimate, or failure to provide a cage that allows for the animal to have choices, providing all the tools necessary for a healthy and productive life (and allowing for such a simple failure as "tail rot", is the failure of the keeper, and of the hobby.

when we first decided to tackle the Uro breeding project, it was because we were reflecting on our success with monitor breeding, and extrapolating that theory and practice out onto another desert lizard. it just seemed like a very simple step. monitor breeding was horrible 15 years ago, and i see the same misunderstandings in Uro husbandry that we saw with monitors way back when.

Uros are Afrikan lizards. they are not super special or super unique, they are easily kept if you just understand their needs, and can provide the proper tools for them to do their natural jobs.

the primary tools are temperatures, nutrition and diet, and a substrate medium that allows for them to achieve life events. simple life events like feeding, hiding, sleeping, and temperature regulation, and more complicated life events like breeding, nesting, and egg laying.

looking at the struggles of Uro breeders to have any type of positive success, you see the same problems that the monitor world has.

folks can't get a good "microclimate" in the cages because of poor setup. now, we don't have perfect setups for monitors or Uros by any means, but i think we do well with our approach. the setups allow for a daytime temp gradient of 75-150 degrees, mnay hide spots at a wide range of temps, and a diggable, burrowable, Uro-favored substrate that allows and encourages production of their OWN burrows (which can be to whatever depth, design, and temp that they prefer, as they are the ones to create them).

when you limit Uro activity by restrictive cage design, you are limiting paths to success. seeing a Uro dig endlessly at the corner of the cage, through an inch of bird seed, sand, or other lousy substrate, and your only thought being "oh, how cute!" is a failure of the keeper.

the Uros, like all other reptiles, are able to communicate with us as keepers through behavior. that digging behavior is the animals way to try and communicate to the keeper that hey, "i need something to dig in over here!" duh.

wild, captive, or otherwise, digging and burrowing is an ESSENTIAL part of a Uros programmed genetic code. lack of digging resources is an extreme stress on the animals mental state, and to me, an obvious reason that so many captive Uros do so poorly.

(poor analogy) you can't bring home a puppy, throw him in a caged of pool, and expect the animal to adapt to an aquatic lifestyle, no matter how much you love fish. the dog needs basic (and domestic, fortunately) needs met, and a 100% wet, soggy, swimming dog, is going to be one miserable dog.

reptiles don't thrive because of stresses in their environments. poor caging, poor diet, poor choice in cagemates, etc.

monitor keepers fail to keep thriving animals, or have successful breeding groups, because they ignorantly (lack of knowledge) fail to provide the proper setting. they are ignorant to social interaction with their groups (and the fact that it is 1000 times easier to start with a group of babies, as opposed to a group of unfamiliar adults). they are ignorant to the temperature requirements of their animals (fail to provide a wide enough, usable temp range).

and so amazingly significantly, they are ignorant in their choices of substrates! a lizard substrate does SO MANY important things!

monitor breeders fail to get good breeding because of poor substrate choices. they fail to get good eggs because of poor substrate choices.

the lizards must recognize the substrate as usable for many different uses. digging and burrowing are important. for breeding, nesting is monumental. a monitor will not drop good eggs into a bad substrate if it is at all avoidable. most often they hold good eggs internally, until they can't hold them anymore (at which point they are now bad eggs) and then they give up and drop all that effort, time, and resources out like last week's trash. if an ignorant keeper can get 2 eggs out of 20 laid to be good, they feel successful (?) and oftentimes don't stop to reflect and analyze as to why the other eggs in the clutch, or the whole clutch, is no good.

a lizard may not breed at all if it simply doesn't recognize its environment as conducive to successful reproduction. breeding and laying are cycles that are enormously draining on a female, and only ideal conditions can keep her in the best of health throughout this process.

