Reptile & Amphibian Forums

Hello,

Within the next couple weeks, we are planning on bringing a Ball Python into our family, and I have been researching like crazy this past week to learn all I can about them. We are going to be purchasing it from a pet store (I know this isn't the best route to go, but I don't feel comfortable ordering online, and don't know of any local breeders.) I know to check well for signs of parasites, mites, and ticks, make sure it doesn't look too skinny, to pick one that has clear, firm skin and a rounded shape... let me know if I'm leaving out anything important.

We DO know that the pet store we plan to buy from have ball pythons that are captive-bred, will be 9-10 weeks old when we go in, and they are willing to let us observe a feeding (the guy actually said on the phone, when I asked if we could see them eat, that he wouldn't like selling me one if I DIDN'T insist on seeing a feeding first, which indicates to me that they do take good care of their animals).

Now come the questions. Our plans were to bring our choice of python home with us that same day that we see them eat (the pet shop we're going to is in Fort Wayne, about an hour from where we live, so we weren't really planning on going up there more than once), but it occurred to me that the trauma of a car ride and moving into a new home so soon after eating could cause the little guy to regurgitate his food. First, is this the most likely case, and second, is it a big deal (no doubt it would be uncomfortable for him, but could he simply eat again once we got home or a couple days later, or could it cause him more serious problems?)

Also, as I mentioned, it will be 9-10 weeks old, and I was wondering how large an aquarium we'd need to use? I'd like to avoid a 10-gallon if I can, because of the difficulties involved in keeping the climate appropriate, but I know that they like small-ish enclosures (I've heard a few times that the aquarium should have a diagonal line the length of the snake).

A question on feeding: If the pet store uses live mice to feed their snakes, will it be okay to use thawed mice from the start, or will it be difficult to get him to eat them until he's more acclimated to his environment? If they use the live mice, should we do the same for the first few weeks, just so his WHOLE world isn't turned upside-down?

Is it common for BPs to fast for a period like many other reptiles, after moving to a new environment, or will he likely continue the pet store's feeding schedule at home?

The room we're planning on housing him in has a ceiling fan running all day during the summer, will that cause any problem, as long as his aquarium is always the proper temperature? (I know that maintaining temps in this room isn't a problem, we've got two leopard geckoes housed here.)

hmmm, I'm pretty confident about getting his new home properly set up, and on how to handle him, but I'm sure I'll think of more questions. I should have been writing them down while I was doing all that reading!

Sorry for the long post, I just want to make sure that our new BP's transition to our home is as happy and easy as possible for him. A HUGE thanks in advance to anyone willing to actually read this whole post and still not be too sleepy to respond with some answers

Im by no means an expert on BPs, my snake experience is limited to boas, but ive been researching all sorts of pythons lately, trying to decide on a new snake, especially boa morphs. But I can answer what I would think.

1.Who can say if he'll regurge or not? he might after the move, he might not. Maybe walk around the shop for a hour or so, go out and eat in fort wayne after he eats and give him a little time, then take him home. A regurge wont hurt him though. I know with boas you should wait about 15 days before feeding again after a regurge, not sure if its the same with BPs or not. Maybe someone can answer that for me.

2. 20 gal long would be my suggestion, I've heard most BPs can live their life in one.

3. Keep trying on the F/T food. Keep offering it to him, it wont hurt a snake to miss a meal or two. Be persistant if he doesn't take it, try different times of day, night. He'll come around to f/t food eventually

4. The ceiling fan is a good idea i believe, helps circulate air around the room, and the tank aswell since it'll be an aquarium with a screen top im guessing. Air circulation can help prevent respiratory infections. I always keep mine on in the room I keep my boa.

If anyone can right me on anything ive stated, please do. But from all ive researched and read, that is what i would expect as being answers to your questions.

If the snkae does regurgitate the meal, then you oughta wait about a week before you feed him. But since you are just getting him, you should wait a week to feed it anyway. so it has a little chance to get acclimated.
Even if the petsotre feed live you should try not to. it could injure the snake. DONT be alarmed if the snake wont eat after you get it in its new cage and everything. just come back here and all the people here will give you some good techniques.

Ive got my ball python in a 100 gallon cage. It won need anywhere near that big as a baby. but as an adult you will deffinitly needmore than a 20 gallon cage. A good rule for cage size is: the length of the cage should be 2/3 the length of the snake and 1/3 the width. It is true that they dont like open spaces. Jut make sure youve got a few hide boxes in the cage so it will feel secure.

Im glad you asked all these questions. Your ball pythons gonna have a good home. Good luck!

