I was reading some archived posts and was wondering what some of the other members in this forum prefer, and why? Other methods are also welcome.
Raymond
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I was reading some archived posts and was wondering what some of the other members in this forum prefer, and why? Other methods are also welcome.
Raymond
HELLO, I USE RADIANT PANELS (PRO-PRODUCT)AND HELIX CONTROLES AS MY THERMOSTAT THESE ARE REAL EXPENSIVE AT FIRST BUT WELL WORTH THE COST IN THE LONG RUN. MY ELECTRIC BILL IS A LITTLE LOWER BECAUSE THE PANELS ARE NOT ON ALL THE TIME AND AT NIGHT I USE THE TEMP DROP OPTION. IF I WERE YOU I WOULD GO WITH THE PANELS,SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY YOUR REPTILES WILL THANK YOU FOR IT.
` I've seen so many snakes with respiratory infections from cold floors, that I stick to belly heat, and have for years. With non-arboreal snakes, a warm floor can make up for low air temperature. Warm air temperature will not prevent a chill from a cold floor. A cold floor will draw the heat out of the snake's body. Another plus with a warm floor is putting a water container over a warm spot. With a properly sealed and ventilated cage, the evaporation from the warm water will provide lots of humidity. I heat the entire floor of my cages, with a gradient. The snakes don't have to thermoregulate, they are compfortable in any part of the cage. Tropical snakes don't need to thermoregulate, it is done out of necessity, not preference.
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