you may try like hell to breed your Uros, but they will fight you all the way if you are not providing them the tools they need. and they win that fight : )

the failure of monitor breeders SOOOOO mirrors the failure of Uro breeders! good lizard knowledge is GOOD LIZARD KNOWLEDGE, and you can intelligently apply the good knowledge to a wide range of species because it is not species specific so much as based on lizard theory, and it is applicable to Blackthroat monitors (Afrikan), Peachthroat monitors (Indo), Ackie monitors (Australian), Water monitors (Sumatran), Collared Lizards (America), Gilas (America), and even Uros (whoa, back to Afrika). take it even further, and it is applicable to snakes (that's a whole 'nother forum : )

the substrate/soil problem is no easy one to solve. i can't tell folks what brand of soil to buy. i wish it was that easy : ) all i can tell them is to try different types, many soils and dirts DON'T WORK, you have to find for yourself one that does. it has to dig well, burrow well, hold moisture well, and the animals have to recognize it as usable, and actually put it to use : )

so, what to do....

keep a few basic things in mind-

our lizard cages range from 3 ft for smaller species to 10 feet wide for larger species, but have 2 ft of soil, a wide temperature range, wood stacks that provide hiding and basking at many different temp ranges, limited ventilation (which prevents excessive evaporation, an enemy, not a friend), and no screen tops (or with screening blocked off, evaporation=beef jerky machines!).

(soil allows for breakdown of fecal material. we change out soil, maybe once a year, and not even 100%. birdseed, millet, plain sand, those do not allow for a breakdown, and in the case of substrates like birdseed, they can foster bad bacterial growth, and worse yet, encourage the animal to actually re-ingest fecal material that is mixed in with the seed. that is just a tangent type note/thought that did not make it into the above ramblings : )

for those who can accept a challenge, and for those who would be interested in improving the health and "happiness" of their Uro, try a single setup with a good soil, and great temps. you might not nail it on the first incarnation. but you can tweak it and change it easily to get close to where you want to be.

if you can't find a good diggable soil in your backyard or local forest or streambed, try our Home Depot mix of Topsoil (no additives), play sand, and vermeculite, in a 50/25/25 mix. we have used that store bought mix very successfully in the past.

i can "guarantee" this- once you setup a lizard to allow for it to burrow, thermoregulate, and generally thrive, you will never look back, and never return to a substandard setup. seeing an animal thoroughly use and enjoy a good setup is so rewarding, it really makes it all worthwhile.

and hopefully, in the future, dozens and dozens of Uro keepers will get the picture and we will start to see breeding success, and the wide availability of high quality, healthy, captive bred Uro babies of all types.

in the meantime, i am just hoping that more than 1 or 2 people take the time to read all of this : )

sorry if it meanders, and let me know if we can pursue this further, i just hammered this all out off the top of my head : )

thanks!
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

azteclizard Nov 22, 2003 07:58 PM

Robyn,
You have sold me on the idea. I have 3 young malis that I'm raising up. I'm going to try out your home depot mix and let you know how it goes. It would be nicer if I could get a hold of some of the stuff you use(hint, hint), but this will have to do. Thank you for the great post.
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Bill DiFabio
Azteclizard.com
Email Me

ingo Nov 26, 2003 01:08 AM

Hi,

I have tried several burrowable substrates and those times ended up with a 2/1 clay/sand mixture. This has to be moderatel ymopist when filled into the cage. Then it hardens and holds tunnels well. Anyhow, testing such things I came to the conclusion that for digging natural tunnels, the substrate has to be at least 2 ft deep and the animals should be able to dig >4 ft tunnels. Otherwiese they won´t stop digging. I have my a. nigriventris in an enclosure of >30 square feet-and I was not able to provide a perfect diggable ground in that large cage. Checking habitats of THIS subspecies, I found out that there are populations living in rocky areas where they do hardly dig their own tunnels but minlay hide in deep crevices (the same holds true for some other Uro species). So I finally ended up with stabilized rock piles, limited burrowing possibiliites in the cage and the mentioned tubing/hide boxes system, which works very well for me. Naturally digged tunnels are not only not easy to establish, but also impossible to control. You need a certain humidity level in there, but this has to be established artificially and hence needs some checking. With the Tubings/Hide boxes this is very easy to perform. BTW, I forgot to mention that I originally completely filled the tubings and boxes with sand. So the Uros initially HAD to dig their way through the system-which they did with great energy, leaving high sand pile sin the cage. Now they have their own individual hides and do not dig at all-with the exception of the famele during a few days before and after egg laying.
Hence to me the tubing/Boxes system is a very recommendable compromise.