>>Also, as I mentioned, it will be 9-10 weeks old, and I was wondering how large an aquarium we'd need to use? I'd like to avoid a 10-gallon if I can, because of the difficulties involved in keeping the climate appropriate, but I know that they like small-ish enclosures (I've heard a few times that the aquarium should have a diagonal line the length of the snake).

Aquariums are not really good cages for Ball Pythons anyway. Because they are glass on all sides, they don't provide much security, they are easy to break, and hard enough to clean the people don't usually make the effort to do a good job. A ten gallon will be a good choice for a year or so, but you might consider getting a proper reptile cage for it after that (Vision cages are nice display cages).

>>A question on feeding: If the pet store uses live mice to feed their snakes, will it be okay to use thawed mice from the start, or will it be difficult to get him to eat them until he's more acclimated to his environment? If they use the live mice, should we do the same for the first few weeks, just so his WHOLE world isn't turned upside-down?

Why not just offer a frozen/thawed or prekilled mouse to the python in the store. That way you can choose one which is already taking f/t and not have the hastle from the start. I am sure the pet store would be willing to do this.

>>Is it common for BPs to fast for a period like many other reptiles, after moving to a new environment, or will he likely continue the pet store's feeding schedule at home?

My general experience is just the opposite. Many snakes actually eat readily when first moved, then slow down later.

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Chris Harrison

It sounds like you have done your homework and are dealing with a reputable pet store (a rarity these days). I recommend that you see the snake feed, however, I don't like the fact that the snake is going to be in a car for over an hour...regurgitation can be quite stressful on your snake and will only delay the acclimation process. I would recommend having the pet store feed a much smaller than normal prey item (at 9 weeks of age, they should be taking hoppers so try feeding a large pinky and see which snake has the best feeding response). This way, the snake isn't carrying a large meal in the car. Also, make sure the car is WARM (whether that means a heat pack inside the carrying container, cranking the heat, etc., doesn't matter as long as the snake is kept in the 80's without direct sun). Provide plenty of padding in the container to minimize vibrations of bumps, etc. and keep the snake in a dark, quiet place.

Young ball pythons will sometimes hold out for live prey, however, I have found that with my hatchlings, that I produce, they only need a few live meals before they are quickly switched to dead prey (and at 9 weeks of age, they are certainly old enough where they should be easily weaned on to frozen/thawed prey without any problems). You may have to feed one or two live feedings just to kick start the feeding response, however, I would first offer dead just to see what happens. It could take between 2-6 weeks for a ball python to fully acclimate to its surroundings (much longer for imports; sometimes never).

In terms of caging, I agree, it is difficult to provide the proper thermal gradient in a 10 gallon tank. If you can get a 20 gallon long, or even better, a cage designed specifically for snakes of the same dimensions (used neodesha, habitat systems, vision, in addition to some of the high quality rack systems made by Crescent Moon Creations), you will be fine. The key is to provide several SMALL and TIGHT hide areas. This can be as simple as one of those plastic plant saucers turned upside down with a hole cut on the side or the lid, a small food storage container with a hole cut on the lid, a paper towel tube, etc. I have found that a thermal gradient of 78 deg F. on the cool side to the mid 80's on the warm side with a basking area reaching 90-92 deg F. works great for bp's. My 30 year old bp has been maintained at these temps with no problems (in addition to my 25 year olds).

Hope this helps.

Rob Carmichael, Director/Curator
The Wildlife Discovery Center - City of Lake Forest
Parks & Recreation (Illinois)

Hi there,

I really think you would be better off purchasing from a breeder even if you have to order. 9-10 weeks old at this time of the year makes me think you will probably be viewing imports. Africa is just completing it's hatching season, but we in the US are JUST starting to hatch out babies. Is it possible you can find a few 9-10 week old captive bred babies here in the US right now? Sure...is it likely your pet shop did so? NOPE.

Twenty gallon aquarium should be fine.

If I bought a petshop ball python I'd be happy if it ate anything, live or p/k, at first, so many of them won't eat at all. Pick out your snake then tell them to give it a mouse, see if it eats before you buy. If it shows no feeding response...don't do it. There are plenty of reputable places to get nice normal babies for about the same as you'd pay for a petshop snake, and they eat and are healthy.

Good luck!

Christy

...and after it ate I gave it 2 days to digest the mouse it had eaten so that IF it went on a hunger strike because of the stress of the move that it would have a little something to tide it over. Those two days were killing me but I thought it was in best interest of the snake.

There's something you might want to consider... the snake will smell the leos all the time and it might agitate it. I breed leos and I keep mine on the other side of the house because I have so many I am sure the smell has to be pretty huge for the snake. At the very least keep them in seperate rooms for the quarantine period (at least 30 days, if not 60) and always remember to disinfect your hands before going between cages. I use reptisafe, an antiseptic hand lotion.