Ci@o

Ingo

npohworks Nov 21, 2003 04:52 PM

I totally understand where you are coming from. I agree that in most aspects it is probably best to imitate an animal's life in the wild as much as possible in captivity. However, unlike in the wild where these guys can die very young, we have the opportunity to improve on what they have in nature. Sure, they live on a sandy dirt type substrate in the wild, but if we can find a substrate that would almost never cause impactions, should we not use it?
I am totally with you on the blow-dryer thing. I think my uros would [bleep] a brick if I tried to use one on them. They all love their soaks and the gentle towel dry I give them after to help with the shed. I pay special attention to my big male, since he has shedding problems.
By the way, don't think I was trying to attack your husbandry at all. I love ProExotics and the way that you guys have changed the expectations of what a pet store does. You said you were looking to bring out some thought-provoking discussion, well there ya go.
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1.3 Uromastyx Maliensis (Ricky, Quinn, Anna, Drusilla)
0.2 Varanus Timorensis (Zealot, Willow)
1.1 Varanus Acanthurus (Eddie, Roxie)
0.0.1 Uromastyx Aegypticus (Kronk)
0.0.2 Ceratophrys Ornata (Mojo, Jabba)
0.1 Geochelone Carbonaria (Turtle)
1.0 Rhacodactylus Ciliatus (Smeagol)

Emily
www.egomantra.com/npoh

robyn@ProExotics Nov 21, 2003 05:12 PM

as one monitor breeder said (paraphrased)- "given the proper access to temperatures, monitors could eat and pass doorknobs."

that is just about true. i have never had an impacted monitor or Uro. that is more reflective of other shortcomings in the setup and husbandry AGAIN (typically temps and moisture). i have heard of geckos getting impacted from play sand, and play sand sucks, so i understand that : )

if you set up with soil, and all other needs are also met (it is a total puzzle, it does not work with just a piece or two : ) you would not have impaction concerns at all.

as for "attacks" i don't see it that way at all. it is all about the animals, so i don't take business and breeding personal. of course, there are boneheads that just like to attack, and that is different : )

when we look at or criticize husbandry, ignorance, or techniques and results, that is not an attack on an individual keeper, but rather a challenge of the technique : )

thanks for the comments, and the support, we are busting our butts over here
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

Magnum Nov 21, 2003 07:06 PM

Your substrate preference, the one that would be readily available to anyone. And tell about that crazy substate where the uro's can dig and bore though.... it a silty sand? or sandysilt? does it contain traces of clay? it is not primarily clay i can see that in the pics, but could it be a clayey silt, i'm sure it's not a silty clay, how coarse is it , is it very fine?...it doesn't look fine. and what is the moisture level? I ask all this as I am a geotechnical technologist for a consulting engineering firm and i have access to various solis, so if it is well idenified to me, i can (hopefully) create the same amazing substrate. I have also found that sand is quite dusty especialy the fine playsand....how coarse can sand be for them...a small gravely sand...gavel with small cobles...a cobley gravel....starit cobbles and rock? well graded, gap graded, uniformily graded?

Nywayz, sorry for the long post. Any help would be appreciated.
~Chris~

robyn@ProExotics Nov 22, 2003 03:02 PM

the choice of dirt is one of the hardest things to communicate by typing or by phone : )

you want a soil that digs well, burrows well, holds moisture well, and that the animals use and recognize as appropriate.

that means.... you get your hands dirty, try different things, learn what works, and what doesn't. we tried straight topsoil, it was terrible. didn't do anything well. we fooled around with it, added some sand, added some vermeculite, and found that a 50/25/25 mix works pretty well.

take a 5 gallon bucket, a few 10 gallon tanks, whatever, and "set up a cage". get some soil, lay it in there, dig in it, burrow in it, see what happens.

this picture here is one of our Gila setups, using the same soil that we use for all the lizards, and some snakes. Jimmy here has already knocked off 12 inches of the roof of this burrow, and still he is buried up to his shoulder. this was the burrow of a big male, but a completely common thing around here. i took the pic to illustrate what is possible, even in a 4 ft cage. the animals dig and dig and dig, even though the "experts" say it won't happen, can't happen, and wouldn't happen : )

as for our specific soil, i just about hate naming it, because folks then get focused on finding "it", and that is SOOOO not the point : )

we use a Decomposed Granite that we get from a local wholesale landscape supply company, it comes from a mine in Utah. here is the catch, it is a completely generic thing, and worse yet, comes in MANY different grades. we tried a couple of them, and ONLY the finest grade works for this application. the other DG grades don't work at all (most are way too rocky). but folks get stuck on "DG, DG, DG!" and get confused when the one DG source they find in their area is terrible, and then they think i am a dummy.... : )

complicating it more, i think the DG that we use is only about 80% of what i would really like. i would like it to be smoother, and with rounder, less jagged grains. but it is what is available to us, in the quantities we need, and so it is what we use.

Frank Retes at the Goanna Ranch in AZ digs his soil up locally. it is similar to ours, but also finer, with less rocks. REALLY nice stuff for lizard caging, i wish i had it. he digs it up in the desert, for free.

there is a Seattle reptile breeder that digs up streambed soil (streambeds can be a great source) in eastern Washington (or so he says, it is apparently a bit of a secret : ), and it is the heaviest, thickest, yet easiest to dig soil i have ever seen. really, really nice stuff! i certainly wish i had that stuff : )

when i stick my finger in our soil, all the way down, it leaves a perfect impression when i pull it out. one long tube. nice compression, it is easy to stick my finger in, yet it digs and holds burrows great. that is what i am striving for.

the specific soil doesn't matter. it's usefullness is what is important. and i am NOT a geologist, so i can't give you specific scientific answers to what traits to look for. like i said, it is hard to explain to someone. but it is really easy to "show" in person.

the best thing to do is to make up a batch of the "Home Depot" mix, topsoil/sand/vermeculite, 50/25/25%, and mess with the water content, and over a week or two, dig in it! it has the nice properties you are looking for. at the very least, you can get an idea of the direction to go in, and then try to find a natural free source of that type of soil : )

thanks again to all for the exchange : )
Image
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

npohworks Nov 21, 2003 08:36 PM

I don't know if you read the post I made on these boards a while ago, but I have started this big project. I made this software that I was hoping could maybe be set up at reptile shows and stuff at like an information kiosk. It has a "reptile personality" quiz, where people can input what sort of facilities and capabilities they have, and based on that information it points them to the most appropriate outlet (I have geckos, bearded dragons, uromastyx, dwarf monitors, and regular monitors on there right now). This was started as a school project, and I have the school project version done but I want to add a lot more pictures and information. I've also got detailed care sheets on there for several specific species. I ended up using the care sheets from your site for ackies and waters, and a couple of your pictures too (I gave you credit, I swear). Right now it's still just a school project, but I was hoping to get it set up at shows eventually so that less people will go home with $10 wild caught nile monitors which either die or get turned loose in the everglades (have you heard about that problem we're having down here in florida?).

Oh yeah, but the dirt thing. I don't use playsand, it's terrible. I think the reason that dirt is not the best choice of substrate for some owners is the amount of dirt and dust it generates indoors. In a breeding atmosphere, like at ProExotics, it's ideal. However bird seed or some other substrates provide a much better alternative for those of us that can't afford to lose the security deposits on our apartments lol.
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1.3 Uromastyx Maliensis (Ricky, Quinn, Anna, Drusilla)
0.2 Varanus Timorensis (Zealot, Willow)
1.1 Varanus Acanthurus (Eddie, Roxie)
0.0.1 Uromastyx Aegypticus (Kronk)
0.0.2 Ceratophrys Ornata (Mojo, Jabba)
0.1 Geochelone Carbonaria (Turtle)
1.0 Rhacodactylus Ciliatus (Smeagol)

Emily
www.egomantra.com/npoh

robyn@ProExotics Nov 22, 2003 02:37 PM

are you sure it is dusty? we don't have any dust problems at all...

i have seen some goofy keepers completely miss the point, and use whatever dirt they have sitting around, leave it completely dry, and certainly have dust, but they are doing it boneheadedly anyway, so wrong is wrong. a good dirt, in a good setup, should not be a dust problem. if it is, you are using the wrong dirt, the wrong water content, or both : )

as for bird seed being a "much better alternative" i think you are also missing part of the point : )

birdseed is a lousy substrate regardless! it doesn't serve any healthy, useful purpose, except to make your life (the keeper) easier. easier still would be cast the Uros in bronze so that they just sit there like statues, and don't need food, heat, or any substrate. or maybe put them in the freezer...

just because something is "easier" for the keeper doesn't make it a good choice for the animal. most of us bypassed the "easy" choice by choosing to be responsible for the life and health of a live captive reptile. might as well do the best possible job for the animal, and not default into what is now "easiest" : )

i am challenging the state of Uro husbandry, because it seems to be off track and misguided. if folks wanted an animal to keep in a glass fish tank, perhaps they should have chosen fish. by choosing a burrowing, digging desert lizard, you are truly asking for the challenges that come along with it : )

thanks so much for the discussion! : )

(you can make the soil setup work for you, you just have to try!)
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

npohworks Nov 23, 2003 10:33 AM

Oh man, the image of a bronzed uro in a cage just made me fall out of my chair LOL.

I have tried some different dirt types on my monitors, but I have never seen the stuff that you guys use, it seems to work so well for burrows.

BTW, you didn't say if you minded me using the ProExotics stuff in my project?
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1.3 Uromastyx Maliensis (Ricky, Quinn, Anna, Drusilla)
0.2 Varanus Timorensis (Zealot, Willow)
1.1 Varanus Acanthurus (Eddie, Roxie)
0.0.1 Uromastyx Aegypticus (Kronk)
0.0.2 Ceratophrys Ornata (Mojo, Jabba)
0.1 Geochelone Carbonaria (Turtle)
1.0 Rhacodactylus Ciliatus (Smeagol)

Emily
www.egomantra.com/npoh

robyn@proexotics Nov 23, 2003 02:39 PM

you are welcome to use whatever you need from our site. please check with me for any clarification if needed though, folks have misquoted and misunderstood me, and then misrepresented me in the past, so feel free to let me know if you have questions : )
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

robyn@ProExotics Nov 22, 2003 03:08 PM

some folks thought i was a girl. nope : )
Image
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robyn@proexotics.com

Pro Exotics Reptiles

npohworks Nov 24, 2003 05:45 AM

it's only cause you spell your name with a y. you are the only robin who is a male that i know who spells his name robyn. maybe it's because batman's robin spells it with an i.
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1.3 Uromastyx Maliensis (Ricky, Quinn, Anna, Drusilla)
0.2 Varanus Timorensis (Zealot, Willow)
1.1 Varanus Acanthurus (Eddie, Roxie)
0.0.1 Uromastyx Aegypticus (Kronk)
0.0.2 Ceratophrys Ornata (Mojo, Jabba)
0.1 Geochelone Carbonaria (Turtle)
1.0 Rhacodactylus Ciliatus (Smeagol)

Emily
www.egomantra.com/npoh

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